30 May 2023

Skirting the Scorched Earth of Tsutsujigahara Nature Trail

  Overnight Heritage Adventurer had made the tricky passage through 2 straits separating Japan from the Russian held Kuril Islands. The transit is tricky both because of shallow waters - only allowing 2 metres below the keel in some places - and because of the requirement to stay south to remain in Japanese waters. Captain Tomas and his crew managed both very well.

  The ship did not reach Abashiri until lunch time which allowed time for an interesting and informative talk from Osnat on The Ainu - the Indigenous People of Hokkaido.

  While the afternoon excursion was all about the volcanic features of the Akan-Mashu National Park - the highlight was botanical. The first call was to Bihoro Pass Observatory for an overview of Lake Kussharo, Japan's largest crater lake. It is large indeed and shimmered in the afternoon sun. The stop at Mount Iō took us close to the sulphur crusted steaming fumaroles of the active volcanic area. From this barren earth we followed the Tsutsujigahara Nature Trail. The easy 2.5-kilometre walk transitions through a remarkable variety of plant life. Starting from the scorched earth, through scrubby Stone Pine and Labrador Tea, on to scattered White Birch and finally to a full forest cover of Mongolian Oak and Spruce with an understory of ferns and Bamboo Grass. No one had seen anything like it. Onwards and upwards to an overview of a smaller crater lake - Lake Mashu. With no streams flowing in or out, it is reputed to have some of the most transparent water on earth.

After another full day, drinks and dinner were welcomed as we sailed over to Rishiri Island.

Image (c) by: T.Todd