HA241013: Indonesian Explorer: Raja Ampat to Papua New Guinea

INDONESIAN EXPLORER
on board HERITAGE ADVENTURER
13 - 31 October 2024

Day 1
Sunday 13th October
Bali, Indonesia

Our Indonesian Explorer voyage began at the Hyatt Regency Hotel in Sanur, Bali. Excitement filled the air as guests arrived and mingled with each other and the Expedition Team. After a delicious welcome dinner, everyone retired to their rooms with eager anticipation as to what the upcoming adventure would hold.

Day 2
Monday, 14th October
Bali

Our adventure was well and truly underway as we departed the Hyatt Regency Hotel and headed to the Batuan Temple and the village of Lantangidung. Batuan Temple is one of the most beautiful temples in Bali, featuring classical Balinese architecture and renowned for its elaborate carvings. The temple dates back to the 11th century and is surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens and thatched shrines. It serves as a central place of worship for the local Hindu community, focusing on ancestral worship and the balance of cosmic forces. Lantangidung village, nestled in Ubud, is a living example of traditional Balinese life, offering a chance to experience the island’s culture up close. Exploring the village, we took in the beautifully preserved compounds and witnessed the artistry of the local craftspeople. We learned about the delicate processes of hand-drawn batik (Canting) and stamp batik, with live demonstrations showcasing the craftsmanship behind each piece.

After a fascinating day exploring some of Bali’s highlights, we made our way to the Port of Benoa where our new home, Heritage Adventurer, was waiting. On board a refreshing cold drink, snacks and some much-needed air-conditioning greeted us. After settling in, we undertook the mandatory lifeboat drill before relaxing and exploring our new home for the adventure ahead. As dusk fell over Bali, we set sail heading east towards Sumbawa and Aaron Russ, our Expedition Leader, introduced the voyage, team and plans. What was to come would rank as one of the best voyages of all time.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.

Day 3
Tuesday 15th October
Sumbawa and Satonda Island

The expedition kicked off in style as we departed Heritage Adventurer for a short Zodiac cruise to the shores of Sumbawa where a fleet of vehicles were waiting to transport us inland to the village of Pamulang. Our initial impressions were of a very different place to Bali; the building architecture consisted of raised structures (which allow for changing water levels during the monsoon), and each building was a beautifully panelled timber structure, almost reminiscent of an old colonial style. We received a warm welcome and were guided through the village getting a snapshot into village life, learning about medicinal plants and even getting the opportunity to try local teas.

A short distance down the road we gathered at a rather muddy arena to witness a high-stakes, adrenaline-fuelled sport; Water Buffalo racing, known locally as 'Karapan Kerbau' and a popular pastime in Sumbawa. Jockeys balance on an A-frame structure rigged between two Water Buffalo whilst endeavouring to steer their buffalo to pass over a stake at the end of the arena – easier said than done. Originally developed as a celebration for the end of the rice harvest, as well as a fun way to till the paddy, it has now been developed into an entertaining pastime. We watched as buffalos careered off left and right, mud flew everywhere (along with the jockeys) and laughter erupted around the arena. After a fabulous morning, we returned to Heritage Adventurer and repositioned along the coast to Satonda Island, in the process getting our snorkel briefing from Courtney and being fitted with our masks, snorkel and fins for the afternoon’s activities.

Sitting just a couple of miles off the coast of Sumbawa, the island of Satonda is a beautiful forest-clad volcanic caldera. Inside the caldera, there is a unique alkaline lake, which is notable for being species-poor. Although the upper 20 metres of the lake are oxygenated, the deeper layers show extreme stratification with decreases in pH and then increases in salinity, making it an exceptional water body. This fascinating lake also gave our kayakers their first paddle, which allowed them to get up close to a huge roost of Flying Foxes and explore the beautifully forested lake fringe.

For the birders, there was the opportunity to explore the forest close to the landing, or for the more adventurous, a walk to a viewpoint up the crater rim. Here we encountered species such as Asian Emerald Dove, Flame-breasted Sunbird, Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker and White-bellied Sea Eagle. Satonda also offered our first snorkel experience and from the beach, we could wade and paddle out to the reef edge. Over 150 species of fish were recorded including a variety of Anemonefish, Wrasse, Parrotfish, Butterflyfish and Angelfish. As the sun set, we returned to our trusty expedition vessel where, as darkness crept in, Flying Foxes emerged en masse with heavy wingbeats making their way from the island to their mainland feeding areas.

© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.

Day 4
Wednesday, 16th October
Komodo

Dawn saw us cruising into the sheltered Loh Liang Bay as the sun rose above the striking landscape of Komodo Island. By 0700 everyone was off and exploring this other-worldly island. Here, there be Dragons. Guided by local rangers we explored the lowland deciduous forest of Loh Liang National Park and awed at up to 3 metre-long Komodo Dragons. Most of the Komodo Dragons chose shaded areas or near water holes to laze around. A few more energetic animals moved with a sprawling gait, bodies swaying from side to side and long-forked tongues tasting the air for their next potential meal.

Between the prehistoric Cycads and towering palms, we encountered the Critically Endangered Yellow-crested Cockatoo, a stunning parrot with fewer than 2000 individuals remaining. Komodo Island is estimated to hold 50% of the population. The groups also observed Orange-footed Megapodes, Green Junglefowl, White-bellied Sea Eagles, Red-cheeked Parrots and Wallacean Drongos. The trees supported some stunning Epiphytic Orchids and even a Boschma’s Gliding Lizard. Having made the most of the cooler dawn temperatures, everyone reboarded Heritage Adventurer for a short transit to Pink Beach.

Pink Beach, located on southeast Komodo Island, is renowned for its stunning pink sand, created by the mixing of white sand and red coral fragments. Here we enjoyed a sublime couple of hours snorkelling in the rich waters where over 100 species of fish were noted. Paddlers headed out through the sandy shallows where they encountered foraging Dash-and-dot Goatfish and an industrious Rockmover Wrasse scouring the sand flats. Not far from the shore were rich coral bommies of Table and Brain Corals, some adorned with vivid blue Anemone’s hosting Clown, Skunk and Tomato Anemonefish, conspicuous Butterflyfish, especially Blackback. We also observed Spot-tailed, Ornate and foraging Titan Triggerfish tearing at the reef, with smaller, Orange-lined Triggerfish standing by to grab the leftovers. We also encountered several Green Turtles and Banded Sea Krait.

After a spectacular morning on Komodo, we boarded Heritage Adventurer and set sail for Wakatobi. Crossing the Flores Sea provided a chance to listen to lectures, with Cathy delivering some top photographic tips and Konrad providing a synopsis of Indonesia’s rich and varied history. The birders kept a sharp eye out during the afternoon picking up both Red-footed and Brown Boobies, a Tahiti Petrel, False Killer Whales, Risso’s and Fraser’s Dolphins.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.

Day 5
Thursday 17th October
Tomia, Wakatobi

Our day started after a delicious breakfast as we made our way across the Banda Sea to the archipelago of Wakatobi. Wakatobi is an acronym for the four main islands of Wangi-Wangi, Kaledupa, Tomia, and Binongko that, together with smaller islands, comprise the Tukang Besi Archipelago at the southeastern tip of Sulawesi. The archipelago is renowned for the diversity of its spectacular coral gardens.

Throughout the morning, we heard from Karen and Neil who delivered a fascinating presentation on Volcanoes, followed by Dan who introduced us to the Whales and Dolphins of Indonesia before finishing the morning with an insight into the archipelago's fascinating avian diversity with Jonathon. As lunchtime rolled around our destination for the afternoon also came into view, Tomia. This stunning tropical island was uplifted, creating a sheer cliff fringed by pristine tropical beaches. For the snorkellers, this was paradise. A gentle white sand beach gave way to seagrass beds which in turn morphed into beautiful soft and hard coral gardens. The wreck of a World War II Japanese freighter, now fully enveloped into the reef, was home to a dazzling number of species. Amongst today’s snorkel highlights were a bizarre Persian Carpet Flatworm, Batfish, an Octopus, Broad-clubbed Cuttlefish and Turtles.

For the birders, a landing on Tomia represented an opportunity to catch up with two sought-after endemics, the Wakatobi White-eye and Tukangbesi Sunbird. Both proved straightforward to locate in the scrub and forest near the landing on the southeastern corner of the island. The group also managed to observe Sultan’s Cuckoo-dove, Asian Emerald Dove and Black-naped Fruit-dove alongside Island Monarch and some elusive Black-naped Orioles. Along the coastal flats, the naturalists amongst us enjoyed checking out the forests edge, learning about Pandanus (Screwpine) and searching the strandline for ocean-drifted nuts and seeds.

After a sublime afternoon, we boarded Heritage Adventurer and sailed towards tomorrow’s destination, Buru.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.

Day 6
Friday 18th October
Buru Island

Ahead of us, the intimidating island of Buru stood. Heritage Adventurer came to a halt off the northeast corner of this rarely visited island, and over silky seas, our Zodiacs weaved in through a narrow channel into the shadows of Gunung Tomahu (2147m) and a dramatic 1500m limestone peak flanked by sheer and sharp walls home to impenetrable tropical forest. Alongside a small sandy bay refreshingly cool water was pouring out of the base of the cliff where a few locals were busy doing their laundry.

First to get off were the birders and natural history walkers who landed, before walking up an old road which provided a great vista and opportunity to see some of what Buru had to offer. Buru is home to many endemic birds, and we were fortunate to encounter Buru Golden Bulbul, Buru Friarbird, Buru Flowerpecker and Buru Oriole, as well as regional endemics such as Moluccan Brush Cuckoo and South Moluccan Sunbird. Butterflies abound and the luxuriant vegetation hosted a remarkable variety of invertebrates including the stunning Eastern Red Lacewing, Eastern Tiger, Grass Yellow, Crows, Delicate Blue, Snow Flat and Red-bodied Swallowtail Butterfly. We also observed the world’s largest Jumping Spider, the Heavy Jumping Spider of which we found several male and females, the giant Golden Orb-weaver Spider alongside her diminutive male and sharing the web was a delicate kleptoparasitic spider known as a Dewdrop Spider. One of the highlights of our exploration was finding a lovely Saltwater Crocodile gently floating along the reef.

Those not visiting the island on the walk embarked on a Zodiac cruise, observing local fisherman harvesting Sea Cucumbers then progressing into the shelter of the lagoon to explore the lush mangroves and finding a couple of Saltwater Crocodiles. The Zodiacs crossed the channel to the small village of Pasir Putih where a warm welcome awaited as we experienced yet another hospitable local experience.

After a brilliant island visit, we had lunch on board our trusty expedition vessel before heading to the adjacent reef for a snorkel. Courtney and the team set up a couple of anchored ladder Zodiacs which allowed us to utilise the current to drift along the reef edge, before getting swept over the top with a flush of cool water into the warm inshore waters. Hard corals dominated and calling them home we discovered a Reef Octopus and numerous Green and Hawksbill Turtles, Sweetlips and a Lionfish.

After a superb snorkel we hopped back aboard for an afternoon at sea as we journeyed northeast towards Raja Ampat. During the afternoon, we enjoyed presentations from Frank on birds and reafforestation, Konrad on history and Suzanne on the Spice Islands. For those who enjoyed watching the Ceram Sea pass by, we observed flocks of Streaked Shearwaters, Bulwer’s Petrels and Red-necked Phalaropes and some fascinating ridges of water detectable on Heritage Adventurer’s radar that channelled very fast moving and cold water from the Pacific through the archipelago, a phenomenon most noticeable in this area and previously unseen by any of the Expedition Team.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.

Day 7
Saturday 19th October 2024
Kofiau

Arriving at the fringes of Raja Ampat, Heritage Adventurer anchored between the islands of Taudore and Boo Kecil where we enjoyed a delicious breakfast. The distance travelled overnight meant all of us enjoyed a sleep-in and Zodiacs started running at 0900, first taking the kayakers out, then the birders and nature walkers to Taudore.

The Zodiac cruisers headed south and through a narrow passageway into the lagoon of Pulau Boo Kecil. The channel was as close to paradise as you could imagine with coconut palm-fringed beaches giving way to a tangle of mangroves and backed by stately Casuarina Trees. Inside the lagoon, the shallow waters and white sands hosted a few waders including Far Eastern Curlew, Eurasian Whimbrel and Grey-tailed Tattler. Overhead, Pied Imperial Pigeons whizzed across the sky and Olive Honeyeaters buzzed through the treetops with liquid notes. Out on the sand flats Far Eastern Curlew, Eurasian Whimbrel and Grey-tailed Tattlers fed whilst Greater Crested Terns also made their presence known. Lesser Frigatebirds surveyed the scene from high above the island. Along the mangrove fringe, we saw Mudskippers, Black-tail and White-tail Humbugs and Archerfish all feeding in the shadows.

Meanwhile, on Taudore, the birders and natural history walkers explored the wet tropical forest with lots of She-Oak (Casuarina), Screwpine (Pandanus) and Beach Cabbage. We enjoyed great observations of Island Whistler, Spice and Spectacled Imperial Pigeon, Dusky Megapodes (including their active nest mounds), Little Kingfishers and Olive Honeyeaters. The white sands and crystal-clear waters were a perfect place for our snorkel session, and we enjoyed a fabulous morning paddling along the reef looking at Green and Black Nembrotha Nudibranchs, huge coral bommies, and just soaking in the superb marine diversity.

Over a delicious lunch, we repositioned 30 miles east of the island of Kofiau. We Zodiac cruised to the shore past the adjacent Pulau Deer, where the village fringed the eastern shore, to land. Three choices were available including a birding walk, a general natural history walk and an exploration up to a lake. The birders got off to a great start observing two endemics: Kofiau Paradise Kingfisher and Kofiau Monarch as well as other highlights such as Papuan Eclectus, Red-breasted Pygmy-parrot, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Channel-billed Cuckoo, Helmeted Friarbird, Black-browed Triller and Northern Fantail. Many of the same species were seen by the natural history walkers who also uncovered a plethora of other species from Skinks with electric blue tails to a huge Hawk-moth Caterpillar and Philippine Ground Orchids. We also saw some of the cultivated species on the island such as Pineapple, Betel Nut Palm and Coconuts. The third group enjoyed a stroll through the Coconut plantations up to a forest lake offering great views into the swampy interior of the island.

The journey back to Heritage Adventurer passed close along the fringe of Deer Island and as the sun set, we enjoyed a flurry of excitable children running out to see us and waving along the water’s edge. Small out-riggers paddled out to get a closer view of Heritage Adventurer, which offered superb photo opportunities on the glassy water and a fantastic way to finish the day.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.

Day 8
Sunday 20th October 2024
Wayag and Waigeo

The morning dawned for us in the Northern Hemisphere having crossed the equator overnight. Zodiacs were launched into some testing conditions as we headed inshore to explore the remarkable archipelago of Wayag, often considered the jewel in the crown of the Raja Ampat Regency of West Papua. The Zodiacs spread out, each winding its way through a myriad of islands, exploring small sandy bays and verdant forest and we ogled at the towering limestone karst pinnacles. The birding also proved fruitful with Beach Kingfisher, Violet-necked Lory’s, Great-billed Parrots, Osprey, Mimic and Varied Honeyeater, Metallic and Moluccan Starlings and Sahul Sunbird observed.

The underwater wildlife didn’t disappoint either with glimpses of a Manta Ray and Blacktip Reef Sharks from the Zodiacs, whilst a snorkel from a perfect little beach saw encounters with Long-finned Batfish, a very sleepy Green Turtle, Bumphead Parrotfish, juvenile Titan Triggerfish and six species of Giant Clam. The same delightful sandy beach also proved the starting point for those who fancied the challenge of climbing Mount Pindito. Whilst not that high, the track up was tough but the efforts were well rewarded with panoramic views across this breathtaking archipelago.

Back aboard our trusty expedition vessel, we steamed south back towards the Equator and were treated to a visit by King Neptune and his mermaid assistants. We welcomed all the Pollywogs (sailors who had not crossed the Equator) to the Pool Deck where Neptune had them kiss the fish before taking a plunge into the pool to welcome them into his watery realm. They emerged from the pool fully fledged Shellbacks (a veteran sailor who has crossed the Equator by ship).

During this period, we repositioned to Waigeo, the main island in Raja Ampat where the sheltered Alyui Bay offered some superb snorkelling. A stunning little sandy isthmus allowed us to snorkel over the shallow coral gardens and along a steep wall where the luxuriant vegetation cascaded down to the water’s edge. The soft and hard corals here were like nothing we’d ever seen, and the steep wall plummeted beneath us as the shafts of light danced away into the deep. Giant Barrel Sponges were of particular interest whilst the diversity and abundance of fish and tunicates were outstanding.

After a rest on board, we headed back into the bay for a dusk Zodiac cruise. Some Zodiacs focused more on the birding, picking up an increase in activity as the sun dropped away, with species such as Pinon’s Imperial Pigeon, Nicobar Pigeon and Blyth’s Hornbill putting on a show. Others undertook a bat safari from the Zodiacs finding a variety of species including Bare-backed Fruit-bats. The kayakers equally enjoyed a tranquil passage through the channels and along the steep coastal limestone cliffs. After a fantastic exploration, a torrential shower saw us return to the comforts of Heritage Adventurer.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.

Day 9
Monday 21st October
Waisai

The early bird catches the worm as they say, and for us, this meant a 0330 wake up! The restaurant team had gone above and beyond to have a full spread available to us, so at 0430, we disembarked in the inky blackness to cross the bay to a jetty in Waisai on Waigeo. Waiting for us was a fleet of taxis ready to transport us to the stars of the show this morning, the Birds-of-Paradise. The first to arrive on the jetty made their way to a Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise site and the second group to a Red Bird-of-Paradise lek.

The Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise only displays around dawn, and so our journey continued into the darkness of the jungle on this main island of Raja Ampat. The sealed road turned to a dirt track, the track to something even less well-structured, until finally, it ended at the base of a slope. From here we were on foot. The groups worked their way along the narrow forest trail over streams and tree roots, up and down ridges until finally arriving at the blinds that had been constructed for us to enjoy the display without causing any disturbance. The Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise is a denizen of the dark understory, and its display arena is kept immaculately clean, a good starting point for impressing females. The group then watched in awe as it leapt onto an upright sapling displaying its remarkable central feathers, shaped like an extravagant handlebar moustache and a striking reflection. Facing the canopy its large emerald breast was flared with its yellow back feathering, and its bald blue head was beautifully displayed!

Whilst one group was enjoying the Wilson’s Bird-of-Paradise display the second group was soaking in the energetic endeavours of the Red Bird-of-Paradise, with up to 20 birds bounding around the canopy branches. Females drew in the males who all vied for their attention with wing shivers, parachuting flights, tail flutters and bill caresses. This group were fortunate enough to witness several mating's, with the female clinging on to her branch while the male valiantly tried to balance on her and do the deed! All groups retraced their steps as the humidity and temperature increased and were back enjoying the comforts of our trusty expedition vessel by mid-morning in time for snacks and a chill-out before lunch.

Heritage Adventurer repositioned the short distance to the north end of Friwen Island, a stunning little tropical island, and our aquatic playground this afternoon. The snorkel site stretched along the southwestern edge of the island and produced a plethora of fascinating species from Porcupinefish getting cleaned, to several species of Anemonefish, Turtles and many lovely soft and hard corals including Barrel Sponges. On shore a small group of birders strolled the island finding Grey-tailed Tattler, Varied Honeyeater and a fly-by Palm Cockatoo which rounded off the day nicely.

Back on board we welcomed some new arrivals, including legendary Australian palaeontologist and environmentalist Tim Flannery, and enjoyed a delicious dinner.

© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© L. Rainer, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.

Day 10
Tuesday 22nd October
Misool

We enjoyed a welcome sleep-in and a more leisurely start to the day as Heritage Adventurer arrived along the eastern chain of islands leading away from Misool. Around us, mobs of Lesser Frigatebirds gathered to engage in underwater feeding frenzies with a few terns also joining in the melee.

We boarded our Zodiacs and headed into the labyrinth of islands to explore the waterways, lagoons and channels and admire the remarkable geological forms. Amongst the sharp karst limestone, the Pitcher Plant, Nepenthes misoolensis, eked out a living and we enjoyed, under closer scrutiny, the remarkably evolved leaves that contain a liquid with digestive enzymes in it. The birdlife proved equally interesting with Great-billed Heron fishing in the shallows. We were met by remarkable scenery, and one of the highlights of the cruise was a section of karst decorated with 4,000-year-old Austronesian rock art. The images depicted hunting implements, dolphins, tuna, handprints and geometric shapes.

Continuing through the labyrinth of islands we arrived at a small jetty where, after careful navigation of the shallow waters, we disembarked, and some walked up to the summit of one of the islands. These proved to be among the most spectacular views of the voyage so far, a great reward for a tough climb in heat and humidity. Forest-covered rock islands set amongst light-coloured shallow coral flats, surrounded by blue ocean, were stunning. On the ascent up the boardwalk, we encountered Ant Plants, a fascinating plant in a group of epiphytic myrmecophytes, that grows on trees and has a symbiotic relationship with ants.

After a relaxing lunch on board, we headed a couple of kilometres east to a deserted tropical island which would be our snorkel site for the afternoon. The island, known as Banos Island, was a little piece of paradise for those who explored its white sand. Along the beaches, we found Beach Kingfisher, White-breasted Woodswallows, Torresian Crows, Singing Starlings and Sahul Sunbirds, whilst the strandline revealed a plethora of current-drifted nuts and seeds. Offshore, the arrival of jellyfish stingers in the water made the snorkelling more challenging, but that didn’t stop a variety of interesting species from being recorded including Broadclub Cuttlefish, Double-banded Soapfish, Freckled Goatfish, Beaked Coral Fish, Redfin and Teardrop Butterflyfish, and a brilliant variety of Wrasses including Tubelip, Cerulean, White-banded, Yellow Coris and Pearlescent.

Back on board our trusty expedition vessel we continued eastbound for the mainland coast of West Papua, enjoying the chance to catch up with fellow guests over a tasty dinner.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.

Day 11
Wednesday 23rd October
Momon Peninsula

Today was a quintessential expedition day. Heritage Adventurer cruised down the coast of the Bomberai Peninsula on our quest to find the remarkable Kiti-kiti Waterfall, which erupts from the coast into the Nusalasi Bay Coastal Park and Conservation Area in the Karas District of Fakfak. Aaron, Abham and Oswald launched the first Zodiac to scout the coast with the shore party shortly following. The Zodiacs headed south down the coast and in the process, discovered a beautiful, untouched strip of forest, two small islands and a network of small rocky inlets and beaches to explore. Eventually, the hoped-for waterfall came into view. By this point, several Zodiacs had launched and commenced a longer Zodiac cruise down the coast. What they found was a coastal paradise. The Zodiacs passed through shallow lagoons where over 20 turtles were counted feeding and the channel led us into a stunning mangrove forest offering a great chance to study this unique habitat.

The shore party located a suitable landing spot and on news of this, the first group of birders and nature walkers shuttled to shore, shortly followed by the arrival of the Zodiac cruisers. What greeted us was as close to pristine coastal rainforest as exists anywhere on the planet. A Western Crowned Pigeon, normally a shy and retiring forest bird strutted around almost completely unperturbed by us, something that none of the team had ever witnessed previously. Palm and Sulphur-crested Cockatoos made their presence known in and above the canopy, whilst other species located under the canopy included Common Paradise Kingfisher, Yellow-faced Myna and Ruby-throated Myzomela. The land parties all headed off through an open understory making walking comparatively easy. On the route through the forest, we came across of plethora of fascinating fungi, a huge female tarantula in her burrow, a variety of skinks and several stately trees sporting some impressive Buttress root systems. Most people visited the waterfall where the crystal-clear waters were refreshingly cool. A smaller party continued upstream aiming for a lake, but after pushing through some rougher terrain, we returned towards the landing beach. With everyone back at the landing, we undertook a short Zodiac cruise down to the waterfall and to two small islands festooned with Large Flying Foxes, some even roosting on a small cliff face which is unusual behaviour. The bat activity had also drawn the attention of White-bellied Sea Eagles with three loitering with intent. On the rocky shore beneath the bats, we found several breeding Black-naped Terns feeding offspring. After a spectacular morning, we headed back to Heritage Adventurer for lunch.

During the afternoon, the Zodiacs shuttled a keen group of birders and naturalists ashore again to continue their searching. The observations were great with South Papuan Pitta, Olive-crowned Flowerpecker, Black-sided Robin and more. The snorkellers headed south for a more technical snorkel in and out of the Zodiacs. Despite a few stinger jellyfish in the water, everyone enjoyed it, rounding off an incredible expedition day of exploring a pristine stretch of tropical coast.

In the late afternoon, Neil gave a brilliant presentation of insights and anecdotes into filming Birds-of-Paradise in New Guinea, which concluded with perfect timing as the large Flying Fox roost started to awaken. With the fire-orange backdrop of the sun, we watched as an estimated 50,000 Flying Foxes emerged heading north and south along the coast for a night of foraging. A spectacular way to end what had been a truly exceptional expedition day.

© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© D. Brown, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.

Day 12
Thursday 24th October
Triton Bay, Papua

What. A. Day! There was eager anticipation in the air as the day dawned and the first Zodiacs launched into the half-light to assess our options. The focus, Whale Sharks! Breakfast was an early one, and as we munched away, news came in over the radios that there were Whale Sharks around not one, but two, of the fishing bagans.

Triton Bay is nestled on the western coast of West Papua and here, fishing bagans are anchored offshore. These giant out-riggers first drop their nets at dusk and use bright lights to draw in fish overnight. Bit by bit, they slowly raise the nets and reduce the battery of light until only the central part of the net is illuminated, before closing it around the gathered fish. This aggregation of small fish in turn attracts the Whale Sharks. Formerly they were considered a nuisance, but now local fishermen have recognised their value from a nature-based tourism perspective.

Departing Heritage Adventurer, we made our way to the bagans, approaching cautiously and getting our first glimpses of giant mouths feeding at the surface. Around us, Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphins had also gathered to feed and overhead, Lesser Frigatebirds were pilfering all they could from the surface. Each group had an eight-minute rotation in the water with repeats available for those that wanted, some chose to view from the Zodiac which offered a great opportunity to fully appreciate just how large these gentle giants are.

Throughout the morning, we estimated that we encountered eight Whale Sharks, the largest of which was around 8m long and each beautifully patterned with spots and stripes. The Whale Sharks were completely unperturbed by us, their attention focused entirely on eating. For those in the water, the reduced visibility meant that out of nowhere a massive creature would suddenly be right next to you and a huge mouth appeared to be heading your way. Thankfully the only thing on the menu was the tiny bait fish, as Whale Sharks have an incredibly peaceful nature. It was a truly awe-inspiring experience, topped off with the addition of the dolphins seen taking the fish the sharks didn’t get, not to mention hearing their clicks and whistles!

Back on board Heritage Adventurer, we sailed the short distance down the coast to Teluk Triton Kaimana, an inlet peppered with limestone islets and a forest-clad coast. After lunch, the Zodiacs shuttled everyone ashore at Aeva where there were options for strolling the white sand beach, heading out for birding or relocating to the reef edge for a snorkel. The birders had a fruitful time observing multiple species, with the highlight being Blyth’s Hornbill. Offshore, the swell added an extra challenge for the snorkellers, but they still found several species along a diverse reef edge.

In the late afternoon, the sea conditions were becoming rougher, and after a full day out, many opted for a more leisurely few hours aboard. However, four Zodiacs did head into the upper reaches of the inlet to explore the tranquil waters and their surrounding forests. Here they found Sulphur-crested and Palm Cockatoos, Papuan Eclectus Parrots, Azure Kingfisher, some huge Blyth’s Hornbills, thousands of jellyfish and beautiful palm-strewn forests interspersed with an incredible number of Cycads and festooned in Pitcher Plants. As dusk fell, several bats started to emerge and forage, from many tiny microbats to Bare-backed Fruit Bats and a single Flying Fox. The final bird of the evening was an owl, most likely a Rufous Owl, that glided across a narrow channel and melted into the darkness of the forest.

© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.

Day 13
Friday 25th October
Etna Bay

Heritage Adventurer sat serenely at dawn at the mouth of Etna Bay. Around us, a pristine forest stretched down to the water’s edge. To our north lay a dramatic gateway into a huge natural harbour, an expedition playground. At first light, the birders departed for the coast. Arriving at the river mouth, the hoped-for trail was now overgrown, so in true expedition style we took the opportunity to explore the river itself. Over the course of the next few hours, we had a superb time birding along the forest edge from the Zodiacs with highlights including exceptional views of Lesser Bird-of-Paradise and several Blue-Black Kingfishers.

At 0730 the remainder of the Zodiacs launched and headed north, deep into the harbour. It was about 6 miles to the narrow entrance where an uplifted ridge had split, allowing a watery passageway to be created. Forest covered both sides and we manoeuvred through the passageway into the inner harbour. Here, tranquil green water reflected the verdant forest and provided the perfect place for us to explore. The forest edge teemed with butterflies including Oakblues and Paperwings, a huge boulder harboured the largest Huperzia Clubmosses we had ever seen, and pink and white Philippine Ground Orchids bloomed. We noted Hooded Crows, Long-tailed Honey Buzzards, Moustached Treeswift and Papuan Eclectus Parrots. Whilst amongst the mangroves we found Great-billed Heron, Marsh Sandpiper, Greenshank and Whimbrel alongside a great mix of terns in the bay. Above us, the limestone ridge towered high and on the northern side of the harbour, a stunning waterfall cascaded down to the water's edge.

A handy little bay allowed us to disembark and get a much closer view alongside the refreshing and fragrant air that came with the cascade. In the bay, several Zodiacs encountered Australian Humpback Dolphins, a species usually found in turbid inshore waters. Incredibly the local guide thought that fewer than 50 tourists had ever visited this area before, making it a proper pioneering and expedition morning. All Zodiacs finally reunited at Heritage Adventurer after an enjoyable day of birding, kayaking and exploring.

The afternoon was a chance to relax, and we all examined the back of our eyelids before lectures commenced. Konrad started by rounding off his historical overview of the area and Matt gave us a rundown on marine fish. The afternoon was interspersed with a nature highlight when a Blossom Bat (Syconycteris sp) was found roosting on one of the poolside lamps!

© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.

Day 14
Saturday 26th October
Agats, Asmat

Agats is the administrative centre for the Asmat region, an expansive area of lowland swamp forest in Papua and a place rarely visited by outsiders. Heritage Adventurer crept up the river cautiously with our Captain keeping a close eye on the water depth. Here, huge volumes of sediment flood out of the rivers leading to a very shallow coast. With the tide in our favour and Heritage Adventurer expertly piloted, we arrived off Agats at 0730. The Zodiacs were launched and everyone embarked with eager anticipation as to what we would experience.

Making our way across the mighty Sungai Asewet River, a flotilla of canoes voyaged out from the opposite bank to meet us with over 100 warriors chanting in a display of cultural pride and unity. Our Zodiacs were surrounded by canoes and even boarded by warrior Asmat; it was an overwhelming welcome to this remarkable community. Disembarking onto a rickety wooden jetty we were ushered to the huge longhouse (known locally as a Yeu), an impressive communal building we would later enter, but not before an unforgettable welcome ceremony. Sitting along a raised wooden walkway we overlooked an open arena in front of us where women lined up before the men arrived carrying Bis poles. These tall and elaborately carved poles were used in headhunting ceremonies to honour ancestors and are carved with designs that tell the story of the individual's life. They are first erected on a stand before traditionally being destroyed to release the spirits. There was so much to take in as everywhere we looked there were people and action.

After an exhilarating introduction, we were welcomed into the longhouse where local artisans had beautiful products on offer, from shields and drums to bows and arrows and carvings, with many pieces going to new homes around the world. With the first round of action and shopping over, many returned to the comforts of Heritage Adventurer for a mid-morning bite, some aircon and the chance to relax before our next adventure.

At 1110 the second visit to the township commenced. We explored Agats visiting a superb and fascinating museum full of incredible artefacts and interpretive information. There were further opportunities to make purchases with highly talented craftsmen showcasing their wares. Even the walk back along the stilted paths proved fruitful, with plenty of Mangrove Snakes hunting Mudskippers as the tide ebbed and a plethora of Dragonflies to ogle at. Back at the jetty, we prepared to return to Heritage Adventurer, now several miles away out in the bay. Once back on board we relaxed with a cold drink and tried to assimilate the vivid experiences we enjoyed today.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.

Day 15
Sunday 27th October
Omanesep, Asmat

The Omanesep Village is a hidden gem nestled deep within the complex delta of the Faret River system, which snakes and winds its way through dense and pristine swamp forest for as far as the eye can see. Today, this village provided us with an experience none of us will ever forget.

Once again Aaron ensured an early start to work with the tides and beat the heat. With all Zodiacs launched we commenced the journey towards land which, from Heritage Adventurer, represented a thin sliver on the horizon! After half an hour and eight nautical miles, we arrived at the river mouth where Oswald was waiting for us in a local boat. The next stage of the journey was an additional 4.5 miles upstream as we cruised up the forest-fringed river and its large sweeping meanders. Various parrots and a Blue-winged Kookaburra flashed by and eventually, after Heritage Expeditions longest single Zodiac ride ever, the outline of the village started to form out of the forest ahead of us.

Oswald gave us instruction to ease off the power and regroup in the river and with that, a flotilla of dugout canoes emerged from various river channels and inlets into the forest, decorated with bold patterns and sporting impressive head adornments of Cassowary and Egret feathers. Using long, elegant paddles and displaying incredible balancing skills they manoeuvred their canoes at speed around us chanting and beating Tifa drums in a spine-tingling display of skill, strength and intimidation. The canoes encircled us, the chief boarding one and standing proudly on the bow box. Eventually, the warriors broke away paddling into the edge of the village and the Zodiacs approached a small wooden jetty where we disembarked onto the stilted walkway. The entire village is stilted to accommodate the seasonal floodwaters. Close to the landing site we visited an exceptional longhouse, which was to be the site of the local performance.

In front of us, we witnessed several truly incredible dances play out to the beats of the Tifa drums. According to Asmat mythology, the figure Fumeripits was the first woodcarver, and the first drummer. Drums are carved from a single piece of wood (often Mangrove) and decorated with headhunting symbols before being topped with monitor lizard skin. The drum’s shape is crafted with great care and tuning is achieved by shrinking the drum skin using heat from a fire. Along the back of the arena, traditional shields were carefully placed, and the owner of each explained which ancestor the shield represented. The shields are believed to hold extreme power which can control the owner, offer spiritual protection during warfare and help with hunting. The final performance involved the Asmat spirit mask, Pakaian Roh, huge woven masks that covered the entire body and adorned with Sago tassels. These are designed to help people connect with their deceased ancestors, and once used, they are taken into the forest where the masks are left to decay under a Banyan or Sago tree, these trees then becoming sacred.

At the end of the performances, the floor opened to us and the opportunity to purchase some of the stunning artworks was made possible, including 6-foot shields and giant carved crocodiles! By 1000 we had all reembarked the Zodiacs and were once again snaking our way downstream, this time with an ebbing tide. After an hour we arrived at the gangway following an epic return 40-kilometre Zodiac cruise, the longest Zodiac transit that Heritage Expeditions has ever made!

Delicious food, cold drinks, showers and aircon all called, and following an early lunch, we enjoyed some well-deserved rest. Later in the day, we were treated to two fabulous presentations, firstly from Karen and Neil on New Guinea a Cultural Kaleidoscope and then by Tim with Wallace’s line and Adventures in New Guinea’s untamed frontiers.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
Day 16
Monday 28th October
At Sea

Today was a day at sea, and for many of us, a welcome chance to enjoy a lie-in, review our photos, swim, have a massage and take it easy after the incredible experience we had in the Asmat region. There was still plenty on offer though, and in the morning, Lou presented A Protected Planet and hosted Suzanne, Tim and Abraham as a panel to provide insights into the challenges faced in conserving biodiversity, which prompted big questions and interesting discussion. Next up Matt delivered Fish are Cousins delving into the evolution of fish and our evolving relationship with them. During the afternoon Konrad finished his trilogy of lectures with The Forgotten Pacific War. We enjoyed a delicious afternoon tea, before enjoying a presentation from Heritage Expeditions co-owner, and our Expedition Leader, Aaron Russ, with Heritage – the story so far.

Day 17
Tuesday 29th October
Thursday Islands

Overnight Heritage Adventurer sailed south across the Torres Strait and at 0715, we arrived at the sheltered anchorage between Thursday Island and Horn Island. These waters are peppered with reefs and shoals and make navigation challenging, imagine what it must have been like for the early explorers without satellite imagery. The Torres Strait Islands consist of approximately 274 islands, with varying sizes and populations. Among these are several inhabited islands, while many others are uninhabited or used for specific purposes like agriculture, conservation, or military activities. Thursday Island, known as Waiben, is part of the Australian Torres Strait Islands and has been inhabited by the Aboriginal people of Melanesian descent for thousands of years.

Once we had cleared immigration, we split into groups with some of us exploring Horn Island and others exploring Thursday Island. Featuring a rich Melanesian culture, the islands are also significant for their World War II history. On Horn Island, we explored the museum and had a small tour of the village while others opted for a birding opportunity where finds included Radjah Shelduck, Blue-winged Kookaburra, Mangrove Gerygone and Leaden Flycatcher. Small groups of Spangled Drongos were even arriving off the sea from New Guinea.

On Thursday Island we were treated to a fabulous cultural performance and then explored the town and island, including some of the significant World War II sites. After lunch on board our trusty expedition vessel, we had the chance to relax or visit the other of the two islands. Once again, the incredible arts and performances stood out.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.

Day 18
Wednesday 30th October
At Sea

Our final day at sea was jam-packed! The day started with Rachel talking about Current Affairs: The Life of Ocean Drifters, which gave us an insight into how ocean currents move things around our planet, from plankton to plastic and seeds. Dan then followed with a fascinating insight into birds, feathers, flight and migration with his talk on Winged Wonders. After a break to hand in snorkel gear and enjoy one last delicious lunch, the afternoon kicked off with our disembarkation briefing, followed by Tim on climate change called Facing the Future. Karen and Neil rounded off a day of learning with another entertaining presentation entitled Making the Magic, all about their adventures in wildlife filmmaking.

The evening was one to remember as our Captain bid us farewell, and Cathy rounded off an incredible voyage with a sublime final slide show encapsulating the best moments of what was truly a remarkable voyage.

Day 19
Thursday 31st October
Port Moresby

Our Indonesian Explorer voyage ended as we woke to the sight of Port Moresby. We enjoyed one last fabulous breakfast with our newfound friends and disembarked on to the quay, waved goodbye to the wonderful Heritage Adventurer, dedicated crew and knowledgeable team and made our way to our next adventure to conclude a voyage never to be forgotten.

© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.
© C. Finch, Heritage Expeditions.