21 Oct 2022

Swimming with Whale Sharks, Snorekelling Kali Lemon, and Kwatisore Village

Craigo appears from the blue of Cenderawasih Bay like a school bus. The 9-metre male Whale Shark, wide mouth agape with an entourage of smaller fish darting just ahead, moves with the streamlined ease of evolutionary perfection. I feel the pressure surge of his passing, close enough to touch the constellation of white spots that run the length of his body which our guide Abraham Sianipar uses to identify him.

It's an incredible, bucket list moment come true on Heritage Adventurer's maiden voyage Indonesian Explorer as I'm dwarfed by this gentle giant who eyes me with irrelevance as he circles a fishing Bagan, the fisherman's nets he has learned, provide an easy meal in the heart of Cenderawasih Bay Marine Park.

But Craigo isn't alone, shortly after he is joined by another, younger male and the pair swim through the small groups left breathless taking turns sharing the water with them. It's ear to ear smiles in the Zodiacs as we make our way back to Heritage Adventurer for a quick morning snack before a snorkelling excursion of the reefs of renowned dive site Kalilemon. On land its tropical island perfection with a long jetty, treehouse and swing over powdery white sand, while a short swim off the beach across a seagrass bed reveals an underwater wonderland. The reef flats are covered in Giant Clams with a variety of brilliant colors and sizes, Mushroom Corals are scattered across the reef and the diversity of Stony Corals make for an exceptionally colorful backdrop with their galleries of Anemones and abundant marine life.

After lunch we enjoy a spirited welcome and huge smiles from the people of Kwatisore Village where, after an emotional performance from the village children highlights their connection to the Bird of Paradise, there's time to shop their arts and crafts, explore their village and join the festivities dancing with the locals.

Images: F.Wardle, A.Sianipar, I.Wilson