220208: In the Wake of Scott and Shackleton: Ross Sea Antarctica

Day 1, Tuesday 8 February 2022

Today the adventure began as guests convened at the Kelvin Hotel, Invercargill. However, instead of the usual group excitement at the beginning of the journey, we were ushered into our rooms for a couple of days of splendid isolation, courtesy of COVID. Having room service was a bit of a novelty.

The main excitement was the PCR test for COVID shortly followed by the RAT test which all came back reassuringly negative.

Day 2, Wednesday 9 February 2022

Today we were in our rooms nervously awaiting COVID test results. Once these come through with negative results, we will be transferred by bus to Bluff to board the Spirit of Enderby (Professor Kromov).

We had some great lectures via Zoom while we were isolated in our rooms. The first was by Nigel Watson from the Antarctic Heritage Trust. He shared an insight into the history which built the basis for the Trust, the challenging environments and conditions of the heroic era huts. He spoke of the surprising finds through the conservation and preservation work including whisky and fruitcake, and the engagement with youth through the Inspiring Explorers programme.

Next up was Michelle La Rue from Canterbury University's Gateway programme. She showed how technology has given science insights into the Weddell Seal population, their dynamic response to penguin colonies and how people engage with technology to assist with science. The surprising finds were how few Weddell Seals there are, new Emperor Penguin colonies and that seals do not choose to be close to penguin colonies.

Professor Gary Wilson spoke on climate change and sustainability - the Antarctic connection. He discussed what is happening to ice thickness, water temperature and melt rate. He challenged us to think about our impact -science showing that as NZers, our per person contribution is far higher than many of the so-called contributors through big industry, and made us think about what we can do today.

Finally, Dr Olga Suvorova spoke about the Russian connection with NZ - Bellingshausen and Taonga. She built a picture of Russian exploration in the Pacific and south to the continent within the historical context of the day, the impact of other explorers and unearthing the connections of the Maori Taonga which have been dispersed in various Russian establishments.

Thanks so much to each of the presenters for their contributions.

And, finally we received the negative COVID results we needed and we were transferred to the Spirit of Enderby at Bluff.

It is a special day for one of us...it is John Borsboom's birthday, and what a way to celebrate - chocolate birthday cake prepared by our wonderful cooks Stephen and Isaac.

At 1900hrs we left Bluff for the Auckland Islands with many on deck to see the lights of Bluff fade in the distance.

And so the adventure begins...

Day 3, Thursday 10 February 2022
To Enderby Island

After breakfast it was lifeboat drill. The alarm went and all passed through the muster stations, put on life jackets and got into the lifeboats. Once in, the hatch was lowered and the engine started so that we had some idea what it would feel and sound like in the ‘real thing'. 6 days or so in this would be interesting and a little too intimate! But lifesaving.

Next up was checking all gear that we would carry or wear onto the Auckland Islands - surprising how many seeds manage to stick to socks and Velcro.

We arrived at Enderby Island in the Auckland Islands around 1700 hours. We were all quickly, well, as quickly as possible while struggling a little to adjust our life jackets, put into Zodiacs and landed on Sandy Bay. We spent 2-3 hours exploring around the area, observing the petrels that lined the beach, Yellow-eyed Penguins that looked a bit bewildered and Hooker's/New Zealand Sea Lions.

Their pups were very cute; a couple of them being very adventurous and finding themselves inside a DOC hut! We wandered over the boardwalk and saw albatrosses, pipits, tomtits, and bellbirds. There were also some megaherbs in full bloom, along with flowering rata. What an afternoon! This was our last afternoon on terra firma for several days until we reach Cape Adare.

And now for 4 days on the high seas.

Day 4, Friday 11 February 2022
At Sea

Today was a day of lectures, shopping and having parkas for Antarctica fitted.

The morning's lectures were from Paul Sagar, Seabirds 101 and Cheli Larsen's talk on IAATO. Paul discussed what made a seabird a seabird and then showed ways of identifying different species. He especially focused on those that we would encounter as we travelled south. Cheli discussed the rules that tour companies abide by and protocols and guidance for visitors to Antarctica.

After lunch there was a presentation by Nathan Russ on the International Marine Organisation's Polar Code that provides specific requirements and regulations for vessels travelling in polar regions. This was followed by an informative session on sea ice - the different types, how to distinguish them, and the limits some place on shipping. He also explained how to interpret ice maps.

After a break for much needed coffee we moved to retail therapy for those that were having withdrawal symptoms! Avi opened the Ship's Shop and displayed the various souvenirs, books and clothing items that were available for purchase. At the same time all passengers who wished to wear the Heritage Expedition polar parkas on the ice were fitted for them.

Day 5, Saturday 12 February 2022
At Sea

More lectures today- Jane Ellis on the Earliest Antarctic Explorers, and Bryan Storey on An Introduction to Antarctica where he explained different ice types and the Dry Valleys.

We watched the award-winning movie Endurance in the afternoon and were issued with our warm jackets in preparation for the Antarctic cold.

A bit of a stormy night.

Day 6, Sunday 13 February 2022
At Sea

Today featured the sighting of the first iceberg! A large tabular iceberg was seen on the starboard side of the ship. An exciting time was had on deck as almost all of us were up there to observe and take photos.

And..... the winner of the ‘First to spot the first decent sized iceberg' competition was...

JAN RAYMOND of cabin 509!!! Congratulations Jan!

We also had 2 lectures. The first was from Bryan ‘Melting Ice, Warming Planet' This looked at what has been happening in Antarctica and why.

The second lecture was from Paul on ‘Research in the Balleny's'. Paul talked about his experiences on the Balleny's observing birds while ‘attached' to a whale research project.

The other event of the day was the showing of Part 1 of Roland Huntford's ‘Last Place on Earth'. This received varying reviews from the audience!

Day 7, Monday 14 February 2022
At Sea and Crossing the Antarctic Circle

A major milestone was reached today with the crossing of the Antarctic Circle, 66 33'73 at 1315. The blast of the ship's horn marked the crossing.

This milestone was observed by all, we met on the bow of the ship to honour the occasion by toasting those that had gone before us with a glass of delicious mulled wine prepared by our outstanding chefs, Isaac and Stephen, and a piece of John's excellent birthday cake. Nathan Russ, our expedition leader then spoke:-

‘By anyone's standards this event is an auspicious occasion- very few people have crossed the Antarctic Circle by ship. So, on this occasion we want to both celebrate the occasion and honour its importance.

Today, each of us joins a unique group of explorers that have gone before us, not only showing us the way, but giving us courage to follow and to make our own destiny. We follow explorers such as Sir James Clark Ross, Sir Robert Falcon Scott, Sir Ernest Shackleton, Roald Amundsen, Sir Douglas Mawson, Richard Byrd, Sir Edmund Hillary and others that pioneered new routes south of the Antarctic Circle. Today we acknowledge them and their efforts.

Crossing the Circle also carries a responsibility - a responsibility that those explorers who went before us took seriously, which is part of the reason we are here today. They advocated for the protection of these lands and the wildlife that inhabited them, ensuring that future generations would have them to enjoy.

So today, as we cross the Circle I would like each of you to take this vow and receive the ‘Mark of the Penguin'- as evidence that you have crossed the Circle and have taken the pledge which I am going to ask you to say after me.

Having endured the privations of the Roaring Forties, the rigours of the Furious Fifties, and the ice-strewn waters of the Screaming Sixties to cross the Antarctic Circle, we pay homage to those early explorers who have not only shown the way, but have demonstrated what it means to advocate for the continued protection of Antarctica and its wildlife and history. I hereby pledge that in accepting the ‘Mark of the Penguin', will, until I take my last expedition, advocate to everybody, even those who will not listen, the importance of the Antarctic and its wildlife and history.

Will you please step forward to receive the ‘Mark of the Penguin'.

In the morning Bryan gave an informative, and slightly disturbing lecture on The Antarctic Treaty, Mining and Environment Protection. He discussed, among other things, the 1991 Environment Protocol to the Antarctic Treaty and the roles played by France, under the influence of Jacques Cousteau, and Australia who prevented a mining agreement being made. There is an indefinite ban on mining resources in Antarctica, except for scientific purposes.

And, at around 1600 we sailed into the beginning of the pack ice. Many sightings of wildlife- whales and seals followed.

In the evening Aviaaja Schluter gave a fascinating talk in the bar on Where are the Women in Antarctica? With a brief overview on the role women have played on the Ice.

Day 8, Tuesday 15 February 2022
At Sea

Because of pack ice overnight our ETA for Cape Adare is now 0500 tomorrow. Several stayed up until the wee small hours watching the pack ice from the Bridge.

This morning we heard a presentation from Courtney Burn on CCAMLR and the Toothfish Fishery.

She gave us a great insight into the regulations and methods of enforcement around fisheries in the Ross Sea Area that was quite encouraging in terms of the sustainability of the Antarctic Toothfish. And what a fish that is!

In the afternoon, Cheli spoke about Seals in the Ross Sea, and gave us characteristics to look at to identify seal types.

These lectures were interspersed with movies on William Byrd and Little America, and Douglas Mawson.

And then there were the on-going observations from the Bridge and deck - a pod of at least 3 Humpback Whales were observed near the ship for some time. What a privilege to be able to observe these magnificent creatures.

Before dinner, Paul talked about the ‘bird log' in the bar, and several took these to record sightings of birds they observe.

By dinner the wind was picking up. And what a night followed! Little sleep for most, but the experience of being on a ship with 10m+ swells! This did result in ‘carnage' of various kinds! Broken wine glasses, moving dinners, and then, in our cabins, gear everywhere.

Day 9, Wednesday 16 February 2022
Cape Adare

This morning most of us woke, if we had slept, to cabins with gear not where it had been left! It had been a WILD night. But, we also woke to the most wonderful sight of icebergs, and Cape Adare. Many moved quickly to the Bridge or outside to see 3 Emperor Penguins, Adelie Penguins and a seal as we approached the majesty of Cape Adare.

We continued to cruise down past Borchgrevink's Hut to Robertson's Bay which was more sheltered. We cruised around the sheltered waters of Colbeck Bay in the Zodiacs. What a perfect morning! The water was as still as a millpond and the sun came out from time-to-time. We observed Adelie Penguins, Weddell Seals with the most beautiful background of the sparkling Newnes Glacier. Bryan explained the geology of the Robertson rock formation.

Once back aboard, the ship headed back to Ridley Beach, Cape Adare. We were shuttled to the beach by Zodiac, with the landing ably assisted by our trusty expedition team of Nathan and Bryan who ensured that we didn't get our socks wet. And there we were; in the middle of an Adelie Penguin colony with the pungent perfume of penguin! What a delight to watch as the penguins paraded around, the young still losing their fluff.

The next highlight was the privilege of being able to walk into Borchgrevink's Hut, built in 1899, and the first building on the Antarctic continent. It was easy to imagine how difficult that first Antarctic winter must have been in that small, dark hut. Interesting that the Norwegian designed ‘lockwood' style hut of Borchgrevink's survived so well compared with Scott's Northern Party Hut of 1911.

Day 10, Thursday 17 February 2022
Possession Island

This morning we were woken at 0330 to the cheery sound of Nathan's voice over the intercom telling us that Zodiacs would be leaving in 40 minutes for Possession Island. Most responded with varying degrees of enthusiasm!

It was a peaceful, beautiful morning wandering around the Adelie Penguin colony with its now familiar perfume of pungent penguin. The view out to sea was of icebergs, sea ice and the mountains towering behind. Many of us climbed the ridge where there was a better view of various volcanic rock formations. Along the beach we found the wreck of a boat. Not sure when it landed, but it is relatively recent as there were the remains of a motor. More investigation needs to be done.

The early morning trip was an exhilarating start to the day. Thank you Nathan.

After lunch Jane gave a lecture on the Heroic Era of Antarctic Discovery. This was an overview of the main expeditions linked to Ross Island.

Generally, a quiet afternoon as we recovered from our early morning start.

After dinner many of us were on the deck to watch the amazing scenery of icebergs, mountains, penguins pass by.

Day 11, Friday 18 February 2022
Terra Nova Bay and Inexpressible Island

This morning we anchored at Terra Nova Bay overlooking the South Korean Station, Jang Bogo. This is a relatively new station, being about 8 years old.

It is constantly in use. Mount Melbourne was behind us and the sun shining. We headed ashore in the Zodiacs, walked over a ridge accompanied by the sound of skuas towards Gondwana, the German station. Unlike the Korean station, this was empty. We spent time wandering around, soaking in the scenery and peace. Adelie Penguins and Weddell Seals were observed along with some stunning icebergs. The sauna was a stand-out! What a view and a handy plunge pool/ice bath nearby. We returned to a sumptuous nacho buffet! This was greatly appreciated by many cold passengers.

This afternoon the temperature dropped to -10C as the ship moved alongside Inexpressible Island past the Italian station sitting on a ‘beautiful' (Bryan Storey) granite shelf/ridge. This was possibly the granite base of an ancient glacier. The station, Mario Zucchelli, is working with the Korean station to build a rock runway that will take wheeled aircraft. How this will impact the geo-political situation has yet to be seen.

Inexpressible Island is the bleak setting of one of the little known, small exploratory expeditions from Scott's Terra Nova Expedition. In 1912, 6 men, led by Victor Campbell, wintered over in an ice-cave as the Terra Nova was unable to collect them because of the pack ice. They had enough rations for about 4 weeks and little winter clothing. Once they realised they were not going to be collected, they constructed the small ‘igloo' and killed 128 penguins and a few seals. These they froze close to the igloo. They also organised their time- 2 each evening organised the meal, Swedish fitness was done to keep them fit, and in the evenings readings from David Copperfield were held. They all survived after walking back to Hut Point. This took 38 days.

We had hoped to visit the island and historical site but winds and snow prevented that. Hopefully, we are able to do that on our way back. Nathan and Courtney made a rushed visit to Inexpressible Island to retrieve a glove, believed to belong to one of the Northern Party, to take to Scott Base to be analysed and conserved. It had been discovered on a previous Heritage trip and hidden under rocks. Nathan carefully showed the glove to passengers- such a special find. Machine stitching would later reveal it was not a historic find.

Day 12, Saturday 19 February 2022
At Sea - Inexpressible Island to Cape Evans

Today was a quiet day spent watching from the Bridge, listening to lectures and watching movies.

In the morning Bryan gave a lecture, Antarctica in the Past, explaining the geological development of Antarctic. He discussed plate tectonics, and explained some of the basalt and granite formations that we have been observing.

In the afternoon Jane gave a lecture on The Historic Huts of the Ross Sea Region. She looked at the building of the huts and explained some of the differences between them, such as the layout. The work of the Antarctic Heritage Trust was also covered via their video.

Two movies were shown - The Frozen Planet and James Balog's Extreme Ice.

The highlights of the day from the Bridge were the sighting of a large pod of Orca around the ship, maybe as many as 15, and the Drygalski Ice Tongue that was most impressive.

Day 13, Sunday 20 February 2022
Cape Evans to Hut Point and the Scott Base Environs

This morning it was decided to sail to Hut Point as it was too cold -13C, windy, and the sea too rough for a landing at Cape Evans. We sailed past Discovery Hut, Vince's Cross and McMurdo Station, with views of the memorial cross on Observation Hill. The sun was shining over the Trans Antarctic mountains on the other side of the Sound, but Mt Erebus was hidden under the clouds behind Cape Evans. We saw large numbers of Emperor Penguins on the sea ice - great to watch them slide across the ice on their stomachs! Minke Whales, and seals were also observed. And the sun came out!

After lunch we anchored just off Hut Point for a visit to Discovery Hut and Vince's Cross. Vince was the able-seaman who drowned in 1901 after slipping into the sea in a blizzard.

Discovery Hut, 1901, was interesting. The conservators have left it looking as it was, preserving the artefacts. The ‘butcher shop' had 2 sheep carcasses hanging in it - no doubt a remnant from the sheep donated to Scott by the generous farmers of Canterbury! Evidence from the stay of Scott's depot laying party, 1911 and the stranded Ross Sea Party, 1916, was evident - the sleeping platform and blubber stove. Other items of note were the pile of seal blubber close to the entrance and the sledge-hauling harness hanging on the wall. This hut has many stories to tell!

From there the ship moved to the sea ice near Scott Base. It was great to see that touch of ‘Kiwiness' here - the green, almost ‘hut style' of the group of buildings nestled into the side of the hill below the wind farm. This will all be changed shortly with the pending rebuild of Scott Base.

Courtney and Nathan walked across the sea ice to see if we could access the TAE Hut at Scott Base. Sadly, they found that it was impossible as the ice near the ‘transition' was unstable and cracked with pressure ridges. Instead of spending time at the TAE Hut (the hut built for both supporting scientists during the IGY 1957-8, and the depot laying men supporting Sir Vivian Fuchs' TAE led by Sir Edmund Hillary) we had the opportunity to walk across the sea ice and view Scott Base and the TAE Hut with the sun shining. It was a glorious afternoon. As we wandered back to the Zodiacs, the walk became more exciting with the appearance of sea ice cracks that opened around us!

That evening from 2300-0100 a full sea ice breakout occurred at Scott Base along with the first sunset occurring at 0100.

After dinner, most of us were on the Bridge or on deck watching the sight of the sun glistening on the sea ice, ice pancakes forming, squadrons of Emperor Penguins with their feathers shining under the evening sun and seals. The cracks in the sea ice with the edges catching the sun and the large puddles of turquoise water almost looked like rice paddies! The evening with its blue sky, lack of wind, the sun causing the mountains across the Sound to glow will not be forgotten.

We passed our furthest South; 77⁰54. 007' S, 166⁰44.245'E

Day 14, Monday 21 February 2022
Cape Evans - Cape Royds

This morning we were awoken at 0430 by the cheery voice of Nathan letting us know of the perfect conditions outside and to prepare for the visit to Cape Evans, Scott's 1911 Terra Nova Hut, in 30 minutes. Outside the sun was rising on Mount Erebus, and the seas were calm. A beautiful morning.

However, the wind did come up with some cloud. This did not detract from the amazing experience of visiting this hut with all the courage, adventure, parties and grief associated with it. The hut that the Cape Crozier team of Wilson, Bowers and Cherry Garrard returned to after the ‘Worst Journey in the World', that the Northern Party returned to after a 200 mile walk and wintering over in an ice-cave, and the hut that Scott, Bowers, Wilson, Oates and Evans left from to walk to the South Pole, never to return.
Most of us spent around 2 hours wandering the site, visiting Wind Vane Hill with the monument to the 3 men from the Ross Sea Party who died, dog kennels, various packing cases and other artefacts. The highlight, for most, was walking into the hut which still looks as if the men have just left - what a superb job of conserving done by the AFT and conservators. It was fascinating seeing the stores that remain - the canned rhubarb, collops, cabbage, gooseberries in jars...and the medical supplies. The discovery of one of Apsley Cherry Garrard's socks on his bunk, complete with nametag was special. The stables with the stove at the end to heat food for the animals along with the named stalls were poignant. The bicycle leaning against the stable walls, unusual! There has been a recent discovery of a store of frozen mutton outside the hut- courtesy of NZ farmers perhaps?
In the afternoon we were able to walk to Shackleton's Nimrod Hut, 1908, at Cape Royds. We were taken by Zodiac to a ‘beach' a little further away from the hut than usual as ‘Backdoor Bay' was iced in. It was overcast, but the wind had dropped as we walked the 3kms to the hut through beautiful, undulating, scoria clad land that looked as if a coal mine had been nearby! The view across the bay was extraordinary, with the sun shining on the Trans Antarctic mountains. It was also good to stretch our legs and soak in the reality that we were in Antarctica.
Cape Royds hut has also been restored. Some of the highlights were seeing Shackleton's signature on the backboard of one of the beds, the acetylene lighting plant that some of the longer members of the group had to duck for, the reams of paper from the printing press, and the cans of food. I suspect that what was left was the least popular of the stores - the Irish brawn, canned cabbage, canned mutton.... And the medical supplies - the Jeyes sanitary powder! Another wonderful day.

Day 15, Tuesday 22 February 2022
TAE Hut - Ross Ice Shelf

This morning we woke to -16C that was to drop to -20C by 1100.

The sea ice had opened overnight by Scott Base so we were able to visit the TAE Hut. This hut was part of Scott Base that opened in January 1957 to support 2 events- the International Geophysical Year of 1957-8, and Sir Vivian Fuchs' Trans Antarctic Expedition. Sir Edmund Hillary was the leader at the hut with the 23 men who would winter over and lay supply depots for Fuchs' expedition. It was intended that the base would remain for 3 years. But, it was felt that the science being carried out and the potential for further Antarctic research was too important, so the NZ Government decided to continue with Antarctic research indefinitely. So, this became the basis for the Scott Base Station.

In 2001 the hut was listed as a Historic Monument under the Antarctic Treaty, and in 2015 the AHT began fundraising to enable them to implement their restoration programme. This was completed in 2017.

For many the highlights of the TAE Hut were the sense of stepping back in time to the late 1950s and early 1960s- that is, those who can remember that! The formica tables, stainless steel benches, armchair, old Cadbury's chocolate blocks all brought back memories. It was interesting to see the changes to huts 50 years makes! We also enjoyed the younger photos of Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip, and the photos of Sir Edmund Hillary. Great too that there were touches of culture with the piano and the photo that accompanied it!

By the time we returned to the ship, the temperature had dropped further.

We reached the FURTHEST SOUTH on our voyage at 1110 at
77⁰54.712'S, 166⁰43.133'E

After lunch we went Zodiac cruising around Cape Bird where Paul Sagar spent several summers carrying out research on crustaceans. We cruised past an Adelie Penguin colony, seals and many icebergs. Most of the time was spent close to the side of the Cape Bird glacier even seeing part of it avalanche to the sea. Then it was back to the ship for the early evening's entertainment.

Nathan led us in a toast to Antarctica, and to acknowledge that we had passed the furthest south we would travel, and, that we had been privileged to visit all 5 of the historic huts in the Ross Sea area. The glasses of bubbles were raised enthusiastically.

And then, our auctioneer extraordinaire, Cheli, exhorted us, cajoled us, bribed some with GnTs, to encourage us to part with our money to support the amazing work of the Antarctic Heritage Trust. Various items of historic worth were auctioned with much competition, and to great applause such as a replica ice-axe of Sir Edmund Hillary, t-shirts, Shackleton Whisky, various prints and books. These had all been donated by the AHT. We raised $8,025.00. Many thanks to all who contributed to this great cause and who made it such a fun event.

Day 16, Wednesday 23 February 2022
Cape Crozier - Ross Ice Shelf - Franklin Island - Drygalski Ice Tongue

Today we woke to a cheery good morning wake-up call at 0530 from Nathan. We were approaching Cape Crozier. Most of us went to the Bridge to view this, and the hardy and brave went outside on the deck. It is difficult to imagine, when it was so cold and with such strong winds at the end of summer, what it must have been like that winter of 1911 when Wilson, Bower and Cherry Garrard were there collecting Emperor Penguin eggs.

Later the Ross Ice Shelf came into view with Snow Petrels flying above it.

Franklin Island that had been a possible place for a landing or Zodiac cruise proved uncooperative with waves crashing onto the beach making it too rough to land safely. We did get good views of the Adelie Penguin colony and seals from the ship.

In the afternoon Paul Sagar spoke on When Science Programmes do not go as planned - An Unexpected Journey.

He shared the life-threatening experience he had while working at Cape Bird in 1972. Paul and three other fellow researchers went out on their trimaran to capture specimens for their research when the vessel broke down and got caught in the pack ice which threatened to crush the boat. This caused them to leave the boat, ensuring that they took their lifejackets, food, rope and other supplies with them. They ended up being stranded on various ice floes for the next 5 days hoping to be rescued. At one point a penguin that visited their floe was killed so that they had some ‘wet' food. Dehydration was a problem as all of their rations were dry. They were rescued an hour before a weather storm arrived that they would not have survived.

Day 17, Thursday 24 February 2022
Coulman Island to Cape Hallett

Most of today was spent at sea. We had hoped to stop and do a landing at Inexpressible Island early in the morning, but this was not possible as the winds and sea were too rough. During the night there had been 5kph katabatic winds and up to 85knot winds, new sea ice and a temperature of -15C. All the windows on the Bridge had iced up.

The decks of the ship were covered in snow and ice which the crew were busy, and having a lot of fun doing it, chipping it off.

We passed Coulman Island in the morning- it looked very bleak with fresh snow.

There were 2 lectures - Avi gave one on Modern Tourism in Antarctica, and Cheli gave one on Whales of the Southern Ocean and the Ross Sea.

Avi spoke on how Antarctic tourism actually began in the 1920s with the first custom built cruise ship, MV Explorer 1969. From this point numbers of tourists began to rapidly increase, mainly from the Antarctic Peninsula. During the last 20 years this has increased rapidly. The IAATO monitors and regulates tourism in Antarctica. Recent changes in Antarctic tourism have been the increasing popularity of ‘extreme tourism'. This is becoming mainstream - the 7 summit challenge - Mt Vinson in Antarctica 4892m, the 7 marathon challenge, the 7 volcano challenge alongside various attempts to walk to the Pole. All of these experiences require massive logistical support.

Cheli described various types of whales that can be seen in the Ross Sea Region, and how to identify them. She explained the differences between the baleen whales and toothed whales giving us useful ways of identifying them using their flukes, fin type, and blow type.

Late afternoon after the wind dropped we went Zodiac cruising around Cape Hallett. This was the area where the US and NZ set up a jointly run research station in 1957 as part of the IGY. It accommodated 11 Americans and 3 NZers initially and operated year round until 1964. It was a summer only station 1964-1973 when it closed. It has since been removed. The area we cruised around was magical - an Adelie Penguin rookery, icebergs and glacier ‘tongues'.

Day 18, Friday 25 February 2022
Cape Adare to Robertson Bay and beyond

We awoke to a calm morning, overcast with patches of sun and little wind; perfect for another Zodiac cruise. We had returned to an earlier favourite spot, Robertson Bay. We explored the areas around the bottom of the glaciers, spotted some penguins and the occasional seal and then followed the ship as the ice began to close in. This was followed shortly after by the greatly awaited

POLAR PLUNGE!!

Most of us and the staff, including the plucky pensioners!!!!, and one staff member who went in his birthday suit, took the opportunity of a lifetime and dropped into the crystal clear icy water of Robertson's Bay. SUCH FUN!

Many photos were taken to ensure the moment was not forgotten. This was followed by the most delicious hot chocolate provided by our outstanding chefs, Stephen and Isaac (fully clad), and laced with Baileys or Bacardi.

During the afternoon George and Janie had turns as helmsman, under the expert guidance of our Russian captain! They had won this privilege at the auction. George spotted a pod of Orcas that caused most of us to flock to the Bridge. It was an amazing sight. The Orcas, at least 8, were ‘playing' with a seal initially, and then swimming in formation close to the ship. We had excellent views of them.

In the evening, prior to dinner, we were treated to a slide show of the polar plungers!

Day 19, Saturday 26 February 2022
At Sea

After breakfast Bryan gave a talk on Living and Working in Antarctica as a Geologist, 1974-2018

Bryan chatted about his various experiences in Antarctica, beginning with 2 summers on South Georgia, including his ‘survival' experience that did not quite match Paul's! but did include the sacrifice of 2 penguins! These same penguins were later ‘taxidermied' and spent many happy years sitting on top of Bryan's mother's piano in Ireland!

Later he worked throughout West Antarctica, out from Rothera Station. This involved some manhauling and dogs. Later, this changed to Skidoos and Twin Otter aircraft. He worked at Fossil Bluff in West Antarctica. He discussed polar tenting and the delicious!! food rations that were provided. He researched the geological evolution of Antarctica within the Gondwana supercontinent. He has had a glacier and peak in Antarctica named after him to honour him for his contribution towards understanding Antarctic geology.

In 2000, he saw the light and moved to NZ so as to be closer to Antarctica, and to be with all the wonderful Kiwis. In Christchurch he headed up Gateway Antarctica at Canterbury University.

In the afternoon Jane spoke on Men on Ice, what the ‘heroic era' Antarctic explorers did during winter to maintain fitness, morale and focus. She looked at the importance of food, as we all know, routine and entertainment - what did they do with those boxes of dress-up clothes that they took south with them?

During the day Avi showed the documentary In the Footsteps of Scott.

Day 20, Sunday 27 February
At Sea, heading towards the Balleny Islands

During the previous night the winds and waves increased. It was an exciting night in the ‘screaming sixties' with the sounds of the waves crashing and the ship creaking - not for the fainthearted. You couldn't help but think of those early explorers in their small sailing ships on this unforgiving ocean - what did the men and crew of the Discovery, Nimrod, Fram, Terra Nova and all those other early vessels think during such storms, and how did they cope? And what about the James Caird?? The storm did give us a little understanding of the phenomenal achievements of those early expeditions.

The morning dawned with more stormy weather, the winds reaching 80 knots and the swell up to 8 metres. For those blessed with not suffering from seasickness, it was astonishing to watch the massive waves washing over the bow from the Bridge. The remainder were in their cabins lying low. The day passed with knitting in the bar by some, card games, reading, snoozing and general catching up. Walking around the ship was a challenge, but no bones were broken! Our amazing chefs, Stephen and Isaac turned out a luscious lunch of meatballs, and a great dinner, despite the conditions. They are true warriors of the Southern Ocean!

Day 21, Monday 28 February 2022
Balleny Islands and onwards towards Campbell Island

After a rough night we arrived to the relatively calm waters of the Balleny Islands. The islands are controlled by NZ as part of NZ's Ross Sea Dependency. The weather was overcast and it wasn't possible to do any Zodiac cruising. Instead we did a ship cruise around them. The skies cleared from time to time to reveal a series of razor type islands. The highlight was the group of 3 Humpback Whales that we passed to the north of Young Island (part of the Balleny group). They played, displayed and fluked around the ship for some time.

From the Balleny's the ship steered a course for Campbell Island, at least 3 days away.

Prior to dinner, Bryan did a recap in the bar on the geology of the Ballenys. He explained that the Ballenys are a narrow strip of precipitous islands oriented in a NW-SE direction including a sea mount. They have been formed as a result of a hotspot in the earth's mantle.

Day 22, Tuesday 1 March 2022
At Sea

Another rough day at sea with many confined to their cabins because of seasickness or fear of falling around the ship. It was a day of reading, sleeping, knitting, card playing, eating...

Day 23, Wednesday 2 March 2022
At Sea

More of the same - rough weather and many confined to their cabins. However, a couple of movies were shown, to the delight and ‘enculturation' of some, in the Enderby Theatre. In the morning, The Girl with the Pearl Earring, and in the afternoon The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel.

Day 24, Thursday 3 March 2022
At Sea

Not quite as rough as the previous days, but wandering around the ship remained a challenge.

In the morning we had a lecture from Paul (mainly!), and Bryan, An Introduction to Campbell Island. Paul spoke about the birdlife and the research he did on the Campbell Albatross and the Grey-headed Albatross. He also discussed reasons for their decline - ocean warming particularly, and by-catch. He also gave us an interesting insight into the life of a researcher on Campbell Island - the accommodation especially. Bryan explained that Campbell Island is part of continental Zealandia, as is NZ. The island is largely a shield volcano and is a similar age to Dunedin and Banks Peninsula.

After lunch Caitlin Thompson spoke on Albatrosses. She discussed the work she does at Taiaroa Heads near Dunedin with albatrosses. She also explained the different types of albatross and the ones we were most likely to see on Campbell Island, giving us hints to help us identify them. Some interesting facts that she related - the Campbell Albatross has been recorded flying 170kph! She also discussed the 3 main threats to albatross - by-catch from longlines (100,000/year lost), invasive species and climate change.

And then there was the How well do you know the staff on this expedition? quiz.

It turned out....not very well at all!! Given that the winning score was 4! Outrageous acts had to be matched to the correct staff member, and what an insight that was! And the winner was.... after a tie-breaker....Janie Elrick!
We are all looking forward to waking up tomorrow anchored in Perseverance Harbour, Campbell Island.

Day 25, Friday 4 March 2022
Campbell Island

This morning we awoke to the bliss of calm waters, and the novelty of being able to shower without the threat of being thrown around the shower cubicle! We were anchored in Perseverance Harbour. The Harbour was named for the ship that ‘discovered' Campbell Island. The Perseverance was not a lucky vessel as her captain was drowned in this harbour 10 months later along with a woman and young boy, and 18 years later was wrecked here.

The day was overcast with intermittent drizzle in the morning followed by a fine, and at times, sunny afternoon. Action began at 0800 for those choosing to climb Mt Honey with Nathan. Most of the rest went Zodiac cruising. We began at Beeman Cove where the meteorological station was (now used from time-to-time by DOC and scientists doing research), and quietly cruised around the coast to Tucker Cove. On the way we had the dubious delight of seeing a dead elephant seal having its eyes plucked out by a Giant Petrel with many other petrels and pipits watching on. Better yet was the sighting of the rare Campbell Island Teal.

At Tucker Cove, named for the main leaseholder of the predominantly sheep farm that had been here, we walked up to the site of the Coastwatchers' Hut and the Magnetic Hut. These had been built in the 1940s to house the Coastwatchers who were looking out for German or Japanese ships that may be passing (none were spotted). The track went through many megaherbs, most were now in seed, but still impressive with their seed heads. The story of the ‘Lady of the Heather' was told. What a place to be dumped!

From Tucker Cove it was on to Garden Cove to visit the ‘loneliest tree in the world', the Sitka Spruce planted by the NZ Governor Ranfurly in 1902. Why the Governor was here is a mystery! More wonderful, perhaps, was the group of Hooker's Sea Lions- about 30- bulls, females and many pups frolicking in the crèche!

After the return to the ship, and a delicious lunch of chicken tortillas, we were in the Zodiacs again for the walk up Col Lyall. This is a boardwalk that took us up to the top of the ridge with outstanding views of both sides of the island. We were able to sit amongst the tussock and observe albatrosses nesting, gamming and flying overhead. Spectacular! We could also clearly see the volcanic origins of the island with the columnar basalt. Some members of the group showed extraordinary courage - Isaac and Paul in particular, in protecting us from the bull Sea Lion that was on the boardwalk, and not especially welcoming!

So, a wonderful day had been had on Campbell Island. Great to stretch the legs, and see some amazing scenery, birds and other wildlife, and to reflect on some of the history of the island.

Day 26, Saturday 5 March 2022
Campbell Island - Carnley Harbour, Auckland Islands

This morning Paul Sagar gave an Introduction to the Auckland Islands as we sailed towards them in rocky seas. He gave an overview of the early settlement of the islands, and some of the shipwrecks that occurred here. He especially looked at the wreck of the Dundonald. In March 1907 15 men were shipwrecked off the shore of Disappointment Island and at times survived on 5 albatross each per day! They were so miserable on Disappointment Island that they built a 4 man coracle that they used to get to the main island. They were rescued in November 1907. Paul was particularly interested in this wreck as he spent 15 days on Disappointment Island in 2015 doing research on the numbers of White-chinned Petrels, and White-capped Albatross. Disappointment Island and Adams Island are both predator free. They found that there were around 155 thousand pairs of White-chinned Petrels and 100 thousand pairs of White-capped Albatross on Disappointment Island. He also explained that while some predators have been removed from Auckland Island, there are still pigs, cats and mice. DOC is currently looking at the best way to remove these. Paul showed as an horrific photograph of 3 pigs amongst an albatross colony at South West Cape, Auckland Island.

We arrived at the Auckland Islands, the largest of NZ's Subantarctic Islands, around midday to overcast, occasionally sunny, warm (14-15C!!) weather.

We then went ship cruising up Musgrave Inlet and Chambres Inlet. The water was crystal clear with large quantities of multi-coloured kelp. A couple of Fur Seals and some fish were spotted. In the afternoon we went Zodiac cruising to the head of Deep Inlet where there was a large group of Sea Lions with pups having a peaceful afternoon. The sound of birdsong greeted us, so the Zodiacs pulled into the shore and turned off the engines. Most of us had never seen so many Bellbirds in one place. They almost seemed to be putting on a contest for us. They appeared to be a little larger and with slightly brighter plumage than on mainland NZ. Then a couple of Tui joined the concert. Returning to the ship we spotted a group of Light-mantled Sooty Albatross on the water. It was a special cruise. Along with the wildlife we also were able to see the southern rata, tree ferns, waterfalls, basalt cliffs and megaherbs.

The ship anchored at Tagua Bay in Carnley Harbour for a sheltered night from the predicted storm.

In the evening at the bar the announcement of the new competition for the best photographs was announced. And, after dinner, Jane Ellis gave a lecture on The Real Kathleen Scott.!!! What an amazing, courageous woman. And the lesson to be learned is - be very careful what you record in your diaries....or dispose of them before you die to avoid others reading them!

Day 27, Sunday 6 March 2022
Carnley Harbour, Auckland Islands

Today dawned overcast and very wet so was not suitable for Zodiac cruising. In the morning many of us explored the ‘workings' of the ship with tours of the galley and engine room.
Later we went ship cruising up Carnley Harbour, past Adams Island (which is larger than Campbell Island) to the Victoria Passage. That made it easy to understand why Adams Island has remained predator free as the Passage was so rough.
After lunch the weather had improved and we went Zodiac cruising out to the head of Carnley Harbour to the site of the ‘rata theft' by the officers and crew of the Erlangen in 1939, prior to the outbreak of World War II. The German merchant ship had slipped out of Port Chalmers, telling the NZ authorities that it was headed for NSW. But it ‘disappeared'. Later it was discovered that the ship, low on fuel, had sailed to Carnley Harbour where the 15 officers and 40 Chinese crew spent several weeks cutting 235 tons of rata to fuel the ship for its passage to neutral Chile. This incident was the primary reason for the establishment of 3 Coastwatching stations - in Tucker Cove, Campbell Island, Tagua Bay in Carnley Harbour, and Ranui Cove in Port Ross. Jane related some of this information in her ‘favourite teaching spot of all time' alongside the shoreline of Figure of Eight Island. She was held steady by Martin, and almost drowned out by the song of the Bellbirds. Cheli, after jumping in the water to stop the Zodiacs from drifting, explained the story of the wreck of the Grafton, and why they all survived - largely because of the leadership of Musgrave, and the skill of Reynal. A highlight of this trip was seeing the Sea Lions around the Zodiacs, almost performing for us. And, the most wonderful experience of being in the midst of a raft of Sooty Shearwaters/ Titi/ Muttonbirds - so many, and being able to watch them lift off in large numbers and marvel at their beauty.
During the afternoon the ship returned to Musgrave Inlet where the weather now made it possible to go Zodiac cruising. We set out late in the afternoon in perfect conditions. Nathan led the Zodiacs into the most amazing open-topped sea cave via an overhanging waterfall. It was awesome with the light reflecting off the cave walls, the colours of the vegetation above us, and the sound of birdsong. We headed across the inlet to the Rockhopper Penguin colony. Not many were out to greet us, but we did see a couple of shy ones. The vast quantities of kelp near the shoreline was impressive, as was the almost surreal light reminiscent of early colonial NZ paintings.
This evening the ship moved to Port Ross.

Day 28, Monday 7 March 2022
Port Ross, Auckland Islands

Today we woke to sunshine and clear skies for the final day in the Subantarctic Islands!
The ‘longwalkers' set off at 0845 for their day walk around Enderby Island, while the ‘short walkers' had a morning visiting historical sites via Zodiac.

The short walkers had an enjoyable morning puttering around in Zodiacs past impressive columnar basalt cliffs, colonies of Auckland Island Shags, Yellow-eyed/Hoiho Penguins and Fur Seals. We visited Terror Cove, the site of the 1874 German station that was established temporarily to view the Transit of Venus. They were more successful than the French one on Campbell Island, getting several readings. Today there is a small monument to them and the remains of a couple of brick plinths that they would have had their instruments on.

From there we went to the site of the Hardwicke Settlement, possibly the shortest lasting colony established by Great Britain. It was founded by Sir Charles Enderby in 1849, lasted approximately two and a half years, and at its peak had about 300 residents including 30 Maori and 40 Moriori slaves. It was intended to be a whaling settlement supported with farming. However, despite the glowing reviews of the area by Sir James Clark Ross and others, it failed. The soil and climate was not conducive to successful whaling or farming. It also had a jail on a small island nearby. This was to deal with the drunken delinquent types. Penny asked us to drop her off there! We visited the cemetery, the Victoria Tree, and wandered past the old house sites and reflected on how difficult life must have been.
While heading back to the ship on a beautiful, calm day Fay commented on how good it was to have rough sea days as it ‘added to the texture of the adventure'! I'm not sure that all would agree!! In the afternoon we visited Enderby Island, enjoying the sunshine, birdsong, Kakariki, Hoiho and Sea Lions. It was almost warm enough for a swim.
Meanwhile, the ‘longwalkers' had wandered around Enderby Island, but did struggle at times through challenging vegetation including neck high tussocks and large megaherbs. Morning tea and lunch breaks were also less than relaxing as we were frequently interrupted by less than friendly Sea Lions! Bryan showed exceptional bravery by protecting us from over zealous Sea Lions. We came across many Hoiho penguins. Other highlights included watching the albatrosses soaring overhead, observing the wildlife- Kakariki, Bellbirds, Sea Lions, and the colours of the ocean as it crashed against the cliffs.

After dinner the ship sailed northwards towards the Snares Islands.

Day 29, Tuesday 8 March 2022
Snares Islands to Stewart Island

The planned early Zodiac cruise around the Snares was called off because of heavy seas and inclement weather. Instead, we did a ship's cruise around the islands before heading towards Stewart Island.

This morning Christopher Meijer gave us a talk on the work he is doing, focusing on his 7 year research into NZ freshwater fish. Nathan followed this with a talk on the history of Heritage Expeditions.

Then it was time to hand in our lifejackets and boots - sadly, our voyage is coming to an end.

This evening was wonderful! We were entertained by the ukulele orchestra, were presented with certificates and the winners of the photograph competition were announced. We had the most amazing farewell dinner presented by our wonderful chefs, Stephen and Isaac. It was a late night for many!

Day 30, Wednesday 9 March 2022
Stewart Island to Bluff

The pilot came on board at 0630 to guide us in to Bluff Harbour. After final farewells we were on the bus to deliver us back to the world! One that we had been pleased to escape 4 weeks ago!
And so, all in all an amazing expedition has been had. We would like to thank our wonderful, stalwart chefs who produced wondrous culinary delights no matter what the seas were doing - truly they are cavaliers of the high seas! And Nathan, our Expedition Leader whose determination made this trip possible and whose timing around the weather enabled us to visit all 5 historic huts. And thank you to all our fellow guests whose humour, company and enthusiasm made our voyage such a joy.

#2273 Group Photo