15 Aug 2023

Immersed in the Finer Details of Careening Bay and Bigge Island

Boarding our Zodiacs in the early morning we were greeted by some of our expedition team who had already set up camp at Careening Bay. Phil led the first group along the beach while sharing the story of Phillip Parker King and his ship The HMS Mermaid. Tales of King's hardships including 'nail sickness' on the ship and burning the bushland to create a safe basecamp for his crew who worked to repair a leak in the hull seemed like impossible stories on the calm shore. Evidence of these events however was revealed with a visit to the Mermaid Boab Tree.

We marvelled at the enormity of the tree and the unique fruits it produced. A walk along the creek away from the tree took us through the purple paintbrushes of Mulla Mulla bushes and the varied coloured stones told of erosion of the cliffs beyond. Blue-banded Bees visited the Mulla Mulla while Carpenter Bees dipped into the nectaries of the pea plants. Brilliantly coloured stink bugs decorated the Spinifex grass along the beach. The nearby mangroves were brought to life with the raspy calls of the Great Bowerbird who had a bower just under the shady leaves. We left the talented architect to attract females while we continued to explore the unique forms of the mangroves and odd things brought ashore. Insects along the beach Spinifex and pea plants showed the diversity of animals utilising these precious resources.

An afternoon surprise awaited us as Heritage Adventurer weighed anchor just outside of Bigge Island. While loading our Zodiacs, two Humpback Whales began full-bodied breaching near the ship. We were able to marvel at this wonder before being shuttled to Bigge Island for a tide-dependent surprise. Once ashore, we walked into a cave that was revealed by the receding tide and sounds of crickets chirping and the unmistakable vibrations of a Yidaki, played by our special guest Michael Butler, echoed through the rock passageways enhancing our immersion. Soon our concert was complete and we were back aboard Heritage Adventurer with Humpback Whales slapping their fins on the surface of the sea with great splashes.

A showing of Michael's documentary on the Yidaki or Didgeridoo gave us an insight into the how these instruments are first hollowed by termites, and then smoothened by Indigenous Australians before being fully crafted into an instrument. Michael followed the showing of his documentary with another brief concert and an opportunity for us to learn how to play this unique instrument.

Image (c) by: J.Thurman