08 Dec 2020

Perfect Theatre at the Antipodes Islands

We arrived mid-morning to find Antipodes Island shrouded in fog, the base of the cliffs visible as a dark horizontal crease in an otherwise white world. As Spirit of Enderby approached Ringdove Bay, the fog lifted like a curtain to reveal towering basalt cliffs and spires.

We launched all five Zodiacs immediately, and headed for the little white dots we could see above the tideline - a colony of endemic Erect-crested Penguins. A group of 20-30 were nesting on a ledge 15 metres above the sea, others hopped up the cliff towards them using their strong toe-claws for purchase. Each new arrival at the colony was roundly chided and pecked at by the rest of the penguins, each guarding its own nesting spot.

We also spotted Pipits foraging for insects, then Reischek's Parakeets (related to Red-crowned Parakeets on the New Zealand mainland) feeding on tussock seed on the steep coastal faces. We passed several more penguin colonies, seeing chicks and the odd Rockhopper amongst the groups of Erect-crested Penguins.

Groups of Subantarctic Seals (distinguished by their light facial mask and luxuriant light whiskers) rested just above the tideline, surrounded by playful pups. Several flatulent elephant seals, moulting on the bouldery beaches, followed us with their large eyes.

At this point we had only seen flying Antipodes Parakeets from a distance, so continued to scan the coastal faces for signs of these green and blue parakeets, New Zealand's largest. Then 14 of these gregarious birds flew down, landed on the rocks right in front of us and proceeded to fossick their way along the shoreline, giving us perfect views.

As the fog descended, we returned to our trusty vessel on a compass bearing, and set sail after the perfect theatre of today's adventure.

Image © C.Todd, Heritage Expeditions