1032: Jewel of the Russian Far East 9 Sep 2010
Day 1: 9 September
Arrive/Depart Anadyr
The first group arrived in Anadyr from Nome just before lunch and were ferried across to the ship by three staff members: Expedition Leader Rodney Russ; Lecturer and Guide Aleks Terauds; and Chief Engineer Costa. It was a beautiful morning in Anadyr, with clear blue skies and calm seas in the harbour - perfect weather for watching the Beluga Whales as they slowly surfaced around the harbour. Most of the people that were staying on for the next trip took the opportunity look around Anadyr for a few hours.
The second group arrived in Anadyr later in the afternoon and by early evening they were also aboard and getting to know what would be their home for the next few weeks. The Captain raised the anchor and we headed out of the Anadyr estuary, sailing northwards for Egvekinout. Pre-dinner drinks started soon after and many people headed up to the bar to get to know their fellow passengers and to relax after a busy day of travelling. After dinner, Rodney held a briefing where he introduced the staff, including our Hotel Manager Julia, lecturers/guides Justine, Aleks and Katya, chefs Nicki and Brad and special guest lecturer Nikita from Wrangel Island. After the briefing most people called it a night, weary from the day’s travelling.
Day 2: 10 September
Egvekinout
We started heading up the Egvekinout estuary in the early hours of the morning and by breakfast were tied up to the wharf. On the way up we had calm seas that reflected the stark grey hills that ring the town, speckled with autumnal colours of red and yellow. We were treated to a presentation by photographer Jenny Ross, who gave us a beautifully illustrated talk on the Biology of Polar Bears. Later in the afternoon, and continuing the Polar Bear theme, Nikita our special guest lecturer from Wrangel Island, gave us another interesting presentation on the Fate of Polar Bears in a Greenhouse World. He had some different perspectives on Polar Bears to Jenny and it was great to see the two viewpoints from such experienced people.
After the lectures we held special pre-dinner drinks, with cocktails on the house and everybody got into the spirit of things after a day on-board the ship. After another fantastic dinner by Nicki and Brad most people wandered downstairs for the movie feature – Grizzly Man - to finish off the day.
Day 3: 11 September
At sea
Spending the night at sea we awoke to a grey day with a reasonable swell running. Most people spent the day relaxing, bird watching or sleeping. There were good numbers of shearwaters spotted heading south on their migration back to their breeding grounds in the southern hemisphere. Vega, Slaty-backed and Glaucous-winged Gulls followed the ship on and off for most of the day and Black-legged Kittiwakes were always in attendance.
Day 4: 12 September
Bukhta Gavriila
After another night at sea, we arrived at Bukhta Gavriila in the early morning. While we ate breakfast Rodney, Aleks, Katya and Nikita took a Zodiac to shore on a scouting mission. The proposed landing site was too rough so Rodney asked the Captain to move the ship to the south while he explored some alternative landing. There was much more lee from the headland on the southern beaches of the bay so the decision was made to land there and soon everybody was ashore.
We walked up the creek for a little while and then split up into three groups: the first heading off on a longer, faster walk with Rodney, the second on a medium distance walk with Aleks and the third group stayed fairly locally with Justine.
During the morning the sun came out occasionally and the autumn colours of the tundra were spectacular; there were many species of bird to be seen both on the coastal side and the lagoon side of the bay. It is thought that the huge Orianla Lagoon provides great habitat for many species of birds at certain times of the year and today we saw Harlequin Ducks, Greater Scaups, Red-breasted Merganser, Common Eiders and at least three species of gull. The medium walkers also saw a Red Fox and a big Northern Raven flying overhead. The botanists weren’t disappointed either with a range of fascinating vascular plants, lichens, moss and fungi to photograph and identify. There were also many seals in the bay, most identified as Largha Seals.
The longer walkers went all the way out to an abandoned weather station on a spit to the south where they found a sign proclaiming it to be the oldest weather station in Chukotka. They were the last to return to the landing site and by early afternoon we were all back onboard for lunch when we set off south again, sailing for Bukhta Natalia.
The afternoon sea wasn’t quite as choppy as the day before so there was the opportunity to have some lectures. The first was from Aleks – the first part in a two part series on the Marine Life of the Russian Far East, and this one focussed on birds. Jenny Ross gave the second presentation of the afternoon, and with the second part of her Life on Thin Ice series we were given more insight into the lives of Polar Bears and the possible effects that a changing climate might have on the Arctic environment.
Day 5: 13 September
Bukhta Natalia
We arrived at Bukhta Natalia by mid-morning and everybody was glad to get some shelter from the wind and swell. Launching the Zodiacs into a still but drizzly day we spent the next couple of hours cruising and making several landings at small beaches up to the head of this major bay. These were our first landings in Kamchatka on this expedition and as the morning progressed the drizzle gradually abated until there was sunshine. By the final landing, the fog and mist had slowly dissipated to reveal a remarkable landscape: the sharp peaks, jagged ridgelines and deeply incised valleys, together with the yellow and red vegetation made for some absolutely stunning scenery and it was difficult to get people back on the Zodiacs and back to the ship for lunch.
After lunch it wasn’t long before the first of the passengers were once more disembarking the ship for the short Zodiac ride to the shores of a small subsidiary fiord, Bukhta Pavla. The plan was to walk over the large headland that separated this fiord from the adjoining one - Bukhta Petra. Rodney led the group on this beautiful 10 km hike for the remainder of the afternoon. It started off up a river that was rushing down the hillside with numerous waterfalls and rapids glinting in the afternoon sunlight and as we continued up the hill, the colours of the vegetation became ever more striking and the greens, yellows and reds even more vivid. For most of the walk we had high peaks on all sides, forming a magnificent backdrop and eventually came to a lake near the high point before continuing down a river valley to the adjacent fiord. Brad and Costa came in to pick us up and although some were a bit weary, the consensus was that it was an afternoon that would not soon be forgotten. As we settled in for pre-dinner drinks, the Captain took the ship back out of Bukhta Natalia and we continued south along the Kamchatka coast, heading for a new landing at Bukhta Lavrova.
Day 6: 14 September
Bukhta Lavrova
The morning was spent travelling down the Koryak coastline and it was clear from the seemingly endless line of jagged peaks that we had left the flat tundra landscapes far behind. Those up early enough were treated to a pod of Killer Whales, three males and three females passing close by the boat and there were hundreds of shearwaters and gulls accompanying the ship for most of the morning. It was a beautiful day and the sun was shining so most people hung out on deck or on the bridge, though some came inside for Aleks’ lecture on Marine Mammals of the Russian Far East and later in the morning, the briefing on activities in Petropavlosk-Kamchatskiy – our destination in a few days time.
We arrived at the entrance to Bukhta Lavrova just on lunch and as we slowly came into the head of the bay there were many pairs of eager eyes scanning the surrounding hillside for bears; five were spotted on the distant shores, including a mother and cub. Finishing lunch, we boarded the Zodiacs once more and headed along the southern shores of the bay. Although we scanned the hillsides carefully no more bears were seen, however we did come across a very interesting shipwreck of a large fishing trawler. There were also huge flocks of ducks, largely Black Scoters but also Common Eiders and Red-breasted Mergansers.
A little further into the bay some signs of old settlement could be seen and we made our first landing at one of these. We spent some time wandering around the derelict building, marvelling at the conditions that people must have lived in when they were working here. Although we saw lots of recent bear sign, no animals were spotted and we made our way back to the Zodiacs and headed further inland then along the southern arm of the bay. For a while we traversed north and south, landing, exploring and walking where the landscapes opened out into beautiful hills and waterfalls, lit up in the slowly fading afternoon light. At one landing we came across an old gravesite and some also discovered beautiful late-blooming flowers, including rhododendrons and irises that were retaining their colour unusually late in the season. Our final landing was at the northern-most of the two main settlements. This one appeared bigger and Rodney speculated that it may have been a fox fur farm, with the other one possibly a fish cannery. The infrastructure that was present suggested a major industry of some kind although it had obviously been abandoned for many years. We eventually left the settlement and made our way back to the ship before setting sail south once more, toward Cape Conspicuous.
Day 7: 15 September
Cape Conspicuous, Verkhotyrova Island
We arrived early at Cape Conspicuous, the Zodiacs were launched and before breakfast everyone was ashore and keen for some bears. The morning got off to a good start when a bear was spotted on the hill at the end of the beach where we landed. After watching it move up the hill and eventually out of sight we made our way up the river valley until we reached a viewpoint that allowed us good views of both the river and the surrounding hillsides. It didn’t take long until we were rewarded with some great bear sightings. First up was a single sub-adult male ambling through the short scrub and grass along an adjacent hill, who was then followed by a mother and two cubs then a mother with three cubs. After several other single bear sightings we got up to 13 bears for the morning in what was turning out to be a bear bonanza. Eventually the first mother cub threesome moved down the hill and came closer to our group, literally just over the river from where we were waiting. It was fantastic to see the young cubs gambolling and play-fighting with each other, with mum keeping a careful eye on us and the surrounding landscape in the beautiful morning light. Stomachs rumbling, we eventually started to make our way back to the landing and then back aboard for breakfast.
During breakfast the Captain set a course for Verkhotyrova Island and as we sailed there were plenty of birds and cetaceans to keep those out on deck or on the bridge interested. There were Humpback Whales, Minke Whales and at least one Sei whale sighted, with the highlight being a Humpback mother and calf pair. As we came closer to the island, bird numbers increased with Common Guillemots, Tufted and Horned Puffins and Parakeet Auklets sighted. Once we were there the Zodiacs were launched in a reasonable swell and as we headed in towards shore it became clear that the break on the beach was going to make it impossible to land at the bird cliffs. We continued around the island at a leisurely pace, hundreds of Pelagic Cormorants circling the boats and surrounded by puffins and Ancient Murrelets in the water. We also came across a haul out of sub-adult male Steller Sea Lions hauled out on a rockstack and had some good views of these animals for the first time this trip. Late in the afternoon we made a landing at the calmer end of the island and had the opportunity to stretch our legs for a couple of hours. Some wandered up to the abandoned lighthouse, others explored the surrounding landscapes while some just beachcombed. It was such a beautiful afternoon that Rodney decided to hold the evening pre-dinner drinks on the beach. With a bit of to-ing and fro-ing some supplies were brought ashore and with a driftwood fire we had a very relaxing end to a fantastic day.
Day 8: 16 September
Karaginsky Island
After another early breakfast Rodney gave us a briefing on the planned activities for the morning and we headed ashore at the southern end of Karaginsky Island. With a couple of hours to explore, everybody headed off in their own direction and in the bright morning sunshine explored the surrounds. Some went for a longer walk up onto the distant ridgeline while others beachcombed their way along kilometres of deserted coastline. There were many fox-prints on the beach but they proved elusive with only one brief sighting. There were, however, Oriental Greenfinches and Lapland Buntings in abundance for the birdwatchers and a couple of Pacific Golden Plovers were also spotted. The myriad of footprints in the dried out lakes were evidence of the thousands of waders that must use this excellent habitat in the summer months. We made our way back to the ship in the late morning and were soon heading off the coast towards the Commander Islands.
It was a beautiful afternoon for being out on deck and several people took advantage of the good weather to watch the world go by. With our impending arrival at the Commander Islands, Katya gave two presentations throughout the afternoon. The first was an Introduction the Commander Islands where she gave us some great background on the history and wildlife of the islands, and the second was on Sea Otters, whetting everybody’s appetites for some sightings of these animals in the next few days.
Day 9: September 17
Medny Island
After a good night at sea we awoke to sunny skies and those up early enough saw a beautiful sunrise and another bonus awaited the early risers: a Short –tailed Albatross appeared and circled the boat a couple of times. It must have been the morning for albatrosses because over the next few hours both Laysan and Black-footed were also sighted. As we came up towards Medny Island the cetaceans were also in abundance, with Sperm Whales, Minke Whales and Dall Porpoises all seen.
We soon arrived at Medny Island and, after a briefing by Rodney, got into the Zodiacs and were ferried ashore at Bukhta Peschanaya. It was a beautiful day and although we split up into all directions everybody had something interesting to report at the end of the morning. Sea otters, Harbour Seals, Arctic (Blue) Foxes, Rosyfinches and Ptarmigan were just some of the highlights, not to mention the beautiful scenery. Some also took the opportunity to have a look around the small settlement and gravesites, while others just went on a long walk to explore the landscape and stretch their legs. We made it back to the ship in time for a late-ish lunch and steamed south to a new landing in search of some Northern Fur Seals.
Mid-afternoon the Zodiacs were launched once more and we headed ashore at Bukhta Glinka. Some made the long walk up and over the island to the other side in search of a large Northern Fur Seal colony and, even though we didn’t make it to our intended lookout destination, we could still see some Fur Seals in the water and the colony could just be made out in the distance. Those who stayed on the beach had some great experiences with a number of friendly Arctic (Blue) Foxes which hung around long enough for most of the long walkers to see as well. These remarkable animals seemed very friendly and not in the least bit perturbed by our presence and many people really enjoyed seeing them close up. By evening we were back on board for lively pre-dinner drinks and dinner.
Day 10: 18 September
Bering Island, At sea en-route to Zhupanova River
We arrived at the harbour of Nikoi’skoye, capital of Bering Island in the Commander Group early morning. The Zodiac was launched in thick fog and Costa and Julia went ashore to pick up one of the island staff in order to give him a lift back to Petropavlosk-Kamchatskiy. After Vladimir was safely onboard we set sail for the south-western corner of the island, once more in search of Northern Fur Seals. Soon after we were underway we saw a pod of Killer Whales in a feeding frenzy just off the ship. The two males and four females were breaching and lunge feeding and it was great to get a close up view of these amazing predators in action.
We arrived at the entrance to the bay where we intended to land and after a briefing by Rodney, the Zodiacs were launched and we began to load. During the loading of the second group, one of the Zodiacs was punctured on the gangway and Rodney decided to abandon the landing due to the increasing swell and difficulty in getting people aboard the Zodiacs safely. Those already in the Zodiacs were ferried back to the ship and soon after we headed off again, this time departing the Commander Islands and heading back towards the Kamchatka Coast.
Just as we started to sail over the ocean shelf which surrounds the Commander Islands, several Humpback Whales passed quite close to the ship and most people made their way up on deck to get some great views of these animals. We continued on our way through the fog for the rest of the day. Rodney, Aleks and Katya spent much of the day repairing the Zodiac while Julia held the sea-shop in the afternoon for those needing some retail therapy.
Day 11: 19 September
Zhupanova River
It was a blustery morning as we made our way south-west towards the Zhupanova River. However, as we approached the entrance, the weather appeared to be abating and with the barometer on the rise we put down the anchor, had lunch then planned to make a Zodiac cruise up the river after lunch.
Sure enough, the weather continued to improve and after lunch four Zodiacs were launched as we headed into the Zhupanova River. It was a rocky ride into the entrance and the wind was still quite strong as we came past the fishing village - the village was empty since the season had just finished and all the fisherman had left only in the last few days. Just as we came through the estuary a juvenile Steller Sea Eagle swooped down past the boats, circled three times and landed on a submerged log. This was the first of many fantastic Steller Sea Eagle sightings for the day, with three adults and at least four juveniles sighted. One juvenile in particular was unperturbed by our presence and we were able to drift right underneath the tree it was roosting in, allowing everybody some great views and fantastic photo opportunities. In addition to the sea eagles, other wildlife that we saw as we headed up river included Harbour Seals, at least two species of divers, gulls and large flocks of Red-breasted Merganser.
We spent about two hours cruising up and down the river system with Rodney skilfully leading us through the sandbars and narrow channels, making one landing on a small beach to stretch our legs. Many people remarked that it was nice to see trees again as the riverbanks were thick with several species. After another rocky ride back to the ship we were all back aboard in the late afternoon. Just before pre-dinner drinks Rodney gave us a briefing on the planned activities for Petropavlosk-Kamchatskiy and there followed yet another fantastic meal from Brad and Nicky before calling it a night in anticipation of another full day tomorrow.
Day 12: 20 September
Petropavlosk-Kamchatskiy
After heading down to breakfast we made a cut lunch to take with us on the various activities today; those intending to do the volcano walk and flight to the Valley of the Geysers headed off in a mini-bus, while those intending to stay more locally headed off into town at various times through the day.
Unfortunately, snow and high winds at the Valley of the Geysers meant that the flight was cancelled so some decided to do the volcano walk while others elected to go back to the ship and spend some time in the town. The walkers had a bumpy ride up to the base of the Gorely Volcano but set off in sunshine and high moving clouds. As we ascended, the views just got better and better and although it was steep and muddy in places, it was worth it for the scenery. As we passed the 1500m mark there were snow and ice crystals on the ground and a couple of members of the group decided to start descending. The others persevered and eventually made it to the crater edge at 1873 m above sea level. The fumaroles sent clouds of smoke up into the sky creating a dramatic skyscape when the sun was revealed by the passing clouds. Although there was too much mist to see the bottom of the crater, the strong smell of sulphur left little doubt as to where we were and after a group photo at the crater edge we started to slowly make our way back down to the waiting truck.
The drive back started off quietly with everybody a little weary from the day’s exercise but a bear sighting soon woke everybody up and as we progressed back down the mountain we saw another large male by himself, followed by a mother and two cubs ambling along the road. It was the perfect end to a marvellous day. By evening we were back at the ship and there was much story telling of the days activities over pre-dinner drinks. Those who had spent the day around town also had a good day with much sightseeing and even a bit of shopping to keep them occupied. We took the pilot onboard around after dinner and set sail for the Kuril Islands.
Day 13: 21 September
At sea from Petropavlosk-Kamchatskiy, Paramushir Strait
Those up early enough caught a beautiful Kamchatka sunrise, with snow-capped volcanoes lit up red by the rising sun. The volcanoes continued to dominate the landscape on the starboard side as we headed down the southern end of the Kamchatka peninsula for the rest of the morning toward the Kuril Islands. Today one of the main aims was to find Sea Otters, with Rodney having an idea that they could be found in the little-explored strait between the first two of the Kuril Islands, Paramushir and Shumshu. We arrived at the large bay marking the beginning of the strait at around midday and even on approach we started to see good numbers of Sea Otter, including some mothers with pups. We spent the next several hours doing a lap around this bay before heading into the strait itself and the Sea Otter sightings just kept getting better and better. We saw well over a 300 individuals with many mother and pup pairs. Some were quite curious of the ship as it approached, allowing us to get some great views and some good photographs.
As we passed through the strait we saw the small settlement of Severo-Kurilsk where there is a border guard station and fishing port. There were several vessels anchored in the vicinity, some looking decidedly worse for wear and hardly seaworthy. There were also several wrecks washed up on the shores; probably a legacy of the tsunami that swept through here in the 1950s. As we came out the other side of the strait, the large volcano that dominates Atlasova Island came into view. We set off, en-route to Onekotan Island.
Day 14: 22 September
Onekotan Island, Ekarma Island
We arrived at the anchorage at Onekotan just on dawn and after an early breakfast Rodney gave us a briefing on what we might expect at this landing. With everyone ashore safely we made our way up the beach and onto the overgrown road that now serves as the track to the lake. Most people made the relatively easy walk in an hour or so with the sun starting to appear. Some brave souls went for a swim while others just wandered around the water’s edge looking for birds and any other wildlife they could find. A couple of people saw one of the resident Red Foxes and there was also a pair of Peregrine Falcons spotted hunting above the cliffs near the landing. By mid-morning everybody had made their way back to the beach and we were soon all back onboard the ship. We immediately set sail to the south, heading down the west coast of Onekotan Island in the Sea of Okhotsk.
The sun was shining as we made our way through the early afternoon and there was plenty of wildlife around, with Northern Fulmars and cetacean sightings being the highlight; a large male Sperm Whale passed within 30m of the ship. As Ekarma Island loomed in the distance the number of Northern Fulmars began to increase until there were literally thousands around the vessel as we came within a few miles of the island. Even though it was a little windy with the occasional squall passing through, over half of the group elected to go on the Zodiac cruise of the bird cliffs and three Zodiacs were launched, heading to the southern end. The sun came out soon after and it was a beautiful afternoon close into the cliffs as we made our way through the kelp. We saw several Steller Sea Lions along the way, one of them a large adult bull that surfaced within metres of the Zodiacs. As we slowly headed north up the coast there were Red-faced Cormorants in full breeding plumage; at least three pairs of Peregrine Falcons; Grey and White Wagtails; Tufted and Horned Puffins and of course, thousands of Northern Fulmars. As we approached the northern headland, the clouds over the skyline resolved themselves into countless birds wheeling and calling, the sheer magnitude nearly overwhelming the senses. We sat underneath these birds for nearly an hour, our reverie only interrupted by a fierce hail storm that briefly came and went. With the light fading we eventually made our way back to the ship, which was bathed in a beautiful rainbow after the storm. Those back on board also had some great wildlife experiences, with Steller Sea Lions playing round the ship for most of the afternoon.
Day 15: 23 September
Yankicha Caldera, Simushir Island
It was a rocky night with the swell on our beam for much of it and only a few lulls as we came around the inside of some of the islands. We awoke early to Yankicha Island looming in the distance and after breakfast Rodney gave us a briefing on what we were going to attempt to do. The Zodiacs were launched and we were soon headed towards the northern tip of the island. We saw some seals in the water on the way in and, as we approached land, we could also see that there were Northern Fur Seals on the beach. Thick kelp prevented us from getting too close and we turned around and headed south towards the entrance of the caldera.
The swell was big. As we came around the headland and climbed up some of the steep faces of the larger waves we realised that the entrance may not be possible. Nevertheless we slowly made our way around the corner and with our drivers skilfully negotiating the bigger sets we got within 50m of the entrance. While it may have been possible to get in safely, getting out would have been a completely different story and so Rodney reluctantly decided to abandon the attempt. We slowly headed back out to sea, and then were able to pick up speed and surf the swells back to the ship. The Captain had the anchor raised soon after and we continued our journey south: next stop Simushir Island.
As we made our way towards the islands, the wind and swell didn’t abate and we weren’t sure if launching the Zodiacs would be possible. Still as we approached Rodney, Aleks and the Captain carefully surveyed the waters closer inshore. Finally, as the Captain came in as close as he dared, Rodney decided that launching would be possible and three boats were put in the water soon after. We drove headlong into the wind, but as we rounded the corner and came into the caldera it was much more sheltered and we had a smooth final ride to the shores of the small settlement. Upon landing, everybody went their separate ways as there were so many things of interest to see; it had been a Cold War outpost and served as a major submarine base in its day. By early evening we started to head back to the ship and were back on board in time to have a shower and pre-dinner drinks. The swell seemed to be slowly abating and everybody was hopeful of a good night’s sleep.
Day 16: 24 September
At sea, Iturup
It was a quiet day at sea in the morning, with the activities for the day starting with a very interesting lecture by Aleks on Polar Landscapes in a Changing World. Just before lunch the island of Iturup began to become clearer and we were soon anchored, with Rodney giving us a briefing on the activities planned for the afternoon. Once ashore we all piled into the truck and headed up to the hot springs. It was a beautiful place and everybody thoroughly enjoyed soaking in the soothing hot waters or just relaxing up there for a couple of hours. One of the highlights had to be the new species of ‘sea otter’ that were spotted in the bubbling waters.
Eventually it came time to leave and we piled back into the bus and back to the beach where Aleks, Rodney and Costa were waiting for us in the Zodiacs. Back onboard for pre-dinner drinks and another delicious dinner we called it a night.
Day 17: 25 September
At Sea
Most of the day was spent sorting out last minute things before the end of the trip. Justine gave us a presentation and held a workshop on plant identification and later Rodney held an Expedition Recap in the lecture room where he recounted our exploits over the last 17 days, followed by Aleks who gave us a visual recap of images taken during the trip.
In the afternoon we settled accounts and packed up our belongings before heading to our final pre-dinner drinks. Nicki and Brad put on a superb final meal in buffet-style for dinner which everybody thoroughly enjoyed.
A voyage of discovery - new sights, new sounds, and new friends. This voyage will live on in the minds of those who were aboard the Spirit of Enderby as a 'Jewel' in their memory - the Jewel of the Russian Far East
