25 Oct 2023

Discovering the Secrets of the Mighty Sepik River and Kopar Village

After boarding Heritage Adventurer in Madang yesterday afternoon on our Discover the Secrets of Melanesia voyage, we woke on anchor in the strong currents of the Sepik River - the second longest river in New Guinea. The birding group, meanwhile, had already departed at dawn on a three-hour birding Zodiac cruise. Two impressive volcanic cones were visible out to sea, both appearing to be quietly smoking.

While the birders were enjoying views of Imperial Pigeons, Fruit-doves and Blyth's Hornbills, the rest of us were excited to take our first Zodiac cruise along the dense sago-lined edge of the Sepik River, prior to our visit to Kopar Village near the confluence of the river and sea.

When we all met up ashore at Kopar Village we were greeted by a wonderful performance of traditional dance (including the region's famed Dragon Dance), song and drums, the performers adorned with an assortment of feathered headdresses, pendent necklaces and leg bracelets of shells that jingled as feet were stamped in time with the drum rhythms. 

After the thrilling performances there was time to enjoy a tour the village and admire the handicrafts on sale. Crudely carved iconic Papuan statues contrasted with long, finely finished wooden masks. A variety of lightweight yet incredibly strong Bilum bags, some traditional and others more colourful, were also on display as we browsed the shopping opportunities around the 'village green'. Some of the artisans selling their crafts had travelled for several days down river, and were hopefully happy with the purchases made during our visit. 

Bidding farewell to our lovely hosts, we headed back to the air-conditioned comfort of Heritage Adventurer for lunch and to continue our journey towards the seldom-visited Manus Island in the Bismarck Archipelago. As we steamed through the remarkably calm seas, the birders enjoyed a constant stream of shearwaters and terns, the occasional booby and, incredibly, a very close Beck's Petrel, one of the least-known and mythical seabirds of this region.

Images © S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions