1570: Ross Sea - In the Wake of Scott and Shackleton 12 Jan 2015

Voyage #1570
 Spirit of Enderby / Professor Kromov

12 January 2015 – 9 February 2015

Captain: Dimitry Zinchenko
Chief Mate: Aleksi Zinchenko
Expedition Team:
Nathan Russ (Expedition Leader; coordinator lectures and landings)
Agnès Breniere (Cruise Director; Zodiac driver)
Lieutenant Ross Hickey RNZN (NZ Government Representative/Department of Conservation Representative)
Dr Lesley Cupit (Expedition Medical Adviser)
Don McIntyre – (Lecturer and guide)
Samuel Blanc (Lecturer – ornithology; bird list; expedition DVD; Zodiac driver and guide)
Dr David Harrowfield (Lecturer – History; on-shore historic site interpretation and guide; compiler of the Expedition Log)
Connor Arcus – Chef
Frank Widmer – 2^nd Chef
 
 
Day 1-2 Sunday 11 January – Monday 12 
Invercargill, Bluff, at sea
11 January Anniversary of Sir Edmund Hillary’s death
12 January Mike and Mary’s 30^th Wedding Anniversary celebrated
Noon position: Latitude 46^o35.5’South; Longitude 168^o20.13’E
Positions and other data are taken from the Deck Log Book
Air temperature: 14^oC
Yesterday we arrived in New Zealand’s southernmost city Invercargill and settled in the Kelvin Hotel. It was a century since the Ross Sea party on the Aurora of Shackleton’s Trans-Antarctic Expedition 1914-1917, arrived at Cape Evans on Ross Island Antarctica.
Late in the day light rain began and it was far from warm. In the evening we met Expedition Leader Nathan who is also Operations Manager for Heritage Expeditions, Cruise Director Agnès and Lecturer David, who made us very welcome. Amongst us was Mary, with not only a sailor’s hat but an inflatable penguin named Charles Enderby. Over a sumptuous dinner Nathan gave an outline on plans for the next few days, along with present and expected future weather and possible ice conditions.
The following morning we were treated to a fine sunny morning and were greeted by David, Samuel and the ship manager Max. Our luggage was loaded into a truck for conveyance to the Spirit of Enderby. The ship is also named Professor Khromov (1904-1977) after a prominent Russian meteorologist during the former Soviet Era.
David then escorted many of us on a short walk to the Southland Museum and Art Gallery. Here we met Lindsay Hazley, Curator of Tuataras and Photography, and began our visit viewing the fabulous Roaring Forties theatre presentation. Lindsay who has been with the museum 42 years then guided us to the Tuatarium.
A reptile from an otherwise extinct linage, the oldest known bones of a true Tuatara date back just 34,000 to 100,000 years. Today the live on 32 islands, mostly around New Zealand’s North Island and Cook Strait and in five mainland wildlife sanctuaries. We were most interested in the oldest Tuatara named Henry who is estimated to be over 110 years old. Some of us touched his leathery-looking skin and were surprised to see how soft it was.
From here we visited the Subantarctic Islands gallery which had many fascinating relics linked to ship wrecks and the castaway era. Examples included a wooden punt made by survivors from the Derry Castle wrecked in March 1887 and who lived in huts made from tussock grass, also a pair of seal skin slippers made by survivors from the wreck of the barque Dundonald in March 1907. A small display which included an oak rum tub (still with aroma) from Captain R.F. Scott’s ship Terra Nova; a Nansen sledge, an All-sky camera once used at New Zealand’s Scott Base Antarctica, and an interesting selection of geological specimens. Nearby were items linked with the sailing ship and whaling eras. An interesting exhibit focused on conservation of two parts of a waka (Maori canoe) hull in tanks with the liquid maintained at 18.5^oC. There was certainly much to see. At 12.15 we boarded a coach for the Kelvin Hotel where we enjoyed a further excellent meal, before David ushered us onto a coach which delivered us to the Spirit of Enderby.
About 20 minutes later, we drew up alongside the ship where we were greeted by Nathan, Agnes and other staff, then shown our cabins in which our possessions had been placed. We had Devonshire scones and a glass of black currant juice, tea or coffee for afternoon tea and after meeting with a Customs officer, surrendered our passports and familiarised ourselves with the ship. We departed soon after 3.30 p.m and by 4 p.m. the Takatimu 2 which collected the Pilot had left and we entered Foveaux Strait on our way to Stewart Island, with the ship now gently rolling.
At 5.15 p.m. we had our first briefings in the Lecture Room. Nathan began by introducing the staff each of whom gave a brief resume of their background. Agnès then acquainted us with various important details including use of the vacuum toilet system, the Sea Shop along with other aspects. Nathan resumed the briefing with reference to all-important signals for Emergencies and Abandon Ship. Matters such as appropriate dress and types of landings expected – dry/wet/very wet, the tag system, appropriate dress for wearing during the abandon ship, immersion suits and two types of life jackets, one for use with lifeboats, the second for Zodiac travel.
At 6.30 p.m. all heard seven short and one long blast, three times from the ship’s horn and participated in the lifeboat drill. The lifeboat used depended on whether our cabin was on the port or starboard side of the ship. We were off Stewart Island until 8.30 p.m. and after dinner at 7.30 p.m. the Captain headed south past Lord River and Port Pegasus with 60-65 nautical miles to travel to the Snares. Agnès then opened the bar before dinner where staff attended to our needs. The sea was calm and a few sea birds including Salvin’s Albatross and Stewart Island Shags were present.
At 7.30 we were treated to an excellent meal prepared by Connor and Frank, with two main choices of beef rump or salmon. The Russian crew schedule their meals around the ‘watches’ so as not to coincide with ours. Their chef on our voyage is Angelique.
With a course change, the sea was a bit bumpy. We rolled a little and most opted to have an early night.
Don McIntyre’s definition of adventure is – “you don’t know the outcome”.

Photo: S.Blanc

Day 3 Tuesday 13 January 
Snares Islands
Noon position: Latitude 48^o10.15’South; Longitude 166^o37.6201’East
Air temperature: 16^oC Water 20.5^oC
Birthday of Ros E. celebrated.
Most of us enjoyed calm conditions last night and rested well. The maximum wave last night was four metres. At 6.30 a.m. we were on a course for the South promontory of North East Island with Broughton Islands and the south-east. The Snares Islands have a highest point of 152m, cover 328 hectares, a mean annual temperature of 11^oC and an average rainfall of 1200mm per year. The position of the islands is 48^o01’S and 166^o35’E. Sea birds were beginning to appear and this morning we saw Buller and Salvin’s Albatross, Common Diving Petrel, Cape Petrel (Pintado) and Sooty Shearwaters or Titi as known to Maori, who harvest chicks for food, once a year.
Before breakfast we had a good view of the Snares and being on the north coast and away from the westerly, we had ideal conditions for a Zodiac cruise. Nathan summoned us all to the lecture room for a briefing at 7.45 a.m. where he gave an excellent introduction to the Snares. This covered discovery by Vancouver on 23 November 1791, the subsequent sealing era which decimated the population, details of the geology (granite), botany and ornithology. The Zodiac operation using five boats each equipped with four-stroke 60 h.p. engines began at 8.20, with us setting out for two hours on the water. With exception of the scientific parties from University of Otago and National Institute for Water and Atmospheric Research (NIWA) no landings are permitted.
Cruising off-shore, we enjoyed excellent views of the rocks, some with nice colouration, the zoning of vegetation adapted to salt-laden air with Olearia lyalli the tall ‘tree daisy’ prominent in places. Other plants included the smaller ‘tree daisy’, Cook’s ‘scurvy grass’, a shore hebe and large tussocks. The many birds that were seen included spectacular rafts of Cape Petrels and Snares Crested Penguins, along with Common Diving Petrels, Brown Skua, Buller and Salvin’s Albatrosses, Giant Petrels, the small black Snares Tomtit, Back and Red-billed Gulls. Two Australian Tree Martins were sighted, however the Sooty Shearwaters, the most prominent bird species on the Snares, with a calculated 2.7 million pairs (1971), had mostly flown before dawn.
We enjoyed excellent viewing of numerous New Zealand Fur Seals with an estimated 40-50 seen. Showers came and went and we entered several large caverns exposed to the sea, where the swell created a deep booming sound. In Ho Ho Bay we glimpsed the huts of the research station established in the 1960s. One of the best highlights however was an excellent view of the famous ‘penguin slide’ with large numbers of Snares Crested Penguins commuting over granite, the surface worn smooth by millions of webbed feet perhaps over hundreds of years. We were amused to see birds about to enter the water, then change their plan, slide in the process and with the next incoming swell, take advantage of this to enter the water. Some penguins which become stranded in the kelp, managed to extricate themselves remarkably quickly. As Nathan said, why go to the trouble of marching up a steep rock slope when there are much easier places for access. Penguins were calling and from nests on adjacent headlands, the guttural, braying calls of Buller’s Albatross could be heard.
We returned to the ship by 10.30 a.m. after having enjoyed a very special outing in rarely experienced calm conditions. It was an excellent way to begin the away from ship aspect of our expedition. Our chefs Conner and Frank produced a very fine lunch of bacon and egg pie with fresh salad and later most of us took time to enjoy our photographs or to rest; the sea now being a little lumpy with the occasional large roll. Not long before 12.30, five dolphins were seen and were thought to be Dusky dolphins.
At 4 p.m. Nathan held an important briefing covering quarantine measures as part of our preparation for tomorrow. Then taking turns to use a vacuum cleaner, we carefully examined our field rig, back packs etc to remove any possible bio-hazard such as seeds. The chefs produced a fine dinner with a choice of rolled roast pork served on apple mash or chicken breast with such tasty delights as thyme roasted beetroot and garlic asparagus with lemon beurre blanc. This was followed by a desert of apple and pear strudel with ice cream and custard which rounded off the meal beautifully. Most of us retired early with the promise of a calm sea offering a good rest.

Photo: S.Blanc


Photo: S.Blanc

Day 4 Wednesday 14 January 
Enderby Island (Auckland Islands)
Birthday of Howie celebrated
Noon position: Latitude 50^o30.419’South; Longitude 166^o16.653’East
Air temperature: 14^oC Water 11^oC
We were treated to a calm sea last night and this morning the anchor was lowered at Port Ross around 4 a.m. Port Ross is named after the famous English Arctic and Antarctic explorer James (later Sir) Clark Ross who visited here in November 1840. Originally it was named Rendezvous Harbour by the French expedition led by Dumont D’Urville. Before breakfast many were out on deck taking photos of the sunrise. As the sun ascended higher, the columnar basalt cliffs along the south side of Enderby Island, presented a spectacular sight.
With a busy day ahead we had an early start. A Southern Lakes French Squirrel helicopter arrived to transfer eight drums of fuel ashore as part of an emergency supply and for use during the aerial census of Hooker Sea Lions and Albatrosses for the Department of Conservation (DoC). The helicopter can make the flight from Invercargill airport to Enderby Island in less than 2½ hours.
Those of us who were unable to attend to quarantine measures last evening carried this out after breakfast and at 7.30 a.m. we assembled in the lecture room for Nathan’s excellent introductory lecture to the Auckland Islands and an outline of the two walks planned for the day. With help from the chefs we made up a packed lunch to take ashore and prepared for an interesting day on Enderby Island.
The ship to shore operation began by 9.30 a.m. and we were landed on a shore platform of volcanic conglomerate rock with huge waving fronds of D’Urvillea kelp either side of the narrow channel we had entered. Once ashore many of us changed from our gumboots to hiking or tramping boots and Nathan gave us a further brief talk on the two walks for today. Simon, a researcher on the Hooker’s Sea Lion, also spoke and mentioned that the decline of the species which began in the late 1990’s is continuing. This season about 300 pups have been born at Sandy Bay with a further 1400-1500 on Dundas Island, the main breeding location.
We all set out walking north from Sandy Bay at around 10 a.m. and before long we came across a Yellow-eyed Penguin on the boardwalk. Beside the trail were the remains of two Southern Royal Albatross and two birds were seen on their nests some distance away. The botany was very interesting with some of the Southern Rata having rich crimson flowers. The white flowering Cassinia, (also prolific in New Zealand) and at least three species of Gentian with one, Gentiana cerina, a beautiful deep mauve, had become established on large cushion plants. Of the megaherbs Bulbinella rossii had finished flowering although the occasional one had a little of the rich orange flower head remaining. On the north side of the island the pink and white flower of Anisotome latifolia was prolific. There was a place for everything. Ferns grew where branches joined trunks and seedlings of Rata and Dracophyllum and numerous other plants had found a home on cushion plants.
On reaching the north coast where only a light breeze was blowing, we went a short distance along the cliff top and were treated views of nesting, Light-mantled Sooty Albatross with chicks and a pair demonstrating precision flying. Other birds present included Auckland Islands Shag and Red-billed Gulls. Those participating in the long walk around the western end of the island, now left us as they prepared to enjoy an extension to the wonderful natural history experience that Enderby Island provides. The short walkers then headed back to be treated to a pair of Yellow-eyed Penguins on the boardwalk and enjoyed time observing the Hooker Sea Lion community on the beach below the grassy sward. Most of the pups were together while large Brown Skuas watched from a distance. Near the DoC huts, some of us observed Karen, a vet from Massey University, carrying out a post- mortem on a two week old pup which may have died from starvation.
We had been extremely fortunate to have a fine, mostly sunny, day and those on the long walk were also rewarded with many interesting sights. The bird life was prolific and included Red-Crowned Parakeets, Tomtits, Auckland Islands Snipe, Auckland Islands Teal, Brown Skua, Arctic Tern, Giant Petrels with well-developed chicks, Yellow-eyed Penguins and the Double Banded Plover. Also seen were fur seals and fine displays of Anisotome and Gentians. The Derry Castle Reef with those who drowned buried in the vicinity was a poignant reminder of the wreck of the ship in March 1887. The Sandy Bay castaway depot was found by the survivors to contain only a jar of salt. Associated with this tragedy is the wooden punt, which we viewed in the Invercargill Museum and Art Gallery.
By 7 p.m. the bar/library was a busy place. We all considered the day had been first class and with good weather again expected for tomorrow, everyone was in high spirits. A species of bird photographed by a passenger and bird enthusiast during the long walk was deemed to be an Australian vagrant named the ‘Pectoral Sandpiper’. Everyone got something out of the trip – Robbie who had returned with a mass of bidibid seeds providing camouflage to a glove, decided to change her name to ‘the walking seed pod’. Ginny decided the wildlife and fresh air was something she will long remember and Lyspeth had found a perfect small Paua shell and was intrigued with the mother of pearl colourings. With a busy day expected tomorrow most decided on an early night while others remained on deck to enjoy the Subantarctic sunset.

Photo: S.Blanc


Photo: A.Breniere

Day 5 Thursday 15 January 
Musgrave Inlet and North Arm of Carnley Harbour (Auckland Islands) – Zodiac cruising
Noon position: Latitude 50^o47’South; Longitude 166^o03’East
Air Temperature: 11^oC Water 10^oC
We enjoyed the a calm sea last night and at 6.30 Nathan came on the intercom advising a Zodiac cruise would take place this morning. Steep rock cliffs were topped by thick rata forest and the anchor was dropped at Musgrave Inlet in 34m although we drifted to 37m. By 7 a.m. we were enjoying a beautiful soft light on the hills of Auckland Island, as the sun rose. Most of us took advantage of the opportunity for an early morning ride and five Zodiacs were used. Our travel began on the north side of the inlet below magnificent basalt cliffs with huge boulders along the water’s edge which was fringed with thick kelp. Penguins could be heard calling In scrub and we had excellent viewing and probably the best we will have on the expedition, of Rock Hopper Penguins. These were perched in small groups on large boulders, many with a grey coating of algae. The morning was still and only marred by low strato-cumulus clouds.
At 7.15 we crossed to the other side of the inlet and entered an amazing volcanic amphitheatre in which the top had collapsed, leaving a surrounding cliff edge fringed with Rata, other trees and shrubs. Two strange, long moss covered bundles of roots hung from the cliff edge and we could see why the place attracted those fortunate to visit here. On one expedition a passenger was so inspired by the setting, that apparently some opera singing took place. Much of the rock appeared to be volcanic ash and tuff with beautiful colours of ochre, brown etc. although there appeared to be some conglomerate with rounded water-worn cobbles at a lower level.
As we exited the cavern a small flock of terns passed overhead and Nathan then led us to another cavern which had amazing whitish streaks on the roof as a result of leaching of minerals from the volcanic rock. As we continued around the shoreline a Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and a Campbell’s Albatross were seen and we noticed that the Rata tree buds were beginning to open out. The canopy of the Rata resembled a giant cauliflower with the interlocking tops each having a rounded surface. A lava plug was visible on a hill top and an old glacial cirque was nearby.
Soon after 10 a.m. we were off the entrance to Carnley Harbour with 57m of water. Layers of volcanic rock with scrub and grasses were of interest as were a number of Sooty Shearwaters. Andre the Bosun was at the bow and released the brake on the anchor in case this had to be lowered. We now made our way up the harbour and while doing this Don McIntyre gave an excellent commentary from the Bridge. The landscape was of great interest and on the end of Grafton Point a ‘finger post’ was pointed out. These assisted castaways to locate small huts containing emergency supplies such as woollen suits, food and matches.
The sun was out and conditions excellent for viewing albeit from a distance many points of historical interest. We also saw two survey vessels that were undertaking a survey for Land Information New Zealand (LINZ) of the coastline. These were the Tranquil Image a 24m long boat and the other the Star Key at 19m.
We rounded Musgrave Point and stopped opposite where the small topsail schooner Grafton was wrecked during a storm on 3 January 1864. Captained by an American named Thomas Musgrave, the schooner had been to Campbell Island for the purpose of following up reports of silver-bearing rock. They were unsuccessful and when passing Adams Island, bad weather had blown the ship up Carnley Harbour where it was wrecked in North-Arm. After managing to make it ashore, a small rock hut was erected in the Rata forest above the beach. Named Epigwaitt after the Indian word for ‘dwelling by the sea’ (also referred to by Musgrave as ‘near the great waters’), the five men lived here for 12 months until Musgrave with two others set out seeking rescue, leaving two men behind. They reached Stewart Island from where Musgrave mounted a rescue operation on the Flying Scud and on 15 September 1865 he rescued the other two men.
Today many of us landed to examine the remaining timber of the Grafton and also to view the rock hut, now surrounded by nettles. Of the original four walls only one remains standing and a few bottle fragments and timber from the ship are all that remain. The Rata and Dracophyllum forest was quite open and tracks had been made by wild pigs. Some of us also had an interesting walk over natural iron-stained boulders and cobbles along the beach, amongst which were shells of blue mussel, limpet and other molluscs. Along the back beach hebes and grasses then merged with Rata and Dracophyllum. The Rata forest here was reasonably open.
Today lunch was at 1 p.m. and the Captain then began our journey of around 360 nautical miles to Macquarie Island. Soon after 2 p.m. the weather changed with heavy overcast, rain and a busy sea with whitecaps created by a strong North-east wind. In the meantime Nathan advised us to secure our cabins as the sea may become rougher.
At 4 p.m. the lecture programme got underway with Samuel giving his first lecture enentitled ‘Seabirds of the South Ocean’. This was a very useful lecture as there are several bird enthusiasts on board and most people are interested to know the different species. Samuel focused on aspects concerning the biology and ecology, time spent at sea (about 70% of their life), distances travelled, the age of many along with distinguishing features.
The bar manned by staff opened as usual at 6 p.m. with convivial discussion on the day activities and at 7 p.m. we returned to the Bar/Library for a recap on our Auckland Islands visit. Dinner was at 7.30 p.m. with the choice for the main being porterhouse steak or Chatham Islands blue cod. We then retired for an early night.

Photo: A.Breniere

Day 6 Friday 16 January - at sea 
Enroute to Australia’s Macquarie Island
Noon position: Latitude 53^o38.323 ’South; Longitude 160^o47.016’East
Air temperature: 11^oC Water 10^oC
Barometer – 926hp (was 1005hp early today).
With a following sea, we enjoyed a nice comfortable night with the ship occasionally rolling. At 7 a.m. we were on a course direct to Macquarie Island and over 3859m of water at the Emerald Plateau. The origin of the name is obscure. A ship named Emerald reported in 1821, what may have been a green iceberg, with this leading to the naming of an ‘island’. The present name followed although who this is attributed to is uncertain.
The ship was making a comfortable 12 knots with 193 nautical miles to go. The rain had ceased however a light fog was present and the sea still had a rumpled surface with the occasional large white horse. The few sea birds about were a Wandering Albatross; White-chinned Petrel and a prion. The barometric pressure is falling and Nathan mentioned a front is expected to pass over Macquarie Island early afternoon.
We assembled in the lecture room at 9.30 a.m. when Bob screened the Television New Zealand Intrepid New Zealand documentary (courtesy of DoC) on the re-enactment of the survival of the five men from the wreck of the Grafton. After a journey of 280 nautical miles with five nights at sea, Musgrave and his two men reached Stewart Island in their modified ship’s boat named The Rescue. The boat was abandoned and has not been seen since. With New Zealand disinterested in a rescue, Musgrave then organised a rescue boat and his other two men were collected 37 days after being left. Musgrave made a return trip to the Auckland Islands and later New Zealand decided to place castaway depots on the Auckland Islands and at Campbell Island.
Agnes and Lesley had the Sea Shop open and many of us took the opportunity to purchase post cards, a map of the Auckland Islands and other merchandise. The sea however was beginning to get a little on the rough side and at noon the barometer had taken a steep dive as we came under the influence of a frontal system. We continued to make good time and by noon were about 12 hours ahead of schedule, with 80 nautical miles to run to Macquarie. The east-north east swell had really moved us along nicely.
Macquarie Island is located on the Australian/Pacific plate boundary and is formed of rocks from the earth’s mantle. Many of the rocks are iron and magnesium rich and are termed ultramafic. They have been formed about six kilometres under the mantle and pushed up. At 3 p.m. Don gave an interesting introduction to the early history, the establishment of the Australian station and conservation measures undertaken for Macquarie Island. This lecture was followed by Samuel’s second lecture concerned with penguins. Samuel mentioned there are now 19 penguin species and he acquainted us with many interesting facts. One of these concerned the largest penguin the Emperor with the male estimated to cover 40,000 km during trips on the sea ice during its lifetime, when he is also calculated to lose eight years of his life from fasting.
Several birds have been about however an unusual sighting was made at 3 p.m. when a Dark Faced Kermadec Petrel was spotted. Two Bottlenose Dolphins were also seen.
 The weather at Macquarie has not been particularly good. To 9 a.m. 42.4 mm of rainfall was recorded. At 6.30 p.m. we had 12 nautical miles to travel and the front had passed. Nathan who has been in contact with the Australian stations said we can expect an easterly swell from behind and 20 knots of south to south-west wind. We were also reminded that the station operates two hours behind New Zealand.
Most of us took advantage of completing post cards for mailing at Macquarie although these will not reach their destination until perhaps April or May. Dinner this evening was postponed to 8.30 to enable galley staff to have better conditions for preparing and serving our meal. By then we were expected to be in the lee of the island and hopefully in calmer waters. The meal was up to the usual high standard and the Southland roast shoulder of lamb with roast vegetables followed by a delightful and nicely presented vanilla panacotta with melon and pineapple sauce was excellent. We then called it a day with hopes for better weather tomorrow.

Photo: S.Blanc

Day 7 Saturday 17 January 
Macquarie Island – Buckle and Hasselborough Bays
Noon position: Latitude 54^o32.298’South; Longitude 158^o57.921’East
Air temperature: 10^oC Water 9^oC
Pressure: 981hp
Captain Dimitry placed the ship in a “holding pattern” and during the evening, six return traverses were made from Buckle’s Bay to Lusitania Bay. Apart for the occasional roll due to the south-westerly swell, we had a fairly comfortable night and this morning got up to find a bleak day which did however show some sign of clearing. The top of the island was shrouded with mist and we could see large waves breaking all along the coast. It has been known at times for big seas to wash right over the isthmus from Buckles to West Bays.
Nathan made contact with the radio operator at the ANARE (Australia National Antarctic Research Expeditions) Station and advised us that because of the swell, with waves up to two metres high breaking on the shore, we would be unable to land this morning. Winds of 5 – 10 knots were abating and following breakfast at 8 a.m., we headed south again on another traverse.
Don was again invaluable with his commentary conducted from the Bridge. He has enjoyed numerous visits to the island since 1997 and knows the various aspects intimately. Our brochure on Macquarie Island given when we boarded the ship also gave valuable background information. The station reported that by 9 a.m. this morning 63.4 mm of rain had been recorded. This was a new record – the previous 24 hour record of 52.8 mm was recorded on 14 March 2001. Over a period of about 36 hours the station received a total of 105.6 mm.
As we journeyed along the coast, evidence for regrowth since the rabbits have gone was clearly seen. The lower spurs were rich green although higher areas with mainly tussocks were much browner. Some waterfalls and slips were clear evidence of the heavy rain and at one penguin colony, it appeared a slip had come down and in all probability, killed some penguins. We had a good view of Joseph Hatch’s cast iron penguin digesters in the King Penguin colony and at Hurd Point saw the location of the extensive Royal Penguin colony there.
At 9.30 a.m. we made our turn north for Buckle’s Bay again. The sea was gradually calming and hopes were held for a landing this afternoon, this evening or tomorrow. Most of us watched the excellent documentary enentitled ‘Saving Macquarie Island’ on the rabbit eradication programme, produced by The Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Service. By 11.30 a.m. the swell was dropping although considerable white water was evident at the two landing sites at Buckles Bay. We then began a further run south before having lunch at 12.30 p.m.
We assembled in the lecture room at 1.45 p.m. for a presentation from Nathan on ‘Ice Maps and How to Read Them’. Nathan began by stating that the Ross Sea is the furthest south a ship can travel in Antarctica. The area has its own weather and current systems and these determine ice conditions. Using satellite imagery which is interpreted by the University of Bremen, the extent of ice is described in tenths and by use of colours. Dark purple is multi-year heavy ice, while yellow and green is one-year lighter ice. The maps indicate how fast the ice can change. It is a dynamic system.
Using knowledge of current and weather patterns, Nathan then outlined the plan of approach which is likely to take a route south to the 180^o meridian and then move in a westerly direction with about six days in the ice until reaching McMurdo Sound around 320 nautical miles south of Cape Adare. The amount to which our time in the south takes place, also needs to allow for exiting the Ross Sea along with around three to four days to reach Campbell Island. Nathan also mentioned that two yachts, one of fibreglass and 72 ft long, the other of steel and 60ft long, have left Hobart for the Ross Sea.
With diminished swells and hopeful of a landing at Buckles Bay, Nathan and staff went out in two Zodiacs to assess the situation. Buckles Bay was however ruled out and they then went around to Hasselborough Bay on the west side of the isthmus. This looked promising so the Captain then took the ship around and anchored at 4.55 p.m. when we sighted a male Orca. Nathan returned to the ship and a briefing was held in the lecture theatre. The station however had bad news. The very heavy rain yesterday created slips and the dam from which fresh water is supplied was filled with sediment. The pipes that carried water to the station were badly damaged.
We were however told by Chris Howard the Chief Ranger for Tasmanian Park and Wildlife Service that we could as groups walk for up to four hours, about the area of beach beside Hasselborough Bay, named after the discoverer of Macquarie Island. Owing to a wave zone of about eight metres, the landing would be a wet one and so we prepared accordingly. However by 5.25 p.m. the ship was according to the markings on the hull, rising up to 2.8 m with the swell (waves were breaking over the Judge and Clerk Islands to the north) and with safety paramount, Nathan and staff advised it was unfortunately too dangerous to proceed. We now hope to have a further try tomorrow here or at Sandy Bay, before turning southwards.
Bird life observed today included a White Morph Giant Petrel, Sooty Albatross, Black-browed Albatross, Campbell Albatross, Wandering Albatross, Southern Royal Albatross, Brown Skua, Macquarie Island Shag, Kelp Gull and Antarctic Tern. In the water were seen Royal, King, Gentoo and Rock Hopper Penguins. We spent the rest of the day enjoying convivial conversation in the Bar/Library and enjoyed a lovely meal which included New Zealand venison, before having an early night with hopes for a fine day and calm seas tomorrow.

Photo: S.Blanc

Day 8 Sunday 18 January 
Macquarie Island, Enroute to Antarctica
Natalia’s birthday celebrated.
Noon position: Latitude 54^o 42.750’ South; Longitude 158^o 52.006’East
Air temperature: 10^oC Water 8^oC
Pressure:  987hp
We had a very good rest last night until around 3 a.m. when the ship began to roll a little. At 5.30 a.m. the Captain moved the Spirit of Enderby around to Buckles Bay and we then began to head down to Sandy Bay. It was a cool 7.5^oC outside and much of the island was shrouded with mist. Royal and King penguins were porpoising and a Giant Petrel was seen feeding on an unsavoury looking mass, that bird enthusiast Steve thought was a large deceased Elephant Seal.
At Sandy Bay waves were seen washing five to six metres up the beach then rebounding off a mass of kelp. As at the isthmus, large slips had come down the slopes. The ship was then turned back toward Buckles Bay where two Zodiacs were put on the water. Conditions meant that it was not possible to take on the Ranger and staff and following a gathering in the lecture room, we were advised that a landing at Sandy Bay would not be possible. It was a very difficult decision for any expedition leader, but we fully understood the position and were most grateful for the effort made by Nathan, his team and Captain Dimitry. Macquarie Island is accessible 95% of the time and we were just unlucky.
As we continued towards Lusitania Bay, our attention was drawn to 50-60 mostly dark brown Giant Petrels including a White Morph, this only found with the Southern Giant petrel species. The birds appeared to be feeding on something and it was not long before it was apparent what interested them. A pod of Orca that had taken a penguin also appeared and we had excellent viewings and photography, as the whales were very close to the ship. Some Orca turned upside down in a technique used to distract and disturb prey, and a penguin skin was seen.
 
‘A Yellow-eyed Penguin named Blue
Had a brawl with a Skua or two
They both heard him say
As he porpoised away
I can swim faster than you.’
Christine
 
At 11.45 p.m. when we were about 400m off the Lusitania Bay King Penguin colony which accommodates an estimated 250,000 pairs, the anchor was lowered. Unfortunately we are unable to land here as the closest one is able to be is 150m from the beach. However we did have superb viewing of large numbers of penguins about the ship and a good appreciation of the vast number in the colony. Off shore some were together as ‘rafts’ and swimming on or below the surface. Others were calling or lying on their side or back as they preened themselves, and many were diving for food which includes fish. The species can dive up to 300m and it was a good opportunity to observe their antics and the beautiful coloured plumage about the head and neck. A Light-mantled Sooty Albatross was also seen and the morning was certainly an outstanding opportunity to observe nature at its best as a spell of sunshine improved the day.
At 1 p.m. the anchors were raised and we headed south with around 1000 nautical miles to our second waypoint. At 3.30 p.m. Don gave an excellent presentation enentitled ‘The Art of Getting from A to B’. This focused on chart projection (the Mercator projection), Latitude and Longitude, how to read Latitude and Longitude, charts, plotting the ship’s position and GPS. Don explained very well these aspects and we were reminded that 1 nautical mile = 1.852 km or 1.15 statute mile or I’ (minute) of arc at the Equator and that 10 mph = 10 knots. Use of a sextant was explained in which the angle is measured between the sun and one’s eye and how GPS (Global Positioning System) accurately determines height, then calculates where the receiver is to measure distance.
An interesting video of Orca chasing Sea Otters was shown followed by a description on the circulation of the Southern Ocean including the Antarctic Convergence which we will soon encounter. This is roughly a circular belt of water about 25 miles (40km) wide lying between Latitudes 48^o and 60^o South. By no means a fixed boundary, it forms where cold north-flowing Antarctic bottom water and Antarctic surface water meet the warmer water flowing south. This produces a sharp change in temperature which we will encounter.
The final presentation of the day was Part 1 of the excellent film ‘Longitude’. This focused on the invention by Englishman John Harrison of his clock and later his watch for determining Longitude. These beautiful and intricate hand-made instruments can be viewed today at the National Maritime Museum London.
Later in the afternoon we were enjoying a partially clear sky with the ship riding a good swell causing it to roll. The rules for the iceberg sighting completion were posted. These included the option of either latitude or time and the berg which had to be no smaller than a London double-decker bus had to be seen with the naked eye.
During the afternoon two Blue Petrels were seen and at 5.30 p.m. the water temperature had fallen to 6^o. By 7.30 p.m. we had 940 nautical miles to run to the 180^o longitude. An hour later the water temperature was down to 5.90^o. Most of us had an early night and to close this entry Frank our No.2 chef had an interesting experience. He said ‘I opened a cupboard in the galley and it was too late to stop a bag falling towards me. I then became covered from head to food with cocoa – it went everywhere!’

Photo: S.Blanc


Photo: S.Blanc


Photo: S.Blanc

Day 9 Monday 19 January – at sea. Southward Ho! 
Enroute to Antarctica
Noon position: Latitude 57^o 53.95’ South; Longitude 163^o 13.2’ East
Air temperature: 5^oC Water 5.9^oC
Pressure: 1080hp
This morning we got up to a fairly calm sea and surprisingly at 7.30 a.m. only one Southern Royal Albatross was about. Last evening there were several Albatrosses. They included two Wanderers and three Light-mantled Sooty Albatross. Other birds included a Giant Petrel and two unidentified prions. The water and air temperature are steadily falling. At 4 a.m. today the water was 5.6^oC and air 4^oC and at 8 a.m. the water had fallen to 4.6^oC. Yesterday there was a 2^oC drop in water temperature over 20 nautical miles. By noon the water temperature had risen.
At about 10 a.m. we left Australia’s 200 nautical mile zone around Macquarie Island and were approximately 10^o of Latitude before 60^o which marks the boundary for the Antarctic Treaty (1959) and also for the Ross Dependency, the area administered by New Zealand. The Ross Dependency was passed by Order in Council by Britain to New Zealand in 1923, however all territorial claims are presently held in abeyance although while in the Ross Dependency, New Zealanders are subject to certain laws. Russia and the United States have not claimed any territory in Antarctica.
The Antarctic Treaty is a simple document which followed the very successful International Geophysical Year 1957-1958. The area south of Latitude 60^o represents 10% of the world’s land surface and 10% of its oceans. The Protocol on Environment Protection (also known as the Madrid Protocol) signed in 1991, marked the beginning of a comprehensive environment protection scheme. It has determined that Antarctica remains as a natural reserve devoted to peace and science; establishes environmental principles for the conduct of all activities; prohibits activity relating to mineral resources other than research, and subjects all activities to prior assessment of their environmental impact. It has been welcomed by conservation organisations and stands as a landmark in Antarctic history.
It was appropriate that at 10 a.m. we had the opportunity of viewing the excellent Natural History New Zealand documentary entitled ‘Beyond the Crystal Ocean’ and filmed by renowned photographer Michael Single of Dunedin. This focused on the Southern Ocean which began with the winter cruise of the US icebreaker/research ship Nathaniel B Palmer (named after the famous American sealing captain) which covered 800 nautical miles of ocean to the Ross Ice Shelf. The science cruise took two weeks and was the furthest south a ship had been during winter. Other aspects focused on the sea ice and life above and below the ocean surface.
At 11.30 Don gave a further lecture entitled ‘43 Years of Adventuring’. This was a most interesting presentation which gave us an insight into his long and extensive expeditions around the world by sea and air – the latter by gyrocopter, including a year spent with his wife at Commonwealth Bay in Antarctica along with conservation work on Mawson’s huts at Cape Denison. His most recent expedition by sea was to retrace Captain Bligh’s famous open boat voyage and with an interest in the early Spanish galleons, Don is now involved in treasure hunting in Tonga.
During the morning a possible Fin Whale was seen, two possible Hourglass Dolphins and birds included Sooty Searwaters, Cape, White-chinned, White-headed and Mottled Petrels and prions.
David gave his first lecture at 3 p.m. on the history of early exploration in the Ross Sea region. Entitled ‘Forerunner to the Heroic-era’, the lecture began by covering early ideas for the existence of a southern landmass, the early expeditions of Cook and Bellingshausen, the three national expeditions conducted by France, Britain and the United States and finally the first expedition to winter on land, led by Norwegian born Borchgrevink at Cape Adare in 1899.
During the afternoon the water temperature had risen at 4 p.m. to 10^oC however unusually few birds were about. A snow flurry occurred and mammals sighted included five Hourglass Dolphins along with two whale blows although the species was not identified. Those of us not on the Bridge, relaxed in the Bar/Library and others rested in the cabin or enjoyed being out on deck. About 01.30 a.m. tomorrow morning those of us who are ‘Antarctic virgins’ and having never crossed Latitude 60^o South are invited to participate in Don’s ‘Antarctic fire’. Read on to hear about the frivolities! The remainder of the day was spent watching Part 2 of ‘Longitude’, followed by the usual convivial gathering for a drink and yarn on many subjects before another fine dinner.

Day 10 Tuesday 20 January – at sea. 
Enroute to Antarctica. Southern Ocean
We cross 60^o South Latitude. First iceberg. New Zealand’s Scott Base 57 years old today.
Noon position: Latitude 61^o 37.550’ South; Longitude 168^o 45.28’ East
Air temperature: 7^oC Water 5^oC
Pressure: 1021hp
At 1.30 a. m. this morning 20 of us including two crew and a few onlookers, assembled in the bow lit with the ship’s lights for a special ceremony. The rules were simple – no wet weather clothes and as little as possible. In preparation, crew members Sasha and Dimitri had a pre-warm up in the sauna; it was 5^oC outside. Coordinator Don made a brief speech and fire hosed the assembled group. ‘I remind you that you are sacrificing yourselves to keep King Neptune happy and to give you good luck on board’ he said. Photos were then taken and each participant (some opted out) now making their first crossing of 60^o South Latitude was eligible for a certificate. At the conclusion of the brief ceremony, Don unsurprisingly had a bucket of water thrown over him! Later quite a few who had participated enjoyed time thawing out in the sauna before retiring to the warm bunk. We were all now in waters under the jurisdiction of the Antarctic Treaty (1959).
A few hours later we were woken with the announcement from Nathan that it was 7.25 a.m. and the first iceberg had been sighted away to the west of starboard. This was recorded by radar as being at 61^o09.8’ South, 167^o12.0’ East and estimated to be 20 nautical miles away. The tabular berg had tilted and estimated by Don to be about 80m high and from our view, around 300m wide. Water depth on the chart was at this time around 1600m. This led to a determination at the staff breakfast meeting, as to who the two winners of the competition were. After much discussion, Derek was awarded the prize for latitude of 61^o0’15” South and Lorraine for the closest time of sighting as 08.10a.m. However Derek had written ‘inappropriate markings’ on the form and it was suggested that as he did not attend Don’s navigation lecture he should be ‘keel-hauled’. With much laughter it was decided that the Judge’s decision was final and Derek was declared the winner.
Derek West from London later wrote:
“I first ‘discovered’ Scott in the nineteen forties when my father took me to see John Mills in [the film] ‘Scott of the Antarctic’. I was hooked! From then on I read every book about Antarctica I could lay my hands on. The highlight of all this has come to fruition on this trip. Also, I won the prize of being first into Scott’s Hut by predicting the co-ordinates for when we would see our first iceberg. This tour was [later] conducted by David Harrowfield for which I was very grateful”.
In his morning announcement Nathan advised there has been little change in the ice maps and that we have 400 nautical miles to run before the Antarctic Circle 66^o 33’ South Latitude. The morning was beautiful with a calm sea and a few Sooty Shearwaters and Antarctic Prions about. We were advised to keep a look out for whales as the sea provided ideal conditions for sighting. A further iceberg was seen off to starboard at 09.00 and a distant sighting was made of the blow of a Humpback Whale. David gave his second historical lecture at 10.00 to a good attendance. Entitled ‘Antarctica Unveiled’, the lecture focused on Scott’s first expedition, the National Antarctic (Discovery) Expedition 1901-1904. The power-point presentation made extensive use of early photographs and focused on the ship Discovery, sledging journeys and scientific achievements which included discovery of the first aerial photographs taken (from a balloon named Eva), the Cape Crozier Emperor Penguin colony, the Polar Plateau and of the first Dry Valley, since named the Taylor Valley after geographer Thomas Griffith Taylor of Scott’s last expedition in 1910-1913.
After a break the first episode of ‘The Last Place on Earth’, based on Roland Huntford’s book Scott and Amundsen (also republished under same title as the film) was shown at 11:30 a.m. At 3 p.m. we were issued with our handsome blue Antarctic insulated jackets by the expedition staff with the assistance of Mary B.  An hour later there was a sudden drop in water temperature to 3.3^oC and a rise in air temperature to 9^oC. At this time we were at Latitude 62^o 26.181’ South, Longitude 170^o 02.54’ East. According to the chart we had reached the start of the Convergence at Macquarie Island at 4 pm the day we left, this accounting for the sea fog. The line of the Convergence appears to be much further south this year.
Of interest is the scarcity of bird life which is similar to the same time/day last year. Each day including today, we have seen Sooty Shearwaters, Mottled and White-headed Petrels. Other species seen today were two Blue Petrels, a Subantarctic Diving Petrel, two Wilson’s Storm Petrels (first sighting this voyage), Black Browed Albatross and Southern Royal Albatross. Nancy and Steve have maintained an all-day vigil in the bow, observing and recording. The sea continues to be calm and much of the sky is clouded over with the occasional clear patch.
At 5 p.m. Samuel gave an excellent presentation entitled ‘Antarctica – the Great White Continent’. In his lecture which was illustrated with excellent visuals, sea ice was covered and also the Antarctic Treaty, politics and other aspects. Of special interest was his reference to the first scientific expedition to the Southern Ocean. This was led by Jean Baptiste Bouvet de Lozier in 1739, 34 years before James Cook, when the concentration of whales was recorded and penguins and ice bergs was described. Bouvetoya Island, a dormant volcanic island in the South Atlantic, is named in honour of the French explorer. Numerous good questions followed Samuel’s lecture.
At 6.25 p.m. a southerly course change took place and this evening we had delightful entree with pine nuts and pieces of smoked chicken, followed by a superb main course of either rib-eye steak or rack of lamb then a desert of sweet pecan pie.
At 8 p.m. the Bridge recorded the water and air temperatures with the water since 4 p.m. now reading 2.7^oC and the air 4.0^oC - quite a change in four hours and the water temperature will further decrease until it reaches around 1^oC or lower to near -1.86^oC.  We were then at Latitude 63^o 02.45’ South, Longitude 170^o 39.82’ East. An hour later three Fin Whales were also seen blowing and we can expect to see more of this activity as we work our way further south. Nancy obtained some excellent photographs and the water depth at this time was around 1800m.
And so another wonderful day in the South came to a close with tomorrow being highly anticipated as we were due to make our crossing of the Antarctic Circle at Latitude 66^o 33’ South.


Photo: S.Blanc

Day 11 Wednesday 21 January 
Southern Ocean. We cross the Antarctic Circle Latitude 66^o 33.3’ South
Handa’s birthday celebrated
Noon position: Latitude 66^o 06.45’ South; Longitude 172^o 58.9’ East
Air temperature: 2.1^oC Water 4^oC
Pressure: 1004hp
The sea got up early this morning and by 7.30 a.m. a brisk north-west wind was helping to push us southwards. Several small bergs, possibly parts of larger icebergs, were seen as they made their way north. These silent sentinels of all shapes had calved from ice shelves and glacier tongues and were well-weathered. A few ‘growlers’ were also seen floating just above the surface. These are potential hazards to unwary ships.
By 7.30 a.m. the air temperature had lowered to 3^oC and at 4 a.m. the water was a cool +1.1^oC and will fall even lower. A few birds about included a pair of beautiful Light-mantled Sooty Albatross which swept above the waves fringed with white, a Cape Petrel and a prion. On the bridge the officers on watch and assisted by a crew member using binoculars, scanned the horizon for any bergs concealed by the light fog. After a hearty breakfast, many of us assembled in the lecture theatre to enjoy Part 2 of ‘The Last Place on Earth’. The bird life gradually increased during the morning with several Light-mantled Sooty and also Black-browed Albatross. Of special interest was the first sighting this voyage of Antarctic Petrels, of which two were seen. Unfortunately it was not a good morning to walk the deck or carry out bird observations from the bow, the Bridge being a much warmer place.
At 09.35 a.m. we had 55 nautical miles to travel before the Antarctic Circle. This is a geographical boundary (also in the Arctic) which in summer marks the most northerly point at which the sun is visible for 24 hours a day on mid-summer’s day (21 December), when the sun is at its highest above the horizon. In winter it is the southernmost point at which the sun can be seen on mid-winters day (21 June). South of the Antarctic Circle it is dark 24 hours a day in winter.
The crossing of the Antarctic Circle is considered to be a symbolic point of the entry into Antarctic waters. On 17 January 1773 Cook and his crews on the HMS Resolution and HMS Adventure were first to cross this significant geographical line.
At noon Nathan and Don assembled us in the lecture room for a compulsory briefing. This began with the IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators founded 1991) briefing of which Heritage Expeditions is a foundation member. They told us that during this summer, just 300 people are expected to visit the Ross Sea region compared to 20,000 on the Antarctic Peninsula. This was followed by the Code of Conduct for historic site visits administered by the Antarctic Heritage Trust.  
Birds increased with ten mostly juvenile, Light-Mantled Sooty Albatross following the ship and a Campbell Albatross was also recorded. Bergs came and went in the mist and many of us took photographs of their presence on the screen of the Japanese Furuno radar set. Soon after lunch a Humpback Whale was sighted and at 2.15 p.m. we assembled in the Library/Bar for a special ceremony to commemorate crossing the Antarctic Circle. There was even a ‘hybrid penguin’ present. As the time neared for the crossing, Samuel relayed the position passed by David over the PA system and at 2.32.5 p.m. the ship made the crossing.
Bob dispensed for each of us, a mug of mulled wine made by Frank as Nathan read the following:
“By anyone’s standards this event is an auspicious occasion-very few people have crossed the Antarctic Circle by ship. So on this occasion we want to both celebrate the occasion and acknowledge its importance.
Today each one of us joins a unique group of explorers that have gone before us, not only showing us the way, but giving us courage to follow and to make our own destiny. We follow explorers such as James Clark Ross, Robert Falcon Scott, Sir Ernest Shackleton, Roald Amundsen, Sir Douglas Mawson, Richard Byrd, Sir Edmund Hillary and others, who pioneered new routes south of the Circle. Today we acknowledge them and their efforts.
Crossing the Circle also carries with it responsibility - a responsibility that those explorers who went before us took seriously which is part of the reason that we are here today. They advocated for the protection of these lands and wildlife that inhabited them, ensuring that future generations would have them to enjoy.
So today as we cross the Circle, I would like each of you to take this vow and receive the Mark of the Penguin - as evidence that you have crossed the Antarctic Circle and have taken the pledge which I am going to ask you to say after me.
Having endured the privations of the Roaring Forties, the rigours of the Furious Fifties and the ice-strewn waters of the Screaming Sixties to cross the Antarctic Circle, pay homage to those early explorers who have not only shown the way, but have demonstrated what it means to advocate for the continued protection of Antarctica and its wildlife and history. I [own name] hereby pledge that in accepting the Mark of the Penguin will, until I take my last expedition, advocate to everybody, even those who will not listen, the importance of the Antarctic and its wildlife and history.
Would you please step forward and receive the Mark of the Penguin.”
This was applied by Don and Agnes.
The afternoon passed quickly and at 5 p.m. Don gave a very interesting presentation video entitled ‘Polar Bearing – 200 teddy bears to Antarctica’. This was followed by updates on the South Magnetic Pole and Southern Ocean weather.
Of interest from the Bridge was seeing what appeared to be a mauled or very sick, young Emperor Penguin which lifted its head briefly as it drifted past the ship, a number of Antarctic Petrels, several Mottled Petrels and two blowing Humpback Whales. A little ice was in the water however no further bergs were seen. Occasionally the sun made an effort to break through however fog of varying intensity came and went and by 8 p.m. the air temperature was 2^oC and water 0.1^oC.
After a beautiful evening meal with pork fillet stuffed with apricots and almonds or fine Chatham Islands blue cod, both of which were very well received, a few hardy souls walked around the deck while most preferred to stay indoors. Several cabins now had their panel heaters turned on. Nathan in his last announcement for the day said that about 1 a.m. our course will change to south-east and we expect to confront the ice pack which has probably been condensed by the north-west wind today.

Photo: S.Blanc

Day 12 Thursday 22 January  
Ross Sea
Noon position: Latitude 69^o 58.024’ South; Longitude 173^o 50.492’ East
Air temperature: 3.1^oC Water 0.2^oC
Pressure: 960hp
First Antarctic fulmar sighted (absent in Ross Sea -Spirit of Enderby- last two seasons).
We entered the pack as promised at 1 a.m. with some not sleeping, noticing changes in the sound of the ship and surroundings. Frank on his first visit to Antarctica was one of those out on deck at 3 a.m. By 07.30 a.m. and at Latitude 69^o 24’ South Longitude 173^o 57’ East, many were on the Bridge with most enjoying their first Antarctic experience, as we were surrounded by one year old snow covered pack-ice and open leads. There were a few snow flurries and the chart indicated that we had during the night followed a zig-zag course. Below us was 3000m of water. At 8 a.m. the air temperature was a cool 2^oC and the water slightly warmer at -0.1^oC. The sky influenced by the snow below, was a pale grey and a cool breeze was blowing.
There was much to interest us around the ship. Many Snow Petrels were seen, the occasional Antarctic Petrel, a nice group of Adelie Penguins, one Emperor Penguin and several Crab Eater Seals including a group of three on one floe. This is the most common of the true Antarctic seals and one species we had come so far to see. On the Bridge Captain Dimitri perched on his stool studied the ice-flecked Southern Ocean as he sought out the best route for the Helmsman to follow through the ice, as we headed southwards towards the Ross Sea. Apart for the background sound of the ship’s engines, little sound was heard on the bridge, as we gazed in awe at the beauty of the pristine surroundings before us. This previously had been confined to books, video, dvd, www, photographs or discussion with others.
Making our way through leads between floes, was little different to that done by mariners of the heroic-era (1895-1917) who in their diaries, wrote about the vista surrounding them. They also remarked on hearing only the rhythmic, thump, thump, thump, of the triple expansion steam engine below, as it enabled their wooden ship to push through the ice. Some passengers also commented on the similarity to present day ‘explorers’ making return visits. Also how technology with electronic aids such as satellites and radar, has replaced eyes aided with early binoculars along with the ‘tub’ or ‘crow’s nest’ on the main mast, to facilitate travel through icy waters.
Many of us enjoyed seeing the exquisite blue shades in some of the older ice. Snow appears white because the air trapped between ice crystals scatter, reflecting all the wave lengths of sunlight back into one’s eyes and is therefore seen by us as white. However compacted deep blue ice such as from a glacier ice or in an iceberg that has calved from an ice shelf, retains small air bubbles which scatter little light. This allows the penetration of sunlight deep into the ice. Ice crystals absorb six times as much light at the red end of the spectrum and at the blue end. Since the ice absorbs most of the red light, only the blue end of the spectrum remains reflected back to us to see.
This morning was left for us to enjoy our new surroundings. Nathan mentioned during his 9 a.m. announcements, that the ice map looks fairly true to its colours and that we can expect to meet heavier ice conditions. Around mid-day, we enjoyed two excellent sightings of Crab Eater Seals, which one passenger likened to giant ‘looper caterpillars’. Birds about the ship included the Northern Giant, Antarctic and Snow Petrel. A Brown or Subantarctic Skua as it is now described was also seen.
We all decided that one can spend many hours gazing at the ice. There is something addictive and almost mesmerising, as the ice gently moves up and down with waves created by current, wind and the Spirit of Enderby. The floes are all different as they change shape, are continually on the move and reveal their varied beauty. Six varieties of pizza, excellent large potato wedges and sliced beetroot was enjoyed for a splendid lunch today. Connor and Frank really did our waistlines proud. This was topped off by the first sighting this voyage, of an Antarctic (previously named Southern) Fulmar by David and Agnes from the stern. The fulmar following the ship flew along the Port side where it was verified by Steve as it flew around the bow and a cheer went up. The bird then settled on the ocean off the stern. During the past two seasons the species has been absent.
One of the best photographs today however, had its true glory revealed when studied later. Ben had photographed as many of us did, a blue fissure in an ice floe which on closer examination, revealed a Snow Petrel sitting on a nest with in a later photograph, the other parent flying above the flow.
Nathan announced that the latest satellite map for the ice had arrived. This indicated that we have around 70-80 nautical miles to the ice edge which is changing hourly and will be in the vicinity of Cape Adare and the Downshire Cliffs at the entrance to the Ross Sea.
We assembled in the lecture room at 3.30 p.m. for a lecture by Samuel. This was entitled ‘Sea ice; the eighth continent’. Using excellent pictures with many taken during his expeditions to the Arctic and Antarctic (where he spent a winter), Samuel began by explaining the terminology concerning ice such as we have seen today. The formation and decline of sea ice for both Polar Regions followed and of concern was the effect the lack of summer sea ice will have on the livelihood of the indigenous Inuit and wild life – particularly Polar Bears. Some aspects such as effect on albedo (extent to which incoming solar radiation is reflected) are not established and how will the ocean react in the long term along with world climate.
Late this afternoon the Spirit of Enderby was confronted with heavier ice and large blocks of ice passed the ship. On a nearby floe we once again had the opportunity to photograph a Crab Eater Seal and after the evening meal enjoyed an excellent view of an Emperor Penguin. We anticipate even better lighting conditions for photography as we move steadily south towards the Downshire Cliffs.
At the end of another interesting day we enjoyed a sumptuous dinner which began with a delicious seafood chowder. Later many of us spent time on the Bridge enjoying the ice and occasional bird life including an Emperor Penguin at fairly close quarters along with small clusters of Adelie Penguins.

Photo: S.Blanc

Day 13 Friday 23 January 
Ross Sea
Noon position: Latitude 71^o 27.1087’ South; Longitude 172^o 06.1922’ East
Air temperature: -1.0^oC Water –0.1^oC
Pressure: 987hp
We enjoyed good long spells of calm water last evening and on entering pack ice again, the occasional large floe contacted with the hull. Steady snow began driving in from the south-west between 5.30 and 6 a.m. however the blizzard-like conditions with poor visibility, did not detour many of us from spending time on the Bridge. At one stage a flock of 20+ Antarctic Petrels flew by however the Snow Petrels were according to Steve “hard to see” – funny that. A small number of Adelie Penguins were present.
Captain Dimitry was busy on the Bridge and taking advantage of the heated spinning windows to establish the best course to be taken. He frequently relayed course changes to the Helmsman who after making the correction repeated the Captain’s command thereby ensuring the instruction was understood and made. Visibility diminished and snow increased with a crew member requiring use of a snow shovel to clear the deck behind the Bridge. At 8 a.m. the air temperature had fallen to -2^oC, the same as that recorded for the sea water.
After a fine ‘French’ breakfast which included very nice ‘French toast’ and crispy bacon, Nathan advised that the ship would be parked for around two hours to give time for the weather to clear, as the radar was having difficulty picking up leads just 200m ahead of the ship. We now had 15 – 18 nautical miles to go before the ice edge and as Don pointed out, the edge of the ice at the points of entry and exit can be dangerous due to the swell. During the time the ships engines were stopped and driven by the current, we drifted slowly at 1.4 knots, although basically remained on station.
At some stage all the early ships were held up for varying periods in Ross Sea pack ice. It was therefore appropriate that at this time, David would give his third lecture which focused on Shackleton. Entitled ‘A Charismatic Hero’, the lecture was concerned with the British Antarctic (Nimrod) Expedition 1907-1909. The lectured covered key aspects of the expedition including walking to within 97 nautical miles of the Geographic South Pole, reaching the South Magnetic Pole, the first ascent of Mt. Erebus and other achievements. The lecture concluded with a playing of the only recorded speech by Shackleton originally sold on an American Edison cylinder record to play on a phonograph (which David has), although for today was played via a digitised version on a laptop computer.
After a break many of us enjoyed part four of the ‘Last Place on Earth’. The series has certainly increased interest and added to our knowledge of Scott’s last expedition, with the ship’s library books in demand. By noon we were in open water, however the sun which showed signs of appearing through the low cloud, did not remain long. We were drifting at 290^o from the north-west in an area of open water with beyond about 7/10ths of ice with leads and the wind was driving in snow from the south. Owing to the full moon, the ship was under the influence of a north-north-east current rather than the wind. Three Crab Eater Seals were seen on floes and a flock of 25 Antarctic Petrels flew around the ship. Out on deck it was a cool -0.1^oC. At 3 p.m. a bitterly cold southerly was blowing, waves covered any open water and the ship was plugging along at 3.5 knots. A small flock of around 8 Antarctic Petrels appeared then disappeared in the murk.
Don once again had us in the lecture room. He began with a short explanation on compass bearings and influence of the magnetic poles and mentioned that we are presently south of the south magnetic pole. Don’s presentation was entitled ‘A Year in Antarctica’, and covered the time he and his wife Margie wintered over by Mawson’s huts at Cape Dennison in Commonwealth Bay, East Antarctica. Don kept all of us attentive as he outlined the two years preparations including buying a yacht they named Spirit of Sydney, problems related to the hut, how it stood up to the katabatic winds and blizzards, the low temperatures which fell to as low as -18^oC within the hut overnight, daily activities including the schools educational programme along with, amusing observations of wildlife. We look forward to viewing the documentary.
The Sea Shop then opened for a short time enabling us to acquire a few items. By now however, although the wind was still blowing, the sun was making an effort to break through and we continued plugging south towards Terra Nova Bay with the aim of having as much time as possible in the Ross Sea region.
By 6 p.m. the sun was out and we were in a large area of open water with scattered floes although the wind was still blowing an estimated 30-35 knots. The southern side of the ice edge was near and there were signs of a swell coming under the ice from the south. Nathan advised that the new ice map appeared with the conditions we have experienced over the last 24 hours. A course was set which would see us pass the Downshire Cliffs and Coulman Island as we make our way to Terra Nova Bay, with the wind expected to drop by early morning. Soon after six we had further good viewing of Adelie Penguins and some of us obtained excellent photographs of a large Leopard Seal. Later 5 – 6 South Polar Skua were seen, the first for the expedition.
At 7.50 p.m. we cleared the ice and with the second engine engaged headed on a 300 nautical mile journey towards Terra Nova Bay. We had certainly enjoyed our pack-ice experience and looked forward to the following day.

Day 14 Saturday 24 January 
Ross Sea. Terra Nova Bay, Zodiac cruise in ice floes
Noon position: Latitude 74^o 37.173’ South; Longitude 170^o 25.494’ East
Air temperature: 1.0^oC Water 2.0 ^oC
Pressure: 1000hp
Mary B’s birthday celebrated
We had a very good rest in calm conditions and rose to a nice sunny morning with a temperature of 3^oC. Unfortunately the sun was not with us long and the three layers of cloud (Stratus, Alto and Cirrus) briefly visible then by 9.30 a.m. became a layer of strato-cumulus although we were blessed with a calm sea.
The morning passed by quickly. Nathan advised a possible programme for the hours ahead and at 10 a.m. David gave his lecture ‘Triumph and Tragedy’ which dealt with Scott’s last expedition, the British Antarctic (Terra Nova) Expedition 1910-1913 and was dedicated to William Burton RN, the last survivor from the expedition. The lecture covered a lot of ground and provided detail additional to that from our first four programmes based on the book by Roland Huntford. At the conclusion of the lecture numerous questions focused on a variety of aspects including stores taken on the polar journey. Later in the morning 2-3 Minke Whales were seen.
By 1 p.m. we had already made a course change to bring us in line with Terra Nova Bay and at 2.15 p.m. we enjoyed the first distant view of the Transantarctic Mountains. At this stage we still had around 80 nautical miles to run which would see us off the Northern Foothills between 10 and 11 p.m. The Northern Foothills, a line of brownish coastal hills on the west side of Terra Nova Bay and originally called the Southern Foothills, were named as with several other features, by the Northern Party of Scott’s last expedition.
Shortly afterwards three Minke Whales were seen off the port bow and many of us obtained photographs and also had a good view of a row of ‘footprints’ – the roughly circular patches of clear flat water remaining after the whales had sounded and passed below the bow to starboard.  Further sightings have been made of the South Polar Skua and a number of Snow Petrels have been seen.
Episode 5 of the ‘Last Place on Earth’ was well attended by many of us who are keen to follow the series through to its conclusion with a further two episodes to follow. In the afternoon some of us took time to exercise with walks around the deck, making the most of the calm waters. We were able to photograph a moulting Emperor Penguin and enjoyed a good view of a Crabeater Seal with a beautiful silvery coat as it passed by.
At 5.15 p.m. Nathan called us together for a briefing as we hope to make several landings beginning early tomorrow morning.  An invitation has been given for us to visit Italy’s Mario Zuchelli Station and Cape Royds is accessible. However Cape Evans has about 200m of ice and we may not be able to visit McMurdo Station or Scott Base.  David gave a 15 minute talk on the Northern party of Scott’s last expedition, which was incarcerated for nearly 200 days in an ice cave on Inexpressible Island which we hope to visit. Later we embarked on a Zodiac cruise amongst ice floes near the ship. This was a wonderful experience and the electric blue colour in tilted hummocks of ice were outstanding. Some blocks of ice on large floes resembled a graveyard struck by lightning. Above through gaps in purple-grey cumulus clouds, the sun looked like a white hot ball of metal.
As we made our way through the floes with the Spirit of Enderby eventually some distance away, Samuel radioed that an Emperor Penguin was visible on a floe. We nosed the Zodiacs into the edge of the floe just five metres away from the Emperor. This was a wonderful opportunity to take photographs and view the beautiful colours on the bird which kindly obliged by remaining in place for us. Occasionally it showed its means of travel by tobogganing and also emitted a few brief calls. This encounter will always remain a highlight of our expedition. Continuing on our cruise a Crab Eater Seal was the next subject for photography and this was followed by sightings of another two on a nearby floe. By 9 p.m. we were back on the ship and soon in the dining room enjoying an excellent meal of Irish stew or chicken which Frank very kindly organised while Connor was driving a Zodiac. Frank made a special cake for Mary and the staff along with others at her table, then sang Happy Birthday.
A 10.30 p.m. the soft light was beautiful and the opportunity was taken to obtain photographs of Mt. Melbourne, a 2732m volcanic cone which although not active, has near the summit, areas of warm ground and fumeroles (chimney-like formations created by steam escaping through vents and meeting cold air which condenses). Inside the temperature can be +40^oC and outside the air temperature -30^oC. Excellent views were also enjoyed of Cape Washington and other areas along the Victoria Land coast. With the possibility of a very early morning start most of us decided to have as much sleep as possible.

Photo: S.Blanc


Photo: S.Blanc

Day 15 Sunday 25 January 
Terra Nova Bay – Inexpressible Island (Scott Northern party historic site); Gondwana Station (Germany); Jang Bojo Station (South Korea); Mario Zucchelli Station (Italy)
Noon position: Latitude 74^o 38.53’ South; Longitude 104^o 14.0 ’ East
Air temperature: 5^oC Water -1.9^oC
Pressure: 920hp
Celebrated Paul M’s birthday
Today we got up to a beautiful sunrise with fantastic soft light on the nearby hills and mountains. Nathan had the staff out of the bunk at 2 a.m. and we followed about an hour later. For many it had been a short night. By 3 a.m. staff members were already at a small cove on the end of Inexpressible Island and this became the landing and departure place. When the first Zodiac arrived, a large Leopard Seal was on the rocks but did not stay long. Noticeable was the amount of penguin feathers in the seal’s excrement. David and Frank led the first party initially along snow then by way of boulder hopping (some of the boulders were rather large).
After 30 minutes or so we all began arriving at the site of the ice cave. Here Scott’s Northern party spent a miserable winter in 1912 and there was ample evidence of their presence. A tin thought by David to be a Cerebos salt tin was found where it had blown to by a rock and in the immediate vicinity of the cave site were seal skins and bones and two Emperor Penguin skeletons with skins. Davis had a copy of his book ‘Icy Heritage’ here and this had a diagram illustrating a cross section of the ice cave. Of interest was a plaque placed by New Zealanders in 1969 and the official multi-lingual plaque of the Antarctic Treaty which recognises the historic site.
The morning was still with a beautiful sky and many of us took the opportunity to climb a hill above the landing place, another behind the cave site or to visit the Adelie Penguin colony around the head of the bay. Some Weddell Seals and two very ‘dessicated’ Elephant Seal carcasses were seen. According to earlier scientists who sampled tissue, these were thought to be up to 2,000 years old. Many similar remains of numerous Crabeater Seals are recorded from the Dry Valleys in south Victoria Land.
From the summit of the two nearby hills we had an excellent view of the Priestley Glacier. This was named after Shackleton and Scott expedition geologist Raymond (later Sir) Priestley and of Hells Gate Moraine near the terminal face of the glacier, named by the Northern party and of Evan Cove. The latter was thought to be named by Shackleton for Captain F.P. Evans of the USS Koonyathat had towed the Nimrod and is considered to be the first steel hulled ship to cross the Antarctic Circle.
With the last boat departing at 6.30 a.m. we began our way back and a few of us saw the two ‘sun dogs’ with one either side of the sun. Back on board after a very special landing, we enjoyed a hearty breakfast at 7 a.m. and began to prepare for our next foray ashore.
In the meantime the Captain had relocated the ship to near the Federal Republic of Germany Gondwana Hutte scientific station. The station is presently unoccupied however we were all ashore soon after 9.30 a.m. and enjoying a walk over the moon-like landscape with rocks of many colours and many with black and occasional red and yellow lichens. Some of the black lichens were over 20cm in diameter. This was our first ‘continental landing’. The station huts, especially the smaller one elevated well off the ground was of interest. This was the first hut erected for the Ganovex 1 scientific expedition in the late 1970’s. It had solar panels and expedition stickers on a wall and door. A few of us ventured to areas along the coast where we enjoyed the experience of sampling the peacefulness of the Antarctic environment. Samuel found it particularly special hearing Weddell Seals ‘singing’ and listening to the sound of moving ice. Elsewhere many of us noticed a smiling garden gnome with a wheelbarrow perched on a rock, which David suggested should be named after the Super-continent Gondwana, from which present landmasses such as Australia evolved.
Many skuas (more than last season) were perched on boulders along the ridge and several well-developed chicks close to fledging was seen. The skuas tended to resent our presence and respecting their territory, we retreated when necessary then maintained a safe distance. As we walked up a ridge marking a boundary for our excursion, the large South Korean container ship Maasgrachtregistered in Amsterdam and supplying South Korea’s new Jang Bojo Station, came into view. The station named after a military leader to whom the present Korean culture is attributed, following it being split form the Chinese culture around 900 AD.
Two American scientists from the station, Terry Bullet and Justin Maby, were pleased to see us and following their communication with the station (Nathan had made prior contact) we were invited to take a short tour. Here the Safety Officer met us and after a short walk, we gathered outside the impressive blue complex which has outstanding facilities and was opened a year ago. The two American physicists had erected four high frequency radar towers, within which was a mile of wiring. This was part of a programme to examine the interaction of ionised plasma (aurora) between the sun and earth’s magnetic field and will be one of the important areas of science undertaken here. Although arriving at short notice, the station leader kindly welcomed us and group photographs were taken in front of the main building. Nathan also presented the station leader a copy of the beautiful book ‘Galapagos of the Antarctic’ by Rodney Russ and Alex Tarauds. Of interest to us were various plaques including marking placement of a time capsule, when the station was opened on 2 December 2014 and the overall tidiness and orderly layout. The South Koreans were very hospitable and with lunch on board scheduled for 1.15 p.m., we soon made our way back over the ridge to the landing place.
Back aboard the ship there was little time for resting however as Nathan had already arranged with the station leader at Italy’s Mario Zuccelli Station at Baia Terra Nova, for us to have a visit beginning at 3.30 p.m. The weather was still excellent and after a fine lunch with pumpkin soup and garlic bread, we back on the Antarctic continent once again.
Staff allocated to look after our four groups visiting Italy’s 30+ year old scientific station  gave us a very friendly welcome, then took us on a nice walk around the complex. Amazing walls supporting roads had been made using huge granite erratic boulders and many of the facilities utilised former shipping containers, such as for geology and marine biology. An elevated room on top of the main block served as an operations facility from which all flights and field activities were handled. An ice cave near the station has a temperature of -20^oC and is used for storage of food.
The active science programme includes tagging of Orca where a transmitter is attached to the dorsal fin so location and depth data can be sent directly to Genoa University via the French Argos satellite system. One interesting fact was the Orca which feed on species of ice fish, penguins and seals can go as far as New Zealand and back in a month. One transmitter has been operating for three years. Experiments are also being undertaken with fish to examine the effect with changing pH on the condition of fish gonads from changing ocean acidification. Preliminary work is done at the station and the fish are then sent to Genoa. Another interesting project concerned minute fragments of glass ejected from molten rock of meteorites and collected from glacial ice and sandy areas. The meteorites are travelling so fast that they compress and heat the air ahead and this melts the rock with molten material spreading thousands of kilometres outwards.
At the conclusion of our tour, hospitable station staff invited us to afternoon tea in their recreation room where Agnes arranged for the stamping of our passports. By 4 p.m. we were back on the Spirit of Enderby and with departure from the area, Nathan advised that a helicopter pilot mentioned, after the visit to Inexpressible Island, the katabatic wind off the polar plateau was blowing at 40 knots.
It had been a truly outstanding day for our expedition. All thanks due to Nathan, Captain Dimitry, the leaders of Jang Bojo and Mario Zuccelli Stations and of course, we were blessed with excellent weather, for making the landings possible. After an splendid meal and a few minutes on deck enjoying the soft light illuminating dark blue tints on the mountains and ice, we all moved wearily to bed for a good rest.


Photo: A.Breniere


Photo: A.Breniere


Photo: A.Breniere

Day 16 Monday 26 January – Australia Day 
Ross Sea, Drygalski Ice Tongue
Noon position: Latitude 74^o 574.88’ South; Longitude 165^o 47.333’ East
Air temperature: -2^oC Water .9^oC
Pressure: 998hp
Last evening the Spirit of Enderby drifted without engines off the Drygalski Ice Tongue. Today we rose to a beautiful sunny morning and were greeted at breakfast by Don in his ‘Australian shirt’ with various motifs. These included cans of beer with unusual brands such as ‘Ukelele Lager’.  Allan appeared with a special head piece to which was attached a small umbrella displaying the Australian flag, while the flag was also worn as a cloak. Keri and Wendy each had the flag proudly displayed on their headbands. It was hard not to notice Australia Day!
At 8 a.m. we were in Latitude 75^o18.335’ South, Longitude 163^o59.80’ East. The air temperature on the bridge window recorded -4.5^oC although David’s thermometer indicated that in shade (meteorological records are normally taken with thermometers within a Stevenson screen) this was more likely a degree lower. The sea water was .8^oC. Before us was the edge of the great Drygalski Ice Tongue with its sculpted surface and various caves and fissures in shadow. In one place the surface snow covered slopes down towards the sea and as much as twice the height of the ice face visible above the sea surface was below. Excellent photographs were captured and Don gave an interesting commentary on the ice, in which he made reference to similar sites observed during his considerable experience of travel in Antarctica.
Of great interest was an extensive area of ice that appeared to have at least partially calved from the ice tongue and may have been grounded. This also appeared to be so from a satellite photograph received today. Because of the exceptional weather, we could see the primary sources of the ice. This had come from the David Glacier (named for the ‘Prof’ – Professor Edgeworth David, who with Mawson and Mackay, were first to reach the South Magnetic Pole in 1909) and also the Nansen Ice Sheet fed from behind by the Reeve Glacier. In the Reeve Glacier, we could clearly discern the Teall Nunatak (an Inuit term for a mountain protruding above ice), that was named for eminent geologist Sir Jethro Justinian Harris Teall, Director of the Geological Survey and Museum of Practical Geology London 1901-1913.
Beyond these glaciers was the Prince Albert Mountain Range. Don and David, who like Nathan, have enjoyed numerous visits to the region, had never enjoyed such good viewing of the Drygalski Ice Tongue. The morning will certainly be a memorable highlight of our time in Terra Nova Bay and Antarctica.
By 9.30 a.m. we had left Terra Nova Bay and were heading into the central Ross Sea. David’s lecture was temporarily postponed as by 10 a.m. the ship was rolling from the influence of katabatic wind off the polar plateau. This however did not prevent Frank from baking beautiful cinnamon rolls for lunch. He then went on deck to enjoy the freshness of a fine Antarctic morning and to photograph “the blue water and crystal clear mountains”. As we left Terra Nova Bay and proceeded north and then south, we avoided an area of pack ice and by now the katabatic air flow had dispersed. The mountains to starboard continued to look beautiful. On the deck Andre the Bosun assisted by Oleb a sailor, serviced the starboard anchor chain.
Our chefs today provided an excellent Australia Day lunch with steak, hot wholemeal bread rolls, salads and Frank’s special buns. By now we had lost the katabatic wind and the sea was calm again so David gave his ‘signature lecture’ to a good audience. The lecture dedicated to his friend the late Richard (Dick) Richards, last survivor of the expedition, was considered appropriate since we will soon visit the historic huts last occupied in the 1916-1917 summer. It began with him singing the first few lines of ‘Walzing Matilda’ which the audience joined in. He said four Australians lived in the Ross Island huts erected by Scott (1902), Shackleton (1908) and Scott (1911). We look forward to visiting some of these huts and although the Ross Sea party was the main focus, reference was also made to the Weddell Sea party led by Shackleton, which had hoped to make the first crossing of Antarctica during the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition 1914-1916. Although Shackleton failed in this venture, he saved all his men whereas the Ross Sea party, who laid the crucial depots for Shackleton, lost three of their number. David considered it unlikely that Shackleton would have achieved his goal.
The afternoon continued to be fine and during a spell of travel through pack ice, Steve reported seeing Snow Petrels, Wilson’s Storm Petrels, South Polar Skua, Adelie Penguins and an Emperor Penguin. A Crab Eater Seal was also seen and at 4.30 p.m. as we headed in an easterly direction, the south end of Coulman Island was seen on the port horizon. Coulman Island was named by James Clark Ross in 1841 for his father-in-law Thomas Coulman. The island is 4.8 km long and the highest point is 1998m (6555ft).
Many of us returned to the lecture room to view the excellent production entitled ‘Ice Bird’ which covers the life history of the Adelie Penguin and answered many of our questions. Although produced some years ago, the film is still well worth viewing. Before the bar opened at 6 p.m. all 21 Australians stood in the bow for a team photograph by the three photographers standing on a hatch cover. By the end of the day we were all fairly tired and with the possibility of an early morning landing at Franklin Island, most of us decided some sleep was in order.

Day 17 Tuesday 27 January 
Ross Sea, Franklin Island, McMurdo Sound, Cape Evans 
Noon position: Latitude 76^o 35.5’ South; Longitude 167^o59.78’ East
Air temperature: 4^oC Water -1.8^oC
Pressure: 953hp
147 years ago this day, James Clark Ross discovered Franklin Island, Mounts Erebus and Terror
At 2.40 a.m. Agnes woke us with an announcement that we would indeed be landing on Franklin Island and weather conditions were perfect. We had been through a little ice in the night and this meant a change in course. The staff had earlier checked the suitability for a landing on the island and at 3 a.m. Nathan assembled us in the lecture room for a briefing. David arrived in full rig for a landing prompting Nathan to ask “Are you going somewhere David?” We were then told by Nathan that today would be ‘Adelie overload’. We were soon washing our boots and by 3.30 a.m. the landing was underway with all passengers going ashore. It was a beautiful crisp morning, with a little cloud and numerous Adelie penguins swimming near the ship.
On the horizon in the distance was from the left, the dormant volcano Mt. Terror (3230m) and the active volcano Mt. Erebus (3795m) both on Ross Island and named in 1841 by James Clark Ross, after his two expedition ships. Further to the west was Mt. Discovery (2680m) named for Scott’s ship during the National Antarctic (Discovery) Expedition 1901-1904. Franklin Island at Latitude 76^o05.4’ South, Longitude 168^o19’East, was also named by Ross in 1841 to recognise Sir John Franklin, the noted Arctic explorer, who was at the time Governor of Van Diemen’s Land (Tasmania) and had entertained the expedition on its way south from Hobart in 1840. The island is volcanic in origin and has an ice cap over much of its summit.
The beach chosen for our landing consists of old beach ridges (with swales or low areas between) which rise in height to the south and is known technically as a cuspate foreland. Chris, one of two geologists in our group, noticed the basalt was rich in the mineral olivine. On the beach ridges of rounded basalt pebbles and cobbles, the large Adelie penguin colony has become established and some penguins had even moved to the high areas of talus on the slopes below the summit of the island. Ridley Beach at Cape Adare is similar although on a much bigger scale. To assist us with our landing, Nathan had organised a series of steps up the ice foot, along with a rope to help gain the level surface on top. As we landed we received a short briefing from Bob on where we could go and reminded us of the five metre rule for all wildlife.
We were soon enjoying the many antics of life in a large penguin colony. Downy chicks were chasing parents and demanding a meal, which we observed being given; other penguins were sleeping and there was a continual sound accompanied by the strong odour that is present in these places. South Polar Skuas hovered in close vicinity to nest sites, which is why they are often called the buccaneers of the south. They were always vigilant and prepared to take advantage of any chick or even adult that strayed beyond the relative security of numbers. Nathan said when they inspected the site for landing, around 35 skuas were seen. Off-shore scores of birds were ‘porpoising’ and feeding and at least one Leopard Seal was seen cruising close to the shore, extending its head above the water from time to time to observe the penguins gathered along the edge of the ice foot. We also enjoyed seeing penguins leap from the water and displaying their shiny wet plumage. Small groups and lesser numbers of penguins were making a continual procession from the colony to the ice foot with younger birds emitting guttural sounds and the occasional “aark”. If for some reason we became too close to a younger bird, it would emit a deep growling sound.
Near the southern end of the ice foot Weddell Seals could be seen amongst huge boulders of ice thrown up by waves. These were festooned with long icicles on the lower surfaces as they melted and also of interest were the well-worn tracks made by penguins as they commuted between the colony and sea.
The first Zodiac returned to the ship at 5.30 a.m. and by 7 a.m. we were all back aboard enjoying a hearty breakfast. Although contested at the time, Don considered David had taken his slice of toast. This heinous crime was denied and the only witness was Agnes who could not recall Don putting the toast in the toaster. Don who then ended up with David’s well toasted slice of toast, decided as a matter of principle to then retain this along with a second slice to have with cheese for his morning tea. The ship now continued on course for Ross Island with the first waypoint being Cape Bird 128 km away. Many of us decided to have some shut-eye, however Samuel announced that a beautiful tabular ice berg and a Minke Whale were nearby. Those who got up to view this spectacle were rewarded with a fantastic iceberg on a very calm sea. We also had a good view of the north end of Franklin Island before most of us returned to our bunks. At noon some of us rallied and were on the bridge to observe the magnificent panorama before us. Away to port was Cape Crozier then westward, Mt Terror, Mt Terra Nova (2130m) which we had not observed from Franklin Island then Mt Bird (1800m) on Ross Island. Ahead was Beaufort Island, also with a penguin colony on the south end. The sea was very calm and lunch with fish cakes, garlic chicken legs and potato salad, followed by an excellent cake with chocolate topping was good fuel for our next landing.
Samuel announced over lunch that it was 147 years ago to the day that James Clark Ross discovered and landed on Franklin Island and Mounts Erebus and Terror. He wrote “some land which had been in sight since the preceding noon, and which we called the ‘high Island’; it proved to be a mountain twelve thousand four hundred feet in elevation above the level of the sea, emitting flame and smoke in great profusion.”
The 21 year old botanist Joseph Hooker referred to Mt. Erebus as “a fine volcano spouting fire and smoke” while the ship’s blacksmith commented “this splendid burning mountain was truly an imposing sight”.
At 3.30 p.m. we had rounded Cape Bird with an excellent view of the ice cliffs and Adelie Penguin colony. We could also see the green huts of the New Zealand research field station, known as the Harrison Laboratory. Beside the penguin colony the ice cap extended down to the sea and had a high cliff.  We now slowly worked our way along the side of Ross Island with excellent views of the Shell Glacier, Quaternary Icefall and the crevassed slopes that Mackintosh and McGillon had crossed in 1908. We passed Horseshoe Bay followed by Cape Royds itself and had a glimpse of Shackleton’s hut. Dominating the skyline to port was the impressive bulk of Mt. Erebus.
The wind was really blowing now and the sea rather rough, so plans for a landing were postponed until better conditions prevailed. We then continued to Cape Evans and the captain anchored the ship in 60m of water directly opposite Scott’s 1910-13 winter quarters hut. Other huts we could see were the refuge huts near Cape Evans itself and those of the Antarctic Heritage Trust near Scott’s hut. Nathan called us to a briefing at 7.10 p.m. where he informed us of the visiting guidelines for entry to ASPA (Antarctic Specially Protected Area No. 155). After dinner the landing got underway at 9 p.m. with Derek having the honour of being first to enter the hut, his prize for winning the iceberg spotting competition.
After landing near the Antarctic Heritage Trust containers, we walked along the beach to Scott’s hut and were amazed at the many interesting fragmented artefacts of various materials, in the grey Kenyte scoria around the hut. Interesting artefacts such as parts for the tracks of Scott’s three Wolsely motor tractors and a pony sledge were beside the hut, as were reels of corroding aluminium telephone wire used in 1911 and the small latrine hut in front of the stables.
Nathan and Bob had already unlocked the hut and placed boot brushes outside. This is important as scoria has been shown to damage the flooring. Inside David was already waiting to show us around and explain the many features of the hut erected in 1911 for Scott’s expedition and later occupied by stranded members of Shackleton’s Ross Sea party.
Most of us inspected the stables first and saw the small Shacklock stove modified for burning seal blubber and which Captain Lawrence Oates had used to heat mash for the ponies. The stables in the following year housed Indian mules and we saw some of the names such as Abdulla and Pigaree stencilled on the hut wall. When the Ross Sea party was in residence in 1915-1917, the stables also became a garage for the motor tractor and a cache of Emperor Penguin bodies was also seen along with pony and mule feed boxes and bamboo snow shoes.
Only 12 of us including the guide were permitted to be in the hut at any one time and on entering, we soon saw as David suggested, that it was like an Edwardian time capsule. At first we were speechless and reverently walked about taking care to keep a safe distance from the artefacts, as David spoke of the former occupants who have long since passed away. We saw the bed occupied by Scott and later by Mackintosh the leader of the Ross Sea party then following his death, by Dick Richards when he was ill. The acetylene lighting system, Ponting’s photographic darkroom and the science laboratory were all of interest not only to us but also some of the crew.
After our time in the hut each of us left retaining our own impression of what we were most privileged to view. Some felt the presence of Scott and his men. Many of us absorbed with our thoughts, then walked about the surroundings and viewed a dog skeleton, the memorial cross on Wind Vane Hill and other points of interest, including Mt Erebus dominating the view in one direction and various islands in the vicinity. By now the sea had quietened down and most of us were back aboard before midnight.


Photo: S.Blanc

Day 18 Wednesday 28 January 
McMurdo Sound. Cape Royds, Ice edge, Furthest South
Noon position: Latitude 77^o 31.5’ South; Longitude 166^o 04.2’ East
Air temperature: 1^oC Water 1^oC
Pressure: 996hp
During the night the Captain took the Spirit of Enderby on a course with conditions checked by Nathan every two hours. We had a leisurely 8 a.m. breakfast and then assembled in the lecture room for a briefing concerning a potential landing at Cape Royds. This duly got under way by 9 a.m. and boots, cameras, clothing and packs were all discussed as wave splash was expected.
We landed on what is known as Black Sand Beach which has very little of the ice foot left and once ashore most of us changed from our rubber gumboots to hiking boots or walking shoes. Before setting out, David who would again be our guide in Ernest Shackleton’s hut erected in 1908, gave us a short talk on the many features of interest surrounding the hut, including the pony stables, garage for the 9-12 hp Arrol Johnston motor car and the various caches of stores, along with comments on some of the interesting geology we would see.
The group set off over an undulating volcanic ‘moonscape’. Rocks containing feldspar crystals sparkled in the sun, some ‘pillow lavas’ that had erupted under water and numerous granite and other ‘erratics’ being rocks which had been deposited by advancing ice, then left perhaps 10,000 years ago when the ice receded. The morning was beautiful and during our 20-30 minute walk, we had excellent views of Mt Erebus with a wisp of smoke being emitted from the crater and of the Transantarctic Mountains across McMurdo Sound. It was a most stimulating walk. We soon reached a valley then headed down to the small hut restored and cared for by the Antarctic Heritage Trust.
Our New Zealand Government Representative Bob along with Nathan placed outside a frame with boot cleaning brushes from which we walked onto a strip of vinyl.  This ensured we did not take gravel into the hut and further damage the floor. Only eight were allowed in the hut at any one time and of course everyone wanted to see Shackleton’s signature, his cubicle and to know where the whiskey and brandy was stored. David explained some of the activities that went on within the hut, where everybody slept and we were amazed at the extraordinary selection of food – particularly the canned meats and pates. We recognised brands of products familiar to us including Wiltshire hams and Colmans baking powder which are still being produced.  Other products such as Capt. Cookesley’s Consolidated Pea Soup described as ‘flesh forming [and] for the soldier, sailor, explorer and travelling’ were unfamiliar. The Price’s candles labelled as ‘expressly for hot climates’ caused amusement. We had enjoyed our excursion immensely and many preferred Shackleton’s hut as it was smaller, more compact and some considered very orderly.
Near the hut the Adelie Penguins were well advanced with their moulting and many of us walked about the perimeter of the ASPA. Soon we were retracing our steps and by noon most of us were on board and had the thrill of viewing pods of Orca and Minke Whales as we moved along the ice edge. Those with an interest in the various landforms of the region thought the panorama from Castle Rock to Observation Hill, then of White Island, Black Island, Mount Discovery and across to the Royal Society Mountain range outstanding. The highest peak on this range, Mt Lister (4025m), was named for Lord Josef President of the Royal Society London 1895-1900.
About 5.30 p.m. we also had a great view of the USCGC Polar Star WAGB 10 icebreaker as it departed from the shipping channel recently cut and passed by with Mt. Erebus providing a great backdrop. The icebreaker which has a sister ship USCGC Polar SeaWAGB 11 had undergone a major refit. The ship is 400ft long, has two helicopters and is powered by six diesel electric railway engines and three gas turbines which can produce 60,000 shaft hp. At 6.20 p.m. we attained our most southerly point for the expedition. This was 77^o48’ South 166^o06’East. Before dinner however a few of us were treated to the magnificent sight of 10-12 Orca all at the same time ‘spy-hopping’ beside the ice edge.
After an excellent meal, the ship was placed close to the ice edge and many of us took the opportunity to ride a few metres in a Zodiac to the ice. Here Agnes with help from the kitchen, Don, Bob and others, had a table set up on drums with hot cocoa and cake. We had a wonderful time strolling about the ice at leisure and some of us took part in a soccer match with three members of the crew. On the passenger side two players, Robbie and Robin, each managed to kick the ball with Robin managing to score a goal. After this the Russian crew team kicked a goal and another was declared then disallowed and considered a foul. In the end there was no agreed outcome, although the passengers considered they had won the game by one goal. It was an enjoyable diversion even though there were no goal posts at the start of the game and the attention of players occasionally wandered owing to the ball nearing the large spectators on ice edge – namely Orca Whales.
There was also a great opportunity to photograph the Spirit of Enderby with Mt. Erebus in the background, to enjoy wind patterns on the snow and admire the soft Antarctic evening as the sun slowly set over the Royal Society Range. Many of us also spent time observing a pod of Orca with one or two in their midst ‘spy-hopping’. Understandably a group of Adelie Penguins kept their distance until after the fine Orca display when the pod, which was perhaps the same one we had seen earlier, left us.
Around 11 p.m. those still out along the ice edge saw another Orca display and a large male surfaced right beside Don’s Zodiac. A little later several of us participated in an invigorating ‘Polar Plunge’ held off the Zodiac landing platform. Nathan supervised the activity which was a lot of fun with support from those watching from decks above. Nancy even wore a penguin suit and was briefly concerned that she had let go of the rope. She said she was surprised how salty the water was.

Photo: S.Blanc


Photo: S.Blanc

Day 19 Thursday 29 January 
McMurdo Sound. Cape Evans, Zodiac cruise, Ross Ice Shelf, Ross Sea
Noon position: Latitude 77^o38.04’ South; Longitude 166^o 24.20’ East
Air temperature: 4^oC Water +0.8^oC
Pressure: 970hp
During the night we moved back to Cape Evans and this morning we got up to a beautiful sunny day with a calm sea. Nathan announced that for those who wished, a further visit could be made to Scott’ hut and many took the advantage to retake or obtain further photographs of the hut and surroundings. David was again in the hut to explain various aspects and later he too was able to walk around the ASPA when many interesting things were found.
This began with the second anchor from the Aurora which appeared to have only been exposed today (it was previous covered by snow); the entrance to the former ice cave used for gravity observations by Charles (later Sir) Wright in 1911 (next year he did his observations within Ponting’s darkroom where a hole was cut in the floor and a large rock placed); the side from one of the crates which a motor-sledge had been transported in and a small window in the side of the entrance to the Officer’s end of the latrines. 
We were all back aboard by 11 a.m. and soon after had the opportunity to enjoy what turned out to be an amazing Zodiac cruise along the ice edge from near Cape Evans to where it was joined to Inaccessible Island. The bulk of us on board set off around the rocky point of Cape Evans and then had a great ride around four grounded ice bergs after which, we continued to the edge of the fast sea ice with a large gathering of Adelie Penguins along the edge of the ice, only 40cms or less above the water. Many were swimming and others were clustered in a tightly packed group near the ice edge. David had an interesting moment when kneeling to photograph whales. A penguin leapt from the water, landed on the tube in front of him, looked at him briefly, then reversed sideways and backwards into the water.
It was not long before a whale blow indicated the penguins had company. Before long about six Minke Whales including at least two large animals were blowing and surfacing sometimes three at a time. Nathan and Don had outstanding albeit sudden views, of a large whale that surfaced within five metres of their boats. We spent some time enjoying the once in a lifetime chance to observe these huge creatures at such close quarters and many photographs were taken. A Weddell Seal with blue tags on the hind flippers was also seen nearby.
From here we reluctantly began our journey back as a Borek Air Twin Otter aircraft made its descent to the runway. During the cruise we had excellent views of all the Dellbridge Islands (Inaccessible, Tent, Big Razor back and Little Razorback) named by Scott during his 1901-1904 expedition, for James H. Dellbridge the Second Engineer; the Erebus Icefall and a distant view of Turk’s Head and the 10km long Erebus Glacier Tongue. We could also see the direct route taken by heroic-era sledging parties from Cape Evans or Hut Point over a century ago.
We now followed the ice edge around to Inexpressible Island where there was an opportunity to enjoy the yellow, red and black volcanic rocks and also observe a solitary Emperor Penguin. From here we returned via the icebergs to secure some nice photographs of icicles and were back on the ship by 1 p.m. Frank meanwhile had prepared a superb lunch of chicken korma with rice and naan bread.
As we began our journey back along the Ross Island coast, past Cape Royds and the glorious landscape below Mt Erebus, plans were made for a landing at the Cape Bird Adelie Penguin colony which has about 30,000 birds. Unfortunately however the local wind picked up and the landing party that had checked the site retreated when waves became larger than hoped for. The party had an interesting ride back to the ship and after loading the two Zodiacs on board, we continued around Cape Bird on our 60 nautical mile journey towards the Ross Ice Shelf.
The weather continues to hold and the evening today was especially beautiful. As we journeyed along the Ross Island coast over a calm sea, we had excellent views of Mts. Everest, Terra Nova and Terror with their slopes of snow and ice in the beautiful evening light. One could see the slope at the back of Lewis Bay where the Air New Zealand ended its DC10 flight around 500m above sea level, on 28 November 1979. The polar landscape continued to keep us spellbound and many took the advantage after dinner of viewing the panorama to starboard.
Following dinner, Nathan assembled us in the lecture room to convey plans for the remainder of our time in Antarctica. The latest ice map had been received and with nearly 352 nautical miles to go to Cape Adare, we hope to spend time in that region. Most of us snatched a little sleep before Nathan roused us with an announcement shortly before midnight, that we were approaching the Ross Ice Shelf. This vast feature of floating ice about the size of France and explained by Samuel, has a front edge a staggering 800 km long along its seaward face and 750 km back towards its source; the giant glaciers of the Transantarctic Mountains. It varies in in thickness from around 330m to 700m and has only 1/7^th of the ice above the waterline. At our point, Don using a sextant obtained one estimate of 30m above the sea.
When James Clark Ross discovered the ice shelf in January 1841 he wrote “…a perpendicular cliff of ice between one hundred and fifty feet and two hundred feet above the sea, [was] perfectly flat and level at the top and without any fissures on its seaward face”. Ross also stated “There is no more chance of sailing through that than through the cliffs of Dover.” Decades later, the Ross Ice Shelf attracted explorers of the famed ‘heroic-era’ along with later men such as Admiral Byrd’s expeditions. Although the Spirit of Enderbyhas a good vantage point on the ‘monkey’ or ‘flying’ deck above the bridge, we were still well below the top of the ice face. We were amazed at the overall beauty of the feature with the surface appearing as if sculpted by an artist, while below a wave-cut indentation emitted a sucking sound from the waves.  An overhang had the shape of a ships bow and places where shadow was created were beautiful shades of turquoise. High above three Antarctic Skuas were almost motionless as they took advantage of the cool wind and Bob our New Zealand representative, photographed one skua that even attempted to land on the point of a radio aerial. Soon it was time to return to the cabin. We left Latitude 77^o24.472’ South, Longitude 170^o13.070’ East and turned north towards Cape Adare.

Day 20 Friday 30 January 
Ross Sea
Noon position: Latitude 75^o19.4’ South; Longitude 171^o42.26’ East
Air temperature: 0^oC Water -1.8^oC
Pressure: 930hp
As each day goes by we cannot believe our good fortune with such fine weather and with it calm seas. Most of us slept well and Nathan advised we have an ETA of about 8.30 a.m. at the ice edge off the Adare Peninsula.
Don began proceedings for the day with an inspirational presentation compiled from analogue video shot in Antarctica. Entitled ‘Two Below Zero’, the documentary told the story of the year Don and Margie had spent at Cape Denison in 1995. Many of their experiences were no different to some documented in diaries of early explorers. We had considerable admiration for their achievement and also the way in which the expedition had been planned including numerous observations undertaken for Australia’s Antarctic Division at Kingston Tasmania and more importantly the emergency plan should anything go wrong. ‘Two Below Zero’ can be downloaded off YouTube from the web site www.mcintyreadventure.com
Before lunch the 6^th part of the series on Scott and Amundsen was screened and attracted a good audience. Now we have visited Scott’s hut at Cape Evans, the series will enable us to have a better understanding of Scott’s last expedition. By 12.30 p.m. the day continued to be fine with a calm sea and bright sun and very little cloud. We were over 530m of water and doing a comfortable 12.4 knots on both engines. After a leisurely lunch with excellent fresh fruit slice, most of us rested or enjoyed the fresh air on deck.
At 3 p.m. David gave the presentation ‘Preserving Icons of Exploration’ which focused on historic site conservation and was of particular interest since we have been able to visit and see the fruits of labour for Shackleton’s hut at Cape Royds and Scott’s hut at Cape Evans on Ross Island. The work began in 1957 and was accelerated by a major restoration programme in 1960-1965 followed by volunteers from the New Zealand Antarctic Society in 1969 and has continued under the auspices of the Antarctic Heritage Trust.
Apart for a solitary iceberg seen this afternoon at Latitude 74^o17.887’ South Longitude 172^o18,914’ East, Steve mentioned that the only birds sighted were three Wilson’s Storm Petrels and one South Polar Skua. At 5.30 p.m. Nathan gave a lecture which outlined the physical aspects of the Spirit of Enderby including the vessel’s history, details of its construction and management by Heritage Expeditions and even of the food expected to be consumed by the close of our expedition. The very impressive numbers included 2,500 eggs at 80 per day and 300 kg of ‘spuds’ (potatoes) from which 7,200 meals would be cooked. Even beer would amount to 520 cans. The lecture closed with comments on requirements concerning reports and the wonderful long service by many staff members including Natalia who has served on the vessel for 11 years and Andre who has worked his way up from sailor to carpenter and now has the rank of Bosun.
Today closed with an excellent dinner consisting of a fine entre of salmon and salad, a main of either Blue cod or slowly roasted beef followed by a New York style cheese cake. It will be difficult coming down to earth when we return home! By evening the sea had returned to calm conditions and many of us decided to have an early night. Soon we will return to the pack ice, through which we had a couple of weeks ago entered Antarctica and in doing so, achieved a goal. By 10.30 p.m. small pieces of ice were about the ship.

Day 21 Saturday 31 January 
Ross Sea. Admiralty Mountains, Cape McCormick, Downshire Cliffs, Adare Peninsula, Cape Adare
Noon position: Latitude 71^o20.1061’ South; Longitude 170^o 41.6233 ’ East
Air temperature: -1^oC Water 0^oC
Pressure: 990hp
The morning began with calm seas, an overcast sky and some fog. The water was clear of ice and light powdery snow was falling with an air temperature of just under 3^oC. By 9 a.m. we were nearing the Adare Peninsula of black volcanic basalt along with the Downshire Cliffs on the coastal edge.  The cliffs were named by Ross in 1841 for the Marquis Downshire. To the south lay the Fenwick Ice Piedmont and Cape McCormick. The sea remained ice free and when cloud lifted, we had an excellent view of three peaks on the Admiralty Range. These were Mt. Minto (4165m) named by Ross for the Earl of Minto, then First Sea Lord of the Admiralty, an unnamed peak, then Mt Adam (4009m), named after Vice Admiral Sir Charles Adam, a senior naval Lord of the Admiralty. Mt. Minto was first climbed on an Australian expedition led by noted mountaineer Greg Mortimer. A further high peak, Mt. Sabine (3714m) named by Ross after Lt. Col. Sabine of the Royal Artillery and Foreign Secretary for the Royal Society, can be seen when approaching the Ross Sea from the north and was a landmark for ‘heroic-era’ expeditions.
Cape Adare on the end of the Adare Peninsula and marking the western entrance to the Ross Sea, was yet another landform named by Ross. This was for his friend Viscount Adare, MP for Glamorganshire in the UK. The highest point on the peninsula is Hanson Peak (1255m) named by a New Zealand Alpine Club expedition and commemorates 28 year old Norwegian biologist Nicolai Hanson, who died during Carsten Borchgrevink’s British Antarctic (Southern Cross) Expedition 1898-1900. By 10 a.m. as we steadily made our way towards the cape, the beginnings of a southerly swell were felt, with the Spirit of Enderby rolling slightly. We made a slight course change and received waves and scattered pieces of ice, off the port bow. This did not deter many of us from being on the bridge and enjoying the coastal panorama, with the reddish to yellow-brown and dark grey rocks on the Adare Peninsula clearly visible.  It was however mostly cloudy with just occasional spells of blue sky and during the morning Steve observed a large flock of Antarctic Petrels.
By late morning we were plugging though scattered floes and nearing Cape Adare. There was an element of excitement on board, with fingers crossed in anticipation that we may make a landing. Here men including Carsten Borchgrevink, had landed from Henryk Bull’s whaling ship Antarctic in January 1895, this being one of the first early landings made in Antarctica. Borchgrevink had then returned in 1899 to lead the first party that spent a winter on the continent. The bird watching enthusiasts were as usual on the bow and in addition to a few skuas, a Crab Eater Seal and three Minke Whales were also seen. Off the end of Cape Adare and further beyond, we counted around 30 icebergs, many of which were grounded, as the Bridge chart indicated the water was only 100-150m deep.
Following a discussion with Nathan, the Captain carefully took the Spirit of Enderby, around the end of Cape Adare where the one remaining rock stack of the former ‘Two Sisters’, ‘Gertrude’ and ‘Rose’, stood although it is now on a lean. The ship then rounded Von Tunzelman Point named after Alexander von Tunzelman who landed here in 1895 and claimed till his dying day that he was the first ashore. The point marks the division between the north and south areas of Ridley Beach. The beach was named as such by Borchgrevink after his mother’s maiden name. Around 2 p.m. Nathan, our New Zealand Government Representative Bob and Samuel, made the customary initial reconnaissance by Zodiac to locate a suitable landing place. There were only two options, as swell from the fast moving Robertson Bay current and the belt of winter push ice and later ice along both beaches, limited places for access. A briefing was then held and the landing was underway by 4 p.m. We had no wind and enjoyed a calm sea, with conditions improving as the afternoon wore on.
After one group had been put ashore, Don was returning to the ship by Zodiac when he saw two Leopard Seals taking Adelie Penguins. Three headless corpses were left floating in the water where presumably the seals would later return for their meal. The landing continued until 7 p.m. and there was much for us to enjoy. Creches of Adelie Penguins with many in down stood in huddled groups while others chased a parent demanding food. A number of freshly killed chicks were evidence of skua predation and Steve estimated 100+ skuas were present in the area. Other predatory birds were 15 Giant Petrels including five White Morphs on the end of von Tunzelman Point. Meanwhile in the background, there was the continued incessant chatter of adults. We continued to carefully observe the five metre rule and all obtained further photographs for our expedition record.
In Borchgrevink’s living hut, David who has spent over two months here on three expeditions (1981–2013) undertaking remedial conservation and scientific observations, pointed out features of interest. With only four in total permitted to be in the hut at any one time, some also of us enjoyed a second inspection. We appreciated the confined area with bunks (two high) for the ten men and saw where Colbeck set fire to his curtain and nearly burned the hut down; the bunk where the 28 year-old Norwegian biologist Nicolai Hanson had died; the cramped galley area with stove and the beautiful pencil drawing above the bunk of scientific assistant Norwegian Kolbein Ellifsen (23) who slept above assistant zoologist and Canadian Hugh Evans (24) the last surviving member of the expedition who retired in Vermilion Alberta.
Kolbein expressing his sentimental feeling for home for a lady friend, perhaps his wife or a family member, wrote in Norwegian
Alle klokker ringer fjernt                                     All the bells ring far away
Bud fra gamle dage                                           With chimes gone by
Alle blomster venfer sig                                     All the flowers turn their heads
Og ser med suk tilbage                                      To look back with a sigh
Soon with support from Norway, major restoration will be commenced by the Antarctic Heritage Trust on these huts. The ruins of the Scott Northern party hut (1911) were also seen with the base of Campbell’s chart table still in-situ. The remains of this hut were overwhelmed by penguins. The attractive book entitled ‘That First Antarctic Winter’ by Janet Crawford and David Harrowfield was published in 1998 to mark the centenary of the expedition. This publication is available from Heritage Expeditions.
Unfortunately time did not permit an ascent of the steep track of loose and frozen pebbles along with rock bluffs up the 300m cliff behind Ridley Beach to view Hanson’s grave. This is located in roughly the centre of the of the west sloping peninsula and is often difficult to find. Hanson was buried here at his request and David was last there in 1990 when he made numerous climbs to check his wind recording anemometer. With the aid of Nancy’s Swarovski telescope from the deck of the ship, we were able to see an automatic weather station placed on the peninsula above Ridley Beach.
This evening dinner which included tender belly pork, beef and desert of rice pudding with peach topping, was delayed until 8 p.m. After dinner we enjoyed cruising past the most spectacular icebergs we had seen during the expedition. One particularly huge tabular berg was surrounded by floes reflected in the still, inky-black to deep Prussian blue water of the Southern Ocean. Another berg of great interest had considerable gravel and large boulders on the top, which may have originated from glacial moraine. The Captain did a fine job ensuring that we not only cruised between two giant bergs, but also managed the fast currents. At this time the soft evening light was beautiful and many of us obtained a great photographic record of what was undoubtedly a major highlight of the expedition if not in our lives, but there was more to come. As the sun dropped below dark cloud and lower in the sky, the most wonderful light descended on the Admiralty Mountains. These were transformed into a pale, cold-looking and exquisite blue, with the sun reflected on the ocean between floes in Robertson Bay, transformed into a cloth of gold. Away to the west, the mountains merged into the Australian Antarctic Territory which makes up 40% of Antarctica and is the largest of the national claims in place although now frozen. Our view of this part of the beautiful and vast landscape of Antarctica which is twice as large as Australia will long be remembered “and so it should be” said Don our Australian lecturer and driver!
We had enjoyed yet another very special day and most of us were in the bunk well before midnight. About midnight the Polish 72ft Oyster Class, fibreglass yacht Kutharsis, which left Hobart a few days ago was sighted.

Photo: S.Blanc


Photo: A.Breniere

Day 22 Sunday 1 February 
Southern Ocean
Steve H. birthday celebrated
Noon position: Latitude 70^o 04.654’ South; Longitude 171^o 46.162’ East
Air temperature: -1^oC Water +1^oC
Pressure: 932hp
During the night we passed through a belt of pack ice with some large floes and this morning, the ice continued although this was beginning to open out and a slight swell was felt. We have now effectively left the Ross Sea region and Antarctica. There are three prominent islands named Sturge (in the south), Buckle and Sabrina (in the north), along with several smaller islands including the well-known Monolith. The islands were discovered by John Balleny on the sealer Eliza Scott in February 1839. They were named in his honour by Captain Beaufort Hydrographer to the Admiralty. A sister vessel the Sabrina after which one of the islands is named was lost in a storm. Sabrina Island named after the sealer has a colony of chinstrap penguins and has been an ASPA since 1966.
At 10 a.m. our course was changed to a more north-west track and at 10.30 a.m. the final episode of the ‘Last Place on Earth’ was screened. This was attended by many who have carefully followed the series. This morning was spent quietly as we passed through occasional belts of ice floes and by noon we were moving at 9.1 knots over 1820m of water with to starboard the Adare Seamounts on the Southern Ocean floor. These ranged in height from 1420m to 1920m and are similar to mountains on land. By 2 p.m. we were near the edge of the pack ice and once clear of this turned to the west towards the Balleny Islands with 250-270 nautical miles to run. Scattered pieces of floes and small bergy bits were visible on a nice calm sea and the weather forecast suggested we may have a tail wind to Campbell Island.
Bird life sighted today included several Wilson’s Storm Petrels, one Snow Petrel, two South Polar Skuas and a White Morph Giant Petrel. Four or five Crab Eater Seals were also sighted when in the ice, although others are likely to be seen in the vicinity of the Balleny Islands, along with Weddell seals. At 3 p.m. Samuel gave a lecture entitled ‘Icebergs, Cathedrals of Ice’. This excellent lecture was very timely given what we saw last evening.  Samuel began by referring to the three classes of ice – glaciers; sea ice and permafrost. He followed with reference to 14,000,000km² of ice in Antarctica, formation of ice, icebergs, ice shelves (Ross Ice Shelf covers 472,960km² with 70-80% floating), the reasons and rate of melting and drift of icebergs. Samuel concluded with discussion focused on 3% of the Earth having fresh water and the Frenchman George Moudin’s proposal to tow icebergs for fresh water. As always many questions resulted.
The final presentation of the day was the screening of ‘Solid water, Liquid rock’. This was another of Natural History New Zealand’s Antarctic Wild South series. An excellent film compiled by award winning photographers Mike Single and Max Quinn the documentary again extended our knowledge of where we have been in the last few days. In his evening message, Nathan said the present sea and weather conditions are the best he has enjoyed in the Southern Ocean. We will continue our present course north until we are clear of the pack ice and then add a change to the west. An ETA of around 3.30-5.30 p.m. tomorrow is anticipated for arrival at the start of the Balleny Islands. Wildlife was pretty sparse today and with exception of species already mentioned. Others included Mottled Petrels, another Crab Eater Seal and this afternoon, two Minke Whales. After dinner the first three Antarctic Fulmars were sighted behind the ship.

Day 23 Monday 2 February 
Southern Ocean
Noon position: Latitude 66^o 39.6934’ South; Longitude 167^o 56.5901’ East
Air temperature: 0^oC Water 0.7^oC
Pressure: 980hp
Early this morning we were experiencing an easterly swell and with it fog and light snow with the latter persisting for much of the day. Birds sighted during the morning were Antarctic and Wilson’s Storm Petrels, Antarctic Prions and a raft of six Antarctic Fulmars. At this stage we were at the bottom of a low and would probably pass the Balleny Islands then continue northwards to Campbell Island. At 10.15 a.m. we assembled in the lecture room where David introduced the film ‘Race to the Pole’ with Don adding comments relating to pioneer aviator Harold Getty of Tasmania who with a Vega aircraft had contributed to the development of aerial navigation. The film focused on Admiral Richard Evelyn Byrd’s first Antarctic expedition in 1928-1930, when Byrd’s Station ‘Little America 1’ was established on the Ross Ice Shelf. From Little America, Byrd accompanied by pilot Bernt Balchen, relief pilot and radio operator Harold June and photographer Ashly McKinley, completed the first flight to the vicinity of the Geographic South Pole on 28-29 November 1929. This was achieved in a Ford Trimotor aircraft taking 18 hours and covered 1600 miles. Byrd also took two further aircraft, 95 dogs including his own dog named Igloo and 50 men.
Late in the morning Steve saw what was thought to be a Sperm Whale from the Bridge, along with a flock of Antarctic Petrels, a Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Antarctic and Fairy Prions, Antarctic Fulmars, Wilson’s Storm Petrels and several Mottled Petrels. At 12.57 p.m. we again crossed the Antarctic Circle and at 1.30 p.m. enjoyed salads and excellent sausage rolls and vegetable fritters for lunch. Light snow continued to fall, the sea remained reasonably calm and we were moving at 11.8 knots planning to turn north when off the Balleny Seamounts with one only 60m deep. David gave his last Antarctic history lecture at 3 p.m. This was entitled ‘Douglas Mawson – A stalwart of the heroic-era: from the BAE 1907-1909 to ANARE (from) 1947’. Mawson who had served in Antarctica alongside his former Professor Edgeworth David, is known to most Australians. He has appeared on the A$100 bank note, enjoyed during his full life a prominent career in science and academia both as a field geologist, physicist, lecturer, administrator and supporter of ANARE.
Although reference had been made to Mawson’s participation in Antarctica during Shackleton’s  Nimrod 1907-1909 expedition, this was touched on again, followed by the two BANZARE (British Australia New Zealand Antarctic Research Expeditions) expeditions using Scott’s former ship Discovery in 1929-1933 and the development of the present ANARE (Australia National Antarctic Research Expeditions) from 1947 including the establishment of Mawson Station, the first base Australia had on the Antarctic Continent. Mawson was a pivotal figure in Australia’s claim of 47% of Antarctica. There was a good attendance and the usual lively discussion followed.
The final item in the programme for the day was a screening of ‘The Last Ocean’. This focused on the tooth-fish industry in the Ross Sea. Dissostichus mawsonii is named after Sir Douglas Mawson and is popularly termed the Giant Antarctic Cod. The fish is a member of the Family Nototheniidae and are termed Notothenioides. A similar species called the Patagonian Tooth-fish is caught by ships operating from South America. There is a need for greater knowledge of the physiology of the species and for creation of a Marine Reserve, which is being strongly promoted by New Zealand with support from other countries. Following the documentary we enjoyed a continuation of our usual pre-dinner gathering in the Bar/Library which gave an opportunity to continue discussion on the various activities of today.

Day 24 Tuesday 3 February 
Southern Ocean
Noon position: Latitude 62^o 32.0552’South; Longitude 166^o 29.7794’ East
Air temperature: 4^oC Water 0^oC
Pressure: 982hp
Several icebergs were still seen this morning even though we are progressing steadily north from latitude 63^o18’ South 166^o32’East. Outside the air temperature was a cool 1^oC and the water 2^oC. Samuel began the day with a lecture at 10 a.m. on a subject which is of great interest to him. Entitled ‘James Clark Ross - the greatest polar explorer?’, Samuel’s lecture focused on Ross’s career in the Arctic and Antarctic, briefly mentioned in David’s first lecture.
The well balanced lecture began with Ross having joined the Royal Navy when just 11 years old. He then had his first taste of Arctic travel at 18 with his uncle John Ross, Captain on the Isabella. James Ross went on to make many trips which included nine winters and 17 summers in the Arctic and three summers in the Antarctic. Samuel’s lecture was well researched and his use of early lithographs including maps and watercolour paintings along with the ability to present information by way of Mackintosh technology, kept us interested throughout. It was fitting that the lecture ended with a media release from YouTube, concerning a significant archaeological discovery on 9 September 2014, north of O’Reilly Island in the South Victoria Strait of Arctic Canada. Following the find on 1 September of further artefacts from Sir John Franklin’s ill-fated Northwest Passage Expedition of 1848 when all 128 men died, the remains of HMS Erebus were located on 9 September in just 11m of water. This was made possible by use of side-scan sonar and a remote submersible vehicle and there is now hope of finding HMS Terror. The Northwest Passage was first navigated by Antarctic veteran Roald Amundsen, on the 29 year old sloop Gjoa in 1902-1906 with the vessel now preserved with the Fram in Oslo. There is a dining plate from HMS Erebus on display in the Canterbury Museum in Christchurch. This was received by David from his friend, a direct descendant of Lieutenant Bird of the Erebus, the late Miss Betty Bird of Auckland. Betty also presented other artefacts to the Museum, including a gold snuff-box belonging to her great, great uncle.
At 11.30 a.m. we returned to the lecture room to view the documentary ‘Blackfish’, the name given by fishermen to the Orca. This focused on the catching of Orca with several then kept and later bred in captivity. Establishment in the United States of the corporate tourism facility Sea World, which has been very expensive with management issues, also provided rich financial rewards for the company. Unfortunately it has also cost the lives of two trainers. There is still much to learn about the biology and life of these amazing whales, which are best left in their natural habitat and is it not best to allow them to remain as such?
The sea remained calm during the morning and the day was sunny with scattered thin cloud as we continued towards Campbell Island. Birds recorded this morning included two Campbell Albatross and Cape Petrels. When on the bow, David and birders Steve and Paul were startled when the bow dipped before a wave and with a bang, water shot up the port anchor hawse pipe. On deck was deposited a live whelk-like gastropod, which they considered had been on the anchor since Robertson Bay. The mollusc was then consigned to the deep. By lunch time the sea had calmed and we enjoyed a very nice pasta dish. Snow fell during the afternoon.
At 3 p.m. Don entertained us in the lecture room with eight video clips. The programme began with an interesting discussion on China’s stations in Antarctica and on the country’s plans for their latest station in Terra Nova Bay. Two time lapse programmes on an aspect of Australia’s Antarctic resupply and the southern lights (Aurora Australis) followed; an interesting programme on King Crabs adjusting to the effect of rising ocean temperatures; footage by Frank Hurley of masts breaking on Shackleton’s domed ship Endurance followed by Mawson’s BANZARE expedition when Mawson fell from the monoplane being hoisted on board the Discovery; the collision of the Ady Gil with the Japanese whaling mother ship and finally, the rescue of French yachtsman Alain Delord, who was rescued by the Orion from the Southern Ocean.
At 5 p.m. the excellent Natural History New Zealand Wild South documentary entitled ‘Emperors of Antarctica’ was shown. This dealt with the life cycle of the Emperor Penguin and was filmed by Max Quinn during winter at the Cape Crozier colony on Ross Island.  Now that we have been fortunate to view Emperor Penguins including one at close quarters from the Zodiac, the programme had a special significance. Many of us were familiar with the Emperor that came ashore on a New Zealand beach and was dubbed ‘Happy Feet’. The penguin became a favourite on the world stage before being released in the Subantarctic south of New Zealand after recovery. James Cook saw the first Emperor Penguin and a century later when a naturalist was looking at the Cook expedition sketch, he realised that it was a different species to the King Penguin. James Clark Ross took four specimens to Britain.
The number of birds increased as we neared Campbell Island. A White-headed Petrel and a Grey-headed Albatross made an appearance and two whales, one of them a Minke clearly identified by the head were seen. Nathan predicted the swell would pick up overnight however in the morning the wind should drop back to the south-south-west. With the ship rolling most of us went early to the bunk and the night was noticeably darker.

Day 25 Wednesday 4 February 
Southern Ocean
Noon position: Latitude 57^o 52.6830’South; Longitude 166^o 30.7858’ East
Air temperature: 5^oC Water 7^oC
Pressure: 987hp
The ship rolled during the night and seas were still a little rough this morning. The day however was fine with a veil of thin cloud and occasional patches of blue and as predicted the swell had eased by late morning. At 10 a.m. David began the day’s programme with his lecture entitled ‘A Piece of Plastic – historical archaeology in Antarctica’. A history of work in the High Arctic and Antarctica was outlined, along with techniques applied by archaeologists from New Zealand, Australia and other countries, and what can be learned from the work. David stressed that once an artefact is moved it can never be placed exactly as it was before. An interesting selection of photographs included views of Cape Evans which we had not previously seen, along with artefacts excavated at Cape Adare in 1990.
The Sea Shop opened at 11.30, providing a final chance to take a memento home from the expedition and was followed at noon by a second screening of ‘The Last Ocean’. We heard today from the Last Ocean web site that New Zealand and the United States will continue to fight for establishment of a Marine Reserve in the Ross Sea. Australia however, has shown little support. Steve W. reported many birds were seen this morning and we are now well and truly in albatross territory. Of interest was the Antipodean Wanderer, Southern Royal Albatross, the Grey-back Storm Petrel and the Subantarctic Skua has returned. Later in the day a Snowy Albatross (White Wanderer) was seen and also an adult Grey-headed Albatross. Crew this morning sprayed a chemical over superstructure on the bow and after a short time this was hosed off, revealing gleaming white paintwork. At this time entry to the bow was prohibited for safety reasons however by lunch time, we again had access to the bow, from which Steve, Paul and others have done most of their birding.
The afternoon came and went quickly. The formal part began with an excellent lecture by Samuel called ‘Wintering over in Antarctica – 15 months at the French station Dumont d’Urville’. There was much interest in Samuel’s story which began with a history of France’s station including the cooperative venture with Italy at Concordia on the Polar Plateau, 1000 km from Dumont d’Urville. Samuel spoke of the banding of birds along with the attachment of small data loggers and for seals, more elaborate transmitters attached to 10 seals at the most. For the birders it was interesting to hear that the Antarctic or South Polar Skua migrates to north of Japan and some birds are nearly 20 years old. France which has banded birds since 1953 works closely with Australia on the project. The lecture concluded with an insight into life at the station and we could see why Samuel enjoyed his time there.
The final lecture ‘Who owns Antarctica?’ was given by Agnes. This well presented lecture which included excellent graphics began with a concise history of each claim and how this evolved. This was followed by details of the key Articles of the Treaty, followed by reference to SCAR (the Scientific Committee for Antarctic Research) and the various Conventions for the Conservation of Seals (1972), Conservation of Antarctic Marine Living Resources (1980) and the Protocol on Environmental protection or Madrid Protocol of 1991 which came into force in 1998. In 1959 twelve countries signed the Antarctic Treaty on 1 December 1959 which came into force on 23 June 1961. Since then the number of signatories has increased to 50 and this is made up of 28 Consultative Members and 22 countries with acceding status.
Following the lecture most of us assembled in the Bar/Library to participate in a quiz. Don was the compare and in a play-off, Don and Elizabeth won with 127 points out of 230 with the runner up, scoring 16. The prize was a bottle of wine and a copy of the Heritage Expeditions brochure. We had a course change at 7.05 p.m. and still had 245 nautical miles to run before Campbell Island. We were now being pushed along by a southerly with the wind expected to reach 30 knots in the night. Meanwhile the ship began to roll again from a south-west wind on the starboard quarter with wind speed likely to pick up during the night. There were a few vacancies at the dining tables this evening and many of us opted for an early night.

Day 26 Thursday 5 February 
Southern Ocean; Campbell Island
Noon position: Latitude 53^o 16.1291’South; Longitude 168^o 47.137’ East
Air temperature: 6^oC Water 10.3^oC
Pressure: 910hp
Allan and Lorraine’s Commitment Ceremony
Apart for the occasional roll, we had a good night’s rest, waking to a fine sunny morning with scattered cloud, a busy sea with 7-8m swells and a few white caps. At 8 a.m. the air temperature was a balmy 7^oC and the water now 10^oC. We were making good headway at a speed of nearly 13 knots and had 82 nautical miles to run to Campbell Island where our ETA was expected to be around 4 p.m.
In spite of a bumpy sea with the occasional roll by the ship, most of us attended Samuel’s final lecture on Antarctic seals, given at 10 a.m. This lecture was well supported with good photographs, many of these taken by Samuel. The lecture began with a brief overview of seals when differences and the biology and adaption of the two families, known as the Otaridae and Phocidae were carefully explained. Samuel then outlined the four Antarctic seals – Weddell, Crab Eater, Leopard and Ross with mention of the varied dentition linked to diet, securing of prey and for the male Weddell, keeping breathing holes open. This has led to starvation from the wearing down of teeth. The Ross seal is the smallest and least common of these seals. An enjoyable aspect of the lecture was hearing recordings of Weddell seals beneath and on the ice.
Following the lecture, we handed in our jackets which had served us well and soon after noon we attended a documentary on the re-discovery in 1975 of the Campbell Island Teal then thought to be extinct, on 26 hectare La Dent Island, by Rodney Russ who founded Heritage Expeditions. The island also has the endemic Campbell Island Shag and interesting botany including mega-herbs.
The many seabirds seen this morning included several species of albatross, three species of prion, all three species of storm petrels, Sooty Shearwaters and particularly interesting was the sighting of a Soft-plumed Petrel. Shona and Marion who often enjoy a few hours on the Bridge also sighted a pod of four Orca Whales. About 1.15 p.m. the island discovered by Captain Frederick Hasselburgh (or Hasselburg) of the sealing brig Perseverance in 1810, was sighted on the horizon. The 115km² island was discovered the same year as Macquarie Island by Hasselburgh and was named for his employers Robert Campbell & Co of Sydney. The weather can be summarised as cool, cloudy, wet and windy and only receives 650 hours of bright sunshine annually and less than one hour on 215 days (59%) of the year.
The day was fine above the lumpy sea; a pale cerulean blue sky prevailed with patches of grey strato-cumulus clouds. As we watched the landscape extend before our eyes, we could see great sheets of spray from waves breaking on steep rock faces. To port we had views of Jacquemart Island from which the Campbell Island Snipe moved to the tidal Six Foot Lake, then the main island and a volcanic rock stack (one of several) named Le Boote, along with Mt. Dumas (499m). These are just two of several localities with French names given at the time of the French Expedition which called here in 1873 and again in 1874, to observe the Transit of Venus. Many sea birds were soaring over the waves. Sightings included a Great Wanderer, Grey-headed and Black-browed Albatross, the Campbell Island Shag, Cape Petrel and Yellow-eyed Penguin.
The human history on the island focused on several early scientific Antarctic and Subantarctic expeditions, whaling, farming (initially 2000 Leicester-Merino sheep, 8 cattle and 2 horses), the WW2 Cape Expedition, former manned meteorological station (closed 1995 and replaced with an automated system) and pest eradication since 1990. Nathan advised that most people arrive here from the north rather than as we have from the far south. By 3.45 p.m we were entering Perseverance Harbour named after Hasselburgh’s ship. Erebus Point named by James Clark Ross, was to starboard then Davis Point near which is a colony of New Zealand Sea Lions. We enjoyed excellent views of rocky outcrops, vegetated lava flows, old glacial terraces, ice-moulded landforms and olive-green scrub extending from the water’s edge, merging with tussock higher up. Lava flows were also visible on wave washed cliffs and hillsides were clothed in tussock grass and Dracophyllum scrub.
The depth of water in the harbour ranged from 30-40m with 43m at the entrance. We were near our anchorage when rain followed by sleet and brief hail greeted us and at 4.15 p.m. with the southerly beating up the harbour, we anchored in 16m. Our position Latitude 52^o32.947’South and Longitude 169^o10.226’East.
Concerning the huts visible over the bow, from left we could see, the old meteorological balloon launching shed; behind the wharf the generator shed and behind on the ridge-line the New Zealand Meteorological Service automatic weather station with solar panels for charging batteries. Below at the water’s edge are the fuel and supply sheds, the now unusable crane and from here rail tracks lead up to the winch, main annex, behind the meteorology and DoC sheds, fridges and freezers, then the main accommodation annex. At the right-hand end is the DoC accommodation facility for science parties. Three outer huts are at North West Bay, Bull Rock colony with Grey-headed and Black-browed Albatrosses and at Six Foot Lake. Two now dilapidated coast watchers huts from the Cape Expedition were out of sight on Beeman Hill which rises from behind the main annex. The lookout hut is no longer visible and may have been dismantled or is obscured by vegetation.
After nearly five days at sea after Cape Adare, it was good to be in sheltered, calm, waters although Nathan pointed out that we had seen three of the four seasons, with the weather since our arrival. A raft of 40 Sooty Shearwaters was present and Nancy saw several penguins. The shearwaters amazed us with their flying as they came in at speed then peeled off in formation like fighter planes.
At 5 p.m. we attended a joyous ceremony in the port dining room. Here Allan and Lorraine from Australia pledged to continue already happy lives together. Nathan arranged the evening activities in order that all of us could gather to witness the Commitment Ceremony, at which David with a special tie featuring penguins played the role of Officiator. David made a brief speech after which he invited Allan and Lorraine to make their promises. Allan and Lorraine solemnly pledged to one another to maintain a life-long loving relationship and brass rings made by the Third Engineer and polished by Sergei the Third Officer, were produced on a red ‘velvet cushion’ held by Noelene. These were exchanged and then David said “I now pronounce you committed” which led to a few laughs from the audience. The waiting staff headed by Natalia had made a wonderful effort with white artificial flower sprays on dining tables and floral decorations in the area where the ceremony was held.  Frank had made a special cake which was decorated by Connor and a fine table cloth was placed on the floor for the ‘official party’. Our New Zealand Representative Lieutenant Ross Hickey was resplendent in full dress uniform, complete with miniature military medals. Agnes arranged an appropriate insert in the menu folder, while Samuel compiled the official photographic record. We all wished Allan and Lorraine many continued years of happiness and following extensive photography, Robbie presented the happy couple with a copy of ‘Galapagos of the Antarctic’ signed by everyone to mark the occasion.
At 5.50 p.m. and in preparation for our landing tomorrow morning, we assembled in the lecture room where Nathan gave an introduction to Campbell Island. He discussed the history, natural history including birds and plants along with other aspects that focused on the options for tomorrow and Saturday. By now the weather had cleared and the sun was shining. The bar opened at 6 p.m. and as expected following the Commitment Ceremony, there was much conviviality. Dinner was at the normal time of 7.30 p.m. however since this was a special occasion, each table had a bottle of sparkling wine, adorned with a ribbon Irene had created in honour of the occasion. After a sumptuous meal with a main of  chicken breast on couscous, or venison on mashed potato, a cheese cake desert was served followed by a piece of Allan and Lorraine’s special cake.
In anticipation of a big day tomorrow, most of us retired early.

Day 27 Friday 6 February. Waitangi Day, New Zealand. 
Campbell Island
Noon position: Latitude 52^o 33.0572’South; Longitude 169^o 09.5375’ East
Air temperature: 8^oC Water 9.7^oC
Pressure: 1001hp
It was good to be on calm waters again and during the evening the ship was repositioned. Most of us slept well, however this morning a similar frontal system to that experienced on arrival yesterday, came through with a good rain shower, followed by sleet and hail which whitened the tops around Perseverence Harbour.  We organised our gear and a cut lunch for the day out and the two walks planned. The North-west Bay group set out at 9.15 a.m. on their 12km walk. Those of us heading on the boardwalk for Col Lyall began our departure at 10, with staff member Agnes, followed by a second group with David and the final group with Samuel.
Although there was intermittent rain and light snow showers, those of us who hiked to Col Lyall and on the point where we could look down to North West Bay, thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Several of us were fortunate to see a pair of Campbell Island Snipe, one of which may have been a chick and there were also sightings of a Campbell Island Teal which Ginny thought may have been feeding in seaweed. Robbie saw an adult teal with a ‘duckling’. Several of the exceedingly inquisitive and tame Campbell Island Pipits were also seen. We followed the boardwalk through Dracophyllum scoparium scrub, around the side of volcanic Beeman Hill (187m) and noticed the WW2 coast watcher huts in a valley inland from Tucker Cove. Although Pleurophyllum hookeri, Anisotome latifolia and Bulbanella rossii had died off, we had excellent viewing of the purple daisy Pleurophyllum speciosum. Smaller plants such as gentians including the purple Gentiana cerina and the green orchid possibly Thelymitra, were not open, but we were still able to obtain good photographs.
After an hour or so, we reached the summit and were thrilled to see Southern Royal Albatross at close quarters on their elevated nests. Some of the birds were sitting on chicks and it is likely others were on an egg. Of interest was one nesting bird ‘bill clappering’ and perhaps communicating with the chick. We were able to obtain good views without being too near the birds. Only one or two albatross were seen flying high above, however later in the day more appeared to join their mate on the nest and it was interesting to observe the ‘gamming’ behaviour of five Southern Royal Albatross. The landscape was also of interest with re-vegetated slips and rocky lichen covered crags which stood out above the yellow-brown of the tussocks. Those of us who completed the board walk to the seating area, in spite of the stiff wind not only enjoyed a great view into North West Bay with limestone and other rocks visible, but also enjoyed wonderful viewing of a hillside with the purple daisy, which appeared to be flowering earlier this year. On return to the landing we were treated with close viewing of a male and three female New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sea Lions.
On return to the landing, (Dr) Lesley was “savagely attacked by a giant male sea lion for 25 to 30 minutes…It kept going huff and I replied huff. Then his mate kept coming up and finally got sick of it. My only weapon was my bag. In the end I tried for a tactical withdrawal as another [sea lion] lunged, but I ended up with a bite, fortunately not serious, on the leg”.
While we explored ashore the crew held two important exercises on board the ship. One involved launching the two lifeboats with the davits and other aspects being checked and late in the afternoon they also held a fire drill.
On the long walk numerous snipe and teal were seen as the group was leaving the beach at the bay. Five Elephant Seals and a few New Zealand Sea Lions were spotted including a young male on top of the limestone cliff. A Giant Petrel was also seen with two well-developed chicks. The party viewed 25 nesting Southern Royal Albatross, with many apparently on their nest. Derek commented “the views of the albatross were unbelievable” and after walking through tussocks, up a slip, then along the ridge, “rocks could be seen that had been smashed by the waves”.
Many flowers, including a large area of Pleurophyllum speciosum, were blooming. We saw 3 or 4 Snipe, a pair of Teal on the beach at lunch time and there was a possible sighting of two Long-tailed Cuckoo, a Starling and a Pipit feeding on seaweed. Apart from a few hail squalls, everyone handled the walk well and group photos were taken at the small coast watchers’ cave and the North West Bay hut where the book was signed. The track was generally good with only a short muddy stretch near the end. The walkers were collected by Zodiac and returned to the ship somewhat weary and very satisfied with their day out. The extensive photo record will be enjoyed for a long time to come. We appreciated this opportunity to have a good look at Campbell Island and all enjoyed discussing our experiences and observations over dinner. Elizabeth said she became “lost in the [Dracophylum] scrub…I was abandoned by my leader!” For Susan the walk reminded her of the south-west of Tasmania, while Steve was delighted that with the days sightings of the Campbell Island Snipe and Teal. He has now passed the record for sightings of New Zealand birds – a commendable 273 species. With our last day almost here, most of us turned in early.


Photo: S.Blanc

Day 28 Saturday 7 February. 
Campbell Island; En-route to Bluff
Noon position: Latitude 52^o 04.518’ South; Longitude 169^o 12.951’ East
Air temperature: 11^oC Water 10.4^oC
Pressure: 1004hp
Most of us slept well and we looked out to find a foggy morning. The climb of Mt. Honey was called off because of fog, rain and wind. Plans were then made for Ross and David to take a number of people to Col Lyall while a Zodiac cruise would take others to the head of the harbour. This was not to be. The wind and sea got up and the ship began to drag its two anchors. At 8.20 a.m. Nathan gathered everyone together to explain that the weather was deteriorating to such an extent that further landings would not be possible. Following a show of hands it was agreed that the expedition should now head for Bluff. An hour later we cleared the entrance to Perseverance Harbour, turned to port to make our way as quickly as possible to Port Pegasus or Lord River at Stewart Island. This was 318 nautical miles away with a total of 345 to Bluff, where the Pilot was booked for 7 a.m. Monday. Anticipating bad sea conditions, many of us began to pack for departure.
During the morning a few of us were on the bridge enjoying the big swells of 5-6m and the various birds which included, Wanderer, Campbell, Southern Royal and Shy (White-capped) Albatrosses along with Cape and Grey-backed Storm Petrels and a dark brown Giant Petrel. At 12.18 p.m. we experienced a 40^o from the vertical roll with several at 35^o. At 4 p.m. Second Officer Sergei recorded a 54^o roll. Doug said to the Chief Mate Aleksi, “What’s the limit?” He replied, “I don’t know”.
For lunch the chefs produced and served excellent pizza and staff did a wonderful job assisting the stewards by clearing the tables. Glyn remarked that Don looked like he had magnetic boots. The afternoon went very quietly, with many staying in the cabin although there were several good rolls and the wind was blowing at 35-40 knots. On the Bridge there was considerable laughter when further photos were taken of Frank and his ‘look-alike brother’. All they needed was to be wearing the same shirts!
To help the kitchen and dining room staff, the evening meal was scaled down with no entree and one main only available. We did however have a very nice dessert. A brief course change during the dinner hour and clean up time was much appreciated by both passengers and staff. A few of us returned to the Bar/library to read or look at photographs taken, but most opted for an early night.

Day 29 Sunday 8 February. 
En-route to Bluff
Noon position: Latitude 48^o 14.86’South; Longitude 169^o01.395’ East
Air temperature: 14^oC Water 11.6^oC
Pressure: 1025hp
This morning we enjoyed a great sighting of 15 Common Dolphins beside the ship. At 8.30 a.m. we had 80 nautical miles to run before Stewart Island with our course in line of the Traps. Our aim was to maintain 10.5 knots with an ETA at Stewart Island of 5 p.m. Once there we could enjoy a final expedition dinner in calmer waters. Today was taken up by finalising accounts, packing and resting. Another slight course change made it more comfortable during our lunch and at 12.40 p.m. four Dusky Dolphins were seen and bird life has included several Albatrosses.
We arrived off Stewart Island in the early evening. Stewart Island (Rakiura) which has several off-shore islands covers a large area and is made up of ancient basement granite rocks, with Mt. Anglem (979m) in the north-east corner being the highest point. Forest margins around Port Pegasus border beaches, sand dunes, streams, rivers, lakes and estuaries, bracken fields, tussock-grass down lands along with rock outcrops. Bird life is prolific and includes the South Island Brown Kiwi, Red and Yellow Crowned Parakeets (Kakariki), New Zealand Pigeon, Kaka and the rare South Island Saddleback. There are also New Zealand Fur Seals and Yellow-eyed, Little Blue and Fiordland Crested Penguins. Tuatara like those we had seen at the Southland Museum in Invercargill are found on the predator free off-shore islands. There is a long history of human habitation on Stewart Island, with early moa-hunter Maori going back perhaps 600 years, then European settlers and in the 1920’s Norwegian whalers serviced the whale chasers here.
At 6.45 p.m. we assembled in the lecture room for a final debrief from Nathan who said he hoped we would all be advocates for the ongoing protection of the Subantarctic Islands and the Ross Sea region. Nathan then thanked the staff and paid a tribute to all of us for a memorable voyage. We then settled down to view Samuel’s 300 photo DVD summary of the expedition which will be made available to us. We anchored off The Neck in calm waters at 9.15 p.m. Latitude 46^o57.234’South; Longitude 168^o 13.292’ East and at 9 p.m. enjoyed a sumptuous farewell dinner. Our chefs did us proud with rib-eye roast beef, roast chicken and hot champagne ham. Vegetables included roast pumpkin and kumara, peas, sweet baby carrots, cauliflower with cheese sauce and potato gnocchi with a pumpkin and curry sauce.  Seafood and antipasto platters rounded out the offering. Desserts included Pavlova (a proven New Zealand invention – sorry Australia!) and Chocolate Brownies. It was a wonderful way to bring our expedition to a close.
With the Pilot booked for 7 a.m. in the morning and our departure by 9 a.m., the Log has now been closed off and all that remains to be done is to complete packing, clear customs and quarantine.

The author hopes you enjoy this record of our expedition and thanks all who have contributed with information including bird and mammal sightings and other items of interest, such the interesting hand-written pieces by Mary A, placed on the notice board. Ship positions will enable you to compile a map if you wish and the information should be useful for your photographic record.

We appreciated the hard work of our professional Expedition Leader Nathan and his team – Agnes, Samuel, Lesley, Don, David; New Zealand Government Representative Ross; Captain Dimitry and his Officers; along with Natalia and her hard working and capable staff making up the 22 crew. Our knowledge of the Subantarctic Islands and Antarctica has been greatly enhanced and the expedition will certainly be one we will remember for many years. In all we covered 5,085 nautical miles or 9,353 km. We hope to meet some of you again on a future Heritage Expeditions voyage.

Thank you.
David Harrowfield


Photo: S.Blanc