18 Oct 2023

Arfak Mountain Birding and Exploring Manokwari's Sanggeng Market

For the birders and nature lovers, comprising more than half of our guests on Indonesian Explorer, our day started exceptionally early, with breakfast available from 0245 and our Zodiac departure into Manokwari at 0330. Once ashore we boarded a fleet of 4x4 vehicles and, escaping the heat of the lowlands, headed up to the scenic Arfak Mountains. Arriving as it was getting light, we met our local Papuan guides and split into smaller groups before radiating out to various blinds in the beautiful primary forests just a stones-throw from the road.

As we quietly made our way to the blinds we were treated to a wonderful dawn chorus of birds, insects and tree frogs, quite different from that heard on Waigeo Island the previous day. In the isolated Arfak Mountains we expected to see a completely different subset of Birds-of-Paradise to those seen in the Raja Ampat islands, and we certainly weren't disappointed. Between us, we saw six different species, including the secretive Western Parotia, Superb and Magnificent Birds-of-Paradise, and the rarely observed Black-billed Sicklebill. Other birds hanging around near the blinds included the lovely but unobtrusive Green-backed Robin, whilst overhead Grey Crows, Black-bellied Cicadabirds, and Pesquet's (or Dracula) Parrots added to the constant but delightful cacophony of unfamiliar sounds.

Meanwhile, while part of the expedition was appreciating the relaxing sights and sounds of the rainforests at 1500m, the city lovers were enjoying the busy town of Manokwari with its chaotic market places, and a lovely nature walk at the Table Mountain forest. Opportunities to buy local artwork and handicrafts, as well as genuine 'koteka' penis-gourds, kept the obligate shoppers very focused at the multicultural Sanggeng Market.

Early afternoon, we all returned to the luxury of Heritage Adventurer's airconditioned staterooms and suites and some tasty cuisine before enjoying a well-deserved rest or listening to lectures by Frank and Bruce. As we headed eastwards towards our next destination, the outline of the mountainous Vogelkop Peninsula gradually faded into the distance, and those on deck were rewarded by yet another stunning sunset.

Images © S. Bradley, Heritage Expeditions