HA221011: Indonesian Explorer: Raja Ampat to Papua New Guinea

INDONESIAN EXPLORER #HA221011

ON HERITAGE ADVENTURER

11^th - 25^th October 2022

Day 1 - 11^th October 2022
Denpasar, Bali

Having arrived from all corners of the globe, excited expeditioners meet up in Denpasar, Bali, where we join some of our expedition team for an evening meal and some important information regarding our voyage is shared.

Day 2 - 12^th October 2022
Bali

After a hearty breakfast we set off for the day on our Balinese adventure. While driving through the busy streets on the way to our first location, our local guides gave us an explanation of typical life on the island, including an introduction to Balinese Hinduism, the main religion and cultural influence here. Central is the idea of balance in life: between good and evil; day and night; anger and love; joy and sorrow. We saw evidence of this everywhere in the form of the black and white chequered cloths, saput poleng, that drape statues, buildings and even trees. This symbolises the co-existence of opposites and the ultimate goal of harmony.

Bali is an incredibly spiritual island. On some streets it seemed every other building was a temple and our first stop was one of the most famous. As we stepped from our coaches we were all issued with sarongs to cover our legs and exposed calves, even if we were wearing long trousers! Batuan Temple was founded a thousand years ago and built in traditional Balinese style, with a series of buildings and pavilions in a large compound. All were constructed of red brick and decorated with fabulous carvings and statues of gods, priests and spirits fashioned from local volcanic stone. It was an impressive sight.

We then drove to the small village of Lantangidung, surrounded by rice paddies. Many of us took photos of the rice threshing in the nearby fields. Others concentrated their photography on the orchids and butterflies in the neat village gardens. The spiritual theme of our day continued, with richly decorated family temples in each home we visited. This was an artisan village, with painters, woodcarvers and makers of kris daggers. In one home a lady was cutting a large roll of sticky rice and palm sugar into thin slices and laying them out to dry in the sun. She offered us all a chance to taste one. They were delicious - sweet-salty and satisfyingly chewy.

It was then a short drive to the Royal Pita Maha hotel near Ubud, and a delicious buffet lunch in their restaurant overlooking the spectacular forested gorge of the Ayung River.

After lunch we all spent some time exploring the town of Ubud, the cultural heart of Bali. This included the painting museum, full of contemporary art depicting both mythological and natural scenes in exquisite detail. Ubud is also home to a royal family and we explored their intricate palace, built as a series of open pavilions, with statues and fine carvings set amongst lush gardens. A stroll through the busy streets of the town concluded our tour and we headed back to the tranquillity of our hotel in Sanur, with its lovely Balinese water gardens by the sea.

Day 3 - 13^th October 2022
Bali to Flores

This morning we all took a flight from Bali to Labuan Bajo on the island of Flores, and then to our hotel with lush tropical gardens on the seafront, where we settled in for a two night stay. After relaxing for a few hours, we had a fascinating presentation on Komodo Dragons by Neil and Rod to prepare us for tomorrow's excursion, and then enjoyed a sunset and fabulous buffet dinner on the sandy beach.

During the day the birders had their first introduction to Indonesian birding, with a bus tour to some local wetlands, where large numbers of waders, herons and egrets were spotted, along with a Moluccan Scops-owl and Mees's Nightjar.

Day 4 - 14^th October 2022
Komodo Island

We set off early from Labuan Bajo in three powerful motor launches on our adventure to meet the dragons of Komodo Island. The wakes behind our boats sparkled in the early morning sun as we cut through glassy seas under a perfect blue sky. It was good to be on the water.

Within an hour we were approaching Komodo Island, with its dry yellow hills rising from the sea in a series of cones and ridges. We disembarked on the large concrete jetty at park HQ, and almost as soon as we arrived a large dragon wandered slowly through the main compound - a very promising start to our visit. We divided into smaller groups, depending on the length of walk we chose.

As we set off through the woodland it was noticeable how much drier this was than Bali. These islands have some of the least rainfall in all of Indonesia. Within the first few minutes we spotted a Timor Deer and a wild boar, the favourite prey of Komodo Dragons. And a little further on, our second dragon, a juvenile maybe 5 or 6 years old. It walked straight down the path towards us, completely unconcerned by our presence, and veered off just before meeting us. Throughout our walks, each group was accompanied by a ranger who ensured that we and the dragons never came too close to each other.

Just beside the path we found a large mound, about 4 metres wide and 1.5 high - a dragon nest. Originally built by a scrub fowl to nest in, a female dragon would have them taken over and extended, to lay her 20-30 eggs deep underground for their 7-8 month incubation.

Up in the trees, Wallacean Drongos were common throughout our walk and a pair of Yellow-crested Cockatoos entertained us by popping in and out of holes in an old palm tree.

The birders spotted a number of regional endemics such as the Orange-footed Scrubfowl, Pacific Koel, Black-naped Oriole, Flores White-eye and Flame-breasted Sunbird.

The longer walk took the group up a small hill to a spectacular viewpoint, looking over the rolling forested hills to the bay where we had arrived and beyond to the eroded volcanic landscapes of nearby islands. As we descended we came across some large holes in a mud bank used by the dragons at night. This helps prevent them losing body heat during the hours of darkness. It felt like we were gaining a real insight into overall Komodo Dragon behaviour.

Finally, returning to park HQ, all the groups were able to spend time with a very large dragon lying in the shade of a tree at the head of the beach. Being cold blooded, they regulate their body temperature by basking in the sun to warm up in the mornings and later seek out shade to prevent overheating.

After a brief stop for some refreshing coconut juice and a few souvenirs we departed for Pink Beach for a picnic lunch and snorkelling. The pink tinge to the beach is caused by the shells of tiny marine creatures called foraminifera. With its gently sloping sand it was an excellent base from which to explore the shallow waters, full of soft and hard coral and tropical fish, including Sergeant Majors, Butterfly Fish, Clownfish and a large Puffer Fish.

Returning to Labuan Bajo in our fast launches, we later enjoyed dinner on the spectacular top deck of the city's newest hotel overlooking the water. As we dined, the lights of Heritage Adventurer appeared in the harbour. We were all very much looking forward to boarding in the morning.

Day 5 - 15^th October 2022
Boarding in Labuan Bajo

It was short coach ride from our hotel down to the port at Labuan Bajo to board the Zodiacs for the transfer across the calm bay to Heritage Adventurer. We were all delighted to be on board, and to be able to settle in our cabins for the voyage ahead.

As we sailed through the tropical Indonesian waters we had our mandatory lifeboat drill followed by an expedition briefing from expedition leader Aaron Russ, Captain Hans Soderholm and other officers of Heritage Adventurer. This was followed later in the day by briefings on Zodiacs and snorkelling. From the bridge the first Red-necked Phalaropes of the voyage were spotted, as well as Bulwer's Petrel, Red-footed Boobies and Brown Boobies.

After a presentation on tomorrow's destination of Wakatobi, by Thomas, we enjoyed welcome cocktails and canapés with the Captain and Expedition Team, before dinner.

Day 6 - 16^th October 2022
Wakatobi

This morning we approached the Wakatobi Islands at the far south eastern corner of Sulawesi, renowned for their rich marine life. The ship anchored just off the island of Hoga, our destination for today.

Once ashore most of us chose to explore on land before immersing ourselves in the underwater life. The birders and naturalist groups wandered through the forest using the paths established for an international research facility, Operation Wallacea. Sadly, the project had ended a few years ago and the research buildings and accommodation bungalows lay abandoned and overrun by the tropical vegetation - but not abandoned by the large Tokay Geckos that now made them their home. The island was made of uplifted coral and deep holes had been eroded in its surface, making us glad of the constructed paths. Land crabs scuttled away and down their burrows as we approached. In the trees we saw an Island Monarch, Grey-streaked Flycatcher, Black-naped Fruit Dove and Olive-backed Sunbird.

The third group headed off on a longer walk to the village to meet the local people, who were as enthusiastic to greet us as we were to see their island world.

Back at the beach, it was then off to explore the rich underwater world. Meadows of seagrass grew in the shallows, with large Chocolate Chip Star fish resting in sandy patches between the grass. Beyond that, still in less than a metre of water, grew beautiful clusters of hard and soft coral, acting as shelters for many fish as well as support for feather stars, using their outstretched arms to filter feed in the gentle current. A Banded Sea Krait, a highly venomous sea snake, was spotted and photographed hunting amongst the coral. Fish of all shapes, sizes and colour darted along the reef, while waving anemones, Giant Clams, and Christmas Tree Worms were anchored to it

Back on board for lunch, we then spent the afternoon relaxing while navigating the Banda Sea, and were treated to fascinating presentations on 'Island Magic - Wallacea' from Rod and 'Sultans of Spice' from Suzanne.

Day 7 - 17^th October 2022
Buru Island

Today's visit to Buru Island was to be the first of any international passenger ship to the remote village of Pasir Putih, so a unique day for both us and the people of this island. As soon as Heritage Adventurer arrived offshore we were greeted by a flotilla of small launches that escorted the first Zodiac to land.

It was standing room only on the white sand beach where around 1,000 locals from 6 surrounding villages waited to greet our Zodiacs as we skimmed over the smooth blue water towards this picture-perfect island paradise with its nodding palms, lush rolling hills and backdrop of jagged, jungled-capped ancient rock, piercing the clouds and looking like an undiscovered Tahiti.

We were welcomed ashore with specially created banners, school children and local dignitaries and chiefs, including the Chief of Regency, Mrs. Safitri, who had travelled 6 hours to personally preside over the event. Excited guests met excited locals.

Following a traditional welcome dance in which Mrs. Safitri took part, our Expedition Leader Aaron Russ thanked South Buru Island and its charming, friendly people for our unforgettable welcome and hospitality. Then it was time for sampling traditional fare, dancing and learning everything about island life and culture with new found friends. Many of us were the subject of a celebrity level of selfies.

While all this cultural activity was taking place in the village, the birders and naturalists explored the islands edge along an old logging road, spotting giant spiders, a pair of fast but unidentified flying lorikeets and a single endemic Buru Flying Fox. Twenty-six species of bird were seen, including Amboyna Cuckoo-Dove, Red-cheeked Parrot, two Black Eagles, Lesser Coucal, Black Sunbird and the endemic Buru Friarbird.

Once at sea - an incredible 750 Red-necked Phalaropes were seen as well as our first Tropical and Streaked Shearwaters and more boobies.

The day would have one last surprise in store as the Captain's call of "whales" saw us making our ways to the Bridge, Observation Deck and Observation Lounge where we were treated to an incredible aquatic display of up to 20 Sperm Whales as we sailed towards Wayag in Raja Ampat.

Day 8 - 18^th October 2022
Wayag Island

During the morning, as Heritage Adventurer navigated to our next destination, we enjoyed lectures on 'The Birds Head Seascape' by Abraham and 'Filming Birds of Paradise' by Neil. Then soon after, we crossed the equator. We were treated to a ceremony in which Neptune emerged from the ship's swimming pool to grant permission to cross the equator for those who had never previously done so at sea. After being slapped across the cheeks by a wet fish the "equatorial virgins" all leapt into the pool. At the exact moment of crossing, the ship's siren sounded for a full minute and we raised a toast with a potent and spicy rum cocktail.

The island we were heading for was Wayag, in the Raja Ampat Regency of West Papua, about as close as it's possible to come to a tropical paradise. At the heart of the island was a calm lagoon, surrounded by spectacularly carved limestone karst pinnacles, all covered in tangled, tropical forest. During the afternoon we explored the twists and turns of this dramatic landscape in the Zodiacs, each turn revealing more jaw dropping scenery. A flock of 12 Violet-necked Lorries were seen flying acrobatically over one of the peaks, as well as a Torresian Crow and groups of Metallic and Moluccan Starlings.

Some of the more energetic also scrambled to the top of one of the pinnacles. Despite the tough climb it was well worth the effort, for the truly stupendous view from the top - azure waters, white sandy beaches and spectacular towering pinnacles all around us. Back down on the soft sandy beach on which we'd landed, we all enjoyed a snorkel amongst some of the limestone islands, swimming over a vast "forest" of delicate stagshorn coral and a colony of giant clams. A relaxing end to an afternoon immersed in stunning natural beauty.

Day 9 - 19^th October 2022
Waisai, Waigeo Island

Today's start was an early one, with Zodiacs departing in the dark at 0430, for the jetty at Waisai on the island of Waigeo. We were attempting to get into position to view Birds-of-Paradise just as the sun was rising and the birds were displaying at their most intense.

A short taxi ride in a fleet of SUVs took us to the edge of the forest to meet our local guides, who escorted us through the darkness along forest paths. We divided into two groups, one aiming for a Red Bird-of-Paradise lek, the other aiming for a Wilson's Bird-of-Paradise display ground. The latter was a longer and more arduous trek.

During the walk light levels rose and, as the night receded, slowly the calls of frogs were replaced by an atmospheric dawn chorus of forest birds. Finally, the Wilson's group arrived at the hide and found a male calling loudly, high in the trees. Eventually he flew down to the ground, providing excellent opportunities to photograph this little jewel of the forest. A little later a female appeared and the male displayed briefly for her - unsuccessfully this time! Once she had departed he started to tidy up his display ground to repeat it all tomorrow, plucking a few green leaves from nearby saplings and picking up debris from the forest floor. What a fabulous range of behaviour we'd witnessed from this beautiful little Bird-of-Paradise.

Meanwhile, the group at the Red Bird-of-Paradise lek had watched three males displaying in the tree tops, calling loudly and shaking their colourful plumage, as they sought to outdo each other in competition for the attention of females. But none appeared. But for us, a successful morning all round!

The walk back through the forest in the light seemed far shorter than the journey out and we were welcomed back to the start with tea and freshly prepared banana fritters. The birders continued spotting along the road edge, bringing their total count for the day to 31 species, including Gurney's Eagle, Blyth's Hornbill, a very vocal Rufous-bellied Kookaburra and Eclectus and Red-billed Parrots before our short Zodiac ride back to Heritage Adventurer.

Guests opting for a sleep in enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and snorkel excursion to the underwater wonderland and coral gardens of Pulau Friwin. At sea there were more Streaked and Wedge-tailed Shearwaters and our first Long Tailed Skua.

Day 10 - 20^th October 2022
Manokwari and Arfak Mountains

Heritage Adventurer entered Manokwari Harbour just before dawn and for those off to the Arfak Mountains it was a short Zodiac ride to port, where a fleet of Hilux 4WDs whisked us up into the mountains in search of Birds-of-Paradise and Bowerbirds. At about 1500 metres the air was fresher than at the coast and the forest distinctly different, with relatively open understory and pleasant, though steep walking.

We split into small groups to trek to the various hides, overlooking display grounds. Birds seen included the Magnificent, Superb, Western Parotia and Brown Sicklebill Birds-of-Paradise, as well as the Vogelkop Bowerbird. The latter builds larger bowers than any other species, hut like structures well over a metre high, with a broad opening. The male lays out decorations in front of the structure - anything from black, blue or red fruits to plastic bottle tops. Different birds specialised in different decorations, with everything very precisely placed in piles to maximise their effect. It's surely one of the greatest architectural wonders of the animal kingdom, and found only in these mountains, so this was a very special opportunity indeed.

A few were lucky to encounter other bird species like the Capped White-eye, Olive-crowned Flowerpecker, Vogelkop Melidictes, White-shouldered Fairywren and Mountain Owlet-nightjar. As the day warmed, bird activity subsided and everyone returned to the port.

The urban adventurers toured the city by small coach, led by a tourism guide and accompanied by English Literature students from the Papua State University. Planning first to walk, we were whisked uphill to the University with extensive grounds and impressive buildings housing the faculty of Economics, Business and Arts, housing for lecturers and students, and were just about to commence the forest walk when the rain began. Back downtown the sun reappeared as we explored the fish market with a significant array of species, proudly displayed. Fruit, chilli's, super fresh green vegetables shared the spaces in perfect pyramids with tomatoes - enticing anyone to buy. And just around the corner a general market of combs, shoes and clothes jostled with rice, spice and anything else you would ever need.

Back up the hill, we headed into the forest in our coach. A long leaf-littered track led on and on, through dense and mature forest. Narrowing further, a vehicle coming the opposite direction made us wonder how we would pass but our nimble driver slipped through without a scratch, and around the next corner a fallen tree looked like the end of the road - yet again our bus slipped just through the gap and we continued deeper into the forest. A slight branch in the track and we were invited to walk from here - we wondered where we walking to.

The Protected Forest of Wosi Rendani (PFWR) was established as a 100-hectare reserve in about 1580 by Dutch interests. It has been added to and is currently 383 hectares of forest, which protects a significant water catchment for the city, and provides natural cooling as the 'lungs' of the city, and is also a significant base for research. Within its protection are historical sites with special reference to caves utilised during WWII.

Before we all departed Manokwari there were speeches, drumming and dancing at the port from local people to celebrate our visit. We all felt like rock star celebrities, as so many photos and selfies were taken of us by the locals with a great deal of smiles and laughter all round.

Day 11 - 21^st October 2022
Cenderawasih Bay

What a day! Whale Sharks early morning, a vibrant coral reef before lunch, song and dance in a coastal village in the afternoon.

We set off at 0730 in the Zodiacs with great anticipation, aiming for a fishing bagan in Cenderawasih Bay to which Whale Sharks are attracted by left-over fish. We were not disappointed. We took it in turns to swim up to a single whale shark hanging vertically in the water and sucking in small fish being fed to it by the fishermen above. It ignored our presence completely so we were all able to take great photos.

When we had all spent plenty of time with this gentle giant a second appeared and repeatedly swam amongst us. The two seemed to take it in turns to come and feed, providing a truly memorable wildlife encounter. Above us dozens of Greater and Lesser Frigatebirds dived to the water surface with precision aerial agility, to pick up scraps of fish. What an incredible experience!

After a short coffee break back at the ship, we visited the beautiful soft sandy beach at Kali Lemon, a rustic local homestay backed by hills clothed in lush tropical rainforest. Overhead flew several noisy Blyth's Hornbills. In the shallows a meadow of seagrass waved in the gentle current. It was inhabited by long sea cucumbers, trawling the detritus on the bottom for food with feathery tentacles. A little further out we found a collection of massive giant clams, all brightly patterned, wedged into the coral rock. Finally, after a few minutes swimming, we found ourselves floating over a reef with a fabulous diversity of colourful hard corals and many small fish. It was a snorkelLer's delight.

After lunch, our final activity for the day was a visit to the small community of Kwatisore, on the shore of Cenderawasih Bay. Here a local band of guitars and drums with accompanying singers greeted the Zodiacs. Then we were treated to a dance by village youngsters which represented the flamboyant displays of Birds-of-Paradise. We had time to explore the village, while the band continued to play and some of us joined in the dancing. Around the village we saw Hooded Butcherbirds, more Blyth's Hornbills flying along a ridge line and a couple of Glossy-mantled Manucodes

Finally, after a lot of laughter and smiles, we waved the villagers goodbye and headed back to Heritage Adventurer for our evening recap of the day's activities and dinner. What an action-packed day it had been!

Day 12 - 22^nd October 2022
Biak Island

The birders were first off the ship this morning, just before dawn, in search of the many Biak Island endemics. For the rest of us it was a trip to visit Biak's Japanese Binsari Cave, where thousands of Japanese soldiers had held out against American troops in WWII, until the cave complex was bombed and all inside were killed.

Today the site contains a small museum, with weapons, clothing and other artefacts recovered from the cave, as well as a collection of skulls and limb bones of some of the victims. We entered the cave itself through a huge hole in the rock, surrounded by tangled jungle. Inside the cavern is huge and gloomy, with large roots from the trees above penetrating the darkness. Nothing remains of its military past, but it was not hard to imagine the desperate situation of the soldiers inside, almost 70 years ago.

After the cave we visited the fish and vegetable market in town where there was a wide selection of fresh fish of all sizes, including many tuna. The vegetable stalls were a riot of colour, from the large variety of healthy fresh produce on offer. Both the vegetables and the fish were stacked in very neat piles, creating a geometric pattern on the stalls, clearly designed to attract the attention of potential buyers.

The birders had a successful morning, spotting 28 species, including nine endemics such as the Biak Whistler, Biak Flycatcher, Biak Leaf Warbler, Biak White-eye, Biak Long-tailed Starling, Biak Red-capped Flowerpecker and the Yellow-bibbed Fruit Dove.

We all returned to out trusty expedition ship for a coffee and a brief snack, while Heritage Adventurer re-positioned to the Rusbasbedas Island for another incredible snorkel. Off a soft sand beach backed by coconut palms, the water fell away steeply into the depths, shading abruptly from the turquoise shallows into deep blue. Along this reef edge we saw large shoals of fish patrolling back and forth, including small parties of Moorish Idols, in their smart stripes of yellow, white and black.

Around the islands, 12 Orange-fronted Fruit Doves, a Shining Flycatcher, Torresian Crow and a Flying Fox were spotted.

A short Zodiac ride back to the boat for lunch and another afternoon of fascinating presentations, including Courtney's 'Relationships On The Coral Reef' and Fiona's 'Cetaceans'. Today also turned out to be the best sea birding to date, 14 species in all, including 580 Streaked Shearwaters, 21 Wedge-tailed Shearwaters, 5 species of tern, 3 Long-tailed Skuas and 5 Tahiti Petrels.

Day 13 - 23^rd October 2022
Jayapura and Lake Sentani

A welcome lie in this morning and a sumptuous brunch at 0900, before arrival in the harbour of Jayapura, the capital of Papua. With high-rise buildings set against the green hills, this felt like a city. A short Zodiac ride took us to a fleet of waiting coaches and, with a police escort to clear the traffic for us, we set off on the half hour journey to Lake Sentani.

The sparkling waters of the lake lie amongst the verdant hills of the Cyclops Mountains Strict Nature Reserve, and have a long meandering shoreline. In the centre of the lake sit 22 small islands, one of which we set out to visit on a flotilla of small boats, passing large numbers of Whiskered and Common Terns perching on some electricity lines over the lake.

As we arrived at Assey village we were greeted by a group of traditionally dressed singers who welcomed each boat load of visitors into their community with beautiful songs and drums. Once we'd all arrived, they performed a series of colourful dances for us, accompanied by a strong voiced choir and kundu drums. Then it was time for shopping! The people here create beautiful bark paintings featuring traditional motifs of fish, lizards or Birds-of-Paradise and had a whole range on sale, along with many finely polished stone axes used as 'bride price'.

On our way back from the lake we were able to visit the Museum Loka Budaya which housed a variety of cultural artefacts, with a particularly strong collection of painted shields and carvings from the Asmat region in southern Papua.

We returned to Heritage Adventurer in the late afternoon and with paperwork and other formalities complete, we officially left Indonesia and headed along the coast towards Vanimo in Papua New Guinea. Suzanne gave a presentation on tips for buying local art.

Day 14 - 24^th October 2022
Sepik River

As we sailed along the northern coast of Papua New Guinea this morning towards the Sepik River, Aaron gave us a presentation on 'Heritage Expeditions - The Story So Far' followed by Suzanne with 'Making Men into Crocodiles'. From the Bridge a sleeping Sperm Whale was spotted, and 11 species of seabirds such as nine Long-tailed Skuas and our first Flesh-footed Shearwaters.

Shortly before lunch volcanic islands with the appropriate names of Blup Blup and Bam came into view, before we then turned into the mouth of the Sepik River. At 1,146 kilometres long and with a watershed of 7.7 million hectares, the Sepik is one of the world's great rivers. However, at its entrance there is a shallow bar no more than 5 metres deep, too shallow for Heritage Adventurer, so our exploration of the river would be by Zodiacs.

Our first visit was to the village of Kopar, where we enjoyed colourful performances from the community, including the spectacular Dragon Dance, accompanied by chanting and kundu drumming. The dragon itself had a long sinuous body, supported by a dozen or so people, with a large bright red head surrounded by a vast feathery headdress. This was followed by a hilarious theatre performance which elicits screams of laughter from the local children, adults and expeditioners alike.

Following formalities there is the opportunity to explore the unique, local crafts and carvings the people of the Sepik are rightly famous for including totems, masks, carved paddles, modesty gourds, bilum bags and more. Our group took to this shopping opportunity with gusto, eventually exhausting the 'bank' of local Kina currency that the expedition team had available. So, with large numbers of purchases in hand, we set off in the Zodiacs for a cruise up the river. The banks were lined with sago palms, from which the people of the Sepik extract starch as their staple food. A Sea Eagle was spotted, Brahminy, Whistling and Black Kites wheeled overhead, Great Egrets perched on riverside branches, while a single Blyth's Hornbill flew across the river.

As we returned to the ship we could see the huge pyramidal shape of Manam Volcano in the distance, with smoke billowing from its crater. This area has many active volcanoes and is subject to frequent earthquakes, the most recent only three weeks before our visit.

During our last evening on board we enjoyed farewell cocktails with the Captain and Expedition Team and then, after dinner, the expedition recap, including a slideshow of our whole journey, bringing back many happy memories of our exploration through the fascinating islands of Indonesia to Papua New Guinea.

Day 15 - 25^th October 2022
Madang

This morning we sailed into Madang and, after a final breakfast together, we said our goodbyes as guests travelling back-to-back with Discover the Secrets of Melanesia went out to explore Papua New Guinea's "prettiest city" while those homeward bound headed to the airport for a charter flight to Port Moresby and their next adventure.