2045: East Antarctica and Heard Island Intended Itinerary
This expedition explores the remote East Antarctic coastline where few other tourist vessels have visited. Heritage Expeditions have compiled a combination of four logs together to provide an abridged log of the intended itinerary based on our achievements from past expeditions.
Log References:
Heard Island – South Indian Ocean Log November/December 2002 & 2012
In the Wake of Mawson – January & December 2017.
Day 1: January 2017
Invercargill, New Zealand
At long last our expedition, with 49 of us all keen to visit the sub-Antarctic islands and to experience the wonders of Antarctica, is about to get underway. We arrived in the southern city of Invercargill located on the fertile plains of Southland and were soon comfortably cared for in the Kelvin Hotel. At the Kelvin we enjoyed meeting fellow passengers and our Expedition Leader
Day 2: January 2017
Southward bound. Bluff and Stewart Island
“Marched at average of 2 m per hour and got into camp 16 miles on at 7.30 p.m. We were able to follow old tracks and camp in old spot. Glorious day, temp about zero, light NW by W wind. We seem to have come uphill a little – my feet and legs pain a little. Mouth no better…” Douglas Mawson on start of return journey from region of South Magnetic Pole, 17 January 1909 – 108 years ago today.
We rose to a rather bleak morning with occasional rain showers which have persisted over the last few days. After breakfast, we met Heritage Expeditions lecturer David who with the Ship Manager Max and Radio Officer Yury, arranged conveyance of our luggage to the ship. From the Kelvin Hotel we enjoyed an excellent lunch and were escorted by David in a coach to Bluff, where a brief security check was made. We then arrived at our smart blue and white painted polar ship, were welcomed and found our luggage in the cabins.
The 72m (236ft) Akademik Shokalskiy is one of five ships of the same class built in Turki, Finland, as research vessels, with our ship constructed in 1984 and listed on the Russian Register as KM ice class. The ship has a bunker capacity of 320 tons for the two 1560 HP (1147kWt) engines achieving 12 knots and while cruising comfortably manages on one engine10 knots. Originally built for oceanographic work, it is owned by the Russian Federation Far Eastern Hydrometeorological Research Institute in Vladivostock where it is Registered No. 179. There are 22 Russian crew. Of interest is the naming of the ship. On Main Deck (Level 3) a panel by a portrait of Y.M.Shokalskiy, refers to “a highly respected academic CCCP 1856-1940, [who] lived a long and amazing life.” He was associated with several prominent scientists and the great Arctic explorer Fritjof Nansen. Shokalskiy’s primary interests were in the fields of geography, oceanography and cartography and he compiled works titled “Oceanography”. He was a respected President of the [Russian] Geographical Society.
After settling in our cabin where our luggage had been placed, becoming familiar with the ship and enjoying afternoon tea with excellent muffins, we had a compulsory briefing in the lecture room. This began with an introduction of staff, followed by important housekeeping rules outlined by Agnes and finally an introduction to lifejackets, procedure for an abandon ship drill and finally, use of the lifejacket worn during Zodiac operations and procedure when using a Zodiac. At 4.10 we had a simulated abandon ship drill and reported to our lifeboat, where the engine was briefly started and the drill successfully concluded.
We steamed out of Bluff into a north-north west wind at 6.05p.m., the trip to Fouveaux Strait taking about 15 minutes. The pilot launch Takitimu 11 drew up alongside and it was exciting to see the Pilot clamber down the ladder with a rope grasped in each hand. Once on the Takitimu 11, the launch driver then lost no time in pulling away from our ship. We were now on the way. After passing through Fouveaux Strait we headed on a southerly course off the east coast of Stewart Island or Rakiura as it is also known. The Stewart Island landscape in many places covered in scrub and bush and patches of weathered granite rock, was obscured by low cloud and fog. Stewart Island is New Zealand’s newest National Park and fortunately has no predatory stoats. It was named for William Stewart in 1909 a crewman on the Pegasus and has a rich flora and birdlife. The interesting human history includes early Maori, sealers, Ross Sea whalers in the 1920s, miners, saw millers and fishermen. We had excellent viewing of seabirds including albatrosses, Little Blue and Fiordland Crested Penguins and of breaching Dusky Dolphins. The sea in the strait began to pick up and soon our ship was rolling gently. The bar which opened for an hour provided an opportunity to meet fellow passengers and when in the lee of Stewart Island, the evening meal was served at 7.30.
Day 3: January 2017
The Snares
The good ship rocked and rolled a little during the night and any hours slept, were few and far between. By 6a.m. we were nearing The Snares and approaching the Solander Trough in the Tasman Sea. A few Buller and Salvin’s (nest on Broughton Island) albatrosses, the occasional Sooty Shearwater or Titi as known to Maori, Cape Petrel, Common Diving-Petrel and other species, were about. Course was set at 223.0o and we headed for the South promontory of North East Island with Broughton Island to the south-east. The Snares Islands formed of granitic rock, have a highest point of 152m, cover 328 hectares, a mean annual temperature of 11oC and an average rainfall of 1200mm per year. The position of the island group is listed as 48o01’S and 166o35’E.
Before breakfast we had a good view of the main island, discovered independently on 23 November 1791 by Capt. George Vancouver HMS Discovery and by Lieut. William Broughton HMS Chatham, both of the Vancouver Expedition. The subsequent sealing era decimated the population. A small group of 3-4 convicts was here for seven years, lived in five huts, grew potatoes and they were rescued in 1818. The pest-free island requires a permit to land and is of great interest to science parties from the Universities of Canterbury and Otago, along with the National Institute for Water and Atmospheric Research (NIWA). Only 10 people a year are allowed to land and this includes members of two families who take Rock Lobster (crayfish).
It was a nice fine morning with blue sky, scattered clouds and the Zodiac operation using three boats each equipped with four-stroke 60 h.p. engines began at 9.15. We were split into three groups for two hours on the water. Cruising off-shore, we enjoyed excellent views of the rocks, some with nice colouration, the zoning of vegetation adapted to salt-laden air with, Olearia lyalli, the tall ‘tree-daisy’ prominent, and with canopy resembling the heads of cauliflowers. Also seen was a further ‘tree-daisy’ Brachyglotis stewartiae. Other plants included Cook’s ‘scurvy grass’; a megaherb (the term was introduced by Lyall on James Clark Ross’s expedition 1842); a shore Veronika with small white flower, and large Poa or tussock grass, this mostly on higher areas. The many birds that were seen included Snares Crested Penguins (Eudyptes robustus) of which there are 25-28,000, Buller Albatrosses nesting on grassy ledges on cliff faces, rafts of Cape Petrels, Giant Petrels, Brown Skua, the small black endemic Snares Tomtit, Arctic Terns and some of us had good sightings of the small brown Snares Islands Snipe. The Sooty Shearwaters, a burrowing petrel on the higher areas of the main island and the most prominent bird species, with a calculated 2.7 million pairs (1971), had mostly flown before dawn. A special experience was observing a pair of Buller Albatross going about their courtship and of an Arctic Tern diving to retrieve a small fish. Chris later mentioned that the Snares is the only island without a cormorant and that there is an abnormally high number of endemic species. Excellent viewing was also enjoyed of numerous New Zealand Fur Seals and a New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sea Lion was seen in Station Cove.
Visits were made to two caves during which a passenger was heard to remark “What an awesome place if one wanted to propose to someone”. A major highlight was an excellent view of the famous “penguin slide” with large numbers of Snares Crested Penguins commuting over the granite surface worn smooth, perhaps over hundreds of years. We were amused to see birds about to enter the water, then change their plan, slide in the process and with the next incoming swell, take advantage of this to enter the water. Some penguins which become stranded in the kelp, managed to extricate themselves quickly. As Nathan said, why go to the trouble of marching up a long, steep rock slope, when there are much easier places for access. Penguins were calling and from on nests on adjacent headlands, the guttural, braying calls, of Buller’s Albatross were heard.
We had an interesting time disembarking from the Zodiac back onto the ship as the swell was at times over a meter and timing had to be spot on. We had certainly enjoyed a very special outing, with fine natural history observations, enhanced by the rarely experienced calm conditions. Anchors were lifted at 12.15 and our chefs produced a very fine lunch at 12.30 of sausage roll, flavoured with fennel, chips and salad. With course set for Auckland Islands and with the west-south west swell decreasing, many decided to have a rest. Nathan advised we are expected to reach Port Ross in the early hours of the morning.
During the afternoon a fishing boat was seen but not identified. This may have been heading for the Auckland Islands Rise to take squid, ling or scampi. All vessels fishing operating in this area are licensed in New Zealand. At 7p.m. Nathan held in the bar-library, his debrief and briefly mentioned plans for the next day. With reference to the sub-Antarctic islands he said “The wildlife is like an adolescent teenager”. By now we were progressing at a comfortable 10.5 knots and our talented chefs again produced a fine meal with a choice of pork cutlets or Short Rib, followed by excellent carrot cake as final.
Photo credit: S Blanc
Day 4: January 2017
Enderby Island (Auckland Islands)
We arrived at Port Ross around 03.45 a.m. It is named after the famous English Arctic and Antarctic explorer, James (later Sir) Clark Ross, who visited here in November 1840. Originally it was named Rendezvous Harbour by Dumont D’Urville, leader of the French expedition and was renamed later, by Charles Enderby. Many of us on deck early were fascinated with the spectacular columnar basalt cliffs with prominent jointing, topped by Rata forest and Dracophyllum, along the south side of Enderby Island. The rock has formed in this way during rapid cooling of the lava.
The morning was cloudy with occasional rain, a cool south-south east wind and an air temperature of 10oC. Wake-up call was at 06.30 with breakfast 15 minutes later. We then attended to quarantine requirements and used a vacuum cleaner to ensure our clothing and back packs etc. had no foreign seeds. We attended a mandatory briefing by Nathan which covered a general introduction to the Auckland Islands, followed by general comments as related to environmental aspects. A Southern Lakes Helicopter flew off 15 drums of fuel, required for emergency purposes and research.
By 10a.m. the first Zodiac had taken the first of us to the east end of the beach where we had to climb over the bow, be careful not to slip on kelp or rocks, then make our way to suitable place where we would leave our lifejackets and for those on the long walk, a change from gumboots to hiking boots. After a brief talk from Nathan we all set off, taking care to not intrude on some large assemblages of New Zealand (Hooker’s) Sea Lions. The violent storm on New Year’s Day had caused many sea lions to leave the beach and move inland. We then followed the board walk to the north side of the inland, passing along the way a well-developed Yellow-eye Penguin chick, a distant view of a Southern Royal Albatross, an Auckland Islands Snipe, flowering Southern Rata, purple and white Gentians and a few megaherbs. The Bulbinella rossi was not flowering as the plant was severely affected by the storm two weeks ago and we were deprived of seeing the beautiful bright orange flowers.
The 14 not participating in the long walk around the east end of the island, after enjoying the wild landscape and Auckland Islands Cormorants rafting off-shore, then made our way back to Sandy Bay. A short detour was made into the Rata forest, where David showed some of us the Stella castaway depot, mentioned by Nathan in his presentation earlier. We also had a look at the site of a farm house placed on a knoll. Margie F. located a tree stump and Ben then found the only remaining evidence of the house. This was part of the stove and a fire brick. The house was erected in May 1874 and later converted to a castaway depot. From here we saw a well-developed pup feeding from the mother and good photos were obtained of adults and pups. From here we sidled over to where a Department of Conservation staff member, Katie from Wellington, and two students were packaging phials with tissue samples. Katie mentioned that 328 pups had been born this season at Sandy Bay and that this was 20% up on the previous season and that the pups are a week ahead of usual. Further research focused on Yellow-eyed Penguins and Gibson Albatross research was being undertaken on Adams Island where the team has put up with 40-50 knot winds. The helicopter was being used for aerial photography (30 mega pixel imagery) of Light-mantled Sooty and Shy Albatross colonies and sea lions. Albatrosses, however, have had the breeding rate decreased.
The “finger post” nearby, was not seen and had toppled over in the New Year storm.
Those on the long walk were able to obtain good sightings of Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and Auckland Islands Cormorants. Good views were enjoyed of the Derry Castle Reef, where the ship of that name was wrecked 20 March 1887 and of the memorial plaque, near the site of 15 graves. A number of possible mast spars were on the reef. The barque had a load of grain from Geelong Australia. There were eight survivors (including on passenger) who subsisted on grain and shellfish for 92 days, as the castaway depot was found to contain only one jar of salt. The excellent cut lunch was enjoyed here. Bird sightings was very plentiful with three Red-crowned Parakeets and a variety of other interesting birds including, Dotterels, Auckland Islands Tomtits, brown Northern Skuas including a juvenile, Kelp Gulls, Arctic Terns, Auckland Islands Teal, Auckland Islands Cormorants, an advanced Sooty Albatross chick and Yellow-eyed Penguins. A most unusual item was several skulls, which Dr Pat suggested were seal.
It would be difficult to determine the most special aspect of today as there were many. It was certainly an outstanding event in one’s lifetime. Late in the day the sun shone brightly on the fascinating landscape we had spent the day on. Many of us in the bar-library, enjoyed going through our photos, the anchor was raised at 5.45 and at 6p.m. the bar opened. Nathan held a de-brief at 7p.m. after which we enjoyed the usual excellent meal. With a full programme and early start, most of us opted for a quiet night. We are getting used to the ship now and impressed with the high standard of cleanliness, a tribute to the crew.
Photo credit: C Todd
Photo credit: S Blanc
Day 5: January 2017
At Sea on the vast Southern Ocean. Macquarie Island
We had a fairly comfortable night with just the occasional big roll of the ship. Last night a sea lion may have been sighted. Made good progress over the Southern Ocean and this morning at 06.50, we were doing 11 knots over an incredible 4395m of water and at 52o31.883’S; 163o01.594’E. This morning the sea was fairly calm and not a bird was in sight. The sea temperature was the same as the air at 7oC and of interest was the sighting of six Hourglass Dolphins and at approximately 8.15 we entered Australian waters.
This morning we continued on a straight course of 235.2o and maintained a steady speed of 10.5 knots. The sky was cloudy and there was little wind. There were a few sea birds about, these included prions, albatrosses, shearwaters and petrels. With calm seas, this provided an opportunity for the lecture programme to begin. The first lecture was by Samuel, who introduced us to “Seabirds of the Southern Ocean” with a focus on the ecology and biology of the various groups. Samuel explained that these birds spend most of their lives at sea, as they wander about the Antarctic continent. Some such as the albatrosses have a long life span, with a record of 61 years for one albatross. There are 300 species in the Southern Ocean, however, many have low breeding success; perhaps one chick/year, and may spend 7-8 years at sea before returning to land to breed. Also discussed were variations in the social, breeding and foraging behaviour, along with scavenging. Excellent images will help us identify various species by taking note of colouration on upper and lower wing plumage, the head including eye and beak.
At 3.30 Chris gave an excellent lecture “New Zealand Sea Lion - the life and times of Hookers”. He explained that the species is only found in New Zealand and the sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand and that the mammal was named after Sir Joseph Hooker, who had been on James Clark Ross’s expedition. Pinnepeds Chris said, are divided into three groups – the true seals or Phocids; Fur seals and Sea lions – the eared seals of Otariids and the Walrus or Odohenids. There is a common ancestor and other sea lions are in the Arctic, California, Japan, Galapagos, South America and Australia. They were once around the entire coast of New Zealand. Of great interest was the depth at which sea lions can dive – 550m over 11½ minutes and the elephant seal can dive to 1500m and stay submerged for two hours. The New Zealand Fur Seal manages 218m over 11 minutes. This achieved through having a range of adaptions, such as lungs which compress under pressure; slowing the heart rate, having a large volume of blood, etc. Further discussion focused on breeding, diet and conservation of sea lions with one being the first sea lion to breed in New Zealand for 150 years.
David gave the third presentation which aimed to provide further information to that already conveyed by Nathan in the pre-landing introductions. This was titled “Bleak Outposts in Stormy Seas”. Presentation began with describing ten aspects of the human history of New Zealand’s Sub-Antarctic Islands and Australia’s Macquarie Island. The main topics discussed was the era of sealing when statistics were given for the quantities of skins and oil taken; the disastrous attempt to establish a British colony in the Auckland Islands; era of the castaways when at least 10 major ship wrecks took place; the science undertaken including the early expeditions that stopped on the way to or after Antarctica and the present eras relating to eco-tourism and conservation.
Plans for the visit to Macquarie Island over the forthcoming two days were outlined with an ETA expected around 11-11.30pm.
At 9pm Nathan advised Macquarie was visible and this had many of us outside on the “monkey bridge” obtaining great views and enhancing our photo record. The island which lies north-south on the Macquarie Ridge, along the eastern margin of the tectonic plate boundary between the Indo-Australian Plate and the Pacific Plate, probably emerged 600-700,000 years ago, rising to 2.5km in elevation; initially as islets then as an archipelago. The island is growing and the last glacial event 18,000 years ago had a major effect on the islands landscape. It appeared as a long dark mass with a cluster of the Judge and Clerke Islands at one end, which became more distinct as we drew closer. Over the island was a band of mauve clouds, with fringes, pale lemon. The sea was beautifully calm with a small raft of Giant Petrels which included a White Morph, this contributing to a perfect end for the day.
With potentially two busy days ahead, we decided to have a reasonably early night.
Day 6: January 2017
Macquarie Island – Sandy Bay
Macquarie Island has a long history. This began with the discovery by Captain Frederick Hasselburgh in July 1810 and sealing began soon afterwards. It was then estimated that there were between 200,000-240,000 seals and in the first 18 months 120,000 skins were taken. Between the years 1810-1819 there are a staggering 207 recorded ship visits.
On 11 December 1911, Mawson had arrived at Macquarie Island from Hobart, on the SY Aurora. He wrote; “Macquarie Island…was sighted on December 11…This habitable island has a length of over 20 miles and greatest breadth of 3½ miles. The chief vegetation is tussock grass and Kerguelen cabbage, but it abounds in a truly wonderful population of birds and animals. At one time it was a favourite haunt of the valuable fur seal, but for fifty years or more only odd specimens have been seen. The ruthless slaughter by the early settlers is responsible for this almost complete extermination. Sea elephants, however, are numerous, the bulls being met with up to 20 feet in length and weighing some 2 tons.”
Last evening we remained on station off the entrance to Buckles Bay and this morning the anchor was dropped at 7a.m. in 22m. Our position at Buckles Bay was 54o30.300’S; 158o56.767’E, although this will change during the day. The sea was reasonably calm, a cool south-south east wind was blowing, it was overcast and the temperature was 7.5oC. North Head and the green hills stood out prominently and in 1911, this was soon familiar to Mawson’s four men, who would spend four years here; the location of his northernmost base for the Australasian Antarctic Expedition 1911-14.
Macquarie Island has an approximate length of 34km, a width of 5km, an area of 128km2 and an annual rainfall of 905mm. Last year 1200mm was recorded. In the 19thC Emerald Island was supposed to exist south of Macquarie, however, various searches for it were unsuccessful and the island may have in fact been an iceberg. On Macquarie the rocks are 10-30 myr basalts which include pillow lavas formed when super-heated lava is cooled very quickly under the ocean. These rocks are 2-12 myrs old and some can be seen at Sandy Bay. On the plateau in the north are ultramafic rocks formed at least 6km below the earth’s surface. The island is important geologically, as it is the only known area of oceanic crust in relatively pristine condition and which is independent of any other continent. The World Heritage rating was based on this geology. Along the coast rock “stacks” are remnants of a former coastline.
The island is rich in bird life with Antarctic and Fairy Prions, Northern and Southern Giant Petrels; Grey, White-headed and Blue Petrels, Macquarie Island Shags (Blue-eyed cormorants), Light-mantled Sooty, Wanderer and Grey-headed Albatrosses and Northern (Brown) Skuas. Insects are abundant, however, in contrast there are only 45 vascular plants (have vessels conducting fluids – water plus mineral salts and food) of which three plants are endemic to the island. Because the island is too far south, there are no trees or shrubs and the flora is dominated with megaherbs, tussock grasses and ferns. Prominent plants are the Tussock grass (Poa foliosa); Macquarie Island “cabbage” (Stilbocarpis polaris) and the Macquarie Island daisy (Pleurophyllum hookeri).
As Sir Douglas Mawson wrote in 1919, “This little island is one of the wonder spots of the world.”
During the morning Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Service officers – Chris Officer in Charge, Rowena a Ranger, Marcus a Ranger along with Horse, a “tradie” (welder and boiler maker etc.) and Alex Fergus a research botanist, were brought to the ship. We had earlier vacuumed our clothing, packs and boots, followed by a briefing at 9.45. A further meeting was held in the Bar/Library, when there was an opportunity to ask the Macca staff a few questions. Lunch was at 12.30.
The ship relocated to Sandy Bay (54o34.053’S; 158o56.067’E) and by 1pm we were being shuttled ashore. There was not much of a swell and few of us received boots filled with water. Rowena gave us a short briefing and we were then left to wander and observe Southern Elephant Seals, King and Royal Penguins. Non-breeding seals were moulting, the pups having gone to sea. King Penguins, were also moulting and Royal Penguin chicks were in their down although some birds were sitting on eggs. Moulting takes 4-6 weeks. We all had a wonderful time with our cameras and an excellent wide boardwalk, provided an easy amble to the observation platform, where we looked over the Royal Penguin colony with its estimated 40,000 birds. Overall there is 1.7 million of the species at Macca. Also seen were large areas with dramatic vegetation recovery. The King Penguin colony which we inspected and has an estimated 6-8,000 individuals had this season, 74,382 chicks and even a Chinstrap Penguin 1500km off course, was seen on 13 January; the last sighting here being two years ago. Two excellent signs referred to the eradication programme, with the island following a A$24million outlay, making it clear of rabbits in 2014 and to Macca’s huge colony of Royal Royals. It was difficult to realise that in winter, the area is entirely deserted. The King Penguins also leave and of interest was the discovery in November 2016, of a sick King Penguin on a beach near Timaru, New Zealand. Unfortunately it died and was given by Department of Conservation to Canterbury Museum.
The first Zodiac returned to the ship at 3p.m. and we were all aboard before 5pm. Captain Igor kindly rode anchor and drove the ship forward, so as to maintain easy use of the gangway platform. Unfortunately the day was not as fine as we would have liked and by late afternoon light rain was falling as predicted. Nevertheless it was an extraordinary experience and one which we will not forget.
The bar was a very lively place this evening and at 7p.m. Chris from Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife, provided a most interesting report on the post-eradication recovery of vegetation. Nathan also spoke of his walk with Chris, over the top of the island which had numerous small lakes, with these, only one component of the unique landscape once traversed by Blake, during his mapping while a member of Mawson’s party in 1911-12. The dinner this evening was superb. There were many favourable comments on the presentation of both the Herb and parmesan crusted Blue cod served with bok choy and roasted potato and Scotch fillet served with quinoa and roasted zucchini. The final of vanilla panacotta served with pineapple salsa was excellent. Not only were the meals beautifully plated, but the flavours excellent. Nathan hopes that we can have a Zodiac ride off the Lusitania King Penguin colony in the morning. So with a start suggested as 6a.m. although the bar was opened, many opted for an early night on a calm sea.
Photo credit: S Blanc
Day 7: January 2017
Macquarie Island – Lusitania Bay and Buckles Bay
We had another comfortable evening in paradise and this morning began our day at Lusitania Bay, the home to 180,000 breeding pairs of King Penguins. The latest breeding season records 75,000 penguin chicks for the island. It was cool out and a swell of about a meter, meant that unfortunately we were unable to have a Zodiac cruise. The water depth at the anchorage was 50m and our position was 50o43.189’S; 158o 52.322’E. Nevertheless we had good off-shore viewing of the extensive colony (which is expanding), including three steam digester plants (one fallen over), associated with Joseph Hatch’s oil industry and Nathan noticed a Rockhopper Penguin near the ship. As Rodney Russ once said, “Eventually the digesters will rust away and the penguins will have the last laugh.”
The morning was largely overcast and at 7.15a.m. we began our relocating to Buckles Bay. At 8.15 we assembled in the Lecture Room for Nathan’s briefing. This morning an 11-15 knot NW is blowing and whether we like it or not it will be a wet landing at either Landing Beach or Garden Cove a boulder beach. In the end after Nathan had made an inspection and dropped off the Ranger party, the Zodiac operation got underway with Garden Cove the preferred option. A Rockhopper Penguin colony is on a headland nearby. We began the landing operation at 9.15 and apart for a few filled gum boots, all were landed nicely on a steep shingle beach where a Southern Elephant Seal pup, showed immense interest in the newcomers. We were now split into three groups each with a Ranger, staff member and began our tour of the station and immediate environs. This was a most interesting time and the Parks staff carefully explained the various parts of the station including no-go areas such as the magnetic recording area and we walked along the western mixed course sand and shingle beach, with good viewings of Gentoo Penguins (this season, 20 chicks at the colony we passed), the colony of Macquarie Island Cormorants and were lucky not to be bombarded by pavlova from Skuas as they flew above our heads against the wind. From the platform on top of Razorback, we had excellent views of the station, surroundings areas of the isthmus, the location where Light-mantled Sooty Albatross breed and of rejuvenating, lush vegetation, amongst which elephant seals, some 400-500kg, were grunting and snorting in their wallows. Time was also spent on a platform accessed by a short boardwalk where there were digestion boilers and excellent display panels.
At the station where our tour was concluded, we met staff including the Station Leader Esther Rodewald, who provided a superb morning tea with Devonshire scones and managed to deplete our monetary resources. Postage for postcards was already organised on board by Agnes and books, tea towels and other items, were purchased, with Helen the station Doctor assisting.
David was particularly pleased with his landing. He is gathering material for a biography on Harold Hamilton, one of Mawson’s five men and a naturalist who wintered here in 1912-13, and who had attended his former secondary school, Waitaki, in Oamaru. The location of the meteorological station including holes from which instrument supports were once attached was located and photographed, along with the site of the expedition hut, in the vicinity of the station flag pole.
Before departing the AAD station many of us observed (at 12.15 Australian time) release of a helium balloon and instrument package. It was then time for departure with Nathan and Samuel showing the benefit of their long experience in handling small boats, in an increasingly rough sea. We all made it safely onto the ship, had a hot shower and a nice hot lunch.
At 3p.m. a good audience attended David’s second lecture “Lost in the Mists – Douglas Mawson and Macquarie Island”. The presentation outlined the work undertaken by Mawson’s five men at his northern outpost in 1911-13. The results included the first detailed survey and geology done of the island, the detailed meteorological, observations, extensive collection of natural history specimens and the first wireless transmissions sent from Antarctica. It was, however, not a happy party as there were frequent clashes and the leader was not suitable, as was one of the wireless operating staff. A shortage of food did not help matters and we were not all that enthusiastic at the idea, of eating elephant seal heart stuffed with herbs then roasted, along with liver or kidneys. The lecture was over just in time as at 3.20, when we rounded the south end of the island. We began to feel the full brunt of the wild sea, with water washing portholes and the occasional big roll of the ship. On one of these rolls a quantity of crockery ready for the Crew evening meal, left the tables and hit the deck. The remainder of the afternoon was spent relaxing in the cabin and enjoying our photographs.
Only a small group gathered in the Bar/Library and in spite of the frequent rolling of the ship, and difficult work for our chefs and stewardesses, an excellent expedition dinner of roast pork sirloin or chicken supreme was served. Staff assisted crew with clearing tables and this was very much appreciated. As with last evening most retired early to the cabin and Nathan advised we can expect a more comfortable day tomorrow. Tod, however, suggested we can expect a further 85 hours of ship rolling for a few days yet. He must have a special power from somewhere higher up, to receive such details.
Photo credit: S Blanc
Day 8: January 2017
Southern Ocean
The front went through last night and this morning we rose to a calm sea and a bright sunny day and a small amount of cloud along the horizon. At 7.30a.m. we were on a course of 231.4o, and at 56o 26.702’S and 155o 20.960’E, as we moved along nicely at 11.1 knots. The air temperature was a cool 4.5oC. Nathan put satellite ice maps on the wall and while there is some heavy ice in the area of interest to us, this is always liable to change quickly and a front anticipated over the next few days can change the situation in a matter of hours.
This morning two-three unidentifiable whales were sighted and a Royal or Rockhopper Penguin was also seen. An enthusiastic bird observer is Pete from England who has assembled a magnificent “expedition book” with colour illustrations of birds, copies of previous logs, maps and other details, he can refer to during Voyage 1664. At 9.05 Nathan advised we can expect little change in the weather today and that this may continue tomorrow.
At 10a.m. we assembled in the Lecture Room for a presentation by Samuel on “Penguins”. This was a superb lecture complimented with excellent photographs, mostly by Samuel who then began with a history of early sightings. The first was by the French explorer, Jean Baptiste Bouvet, who reported penguins 33 years before the British mariner James Cook. Cook, however, during his voyages of discovery, described seven of the 18 species of penguins and the French explorer, Dumont D’Urville, went as far as naming a penguin after his wife Adéle; now the Adelié Penguin. The oldest description of a King Penguin is from 1768 by Thomas Pennant. This was followed by discussion on the evolution of penguins with the fossil record indicating ancestors lived on land 30-40 mya. These were two metres high and weighed about 100kg with superb skeletal fossils found on the Antarctic Peninsula and in North Otago New Zealand. We then learned about the various species and where they are found, and aspects concerned with adaption to life in water, such as heavier bones, the special uropygial gland which produces as oily substance transferred by the beak for waterproofing and the thick plumage over a layer of fat. Aspects of reproduction, physiology, diet and predation were covered. At conclusion of the lecture, we were asked if we would be prepared in our life time, to be like an Emperor Penguin and fast for eight years, walk 40,000 kilometres and like an Adelié be able to scratch our head with a foot.
This morning the Iceberg Sighting Competition was announced. The Rules are simple – must be the size of a double-decker bus above sea level; it must been sighted visually and not by radar and no Staff or Crew can enter and bribes are unacceptable.
At 3p.m. our fine polar jacket was issued and the first part of the acclaimed production Longitude was screened at 4p.m. The sea calmed down and several Broad-billed (?) Prions were about the ship.
The Antarctic Convergence, a temperature and salinity boundary of the Southern Ocean, a feature of great interest to oceanographers and biologists, was crossed. At 4p.m. seawater temperature was 6o and at 9p.m. 7o indicating we had crossed the Convergence. The end of the day was on us quickly and this evening again enjoyed an excellent meal with many favourable comments on the John Dory fish and the lamb.
Day 9: January 2017
Southern Ocean: First icebergs
We started the day well, with another calm sea last evening and at 8a.m, were still over deep water (3559m) and on a course of 231.7o. We crossed the South East Ridge and soon will be in the Antarctic Coastal Current. The water temperature was a cool 3oC and air 5oC. Not a piece of ice in sight and just the occasional bird.
At 9a.m. Nathan announced we still had around 200 nautical miles to go to the next way point and we then head south, until 80-90km from our next intended location. At 10a.m. to music of “The Great Southern Land” by Jimmy Barnes, and now in the French sector Terre Adelie, we assembled in the Lecture Room for a mandatory pre-Antarctic briefing.
This was an excellent briefing. It began with IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators); a member funded and run organisation based in the USA, with a Secretariat and established in 1991. The objective is to help protect Antarctica and Heritage Expeditions is one of the first to become a member of IAATO and the company also assists IMO (International Maritime Organisation) with hydrographic data. IAATO has a series of guidelines which were discussed and covered such aspects as protection of wildlife including the 5m rule, litter, care with vegetation and the aim is for all of us to become Ambassadors for Antarctica. No unmanned aerial craft is permitted without appropriate approval and Specially Protected Areas (SPAs) with colonies of birds and plants, along with historic sites, have special requirements to be adhered to.
We viewed an excellent new presentation “Going Ashore Visitors Landing from Ships and Yachts” which covered all the points mentioned by Nathan and the primary aim is to enjoy and enrich our experience. Nathan emphasised that all staff have had previous Antarctic experience and said “We have to remain rigidly flexible”.
Nathan discussed the next 6-7 days and in this we had the benefit of his extensive experience. We will head towards Davis Bay and are in “expedition mode” which we will enjoy as much as possible. None of us, he said, have been to Davis Bay and no formal programme will be followed. Watch is being kept on what the ice is doing along with the weather. We can now look much of interest – whales; Emperor and other penguins, flying birds and ICE in its many forms. We have, however, yet to sight an iceberg.
Following the briefing we vacuumed our clothing, to ensure no foreign material from Macquarie Island enters Antarctica.
Just before noon three Humpback Whales were observed off the port bow, along with a raft of Shearwaters. We were now moving along at 9.2 knots on a course of 231.3o. It was now overcast, and light snow along with occasional light rain, was falling. Dr Pat mentioned he had seen an iceberg suddenly appear out of the mist. The bridge now had the radar on and an E-SE was blowing and the sea had picked up.
At 3.30 we assembled in the Lecture Theatre for a showing of the excellent film “The Silence Calling” which covered the history of Australia’s Antarctica programme. This was narrated by well-known journalist Tim Bowden, the title having come from his excellent book of the same subject. David in a few introductory words spoke of Robert Service and his writing of the Canadian wilderness, the love for poetry by Shackleton and his men and he then read poetry from Peter Fitzsimons mammoth publication “Mawson”. We were into the film, when Nathan announced the first iceberg had been sighted. This led to vacating seats and after a brief look at the block of ice on the horizon, the film resumed.
The berg was sighted at 3.03p.m. by Janet however, the prize based on time was awarded to Margaret F. who had predicted 03.15 and received an excellent bottle of red wine. The position when seen was 63o34.56’S; 137o49.43’E. The berg was a large brilliant white block of ice on the horizon, below strato-cumulus cloud and there was scarcely a ripple on the sea. Helen A. was second with a time of 03.45. Nathan pointed out, the origin of the berg probably went back 5-15 years and that 7/10ths is below the surface. Of interest was sighting of a lone Giant Petrel and as the berg drew alongside the ship, its height was calculated at 40m.
We now looked forward to the South Magnetic Pole and considered ourselves as among the few people who have travelled over this location by sea that would have this experience. Nathan assembled us in the Lecture Room where David and Samuel spoke briefly about the Magnetic Pole, its history and movement over the decades since the first plotting of its position on 16 January 1909. Presently the South Magnetic Pole is located at 64o2’S 136o3’E. During Mawson’s expedition in 1912 the Kiwi, Eric Webb, visited the general area and having made observations which took 2½ hours with 250-300 instrument readings, concluded they had missed the actual site “by a goodly number of miles.”
Soon the berg was beside our ship and Dr Pat enjoyed the “clarity of the top against the grey sky”. Of great beauty was the iridescent blue below the water line, subtle blue on the tall shear faces of the berg and the wave action that had created toadstool-like ice features.
At 9pm a large tabular berg was observed and again many photographs were taken. Most of us then decided to have a rest before we arrive at the area of the South Magnetic Pole, with an ETA about Midnight.
Photo credit: S Blanc
Day 10: January 2017
Southern Ocean at Sea to Cape Denison
The night was long as we ploughed through flat ice adorned with a few Emperor Penguins, then entered dense pack that jolted the sleepers awake. Clear water followed till the first morning viewing of the continent shielded by the 72km behemoth that was B09B iceberg. We changed course to round the southern edge of ice partially-blocking our access to Commonwealth Bay. Stillwell Island was obvious to port, named after the quiet retiring mineralogist, one of three of Mawson’s men who almost succumbed to carbon monoxide poisoning! They lost consciousness for two hours after using a kerosene stove inside Aladdin’s Cave – the snow hole where provisions were stashed – and were lucky to survive!
In true Mawson fashion, we ‘Crossed the Circle’ today at 66 degrees 33 minutes, counted down by Samuel from the bridge. A toast to the great heroes - Mawson and his men - and the ‘mark of the penguin’ stamped on our foreheads celebrated this great occasion.
Pressing on into the pack, the captain and crew continued to nudge aside large ice floes, startling their recumbent Adélie Penguins and the odd lolling Weddell seal. Anticipation continued to build as we suddenly broke through the pack and the continent stretched ahead of us across open water. The memorial cross, erected in the memory of Ninnis and Mertz, guarded the valley where tiny huts were framed against an ice cap slashed by crevasses. Adélie penguins frolicked on the shore completely disregarding the rising wind, now our biggest concern. As we approached the coast, our anemometer recorded wind speeds of 35 metres per second, or 70 knots, so our landing plans were put on hold.
With our ship at drift in the bay, the horizon to the north seemed to be delivering thicker and thicker pack ice, as well as a range of huge icebergs. As the wind whistled off the ice cap, many thoughts turned to hoosh and pemmican as we supped thai pumpkin soup and, sticky date pudding – probably meals close to those dreamt of by Mawson’s men as they ate penguin meat and omelettes when not sledging. Knowing that Mawson returned alone from 37 days on the ice where he survived on only 360 grams of food a day (equivalent to half a tin of baked beans) – we should be creating good thermogenesis for ourselves!
After lunch we attempted to reach the anchorage again. As we approached, we had views east and could see that Boat Harbour was still iced in and a forbidding ice-wall clad the entire coastline within view. With the wind speeds now rising to above 130 kilometres an hour, the Captain turned the ship away and recalled our bosun from where he had been standing on the bow ready to release the anchor. Although we were experiencing winds that were just above the ‘average’ recorded by Mawson on the puffometer (with the maximum being 320 km/hr) it was still well beyond safe speeds for operating Zodiacs. Expedition plans remain fluid as ice and weather dictates our next moves.
Day 11: December 2017
Commonwealth Bay
Our expedition leader, Howard, was like a penguin on a drifting floe overnight, popping out of bed repeatedly to check the wind and water conditions at Commonwealth Bay! Wind speeds dropped to a more benign 17 knots at 5 am but as Captain Igor pushed back into the bay through ice floes, katabatic winds of 70 knots were once again funnelling down the geographic depression from the ice cap into the bay… so slumber continued. With ice floes coming from east to west and already moving six nautical miles overnight, the Captain decided to elude the ice grasp and take us out into iceberg alley. Still too windy for Zodiacs, a ship’s cruise amongst the majestic bergs gave us an elevated view. Appearing to slide closely past our portholes, the mostly tabular giants had crevasses, leaning seracs and some angular geometric designs that were framed against the dappled gently curving ice cap.
Samuel acquainted us with the inner world of icebergs. Considering that a snowflake can take 100 years to become an ice grain, some icebergs could be 900,000 years old. Greenland glaciers are the racers, recording speeds of 40 km/ day and the confluence of two or more glaciers will form an ice shelf or if projecting out over the sea, an ice tongue, like the previous Mertz Glacier tongue once 100 km long, but broken off thanks to a collision with B09B iceberg. Forces on these tabular bergs, as many as 30,000 in four square kilometres, include wind, sea including distant tsunamis, and land when grounded and gouging the sea bed. Only 3 per cent of the earth’s water is fresh, but 70 per cent of this is held in glaciers – hence the strange, seemingly crazy, scheme to gird a tabular berg and guide it into the currents that would transport this water source to dry countries!
Our travel today has been overseen by grounded tabular bergs, moving smaller bergs, bergy bits, growlers, pack ice and floes where surprised Adélie Penguins, Crabeaters and Weddell Seals observed our progress. Our route took us north at full pelt – around the projected ice pack, and along a triangular route south to Commonwealth Bay. The Christmas Eve delights continued however as groups of Emperors towered over watching Adélie Penguins then tobogganed over to the edge of a Wedgewood - blue bergy bit with its own swimming pool. Chief mate kindly circled the ship to take us back for a closer look at these stretch penguins!
Christmas Eve festivities brought out special outfits in the bar and dinner was of a lusciousness to fit the occasion. A baby’s blush of slit sunset formed a beautiful backdrop to a pod of blowing and breaching humpbacks while Antarctic petrels vied for our attention.
Photo credit: Heritage Expeditions
Photo credit: Heritage Expeditions
Day 12: December 2017
Commonwealth Bay
Santa and his elephant seals seemed to be bumping and grinding a lot over the ice floe – oh, no it was just Akademik Shokaskiy pushing south towards Commonwealth Bay for another attempt to reach the huts. Springing out of bed this sunny, calm Christmas morning we enjoyed surreal pavlova ice sparkling in sunlight from horizon to horizon and Ingrid experienced her first white Christmas!
As we broke intro open water to the north of Cape Denison, it seemed as if our planets had aligned, but once again we were thwarted. Solid pack ice to our west stopped us from finding a way around the unsurveyed patch of Commonwealth Bay and even had we been able to, the coastline tempest of lifting the sea surface to the sky confirmed the katabatic winds bubbling the water near the shore. Spotting two interesting icebergs on the way to B09B, we left the pack ice behind and headed for some more! With five Zodiacs in the water, we burbled and bumbled along the edge of crumbling bergy bits and cruised the length of a tabular berg with leaning seracs. Screams of delight accompanied every plucky Adélie that plunged in or bounced out of the water, all the time squawking valiantly their Christmas Greetings.
Photo credit: A Breniere
Days 13 to 37
Unexplored region – no previous log notes available.
Days 38 to 39:
Heard Island – Atlas Cove – November 2012
The day began with Rodney’s announcement that we were moving along the island to find a better weather window. The situation remained uncertain about a landing until we neared Spit Bay after breakfast. Suddenly we were treated to the magnificent sight of Big Ben, bathed in sunlight in a patch of clear blue sky. It was as though the curtains in a theatre had suddenly been raised and the show was finally about to begin. We could not believe our luck - how many stories are there of people who spend a month on the island without ever seeing the summit at all? Fortunately this was just the first of many blessings we received from the island.
The wind was still too strong to operate where we were, so the decision was made to go back to Atlas Cove in the hope we would find some shelter there. Our decision was richly rewarded and we anchored in the cove surrounded by magnificent cliffs, adorned with frozen waterfalls as Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses called to each other as they soared above.
Braving overcast skies and passing hail showers, the much awaited first landing took place after an early lunch. In order to maximise our experience ashore, Rodney scheduled the last Zodiac back to the ship for 21:00 and dinner for 22:00, so that everyone could get as much as possible out of the day. First to greet us at the landing site were some Elephant Seal weaners and a cheerful group of recently fledged King Penguins. Apart from them the place looked very cold and rather unwelcoming in the steel cold light with glaciers covering the cliffs.
The first group to get away was Graham Budd’s team, who had a special permit to do some research on the historic King Penguin colony and record any changes. The camera team left with them to record their activities. The remainder of the group spread out as soon as we landed, with most people heading around the rocky corner towards the Rockhopper and Macaroni Penguin colony. A few more Heard Island Shags and a lone Sheathbill were spotted along the way which made it a great day for the birders. We were allowed to explore a fairly large area and there were many things to see. The location of the former ANARE base, the remains of ‘Admiralty Hut’ and an old station site were clearly visible. At Sealers Corner we investigated the scattered tripots on the beach which told of the old days of sealing gangs that frequently raided the island until virtually all the seals were wiped out. Some of us wandered around the Nullarbor, whilst others preferred wildlife watching and enjoyed the company of King Penguins and Elephant Seals on the beach. The scenery was hauntingly breathtaking, and the weather cold and windy, prompting some to take the first ride back to the ship at 1700.
While ashore at Atlas Cove we were well rewarded for the 13 day sea voyage and three nights of disrupted storm-tossed sleep when the persistent clouds were suddenly blown away and Big Ben revealed itself once again. The entire mountain could be seen clearly all the way to the summit, and we enjoyed magnificent views of Mawson’s Peak, steaming in the sunshine. It was a truly awesome event and the beach scenery changed dramatically at the same time. We were now looking at a transformed island. It was incredible to contemplate that on this little speck in the ocean at the end of the earth, where life clings on desperately in a harsh and unforgiving climate, we could be enjoying a rare moment of beauty and calm.
There are no words to describe the feeling we had that evening. It was the most unbelievable day in a place so seldom visited it was hard to believe our luck with the best weather one could imagine! Even people who had been to Heard Island before said that it was unusual and incredible to have weather like that in Atlas Cove. The last boat very reluctantly left the shore at 21:30, to get back in time for late dinner. Everyone was exhausted but extremely happy. We had a special celebratory dinner to mark the day and gave a cheer of gratitude to Rodney for providing the opportunity to visit this magic place.
Photo credit: S Blanc
Photo credit: G Riehle
Photo credit: S Blanc
McDonald Islands – November 2012
The wind had picked up quite dramatically by the morning so we were doubly grateful for the previous day. We were woken by Rodney’s announcement that we are going to go down the coast and see what this crazy weather was doing on the Spit Bay side. Unfortunately, when we got there, it was even worse than Atlas Cove so we turned back.
In the meantime, Graham Budd gave a riveting presentation about early expeditions to Heard Island and attempts to conquer the Big Ben summit. Some of those stories were truly fascinating and we felt very privileged to have Graham on board with us.
We had lunch in the shelter of Atlas Cove and decided to steam across for a closer look at the McDonald Islands. As we approached the islands the cloud kindly lifted and we enjoyed a beautiful view of the islands in the sunshine. Because the coastal waters of McDonald are largely unchartered, we did not attempt to get too close and stayed 1.5 miles offshore. Even from this distance however, we could see the enormous Macaroni Penguin colony and a good number of King Penguins on the beach. What we did not see were any Fur Seals, even though they had historically been found here. There were numerous seabirds flying around which made for some excellent photographic opportunities.
For most of the day many people caught up on sleep and sorted out photos after the marathon effort the day before. The exhaustion was probably magnified as our long day had come after 12 lazy days at sea doing very little other than eat and relax. The memories and pictures we got from the day before though were well worth it. As we came back into Atlas Cove for the night, we noticed that the wind had dropped, so we had high hopes for another great day. Everyone retired content and looked forward to our next attempt on the wilful island.
Photo credit: G Riehle
Photo credit: K Ovsyanikova
Atlas Cove revisited – November 2012
When we awoke next morning, our luck had continued to hold and Atlas Cove greeted us with good weather yet again. After an 8:30am breakfast we chose which excursion we preferred and split into two groups. One was to revisit our first landing site, but this time from the other side by the old hut, while the other group would take a Zodiac cruise along the cliffs of the Laurens Peninsula to explore the penguin and albatross colonies.
Those who chose to land again were led by Rodney and Kate, and spent a beautiful morning amongst seals and penguins, enjoying the view of distant glaciers with occasional glimpses of Big Ben. During this visit Kate collected some samples of plants that were needed for research. There was quite a lot of activity on the beach that morning. Penguins rushed backwards and forwards from the sea and a few Sheathbills flew by with one making a close acquaintance with the boats. Then an Elephant Seal pup got very comfortable on somebody’s dry bag and wouldn’t move off it!
The Zodiac cruise with expedition team members Adam, Samuel and Katya was also very successful under the stunningly beautiful cliffs on the corner of the peninsula where a number of waterfalls ran down from the melting ice. The cruise started at the big Macaroni Penguin colony where many Sheathbills were running between the penguins, collecting whatever they could. As the boats went further down the coast, they encountered a good number of Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses, who were flying around the cliffs, many displaying their beautiful courtship flight, where partners fly together synchronously while making a distinctive call. The boats went all the way down to the Rockhopper and Macaroni Colony, which we had observed from the ship two days before. Then we were offered the opportunity to either go back to the ship or have a brief landing at the hut site.
Towards lunchtime we started to gather back at the boats, because sadly it was the time to leave. It was hard to leave the island that had treated us so kindly and even revealed itself twice to us in the most spectacular way. How many stories are out there about people who would wait for weeks simply to get ashore? We had been truly blessed, but now it was time to leave this amazing and special place at the end of the world.
After lunch, many went outside to bid farewell to the island that was soon to disappear from our sights. In a parting goodwill gesture Big Ben showed itself again so that we would remember it fondly and perhaps return to this remote speck in the vast ocean. We were all very sad to leave and many spent time on deck watching the speck become smaller on the horizon. And so began our long journey home. 
Photo credit: S Blanc
Photo credit: A Russ
Heard Island – November 2002
Although very windy we could land and explored the area around the Cove in the morning and evening and were able to visit Southern Rockhopper, Macaroni and Gentoo colonies and were ourselves investigated by several parties of King Penguin. Only a few Sheathbills were around, which on close inspection had shorter thicker bills with upturned nostrils and pinkish-grey legs instead of pink compared to Crozet birds. Heard Shag were plentiful and frequently circled the ship on subsequent days affording excellent photo opportunities. We were also able to view the only Prion colony in the world where the birds, Fulmar Prions, visit the colony in daylight and although windblown I was treated to fantastic views. The slopes of the beaches were honeycombed with Petrel burrows and we even discovered a South Georgian Diving-Petrel visible in a shallow burrow, so visible it was later eaten by the plentiful Brown Skuas. The Cove was littered with snorting Elephant Seals and the odd Antarctic Fur and single Leopard Seal were also found. The next day we attempted a landing at Spit Beach but bad weather would not allow a landing. In recompense we sailed back to MacDonald trailed around Heard by masses of Albatrosses, Petrels, Diving-Petrels, Storm-Petrels and Shags. We had a closer inspection of the new volcanos and discovered Macaroni Penguins nesting all the way to the new summit. No luck with landing on Heard again in the afternoon or the next morning so we set off for Kerguelen.
Days 40 to 42: November 2012
At Sea crossing the Indian Ocean
Calm conditions at sea. We chummed and it quickly picked up a very impressive following of birds led by large numbers of White-chinned Petrels, many showing extensively white chins and throats. Trailing behind was a spectacular concentration of Wilson’s Storm-Petrel and various albatross of six species came in and out through the day. A definite highlight was spectacular views of the graceful and localised Sooty Albatross. Although we did observe a lot of Wandering Albatross, none of them was the hoped for Amsterdam Albatross. We continued our course ever westwards under relatively smooth conditions, a pair of Brown Skuas was sighted.
The most unexpected bird so far was a Jouanin’s Petrel seen and photographed at the stern. As this is generally a warm water species in the Indian Ocean, this sighting may well be the most southerly record ever. Sea mammal numbers have been low so far; however a few beaked whales of uncertain species were seen briefly.
Photo credit: S Blanc
Day 43 to 45: November 2012
At Sea crossing the Indian Ocean
The day dawned with White-chinned Petrels and Flesh-footed Shearwater in our wake. Surprisingly an Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatross appeared amongst the low numbers of Indian Yellow-nosed Albatrosses – obviously a long way from home. A timely talk by Adam, one of the onboard ornithologists, entitled ‘Albatrosses of the World’ led to people putting into practice the theory they learned during this very informative lecture. Meanwhile up on deck, a Barau’s Petrel was seen. This species breeds on Reunion but is very scarce at this latitude. It was very interesting to see another later in the day.
A mixed group of Sei and Fin Whales were seen by those on deck before Samuel from the expedition team gave a fascinating talk on the Amsterdam Island Albatross. This is the rarest albatross in the world, with only perhaps 120 birds still in existence. His presentation also highlighted the difficulty of the task to find even one of these birds in the vastness of the Indian Ocean. Several cold water species such as Blue Petrel were sighted. Another feature was the low density but unremitting Long-tailed Jaeger migration and White-chinned Petrel were present. The day ended with some great photographic opportunities at the stern as seabirds swept in close to the ship in the glorious evening light.
Photo credit: S Blanc
Days 46 to 47: November 2012
At Sea crossing the Indian Ocean
Entering Australian waters birders scan their Aussie list scouring the sea for something weird and wonderful. Alas only the standard fare was on offer with even greater numbers of Great-winged Petrels, but the big change today was the 20 or so Little Shearwaters seen and two distant Sperm Whales which added excitement during the day.
Photo credit: S Blanc
Day 48: November 2012
Fremantle, Western Australia
Bridled Terns, Wedge-tailed Shearwaters and Flesh-footed Shearwaters are in the vicinity. Great vistas of Fremantle and the city of Perth unfolded as we cruised between Rottnest Island and the mainland.
