02 Dec 2021

Sensational Snares

What a day at the Snares! The early morning sea and sky were full of Titi/Sooty Shearwater, Diving Petrels, Snares Petrels, skuas, gulls and terns. Little groups of Snares Crested Penguins popped out of the swell and clambered up the rocky shore.

After Captain Alexandr Pruss expertly anchored Spirit of Enderby snugly at the south end of North East Island to avoid the easterly swell, we navigated the Zodiacs through the boisterous gap between North East and Broughton Islands, accompanied by porpoising penguins. Hundreds more were making their way to and from the sea from a big slide on Broughton, which we took a closer look at. We continued north to the calm waters of Boat Harbour, where the yellow tree daisies were coming into full flower.

Masses of penguins stood basking in the bright morning sun, others hopped down from the forest to head back to sea, hesitant to jump in while a big male sea-lion patrolled the shoreline. Those already at sea rafted and preened while groups of home-comers erupted up through the kelp. We were lucky to spot the Snares Fernbird and Tomtit before heading up to watch the comings and goings at the huge penguin ramp (the Penguin Slide) near the northern tip of the island.

With the swell still easterly, we returned to our trusty expedition vessel in the lee of the island, under the vertiginous granite cliffs of the western side. After some lively water between rock-stacks on the southern tip, we headed back to ship, accompanied by a huge flock of Cape Petrels. Our circumnavigation complete, we climbed aboard and headed for the Auckland Islands.

In the afternoon a pod of Dusky Dolphins raced over and rode the bow surge before just as quickly disappearing. Not long after, Captain Pruss stopped the ship as we raced for the bow to watch a Humpback Whale, which lay on its back nearby, slapping the water with its giant pectoral fins. For a finale it swam right in front of the ship before arching its back and diving.

Image from file © C.Todd, Heritage Expeditions