22 Oct 2022

Birding and Japanese Binsari Cave on Biak & Rusbasbedas Island

The birders were first off Heritage Adventurer this morning, just before dawn, in search of the many Biak Island endemics. The island's long isolation has created a high degree of endemism among its birdlife motivating our early risers with the prospect of ticking off some new species.

Non-birding guests enjoyed a sleep in then, after travelling through at short-lived downpour, explored Biak's famous Japanese Binsari Cave. Despite its grim history, the 3-kilometre long natural cave and mass grave where 3,000 Japanese soldiers sheltering from American troops were killed after being bombed by the USAAF on 7 July 1944 was endlessly fascinating. We entered the cave through a huge hole in the rock, surrounded by tangled jungle. Inside the cavern is huge and gloomy, cloaked in overgrown jungle and tangled with roots and vines where bats flit between roosts.

After the cave we visited the fish and vegetable market where the colourful, prized merchandise was beautifully presented in unique formations, not unlike the Bowerbird's artistic bowers, clearly designed to attract the attention of potential buyers.

The birders had a successful morning, reporting 28 species including 9 endemics including as the Biak whistler, Biak Flycatcher, Biak Leaf Warbler, Biak White Eye, Biak Long-tailed Starling, Biak Red-capped Flowerpecker and the Yellow-bibbed Fruit Dove.

Returning to Heritage Adventurer we were treated to a welcome traditionally reserved for royalty and visiting dignitaries from the local youth. Back on board, Heritage Adventurer re-positioned to the tropical perfection of tiny Rusbasbedas Island for an unforgettable snorkelling experience. Complete with nodding palms, this white sand slice of paradise is fringed by an incredible reef wall which disappears into the inky blue depths more than 200 metres mere metres off the beach. The reef was teeming with colourful corals and marine life and, once again, the expedition team had to work hard to convince guests to leave this impossibly perfect island paradise.

Images © T.Mulholland, I.Wilson, F.Wardle