11 Jan 2020

Surfing Sea Lions on Enderby Island

Having reached the calm waters of Port Ross off Enderby Island in the early hours, we waited on anchor for the predicted weather break and our opportunity to land. After lunch and a successful scouting for a landing at Sandy Bay beach, expeditioners piled into Zodiacs and were soon skimming over the water towards the popular Hooker's/New Zealand Sea Lion breeding site - with one male even coming out to greet the first Zodiac.

Once ashore a pair of Yellow-eyed Penguins/Hoiho (our second penguin species of the voyage) put on an excellent show as they waddled down ‘Penguin Alley', heading out on a fishing expedition to feed hungry chicks. Once they reached the water we quickly made our way across the penguin thoroughfare to the grassy sward above Sandy Bay beach where corpulent beachmaster sea lions stood at attention and chased off would be challengers, females nursed their young and others impressed with their surfing skills in the break with Akademik Shokalskiy anchored proudly in the background.

During the landing keen eyes also spotted flightless Auckland Island Teal, Tomtits and Shags, Pipits, Kakariki, more Yellow-eyed Penguins and a group of skua noisily establishing a pecking order as the squabbled over some feather and bone remains.

Making the most of the favourable conditions we made our way to boulder beach at Erebus Cove, the site of the ill-fated Hardwicke Settlement and resulting cemetery, where inscriptions on some of the grave markers revealed just how tough life was for these settlers. Particularly moving was the grave of Isabella Younger, whose passing at three months old is recorded on a headstone fashioned from an old millstone by her father.

With our final voyagers back on board by 1900 hours, it was time to get ready for another exceptional three-course dinner from our talented chefs Tom and Matt.

Image from file © L.Tough, Heritage Expeditions