19 Mar 2025

The ancient Rom dance in the magical land of Vanuatu

Around 0800 hours, we began disembarking ashore on Ambrym, one of the most volcanically active islands in the Vanuatu Group. This island offers stunning views, with its black lava sand beaches and volcanic summit. This brooding, forest-covered island is renowned for its magic rituals and traditional custom Rom dance, which we would soon experience for ourselves.

Throughout Vanuatu, Christianity coincides with traditional kastom (ancient animistic spiritual beliefs). After landing, we headed inland via a short walk to Lonwolwol Lake, the site of a volcanic eruption around 1913, when a large crater lake formed here, destroying a nearby village. The lake is also a birding hotspot, and we enjoyed some fabulous observations. We were informed by the local guide that the volcano was ‘sent’ by the people, and powerful animistic spirits destroyed the village and the surrounding area by natural force because the local villagers had turned to Christianity and had forsaken their traditional kastom beliefs.

It was a very interesting insight into the strongly held spiritual beliefs held by the people of this island. Ambrym is the black magic epicentre of Vanuatu and is fittingly known as the home of Vanuatu’s sorcery with its tall mask carvings and dance rituals passed down through the ages. To top off a fantastic experience, we observed the traditional Rom dance, soaking in the island’s cultural history and this powerful ceremony.

Images © Heritage Expeditions