HA241228: Beyond Fiordland: New Zealand's Wildest Islands
BEYOND FIORDLAND
on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER
28 December 2024 - 8 January 2025
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
Day 1
Saturday 28 December 2024
Queenstown
Our Beyond Fiordland adventure began in Queenstown, New Zealand’s world-famous alpine resort town, as we arrived from around the globe. We checked into our accommodations and met fellow guests alongside some of our Expedition Team in the lobby. Later that evening, we enjoyed a welcome dinner where everyone soon became fast friends. The Expedition Team then gave a brief introduction and welcome to prepare us for our upcoming adventure.
Day 2
Sunday 29 December 2024
Queenstown to Bluff and departure
At breakfast, we had the chance to reconnect with our fellow adventurers before exploring this bustling adventure town. After a delicious lunch, we boarded coaches for the transfer through the pastoral countryside of Southland to Bluff Harbour to meet our beautiful new home for the upcoming voyage, Heritage Adventurer. We settled into our cabins and then came together for the lifeboat drill. Next, we were called into the Lounge for our first opportunity to meet our Expedition Leader, Dan, who talked to us about life on board and plans for the voyage ahead. Hotel Director Erik introduced us to ship life, and Dan introduced the Expedition Team – around 20 experts who will help us make the most out of our expedition. We were briefed on the Zodiacs, which will be our main way to get ashore and explore the wildlife of the Subantarctic Islands. As we settled in for what would be the first of many delicious dinners, Heritage Adventurer set sail, officially starting our adventure.
Next was the Mud Rooms to ensure our new Muck Boots fitted and that we would be ready for our first excursion tomorrow morning.
Day 3
Monday 30 December 2024
The Snares Islands
This morning we woke to find Heritage Adventurer sailing to North East Island at The Snares Islands. As we headed out onto the decks, we saw an abundance of seabirds, mainly the very dark Sooty Shearwater/Tītī, but also lots of Albatross. Our Captain navigated our trusty expedition vessel close to the main island, and we watched, in awe, at the sheer number of birds. At 0800, Dan told us it was “all go” for the first Zodiac excursion of our adventure. The sun came out, perfect conditions for a Zodiac cruise. On the water, the Sooty Shearwaters, Diving Petrels, Giant Petrels, Cape Petrels and Albatross swirled around us in huge numbers as we explored the coves and headlands of North East Island. The 'Penguin Slide' was an incredible spectacle, with an abundance of endemic Snares Crested Penguins going up and down and in and out of the water navigating the famous stretch of near vertical rock. It was endlessly entertaining and already it was time for lunch.
As Heritage Adventurer set sail, Dan informed us we would pass the Western Chain. Again, the diversity of birds was astounding! We observed more seabirds soaring on the wind, including Salvin’s Albatross and Buller’s Albatross, and huge numbers of Sooty Shearwaters, Diving Petrels and Fairy Prions. In the afternoon, we gathered in the Lounge, so Dan could inform us about the biosecurity procedures. We cleaned our outerwear and had it inspected in preparation for upcoming landings. We will be very careful with the strict biosecurity protocols to prevent the transmission of invasive species or diseases between island groups. As the biosecurity procedures wrapped up, Wendy and Rob gave a great presentation on their work collecting seaweed on this voyage.
The bar was open, and we enjoyed a well-earned drink during the presentation and Dan’s briefing on our plans for tomorrow. The day was capped off with Captain’s Welcome Cocktails, where Captain Jacek introduced the heads of the various departments before we went to the restaurant to enjoy the Captain’s Welcome Dinner.
© A. Stevenson, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
Day 4
Tuesday 31 December 2024
Enderby Island
We arrived at Enderby Island this morning after a smooth sailing overnight, again with stunning weather - a blue-sky day. The first group departed Heritage Adventurer for the all-day adventure 'circuit walk' on Enderby Island; after admiring the New Zealand Sea Lions on the beach and giving way to the Yellow-eyed Penguin/Hoiho on the 'Penguin Highway', we made our way up the boardwalk to the Northern Cliffs. We marvelled at the beautiful megaherbs and passed several Albatross, New Zealand Dotterel and Pipits. After a stop at the northern viewpoint to admire the spectacular views, we left the boardwalk and headed into the tussock and megaherb fields, where large patches of beautiful, coloured Gentians carpeted the ground. We spent some time at the Light-mantled Sooty Albatross nesting site. Onwards past sheer cliffs, we observed several Yellow-eyed Penguin/Hoiho, Giant Petrel chicks and some inquisitive New Zealand Sea Lions, making the journey interesting.
At Derry Reef, we stopped for lunch and enjoyed views of New Zealand Sea Lions, swirling seaweed and sea spray. Carrying on along the coast, we passed through thicker vegetation and onto stony beaches, spotting several Kākāriki and deviating to avoid more Hoiho. The Rātā forest was coming into spectacular bloom, and we looked inside this gnarled twisted ‘goblin forest’ to admire the Tūī and Bellbirds feeding on the nectar. Around the coast, we checked out an Auckland Island Shag colony and the almost turquoise-clear water with beautiful swirls of seaweed. We then returned to Sandy Bay to observe the bustling main New Zealand Sea Lion colony.
Shortly after the long walkers had left, the next group exploring all day up to the Northern Cliffs departed. Those remaining headed out on a Zodiac cruise around the coastline. We learnt the area's history and marvelled at the geology with the impressive basalt columns. We saw several Hoiho on the rocks, Auckland Island Teal among the kelp beds, and a few Light-mantled Sooty Albatross were starting to settle on nests on the rock stacks. The Rātā was in spectacular bloom on nearby Rose Island, so our Zodiac drivers took us over to get a closer look. We also observed several endemic Auckland Island Shags drying their wings.
After a delicious lunch on board, we landed at Sandy Bay. We visited the New Zealand Sea Lion colony with all the newborn pups, the historic Stella Hut (a castaway depot) and followed the boardwalk to the Northern Cliffs.
We were all back on our trusty expedition vessel by 1800, and the hotel team put on a magnificent seven-course New Year’s Eve dinner, Crayfish and venison were some of the highlights. At 2030, we had the chance to head out again on a short Zodiac cruise ashore to the settlement on Enderby Island. Here we heard about the settlement of Hardwicke, established in 1849, and visited the historic cemetery alongside the Victoria tree, where a Rātā was engraved by the crew of the Victoria Norman who were here looking for castaways. Due to the hardships endured, this settlement became the shortest-lived British Colony and was abandoned just 3 years later.
Back on board, the New Year festivities continued with bubbles and an amazing performance on the saxophone by Sarah (aka Saxylady) from the New Zealand Nature Fund. We celebrated the start of a new year before heading to our cabins, eagerly awaiting what the first day of 2025 would bring.
© D. Howes, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
Day 5
Wednesday 1st January 2025
Auckland Islands
New Year, new adventure and another stunning day as we arrived in Musgrave Inlet. After breakfast, it was straight into the Zodiacs for a cruise around the coastline of this inlet named after Captain Musgrave from the shipwrecked Grafton in 1846. The 5 men on board were stranded on Auckland Island and eked out an existence for 18 months. The highlight of the cruise was seeing Eastern Rockhopper Penguins. There were a number sunning themselves on the rocky coastline, and we could hear several calling from the undergrowth. Unfortunately, this species is in serious decline, and our guides explained some possible reasons for this. We saw Megaherbs clinging to the cliffs above us, the only area pigs couldn't reach.
Across the bay and through the thick beds of seaweed, we explored several caves, including one where the roof had previously collapsed, leaving a stunning amphitheatre behind. Our drivers turned off the engine so we could enjoy the peace and hear the Bellbirds singing.
During lunch we sailed into Carnley Harbour. Those who had signed up for the South West Cape walk were dropped at the entrance to Victoria Passage, for a walk along an exciting trail. A group of keen walkers landed on the shore of the main Auckland Island and were immediately met with evidence of pig tracks and rooting of the surrounding soil, a stark difference to the pest-free nearby Adams Island. Slowly, but surely, we made our way through the dense scrub and steep gradient to the top of the cliff and were met with a magnificent view. Thousands upon thousands of White-capped Albatrosses were sitting on nests and soaring around us with a magic Southern Ocean backdrop. What more could you wish for?
While the South Cape walkers were away, the rest of us went on a Zodiac cruise down Carnley Harbour. Sea conditions allowed our Zodiacs to pass through Victoria Passage (a rare event), where we were able to view the White-capped Albatross colony above, perched on the steep cliffs amongst thriving megaherbs, away from the access of pigs, where hundreds of birds sat on nests and circled above us. We heard about the feral pigs on Auckland Island and the upcoming proposed eradication programme. Our cruise back down the harbour along the coastline of predator-free Adams Island gave us a perspective on the difference between predator-free and not. We witnessed some Giant Petrels feeding on a dead New Zealand Sea Lion and listened to Bellbirds and Tūīs singing in the flowering Rātā. Everyone was back on board by 1800 for a recap, briefing and another delicious dinner.
© A. Stevenson, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
Day 6
Thursday 2nd January 2025
Campbell Island, Northwest Bay, Mount Honey and Col Lyall Walk
As we cruised into Perseverance Harbour, we enjoyed breakfast and took in the sights of Campbell Island. Those going on the all-day walks collected their lunch packs and toilet bags. First away was the small group walking the Northwest Bay Circuit, a round-trip walk of 12 kilometres across the western side of Campbell Island, involving a double crossing of the 220m high ridge to and from Northwest Bay.
We climbed steadily up through low fell fields, Dracophyllum shrublands and tussock grasslands toward the ridge. After walking around the shore to Tucker Cove, we climbed to the ridge, where we enjoyed wonderful views, including limestone cliffs and the imposing Dent Island. We descended to the western shore through megaherb fields. After negotiating a couple of Elephant Seals and a New Zealand Sea Lion, we followed a marked track through dense Dracophyllum before sidling across tussock slopes back towards Perseverance Harbour. The track passed by numerous Southern Royal Albatross nesting sites, and we enjoyed the stunning aerial display of Albatross throughout the afternoon. During a rest break, not far from our pickup at Camp Cove, a Campbell Island Snipe appeared, allowing everyone to get their much-anticipated Snipe photo. After seven hours of walking, a tired but satisfied group boarded Zodiacs and made the short journey back to the comforts of Heritage Adventurer.
The Mount Honey walkers headed away with an excited energy in the air. We immediately spotted some Campbell Island Teal weaving around the rocks, establishing an exciting tone for an amazing day. The track weaved in and out of dense, head-high Dracophyllum scrub with occasional glimpses of the daunting Mount Honey. Transitioning to tussock, countless Southern Royal Albatross nests emerged as we made our ascent alongside low-flying adults soaring above our heads. They were so close you could hear the feathers rustling in the wind, a magic sound. Flowering Megaherbs became more prevalent in the meadows underneath the summit, and we spent time admiring their beauty with the backdrop of Campbell Island. Upon reaching the summit, the views were spectacular, with multiple synchronised Light-mantled Albatross flying displays. On our descent, adolescent Southern Royal Albatross started landing and socialising, known as 'gamming', providing great entertainment. A perfect end to a perfect day.
The remaining guests enjoyed a Zodiac cruise around the harbour visiting sheltered bays where the settlement of Tucker was established in 1900 as a sheep station. At its peak, there were 10,000 sheep here, but it never became a viable enterprise, and the leases were abandoned during the great depression. Finally, the last of the remaining sheep were removed in 1991. We visited the 'World's Loneliest tree', a Sitka spruce planted in the 1900s by the then Governor General of New Zealand, Lord Ranfurly. Over the years, this tree has been used for scientific studies for climate control, as it sits in a carbon sink. Its branches have also been used for Christmas trees by the Meteorological Service. Our Zodiac cruise finished with a visit to the nearby New Zealand Sea Lion colony, where several males, mothers and pups were gathered on a muddy point. This area is a hive of activity with fighting, mating, pups being born and feeding. Amongst it all were Skua looking for afterbirth and a lone Elephant Seal disinterested at the nearby rocks.
After a delicious lunch on board, we Zodiac cruised to Beeman Base where the old Metrological Service and Department of Conservation buildings are located. The boardwalk gradually elevated with many small orchids and sundews up to Beeman Hill, where several Southern Royal Albatross were nesting. Some of the birds were so close to the track we had to deviate off the boardwalk to give them some distance. At the top, there was a lovely seat to rest and admire the Megaherbs and magnificent views down the valley and across to Dent Island.
After a magnificent day of exploration, we returned to our trusty expedition vessel to unwind and enjoy dinner.
© A. Stevenson, Heritage Expeditions
© A. Stevenson, Heritage Expeditions
© A. Stevenson, Heritage Expeditions
© A. Stevenson, Heritage Expeditions
© A. Stevenson, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
Day 7
Friday 3rd January 2025
At sea
Our day at sea involved much relaxation - but also plenty of education. The Expedition Team started presentations with Fascinating Facts about Penguins by Rachel, Island Eradications by Phil. Then Kiwi acting royalty, winemaker and conservationist Sir Sam Neill (Jurassic Park) hosted My Story, Your Story followed by a delicious spread of afternoon tea. Before dinner, the Expedition team played a slide show reliving our adventure so far, accompanied by Sarah (Saxylady) on the saxophone.
© D. Howes, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Howes, Heritage Expeditions
© D. Howes, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
Day 8
Saturday 4th January 2025
Stewart Island/Ulva Island
This morning, we sailed into Paterson Inlet, Stewart Island. After breakfast, we boarded the Zodiacs to visit nearby Ulva Island. We met our guides and set off on a 90-minute exploration around the tracks on this stunning predator-free Island. Ulva Island is a prime example of a lowland Podocarp Forest with plenty of interesting plants and many New Zealand birds which thrive here due to the absence of predators. It allows us to observe some of these special species including Saddleback, Yellowhead, South Island Robin, Weka and Kākāriki, most not found on mainland New Zealand. The history is fascinating. We learned about the exotic trees planted over 150 years ago - to the leaves from the Muttonbird Scrub once used as official postcards until the early 1970’s. Some of our fellow adventurers were departing today, so from Ulva Island, they enjoyed a Zodiac cruise to nearby Golden Bay on Stewart Island to catch the ferry to Bluff. Those continuing the journey to Fiordland explored Oban, with options to visit the history museum, stroll the many bays, enjoy a coffee, fish and chips or perhaps a beer at the local pub. Meanwhile, a group of embarking guests joined Heritage Adventurer, and after a briefing and lunch on board, were off to experience the magic of Ulva Island. This evening, we had a recap of today’s highlights and a briefing on tomorrow's plans for Fiordland. Over dinner, we met with our new travelling companions, quickly becoming fast friends.
© P. Martin, Heritage Expeditions
© P. Martin, Heritage Expeditions
© P. Martin, Heritage Expeditions
© C Finch, Image from file, Heritage Expeditions
Day 9
Sunday 5th January 2025
Fiordland, Dusky Sound
We awoke to a beautiful blue-sky day with little cloud as we entered Tamatea/Dusky Sound to anchor offshore from Pigeon Island. We embarked on a Zodiac cruise to explore Facile Harbour and learned the story of New Zealand’s first shipwreck in 1795 - the Endeavour. We immersed ourselves in stunning scenery as steep-sided mountains loomed above us and dense Beech and Podocarp Forest hung down to the water’s edge.
Following our cruise, we were dropped ashore onto predator-free Pigeon Island, a lovely little cove with crystal clear water. We heard the remarkable story of Richard Henry, considered the ‘Godfather of Conservation’, and his work on this remote island. Little remains of his boatshed or house, aside from the chimney, a few broken bottles and glass slides. A short walk to a lovely viewpoint along the track offered fabulous views towards nearby Anchor Island. Over a wonderful BBQ lunch on the open decks, Heritage Adventurer repositioned to Anchor Island. The scenery was breathtaking, and we spent the afternoon exploring the Many Islands by Zodiac. We detoured into Luncheon Cove (named by James Cook) to visit the site of New Zealand’s first European Settlement and where the first boat was built. In the sheltered bays, we observed several New Zealand Fur Seal mothers and pups, and nearby rocks were home to Spotted and Little Black Shags.
Those not cruising walked the track on predator-free Anchor Island, home to a third of the world’s population of the endangered Kākāpō. Through a remote terrain, we had spectacular sightings of Mohua/Yellowhead, Tieke/Saddleback and Kākā (the forest parrot). At Lake Kirirua, Pied Shags were roosting and swimming in the lake. When we looked closer at the lake, we noticed many large eels, with those thinking of swimming changing their minds! The weather was fabulous for the walk, and we returned to the landing site, enjoying more bird encounters, before boarding the Zodiacs back to Heritage Adventurer. Those wanting to swim at the lake chose instead to swim in the sea at the landing. A great day for a swim, by all accounts!
After our briefing and recaps, we adjourned to dinner, where a large pod of very energetic Bottlenose Dolphins was putting on a great display of acrobatics. Heritage Adventurer departed Dusky Sound through Acheron Passage, past Resolution Island, and out to the Tasman Sea.
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© P. Todd, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
Day 10
Monday 6th January 2025
Fiordland, Milford Sound/Doubtful Sound
An early morning ‘Bingbong’ from Expedition Leader Dan announced we were about to enter Milford Sound/Piopiotahi. We couldn’t believe our luck as we were welcomed by another stunning day and ready to enjoy a spectacular sunrise cruise. Milford Sound is, no doubt, one of the most impressive of Fiordland’s fiords, with towering snowcapped peaks, hanging valleys, spectacular Stirling and Bowen waterfalls and the mighty Mitre Peak.
After a leisurely breakfast, we re-positioned to Doubtful Sound, enjoying presentations by Rob Franklin on Lost in Fiordland and Gen hosted a Q&A with two artists on board and Rob Vennell (author and museum curator), The Forgotten Forest, all about the weird and wonderful world of mushrooms, moulds and more! Following another delightful lunch, we prepared for the afternoon’s excursions. First away were the walkers who trekked from Grono Bay to The Gut Bay, all on Secretary Island. The verdant bush impressed us with natural beauty and the dense understory told the tale of regeneration now that the deer have been removed from the island. We enjoyed the bird song and delighted in the sight of Brown Creepers, Kākā, Kākāriki, Piwakawaka, Bellbirds and Tūī. At The Gut, some of us enjoyed swimming in the bay before returning to our trusty expedition vessel.
Others enjoyed a Zodiac cruise around Blanket Bay, visiting the crayfish hotel and waterfall, including Bauza Island, and down the sound along the coast, taking in the beautiful scenery. Those on the optional helicopter ride had a choice between a short or long flight, including a stop at a high peak alongside a mountain tarn. The day could not have been better to enjoy the magnificent views of the sound.
Back on board, we had a presentation from museum curator Rob, who had us all interested in lichens and mosses. The afternoon finished with cocktails by the pool and a lovely farewell from our Captain and all the amazing crew on board who have made our journey so memorable.
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
Day 11
Tuesday 7th January 2025
Fiordland, Dusky Sound
Fiordland brought its low fog as we awoke to cloud-draped mountains. After breakfast, those choosing the Lake Forster walk were dropped at Astronomer’s Point where the track starts. It was a lovely moss-laden track following a creek to a picturesque lake, named after Captain Cook’s botanists on board the Resolution, the ‘Forster brothers’. Thankfully, we returned to the comforts of Heritage Adventurer just as the first drop of rain for the voyage started.
The rest of us enjoyed a short Zodiac cruise, including visits to Cascade Falls, Astronomer’s Point, where Captain James Cook had his ship for 5 weeks during his second voyage in 1773. The time here was spent resting his men after a long voyage in the Southern Ocean, they also brewed some Rimu and Manuka beer, another New Zealand first. It was at nearby Indian/Mamaku Island that Cook had his first encounter with Māori. Back on board, just as the rain set in, we enjoyed a relaxing lunch before afternoon presentations for those who wished to learn more. To cap off a fantastic voyage, we enjoyed a slide show presentation and celebrated our journey with a final feast with new friends.
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
© J. Mishina, Heritage Expeditions
Day 12
Wednesday 8th January 2025
Port of Bluff
Today, we arrived in Bluff signalling the end of our voyage. After a final breakfast together, we said our farewells before departing to various destinations. It has been an incredible voyage, some of us heading down to the Subantarctic Islands, and others joining us at Stewart Island to experience the magic of Fiordland. We will depart with lasting memories, friendships and an inspiration to continue travelling to unexplored destinations.
© R. Brown, Heritage Expeditions
