24 Mar 2021

Conservation and Ancient Rock Art on Chatham Island

Today started with guests piling into expedition bus Albatross in Waitangi for our final day on Chatham Island with first stop Awatotara Valley on the South Coast.

It's here we meet pioneering conservation-minded farmers Bruce and Liz Tuanui who are at the forefront of a wave of locals establishing private reserves returning the wilds and wildlife to Chatham Island. Founders of Taiko Camp and the Taiko Trust, the final stop gap from extinction for the world's rarest seabird the Chatham Island Taiko/Magenta Petrel, the pair have brought back the dawn chorus through their 70-acre regenerated woodland Tuku Reserve, along with intensive trapping of rats, cats and possums, where endemic Chatham Island Pigeon, Warbler, Tui, Fantails and Parakeets now flourish.

Inspired by their amazing stories we split up into two groups, short and long walkers, to explore Tuku Reserve hiking through spectacular native forest accompanied by birdsong and thrilling encounters with several curious species which come to take a closer look at the reserve's new inhabitants.
Back in Waitangi there's time to explore this Chatham's hub, indulge in some shopping and school up on the Islands' history at the excellent museum. A now iconic signpost indicating the trifecta of Bottle Store, Catholic Church and Hospital proves especially amusing.

Our final adventure for the day sees us head out to the Nunuku's Cave where ancient picture glyphs depicting penguins, seals, seahorses and birds decorate the entrance to a small cave. Much mystery surrounds the culturally significant Moriori rock art as to when it was created and by whom. Our guide Jane tells us there are two schools of thought: one is that it was done by peaceful leader Nunuku, while others believe they are the handiwork of mischievous outcast Moe. Though legend suggests Nunuku is the more likely of the two to have undertaken the work given its theme.

As we are waiting for our Zodiac back to Spirit of Enderby, we spot a Sevengill Shark nosing around the wharf, no doubt looking for, or for more of, the luckless drowned possums seen floating here earlier.

Image (c) I.Wilson, Heritage Expeditions