221231: Beyond Fiordland: New Zealand's Wildest Islands 31st December 2022

Day 1 - Friday 31st December 2021 - Bluff Harbour

We all meet at Invercargill's Ascot Park Hotel for a rapid COVID-19 test, after which everyone joins one COVID-free bubble to travel to the Port of Bluff. Through a maze of shipping containers, machinery and large ships our sturdy blue and white expedition vessel is waiting - Professor Khromov a.k.a. Spirit of Enderby. Staff are on board eagerly awaiting our arrival.

Once shown our cabins the first on board navigation experience takes place: 500 level, 400, 300, bar/library, dining area, be careful on the steep stairs, mind your head, step over the door frames. It is exciting to be in a new environment, unpack the luggage and settle in. A faint smell of fresh scones is wafting around and can be followed to the bar. Shortly everyone is called to the Lecture Theatre to receive a welcome from our Expedition Leader Katja, and a hello from the voyage staff and lecturers: Avi, Niall, Rio, Em, Peta, Rod and Anna; our voyage doctor Lesley; and most importantly chefs Stephen and Kayleigh.

The mandatory lifeboat drill goes without a hitch. We file out to the back of the ship with orange lifejackets under arm, stumble to remember our cabin numbers (which will shortly be as familiar as our names) and board the lifeboats. It is a pass; we are fit to travel. As we head back inside our experienced crew are getting the ship underway.

Out on the deck we watch as the greens of Bluff Hill slide into the distance. The bright pilot boat follows alongside ready to retrieve the pilot guiding our safe passage out of the harbour. Many eyes were upon them as the pilot clambered down the side of the moving ship switched vessels and headed home while we headed out into the grey blues of the open ocean. Our expedition had begun.

And what a beginning! We immediately put into practice Katja's mantra "one hand for the ship, one hand for yourself". We were starting with the longest stretch of continuous sailing from Bluff down to the southernmost point of our voyage - Campbell Island. It would soon sort the weak stomachs from the strong. After dinner and a toast to the New Year's, we settled into our cabins for our first night at sea.

Day 2 - Saturday 1st January 2022 - The Southern Ocean

We woke to clear skies and big swells - hopefully just getting the rough seas out of the way early? A rolly ship postponed most of the planned lectures but Niall Mugan pulled off a presentation Introducing the Birds of the Subantarctic Islands so that we could begin to identify the incredible pelagic birds that we'd been seeing, as well as get excited for the endemic land and seabirds we would hope to see at the islands.

As we travelled south some caught up on sleep while others further explored the ship and decks. A few green faces were stuck outside where the fresh breeze helped with adjustment to life at sea. Arguably the best place to spend much of the day as bird sightings included Wandering Albatross, Southern Royal Albatross, Black-browed Albatross, Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Buller's Albatross, Cape Pigeon (a type of petrel), Mottled Petrel, White-chinned Petrels, Northern Giant Petrel, Black-bellied Storm Petrels, Fairy Prions and Sooty Shearwater (titi/mutton-bird).

Some sharp eyes even got a brief look at Dusky Dolphins. Relatively small (reaching up to 2m in length and 80kg) they are a species found throughout New Zealand waters inhabiting the cooler waters along the continental shelves of the Southern Hemisphere (South Africa, South America & NZ).

Early in the trip we were treated to a lecture by Geoff Norman, author of Birdstories, which alongside beautiful illustrations wove the tale from past to present of bird observation and conservation in a New Zealand context. We had rolled our way south and it was already the evening of our first full day at sea. Hats off to the chefs who still managed to cook a five-star meal on this section of the trip! Katja briefed us on Zodiac procedures so that we would be ready to leave the ship upon arriving at Campbell Island the following morning.

Day 3 - Sunday 2nd January 2022 - Motu Ihupuku/Campbell Island

Katja had been watching the weather as we arrived and was excited to see it calm enough for a Zodiac cruise along some of Campbell Island's rugged cliffs and outcrops. A morning call came through the cabin speakers, it was time to bundle up in warm thermals, jackets, waterproofs and lifejackets. Spirit of Enderby had entered the sheltered waters of Northeast Harbour, the perfect place to board the Zodiacs and set off towards North Cape/Bull Rock. There was bit of nervous anticipation as we tried something new to most of us - but we turned our red and black tags indicating we were away, trotted down the gangway three at a time, and carefully stepped into the black zodiacs with the assistance of our guides, crew, and a decent sailor grip. Seated side by side we began our first subantarctic experience, and a little salt spray for good measure too.

Inside the harbour, at the base of gently sloping hillsides covered in tight and windblown vegetation we caught a brief shoreline look at two Hoiho/Yellow-eyed Penguins before they disappeared into the bush. Standing tall and streamlined, with red eyes and a yellow stripe across their eyebrow, Yellow-eyed Penguin populations are declining on the South Island of New Zealand (the current theory is due to the changing sediment in the water) however they seem to be thriving on the Subantarctic islands.

Outside the harbour steep cliffs rose dramatically along the eastern side of Campbell Island. We were immediately greeted by albatross soaring around us and noticed many dotted along the cliff face. This area is home to a colony of Campbell Island Albatross. They are distinguished from the similar looking Black-browed Albatross by their golden, honey-coloured eyes. Campbell Island Albatross breed only at Campbell Island, and the adjacent Isle de Jeanette-Marie, during September to April. Therefore, we were fortunate to see ginormous furry grey chicks nestled on the cliff side. A couple of Grey-headed Albatross were also spotted on the cliffs - they breed circumpolar in the Subantarctic, however within the New Zealand region they only breed at Campbell Island.

Hakoakoa/Southern Skuas were circling the albatross colony in the hopes that they might be able to swoop in and steal a chick. We saw one skua that was face to face with an angry albatross guarding its chick.

As we made our way along the misty coastal cliffs, we admired beautiful waterfalls cascading down, kelp sloshed in the swell at the bottom and the rock was striped with red mineral deposits, yellow, orange and white lichen and vivid green moss. Altogether it created an incredible setting for the seabirds constantly on the move in the air around us. Last but not least was the sound, the cawing of seabirds occasionally sounding like a neighbour's circular saw. We headed back to the ship, passing some Eastern Rockhopper Penguins jumping over the water, and rafts of Campbell Island Shags - of which there are thought to be only around 2,000 pairs in coastal and offshore waters around Campbell Island.

All this before breakfast! We arrived back on board just after 8am to feast and warm up before setting off on our next excursion. Once passing a biosecurity check on our boots, socks and jackets we had two options; a long hike around Campbell Island or a Zodiac cruise followed by a stroll along a boardwalk to Col Lyall.

Long walk
Long walkers were dropped off at the old Meteorological Station near Beeman Point. Coastwatchers were stationed on the island during the war and at the end of the war the station was taken over by the New Zealand Meteorological service. They maintained a manned weather/ research station there until 1995, at which point it became automated.

As our Zodiacs arrived at the slipway many guests observed the endemic Campbell Island Flightless Teal. The teal had been rediscovered on Dent, an offshore island, in 1975 and was then reintroduced onto Campbell Island after it was declared pest-free.

The hikers had to be very wary of territorial New Zealand/Hooker's Sea Lions that were relaxing on the beaches as well as in the tussocks. We started off by walking over to Tucker Bay and then headed up the first ridge to Northwest Bay. A Giant Petrel chick was spotted underneath a bush on the way. The overcast day meant we had to stick closely together as we made our way. We saw lots of dotterel dotted around the tussocks. Strong winds and poor visibility at the top of the first hill meant that we strongly reconsidered continuing down the steep path into Northwest Bay. After communicating with the ship and hearing the weather forecast, the decision was made to turn around and head back down towards Perseverance Harbour. We spotted a few Southern Royal Albatross sitting on their nests on the way back down. We tucked down into Camp Cove and sat by the ‘World's Loneliest Tree' for our lunch. When the Zodiacs arrived to pick us up, Avi had to stand her ground very strongly to stop two boisterous bull Sea Lions from coming too close.

Short walk
Those that opted for the short walk were treated to a view from the Zodiacs of the long walker's trip beginning, Sea Lions in Tucker Cove and the lonely Sitka spruce tree at Camp Cove. As with the walking group, bird watchers were delighted to spot small camouflaged teal; huge petrel, and looking a little out of place - mallard ducks! Lunch for this group was back on board before being dropped off at the Meteorological Station to enjoy the Col Lyall boardwalk. The first challenge being to navigate a male Sea Lion at the very beginning of the track.

We started out in clear air but summited engulfed in cloud. The higher we climbed the more blown away we were, both figuratively and literally. A little over halfway we began to pick out Toroa/Southern Royal Albatross sitting on their nests amongst the tussock. To see them up so close enabled us to realise their true size and regal splendour. The intensity of encounters with the Subantarctic megaherbs also increased the higher we climbed, culminating with a spectacular garden of Pleurophyllum, Anisotome and Bulbinella emerging through the mist - yellows, purples and pinks popped in the foreground against the fog.

Some people were also fortunate to see Hakawai/Campbell Island Snipe. Snipe were formerly unknown from the main Campbell Island, but once pest free they recolonised it by flying over from the offshore Jacquemart Island. Currently the Subantarctic snipe is confined to Antipodes, Auckland and Campbell islands.

It was an invigorating day exploring Campbell Island, satisfyingly all adventurers who set out made it up and down the hill and were proud of their efforts. We enjoyed another delicious three course dinner before tumbling into bed as the ship transported us north to our next island group.

Day 4 - Monday 3rd January 2022 - Auckland Island, Carnley Harbour

We arrive around 10:30am at Auckland Island's Carnley Harbour. The Auckland Islands group was formed by two volcanoes which erupted some 10-25 million years ago and have been subsequently eroded and dissected by glaciation creating the archipelago as we know it today.

It was a spectacularly calm day with the water still enough to reflect the Southern Rata tips glowing red along the shoreline. We cruised along pest-free Adams Island stopping by the site of the Grafton wreck - the ribs of the ship clearly visible on the shore. Once inside the rata forest we could make out the jumble of rocks marking a forge built by survivors, as well as encountering Miromiro/Tomtits, Tui, Pipit, and Korimako/Bellbirds. Sound recordings were made as these birds have been separated from their mainland contemporaries for long enough to have developed a distinct dialect.

Relocating to the far end of the harbour by Victoria Passage, usually raging waters of sailors' nightmares - but not today. Here our party split with one group scrambling up a steep hillside to visit the Shy/White-capped Albatross colony, and the other taking the opportunity to cruise through the calm of Victoria Passage to explore the cliffs beyond.

The uphill group rock hopped along the shore before pushing through low scrub, jumping over boggy, soggy patches and snaking their way up to the tussocky tops. Once at the top we could see the inland plateaus and found ourselves almost walking on top of the vegetation it was so dense and compact. Tragically the numbers of albatross seem to have declined here over recent years, the consequence of introduced pigs and cats inhabiting the island. The group saw this first hand, encountering a pig at the beginning of the walk, and then also spotting a sow and piglets right amongst the colony itself at the top.

Those of us who remained cruising at sea level got the unique opportunity to pass through Victoria Passage via Zodiac and head out to rock stacks and cliffs at the edge of Adams Island. Once all returned to ship, we spent the night cruising up the eastern side of Auckland Island to spend the following day on one of the already pest free offshore Islands, Enderby.

Among the talent on this cruise, we were lucky enough to have birder and photographer Richard Schofield on board. As well as kindly allowing us to pick his brains for bird ID and information throughout the trip, he also gave us two lectures introducing the eBird app. This is an online database of bird observations, and a great citizen science tool - many of us had downloaded the app and put our new knowledge to work creating bird lists of our expedition.

Day 5 - Tuesday 4th January 2022 - Enderby Island

Enderby Island, for some one of the most beautiful islands in the archipelago, is named after the same distinguished shipping family as our vessel. The island was cleared of all introduced animals in 1994 and both the birds and the vegetation, especially the herbaceous plants, are recovering both in numbers and diversity. We were extremely fortunate with plenty of sunshine today and had the option to either enjoy a boardwalk that cut across Enderby or a longer walk around the coast of the island.

We landed the Zodiacs at Sandy Bay and walked the gauntlet through New Zealand/Hooker's Sea Lions on the beach. Around 70% of New Zealand Sea Lions breed at the Auckland Islands and Sandy Bay is one of three main breeding areas for them. It was clear to see the marked sexual dimorphism with the sea lions; the dark grey adult males (bulls) can reach 3.5m in length and weigh up to 450 kilograms whilst the paler, beige-coloured adult females (cows) can reach 2m in length and weigh up to 160 kilograms. Beachmaster bulls gather on the beach, defending their harems from younger (ambitious) males to mate with the cows shortly after they have given birth to a single pup. Pups are born from early December to mid-January - and some of the group noticed a female that had given birth during our time on Enderby Island - the tell-tale sign being scavenging Skua darting in to grab the placenta. Females give birth to a single pup every 1-2 years. Pups are born on the beach but are moved by their mothers into nearby vegetation when they reach about 6 weeks old.

A lucky few enjoyed observing a Karearea/New Zealand Falcon high up as we arrived, and we were entertained watching the Hoiho/Yellow-eyed Penguins' attempt to cross the beach and avoid conflict with the sea lions. As we began walking we also spotted an Elephant Seal. Elephant Seals are the largest of all the seals, with adult males reaching up to 3,700 kilograms (almost 10 times the weight of a female Elephant Seal), however the one we saw by Sandy Bay was on the smaller side so likely a younger female. These seals breed mainly on Subantarctic Islands and along the Argentine coast. Within New Zealand's territorial waters, the main breeding sites are Campbell Island and the Antipodes Islands, although isolated pupping can occur along the Otago coastline.

Those on the long walk encountered a wide variety of terrain; dune colonies, shrub, rata forest, grass fields and clifftops. New plants included the Auckland Island stinging nettle (some of which we pushed through - Dr Lesley giving us dock leaves to ease the light sting), as well as great megaherb fields including Stilbocarpa polaris and gentians. Hoiho entertained and posed for us, and lunch was spent by an Auckland Island Shag colony - humans and birds gazed at each with much reciprocal curiosity, and we watched birds gathering nesting material. Kakariki/Red-crowned Parakeet skittered along the edges of the rata forest and Banded Dotterel were spotted among rocky shorelines on the Eastern side. Some even caught a glimpse of the evasive Subantarctic Snipe (a female and chick) and we passed a plaque marking the grave site of drowned crew from the Derry Castle wreck (1887).

The boardwalk expedition team wound its way up the island, initially through shrubby forest and then out onto low windblown vegetation and finally grassland. Along the way several Northern Giant Petrel chicks could be spotted tucked under vegetation, and Southern Royal Albatross could be seen nesting from the track. The short windblown Rata sported crimson flowers. Many of those that enjoyed the boardwalk had lunch on the far side of Enderby Island, looking northward into the ocean - a spectacular spot to pause for some of the afternoon watching Light-mantled Sooty Albatross swoop around us.

Em Oyston gave a lecture on the recently completed feasibility study of a pest free Auckland Island/Maukahuka, outlining options and possibilities for eradicating introduced mice, cats and pigs. Having just seen the pigs amongst the Shy/White-capped Albatross colony this project's importance and urgency really hit home for many of us.

Day 6 - Wednesday 5th January 2022 - The Snares

This morning we arrived at the closest Subantarctic Islands to the New Zealand mainland, The Snares. They were appropriately called The Snares as they were once considered a hazard for sailing ships. Comprising of two main islands and a group of five islands (called the Western Chain); they are uninhabited and enjoy the highest protection as Nature Reserves. Due to this, no landings are permitted.

Katja's sacrifices to Tangaroa had paid off and despite their reputation we experienced an unusually good combination of weather and swell conditions. This enabled us to start the morning with a Zodiac cruise on the northeastern tip of North East Island. Jumping into the Zodiacs we headed straight to the Penguin Slide - where a continuous stream of Snares Crested Penguins could be seen making their way up and down an incredibly steep ramp, defying physics and traversing the cliffside. It was a scene which we could have easily watched all day. This penguin is endemic to The Snares, breeding only here, and only occasionally stragglers can be seen at other Subantarctic Islands and on the mainland.

Dotted around the penguins were some Kekeno/New Zealand Fur Seals. This species can be found around New Zealand and its offshore islands, and southern Australia. Fur seals have pointier noses and are much smaller than the sea lions, with adult male fur seals weighing up to 185 kilograms and average females weighing 40 kilograms. New Zealand Fur Seals were almost hunted to extinction as they were an important source of food for Polynesians arriving in 1300AD and then they were hunted for their skin, oil and fur by the Europeans (starting in the late 1700s). Fur seals were given full protection in 1894 (however culling did not cease until 1946) and the current population (estimated to be over 200,000) seems to be doing well. Interestingly, adult fur seals have two layers of fur; a protective topcoat that traps air bubbles and prevents the thick layer of fine underfur from getting wet or cold.

As we headed along the coast we were able to tuck into a river mouth, and had the special and rare treat of seeing the Snares Island Tomtit (noting its entirely jet black body) as well as the Snares Island Fernbird - both birds slightly larger than their mainland cousins. Forests of the tree daisy Olearia lyallii and Brachyglottis stewartiae forms a canopy over much of the island group, and we could view them up close from the water's edge.

After thoroughly exploring this stretch of rock meeting the sea, we returned to the ship and proceeded to circumnavigate The Snares. Viewing from all angles the cliffs and tors rising to the skyline, was an impressive vista even on a calm and bluebird day. Equally impressive were the sheer numbers of sea birds we encountered throughout the day - both from the Zodiacs and the ship - Cape Petrels, Fairy Prions, Sooty Shearwaters in their millions. Imagine what New Zealand and its islands must once have been like when these birds had ample safe onshore breading grounds. We then peeled away from the land like an albatross ourselves and headed north towards Rakiura/Stewart Island.

Day 7 - Thursday 6th January 2022 - Rakiura/Stewart Island and Ulva Island

We woke in the vicinity of Rakiura/Stewart Island, having snuck into Bluff in the small hours to pick up our navigational pilot - a legal requirement for the destinations of our next leg. First up today, however, was a visit to Te Wharawhara/Ulva Island in Paterson Inlet.

A Zodiac cruise through slightly drizzly choppy waters delivered us to the island wharf, opposite the only private residence - a crib belonging to the descendants of Charles Traill who in 1872 established the local post office here. Bright golden sands and the Ulva Guided Walks guides greeted us as well as spectacular viewing of a Red-fronted Parakeet tending to its nestlings right above our entry point to the island. Life jackets off and land legs steadied, we split into groups to explore the island.

A network of tracks took us through the interior, a beautiful example of native forest featuring podocarps (totora, miro and rimu) as well as several now familiar plants such as dracophyllum. Protected by the absence of possums and only the occasional deer browsing, these islands give us a chance to experience what the forests in neighbouring areas may once have been like. Extra treats included the beautiful white flowering epiphytical orchids, as well as a mother seal and pup - and one group also had a lively encounter with a juvenile male seal.

Throughout the forest was bountiful birdlife. Between the groups we saw Mohua/Yellowhead, Tieke/Saddle back, and Kiwi as well as the more common New Zealand birds including: Stewart Island Weka, Tui, Kereru, Tomtit, Kaka, and even two Ruru/Morepork. To see beautiful bush alive with birds was a treat, and many of us put a day trip to Ulva with the chance to sit and observe more closely on our future wish lists.

Once back on the ship we steamed to Kaipipi Point. Long hikers departed at this point and enjoyed stretching their legs as they strode across land to Oban, while the rest of us boated around the long way.

Oban township provided a leg stretch, coffee stop, and a chance to check out the Rakiura Museum - opened last year and displaying the social and natural history of the island and its inhabitants. The most enthusiastic managed to pop in for a swim, and the last group to leave the island enjoyed what was on offer at the local establishment - the South Seas Hotel. Back on board, fed and tucked up for the night we sailed around the rugged south western corner of New Zealand, ready to explore some of the more inaccessible areas of Fiordland - the outer sounds.

Day 8 - Friday 7th January 2022 - Dusky Sound

A swift current saw us arrive in Dusky Sound ahead of schedule, and for the early risers a dawn chorus of Bellbirds and Robins could be faintly heard from the shores of nearby Anchor Island. Anchor Island has been pest free since 2001 and is now an island sanctuary for many endangered species including the Kakapo, Little Spotted Kiwi, Tieke/Saddleback, Mohua/Yellowhead and Te Kakahu Skinks. The island is one of the main intensive management sites for the Kakapo programme where different methods are used to increase the production of Kakapo chicks and selectively improving the genetics of this population. Kakapo are one of New Zealand's species which has been brought back from the brink of extinction, with a founding population of under 50 individuals (all from Rakiura/Stewart Island bar one bird, ‘Richard Henry' which survived from Fiordland).

It was beside here we anchored for the morning in calm waters and glorious sunshine before departing on a post breakfast Zodiac cruise to explore the Many Islands group just offshore from Anchor Island, as well as landing on Anchor at Luncheon Cove to visit the site of the first European ship and house built. Here some of the party were treated to a spectacular view of the bright and loud Kaka, putting their powerful beaks into action peeling away tree bark and searching for grubs to feed their young back in the nest. Pest control in the area has not only provided sanctuary for the onshore birds, but for the first time in over 100 years sea birds such as Titi/Muttonbird can now also be found burrowing in the area - a demonstration of how ecosystems can rebuild in the absence of introduced predators and giving some hope for the future.

Snaking along the coast we caught glimpses of New Zealand Fur Seals and the bright buoys marking live holding crates for the offshore lobsters caught and stored here prior to transport by helicopter to Te Anau and on to market.

The Spirit of Enderby headed next to Cascade Cove, where after lunch groups split into Zodiac cruise and helicopter parties. The water-based groups visited Pickersgill Harbour and Astronomers Point. We also went into Mamaku/Indian Island and Waka Harbour, site of the first encounter between European and Maori as depicted in the famous painting by William Hodges. Those airborne were treated to a scenic flight around Dusky Sound with a landing on Mt Pender, we couldn't have asked for a better day for it.

Back on board we steamed around Long Island, down Cook Channel and back around the Bowen Channel and around the west side of Resolution Island to reach our anchorage at Facile Harbour near Whidbey Point. It was spectacular to view tall mountains and extensive bush - a contrast to the rugged outcrops of the subantarctic.

Day 9 - Saturday 8th January 2022 - Dusky Sound, Pigeon Island

After breakfast we split into two groups again and rotated through the morning activities. One group headed directly to Pigeon Island, while a second group stayed in the Zodiacs for a look at Facile Harbour. On the way to the harbour we encountered a pod of Bottlenose Dolphins, both calves and adults, who performed and played around the Zodiacs, giving us a good long look at them.

Walking around Pigeon Island allowed us to imagine some of the life of Richard Henry - New Zealand's first conservation ranger. Here in 1894 he cleared land and built a house, boat shed and pens for the birds he was charged with moving from mainland New Zealand to the sanctuary of nearby Resolution Island (as well as other small islands in the area including Long and Indian Island, which we had visited yesterday).

We listened closely for Mohua and Tieke/Saddleback, two precious birds which survive on pest-free Pigeon Island, along with cheeky Robins who hopped around as we walked through the bush. Sadly, Resolution Island which was thought to be out of reach of introduced pests such as stoats turned out to be vulnerable to invasion - removing stoats is a task we are still grappling with to this very day. The more than 700 birds, including Kakapo and Kiwi laboriously transferred by small dingy to its shores have perished. Conservation continues in New Zealand though, and the valuable observations and pioneering work undertaken by Richard Henry have contributed to this field.

Returning to the ship for lunch, we spent the afternoon visiting Earshell Cove by Zodiac. Peta Carey gave a fantastic talk revealing some of the personalities, histories, and conservation work of Tamatea/Dusky Sound, a great insight into the area and the behind-the-scenes work that has gone on here over the years.

We then took the big Zodiac (Spirit of Enderby) for a cruise up the grand Acheron Passage, exploring the opposite side of Resolution Island to that we woke up on this morning. Dinner was had in the sheltered waters of Breaksea Sound, before heading out past Breaksea Island and further up the coast to Doubtful Sound for the night.

Day 10 - Sunday 9th January 2022 - Doubtful Sound

Waking at Blanket Bay, we discovered yesterday's sunshine had been replaced with grey skies and a drizzle that we could see moving in down through the sound. Not that we were complaining, it was invigorating to see Fiordland shrouded in a characteristically moody atmosphere. Those of us keen jumped into the Zodiacs in our wet weather gear and, greeted by waterfalls and the Blanket Bay Hotel (barge), we checked out the local vicinity, as well as hopping ashore at The Gut hut for a short walk.

Back on board the ship continued up the northern side of Te Awaatu Channel, where we had views of the ruggedness of Bauza Island and Secretary Island. This was the setting for some of the intense conservation work that Peta and others had covered in their talks - not an environment for the faint-hearted.

Before long we were in Thompson Sound on the eastern side of Secretary Island. Despite the slightly windy conditions our Captain skilfully drifted the ship while we took the Zodiacs into Deas Cove. Here we alighted and walked past Deas Cove Hut (another public hut provided by the Department of Conservation) where the group walked over to Neck Cove and enjoyed a beach fossick before returning back to the ship.

Rod Morris gave a talk on the life and work of Don Merton, touching on the history and evolution of conservation in New Zealand. We were lucky to have access to such a personal insight into the experiences of these New Zealand Wildlife Service conservation rangers and their (and New Zealand's) conservation journeys.

Today some of us also took up the invitation to view the engine room - a loud and yellow experience. We were treated to a chat with Kosta (not in his yellow parker and badged hat this time) who told us some of the history of the ship and the workings of the inner sanctum. We have been lucky enough to have access to the Bridge as well throughout this voyage - enjoying wind free landscape views and intriguing buttons and switches.

Next up was a slideshow of trip highlights, a summary recap and farewell by Katja - and dining including cake to celebrate the birthdays of Charmaine and Deborah. What an amazing group of people and what an amazing journey. Seeing it all summed up in bright photos and smiling faces was a lovely way to wrap up the last full day. Overnight while we rested on board for one last time, the crew safely navigated us back to Bluff Harbour.

Day 11 - Monday 10th January 2022 - Bluff Harbour

We woke to the still waters of Bluff, packed up our belongings and departed the ship after breakfast with our new friends and memories. Till next time, travel well.

GROUP PHOTO # 2169