14 Oct 2019

Exploring the Mighty Sepik River

Terns dive-bomb the mouth of the Sepik River like fighter pilots as our Zodiacs navigate, single file, through flotillas of vegetation moving on the swift current and out into the ocean on journeys to colonise new islands.

We wake just before dawn to rain, 10 knot-winds and the Bismarck Sea gently rolling Spirit of Enderby on the first true day of our 'Melanesia Discoverer' expedition. An overcast induced darkness puts a short delay on the birder's departure before the rain eases and skies brighten. Not long after our remaining adventurers are in Zodiac's buzzing alongside the banks of one of the world's greatest river systems.

Whistling Kites call from perches atop barren trees towering above the lush, tangled jungle flanking the river's edge as Sandpipers hop between the organic debris and Great Egrets, their elegant long necks stowed like dining trays for takeoff, pass overhead.

Gibson, our local guide, flashes a betel nut-stained smile as he climbs into the Zodiac and we enter one of the rivers many tributaries. The narrow passage is lined with sago trees, the main plantation for nearby Kopar Village, and as we wind our way up the serpentine passage under a latticed cathedral of spiked green fronds he regales us with tales of the size the river's famed crocodiles can grow to.

At the village we're welcomed with elaborately costumed singsings and a traditional Dragon Dance set to the jingle of cowrie shell leg adornments and the rhythmic beat of drums. This was followed by a hilarious theatre performance which elicits screams of laughter from the local children, adults and expeditioners alike. As guests of the village we're invited to experience their traditional way of life including sago processing and crocodile hunting before exploring the unique, local crafts and carvings as children splash about in small dugout canoes at the river's edge.

With full hearts we wave our goodbyes and head back to Spirit of Enderby where we notice plumes of smoke peeling off nearby volcano Kodova Island. It's an opportunity too good to pass up, so we put lunch on hold as Captain Max takes us for a closer look before setting sail for Manus Island. As we steam north, Dan and Jessa spot a juvenile Red-footed Booby cruising off the bow chasing airborne flying fish to escaping the ship's path. Moments later a tropical Orca (Killer Whale) is spotted crossing our path, cutting in close to check out the ship while a golden sun melting into the horizon puts on one last show before dinner.

Image (c) E. Bell, Heritage Expeditions