07 Dec 2019

Hardwicke Settlement and Musgrave Inlet

Today started bright early at 0630 with a Zodiac cruise over to the historic Hardwicke Settlement in Port Ross. It was fascinating to learn the history of this area which was, incredibly, set up for farming in the early 1800's. After three years, several deaths and plenty of hardship it became very apparent this was not a place to settle and those who survived left.

During our time ashore we visited the Settlement's graveyard, a sobering experience which included the grave of Isabella, a 3-month-old baby. It's hard to imagine what it must have been like for the many people who had arrived here with the hope of a better future for themselves and their families. More uplifting was our walk through the impressive forest of Southern Rata, with many of the trees being more than 500 years old.

Back on board Akademik Shokalskiy we pulled anchor and sailed south to Musgrave Peninsula for a Zodiac cruise of Musgrave Inlet. Following the coast we enjoyed great views of Rockhopper Penguins both in the water and on the land. The calm waters allowed us to explore the darkness of several caves formed by years of erosion. A highlight was entering an open roof cave; the beauty was surreal with lush vegetation trying to make a home on the cave rock walls, crystal blue waters showcasing the sea floor and playful Tui greeting and farewelling us at the cave entrance.

Once back on board we cruised south in glorious sunshine down the coast and into Carnley Harbour, led by many species of albatross and petrels. Making the most of the brilliant weather, all passengers were on deck enjoying the spectacular views as we voyaged deeper into the harbour learning about the wildlife, geography and history before starting our 36-hour journey to Macquarie Island.

Image © from file T.Kraakman, Heritage Expeditions