24 Jan 2024

An action-packed adventure experiencing Antarctica’s 24-hour sunshine

The last few days have been an action-packed adventure as we made use of Antarctica's 24-hour sunshine, visiting Ernest Shackleton's 1907 Nimrod Hut at Cape Royds, and Captain Scott's 1910 - 1913 Terra Nova Expedition hut at Cape Evans.
After last night's stunning late evening Zodiac cruise at the Drygalski Ice Tongue, we headed south for Ross Island. Although heavy pack ice and rough sea slowed progress, we arrived off Ross Island to calm seas and blue skies. With the impressive active volcano of Mount Erebus dominating the skyline, it looked like conditions might be favourable to land at one of the historic huts on Ross Island. It soon became clear that we would try for the hut from Ernest Shackleton's 1907 British Antarctic expedition, or the Nimrod Hut, at Cape Royds, the westernmost point on Ross Island. We made our way round to Backdoor Bay to find a short stretch of fast ice blocking the landing beaches. However, we were not going to be put off, with our expedition team working out a new safe route across the sea ice to the landing beach.
It was then a short walk across the dramatic volcanic landscape to access the Nimrod Hut which had recently been carefully restored by the New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust. Like true Antarctic explorers, we took advantage of the settled weather conditions and pressed on knowing a forecasted southerly wind could thwart our plans. We sailed the short 10 kilometres south from Cape Royds, past the Barne Glacier, and dropped anchor at Cape Evans, the site of Captain Scott's 1910 - 1913 Terra Nova Expedition hut. The hut looked stunning just off our bow, basked in golden sunlight. For many of us this was the stuff of legends, the tale we grew up with; ‘Scott of the Antarctic' and the famous race to the South Pole.

The Cape was named after ‘Teddy' Evans, Scott's second in command, and a short Zodiac ride had us ashore ready to explore this iconic heritage site. With only eight people allowed in the hut at a time, we took the opportunity to explore the surroundings. Amongst the snow several artefacts from the early explorers were visible: the anchor from the SY Aurora, the flagpole, the dog line chain and supply boxes. Once inside the hut, everything demanded our attention; from the annexe, the stables, the wardroom table and Herbert Ponting's darkroom. With over 11,000 artefacts carefully conserved by the Antarctic Heritage Trust, everything was fascinating. The hut has had many famous visitors over the years and one can only agree with Sir David Attenborough who said "It is a time warp without parallel. You walk into Scott's Hut, and you are transported to the year 1912 in a way that is quite impossible anywhere else in the world".

Images © F. Wardle, Heritage Expeditions