30 May 2024

Above the clouds in Hokkaido

Those choosing to wake early were rewarded with the stunning sight of Heritage Adventurer entering Muroran Harbour, Hokkaido under the impressive Hakucho Bridge. 

As custom on our journey, we selected our favourite options and split into groups to explore. We passed through the city centre of Muroran and quickly emerged into the surrounding countryside where we would spend our day.

Those opting for the park option made their way to Lake Toya, part of the Shikotsu-Toya National Park and the location of the 2008 G8 summit. At the lookout, we enjoyed grand-scale views of this almost circular caldera lake ringed with lush green vegetation. Japan’s third largest (at 70.7 km2) and sixth deepest lake (at 180m) is famous for the clarity of its impossibly blue water and is named ‘to-ya’ meaning ‘the shore of a lake’ in the Ainu language. After capturing the moment at the Toya sign, we headed to Mount Usu an active volcano which last erupted in 2000, and Showa Shinzan one of Japan's youngest mountains which rose out of a flat wheat field to a height of 290 metres during volcanic activity between 1943 and 1945. We captured some great shots of the mountain named after Emperor Showa before ascending Mount Usu aboard the cable car gondola known as Usuzan Ropeway. We ascended 1,370 metres in just 6 minutes passing through the clouds to a perfect day above. At the top, we enjoyed incredible views of all the sites we had just explored.

For lunch, we returned to our trusty expedition vessel or sampled local delicacies at a traditional sushi train or soba noodle house. Our next stop ashore was to the Jigokudani (Hell Valley), Lake Oyunuma under Mount Hiyori and Lake Oku no Yu. Hell Valley lived up to its name displaying an incredible red and white earth landscape venting scorching sulphur steam, providing fantastic photo opportunities. Jigokudani was named for its traditional depiction of Hell, but we enjoyed a pleasant experience with a boardwalk taking guests into its steamy heart. Some of us decided to climb further and headed to Lake Oyunuma at 377 metres and a lovely walk through the forest to a beautiful view of this round, gourd-shaped crater with a sulphur spring reaching 130°C. From the lookout, we found Oku no Yu, a black sulphur spring with a surface temperature of 85°C and was especially fragrant.

Guests choosing the arts option headed to the Upopoy National Ainu Museum and Park. This museum, inaugurated in 2020, is the first national museum dedicated to the indigenous Ainu people of Japan and the islands to the north. We browsed the excellent exhibits showing many aspects of Ainu life, culture, history and the current situation. The cultural performance of song and dance in traditional costume was a highlight. We then stopped at a nearby farm restaurant for steak, fish or vegetarian burgers Japanese style. Those of us who chose to visit Noboribetsu Onsen were treated to a hot bath in the sulphur-rich water, known to provide many health benefits.

We all reconvened on board Heritage Adventurer to receive a rousing and generous farewell including fireworks, and as we entered the nutrient-rich waters of the Tsugaru Strait numerous seabirds and a pod of dolphins were spotted.

Images © E Bell & J Mishina, Heritage Expeditions