19 Jan 2024

Adélie Penguins galore at Cape Adare!

We have had a remarkably smooth and easy four days at sea after departing Macquarie Island. The sun has now set for the last time until we depart the Ross Sea heading north. Thus, it was light when we encountered ice in the wee hours. As we slept, Heritage Adventurer made a slight backtrack and land was visible on the horizon at breakfast.

We watched through the day as we crept tantalizingly closer to our Antarctic destination. Heritage Adventurer showed her ice-strengthened mettle as we pushed and sliced through the pack ice. Many Adélie Penguins and a few Crabeater Seals were observed on the ice floes. In the early evening, we reached open water and cruised closely past the many grounded icebergs to Cape Adare. We held our breath, and yes, a landing was possible. After a quick briefing, it was into the Zodiacs for the shuttle to the beach - the 7th continent for many of us.

Cape Adare is home to more than 300,000 pairs of breeding Adélie Penguins. We were immediately enthralled with their antics and the huddles of grey downy chicks. The entertainment was endless with lots of pebble stealing, sky-pointing, calling and observing them curiously watching us.

Cape Adare is also the home to the first structure built in Antarctica. The hut was built in 1899 for the British Southern Cross Expedition led by Carsten Borchgrevink and was having its 125th anniversary. Seeing the tiny space, with tiny bunks, gave some insight into what it must have been like to spend that first winter here - but only some.

We explored the beach before returning to the comforts of Heritage Adventurer for a late dinner, then loaded back into the Zodiacs for another cruise. The conditions remained perfect and we took a loop around the bay to see icebergs, the drifting sea ice floes, the beach and the black cliffs. The highlights were in the water with huge numbers of porpoising Adélies surrounding the Zodiacs. Also, in the water were the penguin's greatest fear - Leopard Seals. It seemed that our after-dinner cruise was at their dinner time and we saw several kills.

We returned to our trusty expedition vessel against the midnight sun, knowing that we had had a magical first day in Antarctica. What will the rest of our days hold? Who knows, but we can't wait.

Images © F. Wardle, Heritage Expeditions