22 Jan 2025

A day full of adventure at Cape Royds

It was an early start today to capitalise on the opportunity to visit the historic Shackleton’s Hut at Cape Royds. The night before, we were briefed about the two possible options depending on ice conditions around the cape. Fortunately, a light northerly breeze had sprung up in the early morning making it possible to land on the sea ice of the more accessible Backdoor Bay.
 
The sea ice landing was an experience to remember, as we walked approximately 400 metres over the frozen bay, observing the Adélie Penguin and Weddell Seals resting.

After a short walk over the volcanic landscape of the cape, the hut revealed itself. Inside was much more homely than Scott’s Hut at Cape Evans, especially in such attractive surroundings, tucked in amongst the undulating volcanic landscape and near an Adélie Penguin colony. After soaking in the hut's history, we walked to a vantage point overlooking the area with beautiful views of Mt Erebus. The walk also provided an excellent viewpoint of the Adélie penguin colony, where we looked down upon the birds, viewing their many interactions from a different angle. The kayakers enjoyed a journey along the coast of Ross Island, making it halfway to Cape Evans before heading back for their time to explore the landing.

To top it off, the hotel team hosted a Polar BBQ on the outside bistro deck to welcome us back aboard. Many opted to sit out in the blazing sunshine to enjoy it.

After lunch Heritage Adventurer repositioned to the ice edge to the southwest. No sooner had we arrived was the call made that an Orca/Killer Whale had been observed, and we were treated to some fabulous passes from our trusty expedition vessel. Due to the great conditions, we launched the Zodiacs for a cruise along the ice edge. The kayakers again ventured out and paddled in silence along the serene ice edge. They were rewarded with fantastic views of Emperor Penguins, paddling alongside the fast ice with 20 Adélie Penguins tobogganing.

There were many Adélie Penguins and some Emperor Penguins that we viewed from a different perspective, resulting in some great photographs. However, the real star of the show was the Orca/Killer Whales, with several small pods working the ice edge. As we saw pod after pod approaching the ice, the Zodiacs would switch off their engines and drift, so as not to disturb these magnificent animals. We were rewarded with them swimming right underneath us! After the Orca/Killer Whales had passed, we landed on the fast ice edge and enjoyed standing upon the frozen ocean again, whilst being served a nice warm mulled wine!

In the evening, it was announced we would try to reach Hut Point in the calm conditions. However, by 2300, it was apparent there was still too much ice about. Still, it provided stunning views of McMurdo station and more Orca/Killer Whales working the ice edge. We now hope the forecast for stronger winds tomorrow may blow some of this ice out and allow us to attempt again.

Images © C. Finch & S. Tranmer, Heritage Expeditions