28 Oct 2019

Polynesian Encounter on Sikaiana

Today was going to be a day of great adventure. We were travelling to the remote atoll of Sikaiana, 110 nautical miles east of Malaita, out in the big blue of the Pacific Ocean. It had never been visited by a tourist ship before so there was great excitement on board at our journey into the unknown.

Arriving offshore just before dawn we found four islands in a large lagoon, ringed by a huge barrier reef. A small boat came out from Sikaiana to guide us through. However, the tide was falling fast, flowing against us like a river over the reef. It was also very shallow and the channel sometimes no more than a boat's width wide. After a few tight squeezes, three of the Zodiacs made it through, but the others following would have to find an easier route. Eventually they did. This was real expeditioning!

Finally approaching the shore, we were greeted by a group of young men who rushed out and performed a Haka. Immediately we knew we were in a different cultural realm. These people were Polynesians, who had migrated here hundreds of years ago. We were able to spend time wandering around their village, set amongst gardens and coconut palms, chatting to them about their lives, so different from our own. Conversation was easy because of their relaxed and welcoming nature and because their English was excellent. We sensed they were enjoying our visit as much as we enjoyed meeting them.

The islanders then put on a spectacular and very energetic song and dance performance for us. Many of the boys and girls were decorated with colourful flowers. Their songs told of village life, and the animals, plants and fish they relied on in their daily lives. It was a joyful occasion. They finished with a mass rendition of the Solomons' national anthem, to which we responded with the New Zealand one, a reciprocal act that was much appreciated.

The adventure continued as we attempted to leave. The tide had fallen so far that the reef was now higher than the surrounding ocean, with water rushing out through a channel, down a series of rapids. It was an extraordinary experience to run a white water rapid through a coral reef. Once out in the ocean again, many of us leapt into the deepest blue sea any of us is ever likely to see, for a relaxing swim. A wonderfully chilled end to another remarkable landing.

Image (c) N.Nightingale, Heritage Expeditions