14 Apr 2015

30 Days in Antarctica: A Passenger's Review

Ben and Ros Aspinall travelled on board the Spirit of Enderby to the Ross Sea in 2015. 

Trip Review: Review: 30 Days In Antarctica

My wife and I have recently returned from a 30 day voyage to the Ross Sea region of Antarctica and the Sub Antarctic Islands aboard the “Spirit of Enderby”.

We went on the January, 2015 “In the Wake of Scott and Shackelton” expedition operated by Heritage Expeditions, New Zealand’s expedition travel company. I can only try to sum up this once in a life time experience with the words privileged, humbled, exhilarated and strangely peaceful. We have seen the very best and most beautiful that this Earth has to offer. The focus of this voyage is nature and its conservation.

For the past 30 years, Heritage Expeditions has pioneered conservation-driven voyages to some of the most wild, least-explored and biologically rich regions on the planet. Our voyage, or expedition, lived up to this reputation. On our first day aboard we were told to prepare for an adventure, where adventure means ” an unknown outcome….”. Ominous, but thankfully, true. We were expecting great things, but were not prepared for the boundless wildlife diversity, the breath-taking beauty in the colours of the ice and sea, the combined serenity and strength of mother nature, the generosity, caring and humour of our staff and crew, and the emotions evoked by the human history of exploration of the white continent. We were told at the beginning  to expect to come away “changed” by what lay ahead. It was true. We are both better people for it, with a greater respect and regard for this beautiful planet, the oceans and all of the forms of life that we share this world with. It sounds very cliche, but it is true.

Our expedition left from Invercargill, the Southern most town of New Zealand. 50 passengers set forth, with 8 experienced cruise staff and 22 Russian crew  aboard the 72 m “Spirit of Enderby” (Professor Cromov – registered name). The first week was spent making our way south into the Southern Ocean, stopping at the Snare’s Islands, Enderby Island, Auckland Island and Macquarie Island. We spent time either cruising the coast on Zodiac boats, getting up close to nature, and exploring cliffs, and sea caves or walking on the islands among the spectacular Rata forests and flowering megaherbs interacting with the ever present penguins, sea lions, seals, and sea birds of endless names and species. Strangely we began to recognise the different albatross, petrels, gulls and terns within the first few days. By the end of it all we could identify and name the 7 species of penguin we saw.

After the sub antarctic islands, we headed south, spotting our first iceberg at 61 degrees south, and crossing the Antarctic Circle with due ceremony and a Polar blast for Antarctic virgins to appease King Neptune (at 2 am on the fore deck with 5 degrees ocean water … it was voluntary – but hey I am only ever going to do this once).

Then we pushed for three days through pack ice into the Ross sea, witnessing some of the most pretty hues of blue in the ice that you will ever see anywhere, and increasing our count of penguin, seal and sea bird species. A sunset zodiak cruise among the ice, and a photogenic Emperor Penguin provided excellent photo opportunities.

Then we began 10 days of landings on the continent, in 24 hour daylight.  There are 10-12 possible landing opportunities that they can do, but usually weather and ice conditions limits these to just a few. Neptune and mother nature were kind to us and we got 9 landings. We went ashore on some of the most remote islands and beaches you can imagine, steeped in history, vibrant with hues of brown and white, and alive with…. penguins.

We explored an island who’s name sums up the barren-ness  and isolation. Inexpressible Island. Then we visited three research bases (German, Italian, South Korean) in Terra Nova Bay. I never thought I would cruise along something called the Drygalski Ice Tongue, but we did.

Then on down to the southern Ross Sea, stopping on Franklin Island with 10000 Adelie Penguins,  and reaching our southern most destination, Ross Island. Beneath the omnipresent flanks of 4000m high Mt Erebus we explored this area for 4 days, visiting the pristine, preserved huts of explorers Scott and Shackleton, and walking the volcanic shores.

The expedition highlight for most was the several hours cruising the ice edge aboard the Zodiacs beneath a beautiful blue sky, with bright sunlight and the towering sentinel of Erebus keeping watch over us, while a large pod of Minke Whales swam and fed around us. David Attenborough would have been Jealous. To top it off on our way back to the mother ship we explored a bay full of exquisitely carved icebergs glistening like icing on wedding cakes, and displaying yet more hues of fluorescent blue that, unbelievably, we had not seen yet.  

Read the full story about their adventures and expedition cruise to Antarctica.