16 Feb 2023

Delving into Discovery Hut at McMurdo Station

This morning we woke aboard Heritage Adventurer to find our blue skies had turned to grey as we readied ourselves to go ashore at Hut Point, not far from McMurdo Station. It was suggested that whatever we have in our suitcases, we should put it on. 

The outside temperature was -13°C, with a windchill of -21°C.  We were off to discover further history within Captain Scott's second hut - Discovery Hut - erected in 1911 and now perfectly preserved tucked amid barren hills, and today, blasted by an Antarctic wind.

Onshore, a lone Weddell Seal lifted his head to reveal icy whiskers. Amused by our presence no doubt, all waddling ashore in five layers of clothing, but still eager to explore. 

Returning to the warmth and comfortable surrounds of the Heritage Adventurer, no-one could predict the afternoon of wildlife spotting we had encountered.  Just 3.3 nautical miles west of McMurdo station, along the edge of the sea ice, a pod of Type C Orcas native to the Ross Sea could be seen spyhopping up through small breathing holes in the ice.  As our ship inched forwards ever so slightly in the sea ice, Orca after Orca bobbed up and down in their chain of holes, fishing, diving, and playing.

This continued on throughout the afternoon until we left to try and take a closer look at our first Emperor Penguins. We were in for a treat, gathering on the ice to choose a mate for the coming breeding season, more than 70 Emperor penguins came over to the ship to join us for the afternoon. 

We spent hours sitting observing their behaviour from Heritage Adventurer, listening to their calls, watching them huddle, slip, slide and swim all around us.  Even throughout dinner, outside our window, penguins played and swam as an Orca popped up briefly.  We were dining inside our own wildlife documentary - the type that would have made Sir David Attenborough proud.

Image (c): R.Young