20 Jan 2025

Walking through time at Cape Evans

This morning, we awoke to pristine conditions as we sailed further south within the Ross Sea towards the looming, volcanic Ross Island. The impressive summits of Mount Terror and Mount Erebus were visible in the clear blue sky and sunshine.

We continued cruising into McMurdo Sound, enjoying views of Cape Bird and the penguin colonies whilst passing through bands of drift ice. As we passed through open drift ice, the call was made that an Orca was spotted. As we observed from the top deck it became apparent that there was a large pod passing by Heritage Adventurer before they headed off into the ice.
We continued south, passing Cape Royds with a spectacular view from the comfort of Heritage Adventurer, where we were able to spot Shackleton’s Nimrod Expedition Hut. As a bonus, on the fast ice of Backdoor Bay another Emperor Penguin was sighted in the distance.  

Arriving at Cape Evans in the evening, we headed on a Zodiac cruise, landing to enjoy 20 minutes within Scott’s Terra Nova Hut. We explored for over an hour on land, enjoying a guided walk around the many artefacts visible as the snow melted. As we waited our turn to enter the hut, we embarked on a Zodiac cruise or Kayak around the cape, along the fast ice, in awe of blue skies and Mount Erebus. We had encounters and views of the fast ice edge of Erebus Bay, icicles, seals, more Adélie Penguins and a glimpse of Minke Whales in the open leads of the fast ice.

It was a tremendously moving experience to be in the hut and to contemplate life as part of Scott’s ill-fated expedition, which we learned so much about from our historian, John. We also felt immense appreciation to the New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust and our onboard heritage expert, Al Fastier, for all their work to ensure the value and context of this historic place remain in pristine condition. The day ended with all on board by 2330, the midnight sun shining warmly, as we returned to rest after an incredible adventure.

Images © C. Finch & S. Tranmer, Heritage Expeditions