Russia's Ring of Fire

Trip Report
Voyage # 1120
Birding the Russian Far East
13th June - 25th June 2011

(Please note that Russia's Ring of Fire will follow a slightly different itinerary to the trip log below)

Monday 13 June: Korsakov & Sea of Okhotsk

Shortly after 8:30am we boarded our bus for the 40 minute ride to the Port of Korsakov and were all soon onboard the Spirit of Enderby - our home for the next couple of weeks.

We were able to begin birding on the top deck while at anchor and a variety of species were seen: including Japanese and Pelagic Cormorants, Slaty-backed Gull and Pacific Swift.  Our first cetaceans were also spotted with a number of Dall’s Porpoises cruising distantly around the bay.

Weighing anchor at 11:00am we set sail for the island of Kunashir and were soon enjoying some great looks at the Porpoises.  Several pods passed close to the ship and we were able to clearly see the diagnostic white wedge on their dorsal fins.

For sheer numbers, the most common seabird was undoubtedly the Short-tailed Shearwater and there were literally thousands of these sitting around on the ocean.  As we approached some of the flocks, it was possible to see that many of the birds were really tatty – they had flown all the way up from south of Australia and New Zealand and were here to moult.

Other species seen included our first Rhinoceros Auklet, Spectacled Guillemot and Fork-tailed Storm-Petrels, although the most unexpected sighting was surely an Oriental Turtle Dove that made repeated passes of the ship and was wanted to land.  With almost everyone out on deck, however, it eventually gave up and headed over towards Sakhalin Island some distance behind us.

By late afternoon, we were very satisfied with the afternoon’s birding and headed to the bar for a pre-dinner drink which was followed by the first of many excellent dinners served by Chefs, Nicki and Brad.

Tuesday 14 June: Zapovednik-Kurilskaya Reserve, Kunashir Island

For the “early birds”, the day started at 05:45am as the Spirit of Enderby rounded the Northern end of Kunashir Island heading for our anchorage off the Zapovednik-Kurilskaya Reserve.  There were even more Short-tailed Shearwater than the previous afternoon, with a constant stream of birds passing the ship.  Many passengers also saw the first Tufted Puffins of the expedition and others caught up with Rhinoceros Auklet.
We were soon heading for the shore in four Zodiacs and fortunate passengers had some good looks at a Long-billed Murrelet and a Spectacled Guillemot.

Reaching the shoreline, we were met by three Wardens from the Reserve and divided into two groups: Chris took the keener birders and Adam took those who wanted a more general experience.  With a high density of bears in the Reserve (it is thought there are at least two hundred of them), we were told to remain with our groups – each one led by a Ranger carrying a loaded rifle.

Chris’s group headed inshore and quickly found a pair of Siberian Stonechats and then several Long-tailed Rosefinches.  These appropriately-named birds showed extremely well and after we had all enjoyed some nice looks, we headed deeper into the forest.  This was rather quiet, although the somewhat dank conditions certainly did not help.  Nevertheless, we still saw several species including the interesting eastern form of Bullfinch whose males have only pink throats with greyish bellies.

Arriving at the river, a flying White-backed Woodpecker was spotted before we headed downstream towards the sea.  On an overgrown track we saw some interesting birds including a party of ‘Northern’ Long-tailed Tits.  Most of the birds were youngsters but there were also two or three adults which had pure white heads - unlike the birds that many of us were familiar with from elsewhere.

While Chris’ group battled the vegetation, Adam took his group along the shore where they saw hundreds of Harlequin Ducks and an assortment of other waterfowl, as well as several White-tailed Eagles.  They then headed inshore to visit the Blakiston’s Fish-Owl nesting boxes, which were not occupied this year, so the group returned via a track where many Latham’s Snipes were seen.

By 1:30pm we were all back on the ship and after the damp morning, it was good to be able to get out of wet clothes before Brad and Nicki served up a very welcome hot lunch.

At 3pm Zodiac operations restarted and with the rain still falling, just over twenty passengers decided to return to the shore.  We were instantly rewarded for our decision when a Brown Bear was spotted as soon as we reached the landing site.  It was ambling through the low vegetation just behind the beach and we enjoyed some great looks as it slowly walked away from us, occasionally looking over its shoulder at our group.

Adam took a group exploring with him along the path that Chris had taken in the morning but only as far as the river.  This was very successful as they were extremely fortunate to spot a Crested Kingfisher, a species which is rarely recorded on Kunashir.

Chris took everyone else along the shoreline to the river mouth where they had nice views of several dozen Harlequin Ducks and at least eight White-tailed Eagles.  The group then headed along the beach in the other direction where they found a selection of species including Black-faced and (Eastern) Reed Bunting. 

A Japanese Bush Warbler was heard singing as they returned to the landing site.  With the weather far from ideal, it proved difficult to get prolonged views of the bird but most of those who persevered eventually got reasonable views of this very elusive but extremely vocal species.

Wednesday 15 June: Urup Island

We arrived off the village of Kurilsk shortly after 5:00am with a ‘pea-soup’ fog surrounding the ship and not a great deal to see.  After breakfast and a briefing from Expedition Leader Rodney, we split into two groups with some heading ashore to explore the village while others opted for a Zodiac cruise.

In the village, we wandered past a Russian Orthodox Church and visited the modest community museum.  Some of the birders who went ashore found several pairs of Chestnut-cheeked Starlings - a species which is at the Northern edge of its range on Kunashir.  After lunch we boarded two substantial Ural trucks for a ride up into the mountains: it took about 40 minutes to reach our destination and as the vehicles climbed up the side of the Rubeytsky volcano, we passed through a mixture of broadleaf woodland and more open areas where the dominant vegetation was Stone Pine.

Several of our group swam in the thermal pools, while Chris took the birders back along the track where they soon heard a Japanese Robin singing. Although this species looks superficially similar to the Robin in Europe (which is surely one of the friendliest of garden birds), its Asian equivalent is a real ‘skulker’ and getting good looks can be challenging.  On this occasion, however, we were very fortunate and a short while after Chris played a recording, it popped into view.  Indeed, things got even better when it hopped into the open and gave a brief burst of song, fanning its orange banded tail as it did so.  A great treat for all who were fortunate to see this gorgeous bird!

Returning to the Urals, we headed to an area of Stone Pines where a Japanese Accentor was heard singing but could not be found, although a male Siberian Rubythroat was a lot more obliging and sang from an open perch giving us some fantastic views.

A little further along, we stopped again and enjoyed some great views across the forests, down the slopes towards Kurilsk and a volcano overlooking the village. The birders made another attempt to find Japanese Accentor but while one was once again heard, it refused to come into view.  Two-nil to the Accentor! Returning to the village we had a group photo in front of the Public Hall and then it was down to the beach and back onto the ship.  It had been a great day with some absolutely fantastic weather.

Thursday 16 June: Novokuril’skaya Bay, Urup Island & Bukhta Peschanaya, Chirpoi Island

For the insomniacs, the day began with a spectacular sunrise a little after 5:00am and as the light improved we cruised towards the northern end of Urup Island and Novokuril’skoya Bay, where we could see the mountains and volcanoes of Urup on our starboard bow.  Many of the peaks were still covered in snow and at least one was clearly an active volcano, as steam could be seen coming from the crater on its summit.
Prior to breakfast, several species of Alcids (i.e. Auks) were seen, including our first Brunnich’s Guillemots of the expedition, as well as Crested Auklets and Tufted Puffins.  With no wind to assist them in getting airborne, the Tufted Puffins employed what looked like a rather inefficient technique of using their wings to shuffle across the water.  Other species included our first Laysan Albatrosses and Red-faced Cormorants, as well as exceptional numbers of Dall’s Porpoises, with upwards of forty animals seen before breakfast.
After a briefing from Rodney, the Zodiacs ferried us ashore in glorious sunshine and we had almost three hours to explore the area around an abandoned fishing community, surrounded by forested hills.  Some chose to hike to the top of one of the peaks offering spectacular views over the bay and out towards Broutuna Island, while in the valley below others admired the colourful wild flowers including at least one species of orchid.

The birders split into a number of groups to explore and over the course of the morning an excellent selection of species were seen including Middendorf’s Grasshopper Warbler, Eurasian (or Spotted) Nutcracker, Brown-headed Thrush, some stunning Siberian Rubythroats and the recently split Kamchatka Leaf-Warbler (previously Arctic Warbler).  A number of enthusiasts who had not connected with the Japanese Robin yesterday afternoon made considerable efforts to see this species as there were a number of birds singing, however, we were sadly thwarted despite the assistance of Chris and his iPod.

Returning to the ship, we continued northwards and the prediction that we might encounter some Sperm Whales proved to be spot on, with at least twenty animals seen, including several which were within a couple of hundred metres of the vessel.

The conditions remained utterly glorious with no fog and great visibility and as we approached the Chirpoy Islands, it was possible to see a steaming volcano with a large patch of yellow sulphur.  It was very easy to understand how this area had become known as the “Ring of Fire”. Passing Little Chirpoy Island, we saw a couple of hundred Steller’s Sea-Lions hauled out on the beach but these animals can be rather nervous so we did not approach too close to them.

By late afternoon, we were at our anchorage and with the pleasant conditions continuing, we boarded four Zodiacs to explore Bukhta Peschanaya.  Cruising around the bay, we saw good numbers of Pigeon Guillemots (of the local Kuril race, snowi, which is sometimes considered a separate species, the ‘Kuril Guillemot’), as well as Brunnich’s Guillemots and Red-faced Cormorants.  Rounding the point, we came across several Horned Puffins before crossing to the other side of the bay, where there were spectacular numbers of Black-legged Kittiwakes breeding on the cliffs and an enormous male Steller’s Sea-Lion hauled out on the rocks.
Landing on a sandy beach to stretch our legs and warm up, the birders among us were delighted to find a pair of Japanese Grey Buntings. The birds gave some nice looks as they fed on the slopes above the landing site.  A great end to a fantastic day.

Friday 17 June:  Simushir Island & Yankicho Island

The day began somewhat unexpectedly, with an announcement just after 06:00am telling us that there were two Short-tailed Albatross sitting on the sea close to the ship.  The birds were very obliging and despite the misty conditions, we were able to get some great looks at this species which remains an extreme rarity –it has an estimated world population of only a couple of thousand individuals.

After breakfast and a briefing, we set off for Simushir Island, entering the caldera of Broutona Bay and landing by an abandoned submarine base.  The weather remained glorious for the rest of the morning and we had three hours to explore.

Although many of the buildings were rapidly falling into a state of serious disrepair, the main office and barracks had been built out of concrete and some of us went inside to see the Soviet-style murals on the walls.  Others went for a walk as far as the cliffs and on the way saw a range of colourful flowers including at least one species of purple orchid.

For those looking for birds, there was an excellent range of species and every few metres there seemed to be either a singing male Siberian Rubythroat or an Arctic Warbler.  Other species seen included Japanese Grey Bunting, Pine Grosbeak, Nutcracker and Brown-headed Thrush.

By midday we were all back onboard the Spirit of Enderby where the Captain set a course for Yankicho Island.  With forty nautical miles to run it took several hours to reach our destination but as we approached, the number of alcids increased with good numbers of Tufted Puffins, Crested Auklets and Whiskered Auklets.
In the late afternoon, we boarded the Zodiacs for our planned visit to Yankicho Island; however, we soon encountered some thick fog and then a sudden and very unexpected patch of extreme tidal turbulence.

As a result, we returned to the ship where everyone disembarked but twenty minutes later, those who wished re-boarded the Zodiacs and this time reached the entrance to the caldera on Yankicho Island without incident.  Cruising inside, we experienced the truly phenomenal spectacle of tens of thousands of Crested and Whiskered Auklets streaming overhead. 

While the vast majority of birds seemed to be heading directly for their nests, we also encountered multiple flocks of hundreds of birds sitting on the sea.  By slowing the Zodiacs right down, we were able to approach some of these flocks and obtained some amazing views.  The Expedition Team had suggested earlier that day that the Auks at Yankicho could be one of life’s most memorable birding experiences and there were few among us that would disagree with that assessment.

We made a brief landing near an area of thermal activity where there was a number of boiling water pools and sulphur vents before returning to the ship for a late dinner.  It had been an eventful, but ultimately, spectacular day.

Saturday 18 June:  Toporkovy Island & Shiashkotan Island

With a thick fog surrounding the ship, it was 8:15am before the morning ‘wake-up call’. After a brief reconnaissance trip by the Expedition Team, we boarded the Zodiacs and set off for Toporkovy Island.  Closer to shore, conditions were better than around the ship and we had a fantastic couple of hours. 

Several huge male Steller’s Sea-Lions came over to investigate us and two of these then proceeded to have what seemed to be a territorial tussle, with the animals lunging out of the water and creating large splashes close to the Zodiacs. 

For many of the birders, the undoubted highlight was an exceedingly obliging Whiskered Auklet which showed at close range for several minutes.  As well as the Auklet, we also saw several dozen Pigeon Guillemots of the Kuril race (snowi) with very little white in the wing. Other species seen included Tufted Puffins, Crested Auklets and Slaty-backed Gulls. 

As the Spirit of Enderby headed north, the weather conditions improved considerably and shortly after lunch the island of Raykoke came into view.  With thousands of Fulmar about, Chris announced that there would be a chumming session from the stern (using the guts and heads from some fishing that the crew had done).  It is nigh-on impossible to accurately estimate the number of Fulmars we saw but it is safe to say that it was incredible. There must have been between 50,000 to 100,000 individuals.  The highlight for the keen birders, however, was a lone Black-footed Albatross, a species which is only infrequently recorded in this part of the Russian Far East and an excellent addition to the trip list.

Later, as we approached Ekarma Island, the sea was fairly lumpy so Rodney took the decision to take the ship over to Shiashkotan Island to make an early evening landing.  There was a team of volcanologists working on the island and they took some of our group to see some old Japanese gun emplacements and a pillbox.  One of the scientists was also an enthusiastic amateur historian and he told the group some of the island’s history, including how dozens of Japanese citizens had starved to death when they tried to settle here a hundred years ago.

As the climb to the guns was fairly steep, the rest of our group stayed on the shoreline and strolled along the beach: birds seen included Middendorf’s Grasshopper Warbler and a couple of Peregrine Falcons.

Sunday 19 June: Onekotan Island & cruising off Paramushir

After a 6:15am ‘wake up call’ we headed ashore to land at Nemo Bay on Onekotan Island.  Conditions were murky with a steady drizzle but despite this most of the group decided to go on the walk to Black Lake.  
The trail climbed steeply up the side of a raised beach and then crossed a relatively flat area of tundra-like vegetation with Stone Pine, Polar Willow and Dwarf Birch being the main trees.  Most of these were growing to little over a metre above the ground (despite some of them clearly being very old), giving us an idea of how extreme the weather could be on this exposed island.

There was also a range of colourful flowers including some beautiful Goldish Rhododendrons.  The timing of our visit was perfect for these flowers:  there were yellow patches right across the tundra.

When the group eventually arrived at the lake, it was shrouded with mist but everyone felt it was still worth the walk.  Despite it being only a few days before Midsummer’s Day, there were still snow patches - giving rise to some light-hearted fun when a few snowballs were thrown!

Whilst the walkers were doing the round trip to the lake, some of the birders explored the stands of Stone Pine and Dwarf Birch, with the highlight being a fine pair of Pine Grosbeaks.  Other species seen included Buff-bellied Pipit, Middendorf’s Grasshopper Warbler, Siberian Rubythroat and Brown-headed Thrush.

Back on the ship we headed onwards towards Paramushir Island but the weather remained far from ideal with a steady drizzle for much of the afternoon.  Many of the Short-tailed Shearwaters were in far better plumage than those we had seen around Sakhalin and the Southern Kuril Islands: they had clearly finished moulting and were presumably now continuing their northward migration.

At 7:00pm, the Expedition Team organised a recap in the bar where Adam discussed some of the birds we had seen, Katya talked about Sea Otters and Rodney gave some history of the region.  After this, many people headed for the Bridge because we had entered Second Straight at the north end of Paramushir which is a well known area for Sea Otters.  Despite the visibility being only a few hundred metres, several dozen animals were seen over the course of the evening.

Monday 20 June: Bukhta Russkaya, Kamchatka

After all the recent early starts, many on board welcomed today’s wake up call at 8:15am.  By the time Rodney’s post-breakfast briefing had finished, we were entering Russkaya Fiord and many of us headed outside to enjoy the view and look for wildlife.  There were Harlequin Ducks, Pigeon Guillemots and Tufted Puffins, but the species many of the birders wanted to see was Long-billed Murrelet and several were seen floating on the sea a couple of hundred metres or so from the ship.  As we waited for permission from the Border Guards to go ashore, a distant Steller’s Sea-eagle was also spotted. 

We boarded the Zodiacs for the ride to the head of the fiord and passed a group of fifty or so Harlequins; we had also hoped to ‘sneak up’ on an immature Steller’s Sea-eagle which was sitting on the beach but he had other ideas. When we were still three hundred or so metres away, he flew off to join the adult we had seen earlier.
Once ashore, two walks were offered: some joined Rodney, Katya and Chris to explore the forested valley while Adam led a walk along the foreshore.  A range of birds were seen including Eye-browed Thrush, Arctic Warbler and good numbers of Eastern Yellow Wagtails.

As soon as lunch was finished, the ship left the fiord and repositioned a few miles to the south at a spot where the Expedition Team knew there were likely to be some Steller’s Sea-Lions.  These huge mammals were indeed present but before we had even reached the shore, Adam alerted all the Zodiacs that there were Orcas patrolling in front of the rocks.  We carefully approached and enjoyed some spectacular views of what is considered to be the largest member of the dolphin family.  There was at least one male present and he had an impressive dorsal fin, well over one metre tall. 

After some great looks at the Orcas and Sea-Lions, we explored the coastline to the north and found about fifteen Sea Otters feeding around some rocks.  Although a little wary, some of them were quite curious and studied us from what they considered was a safe distance, before diving when the Zodiacs continued along the coast.

A Steller’s Sea-Eagle nest was also spotted high up on the rocks and two adult birds could be seen looking down on us from the top of the cliff-face.  Having seen four different individuals in Bukhta Russkaya, this took our tally to an impressive six for the day – a very satisfactory total for such a spectacular bird. It had been a highly memorable Zodiac cruise and while the cloud had been fairly low, the rain had held off and we had had a fantastic time.

By late afternoon we were back on the ship and heading towards our next destination with the ornithological highlights being a somewhat out of range Red-legged Kittiwake and a full summer plumage Grey Phalarope which had brick red underparts.  While ‘grey’ might accurately describe the plumage of this species in winter, the American name ‘Red Phalarope’ certainly seemed more appropriate at this time of year.
With another early start scheduled for the following morning, there was very little socialising after dinner and most people headed off to bed with the prospect of the Zhupanova river trip to look forward to.

Tuesday 21 June: Zhupanova River & at sea

A little before 5:00am the Spirit of Enderby arrived at anchorage off the Zhupanova river mouth and we set off in five Zodiacs for the fishing community there. Initially the river was several hundred metres wide but it quickly began to narrow and we soon found a feeding flock of Common Terns.  These are a different subspecies from those in Europe (longipennis) and we could easily see their all-black bills and darker plumage.

One of the main objectives of today was to get some really good looks at the Steller’s Sea-eagle and during the course of the morning at least three nests were spotted with adult birds in attendance. Other birds seen included Red-throated Diver, Goosander, Goldeneye, Wood Sandpiper and Taiga Flycatcher, however, it was the eagles we had really come to see and after cruising eight miles up the river, the Zodiacs turned round and headed back towards the fishing community.

Here, some of the group was entertained by the very hospitable locals where we ate salmon and warmed up with a cup of tea.  Some good sized fish had also just been landed - one weighing over 15kgs.  Those among us who wished to go birding explored an area of wet grassland and scrub behind the buildings where the main target was Long-toed Stint.  It didn’t take too long to find this diminutive wader but getting good views of it on the ground was challenging as the birds kept creeping away from us through the grass. 

With Pechora Pipit and Yellow-breasted Bunting also seen, it was a highly successful walk but by the time we had got back to the Zodiacs, it was apparent that the swells had increased substantially since we had set off and the journey back to the ship was at a comparatively sedate pace as the Zodiac drivers skilfully negotiated the seas.  Getting off the boat, however, was another matter. It took a while before everyone was safely back onboard.

As we cruised away from the Kamchatka coastline, the low level cloud we had experienced for the last few days finally began to lift and we could see a number of snow-covered volcanoes dominating the area.  After several days of restricted visibility, it was great to finally see some views.

Although there were fewer birds than we had seen in the Central Kurils, there were still plenty to look at with good numbers of Tufted Puffins, Laysan Albatrosses and Northern Fulmars. The keen birders were very pleased to see at least fifteen Mottled Petrels.

By 7:00pm the weather had deteriorated significantly and the ship was moving quite significantly in a storm as we headed eastwards for the Commander Islands.  Despite there being another excellent dinner in the restaurant, there were plenty of absentees due to the uncharacteristic conditions.   

Wednesday 22 June: Nikol’skoye, Bering Island & Commander Islands

The storm continued to blow throughout the night and when the breakfast announcement came, we were told that the ship was about three hours behind schedule.  To fill in time, Katya gave us a lecture entitled “An introduction to the Commander Islands”. Conditions improved steadily through the morning and a range of seabirds was seen before we reached our anchorage off the small town of Nikol’skoye.

Walking along the shoreline, we passed several Glaucous-winged Gulls but the keen birders quickly found the main target for the morning – Rock Sandpiper.  There were about ten individuals feeding along the shoreline, looking extremely smart in their fine summer plumage.

Further along the track, we saw several hundred Dunlins and then another of the morning’s target birds: several Mongolian (or Lesser Sand) Plovers.  A couple of Pechora Pipits were also seen but with the wind blowing strongly it proved impossible to get looks at the birds on the ground and we had to be content with flight views.

While the birders explored the foreshore and marsh, others visited the small museum in the middle of Nikol’skoye where there were a range of exhibits to see.  These included the skeleton of a Steller’s Sea-cow: an animal hunted to extinction within thirty years of its discovery by the second of Vitus Bering’s expeditions which visited the Commander Islands in 1741.

Shortly after 5:00pm we were all back onboard the Spirit of Enderby and Rodney announced that we would be heading to Ari Kamen Island to try an early evening Zodiac cruise.  Arriving off the island, conditions were much improved so four Zodiacs were soon in the water and readied for action.

Approaching the island there were plenty of auks floating in the water including several groups of Parakeet Auklets.  Some of these gave exceptional views and we were able to come within a few metres of them.  While they were in the water, it was difficult to see their white bellies but as soon as they took off, these were very apparent.

Around the island itself, the swells were much reduced and we had some nice looks at a couple of dozen Red-legged Kittiwakes perched on rocks conveniently close to the shore; around the corner there were literally thousands of Black-legged Kittiwakes on their nests. 

Both Red-faced and Pelagic Cormorants were also present in good numbers and there was a constant stream of Tufted Puffins going to and fro between the higher slopes (where they had their burrows) and the sea.  It was to be another late dinner but the day had, yet again, ended in a spectacular fashion.

Thursday 23 June: Medney Island & at sea

We boarded the Zodiacs for the short ride to Gladkhovskaya Bay on Medney Island, the more easterly of the two islands in the Commander Islands archipelago.  Although there was some low level cloud, visibility was much improved and we were free to explore the area.

Almost immediately a Grey-crowned Rosy-Finch was spotted on one of the old buildings near the landing site but this soon flew off. There were good numbers of Pechora Pipits and those who wanted to see this species got much better views than yesterday as with no wind, the birds were perching up rather than disappearing in the grass.  Several of the birds were also singing and we were able to watch their display flights.

The more energetic among us walked up a nearby slope and promptly found a Rock Ptarmigan.  Most people were able to get some nice looks at this cryptically coloured grouse as it fed close by us, clearly unconcerned by our presence and utterly confident in its camouflage.

Some of us walked out to the lake where there were good numbers of Northern Eiders.  Although superficially similar to the birds of Northern Europe, the males here (subspecies v-nigra) have bright orange bills and feet and we were able to appreciate this very obvious difference. A good variety of other waterfowl were also present, including Tufted Duck, Red-breasted Merganser, Common Teal and Northern Shoveler.

Back on the beach, Lapland and Snow Buntings were seen and out in the bay there were both Tufted and Horned Puffins.  A couple of Arctic Foxes, which presumably had their den underneath one of the buildings, were a little more elusive but nevertheless many of us got views of these.

Cruising around Matvey Point at the western end of Medney Island we found plenty of Sea Otters with upwards of twenty in one small area alone. Those of us who had not yet seen Horned Puffin were also more than satisfied as we had some fantastic views of several dozen birds including some perched on rocks close to the shore. The scenery was very impressive: hillsides rising steeply and many of the higher peaks disappearing in the clouds.  Higher up, there were hundreds of Tufted Puffins commuting backwards and forwards, as well as thousands of Northern Fulmars soaring around the cliffs. 

All too soon it was time to return to the ship, but we all agreed that the Zodiac cruise had been a fitting climax to our time in the Commander Islands and a highlight of the entire expedition. 

After a late lunch (we had spent too long enjoying ourselves around Matvey Point!) many of us went back outside to look for birds and cetaceans.  Rounding the western end of Medney Island, we saw thousands of alcids including all three Guillemots (Common, Brunnich’s and Pigeon), Crested and Whiskered Auklets and both species of Puffins.  At least four tiny alcids were also seen and although views were far from ideal, those who saw these were confident that they were Least Auklets – a species which is always tricky to see this far south. 

Passing the south-east tip of Bering Island, we began to encounter a few whales as the underwater shelf drops off very steeply just offshore.  Rodney asked the Captain to turn the ship and we approached a group of Sperm Whales; another turn took us closer to a group of Humpbacked Whales.  At least one of these was seen breaching and with the islands disappearing behind us this was a great end to our visit to the Commander Islands.

Friday 24 June:  at sea heading to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy

After the hectic programme of the last few days, many chose to have a lie in and few made it onto the bridge or out onto the decks before breakfast. Those who did were rewarded with sightings of a Sperm Whale, as well as ten Mottled Petrels and similar numbers of Fork-tailed Storm-petrels. 

On the stern of the ship, several Red-legged Kittiwakes had taken up residence.  They allowed photographers to get some great shots and remained with us for much of the day.

At 10:00am Adam Walleyn gave a presentation entitled “The Legacy of Steller” in which he discussed the life and times of the 18th century naturalist - the first to document the biology of Kamchatka and the Commander Islands.  Steller also left his mark on the region with his name now being commemorated in many names of the flora and fauna. 

Katya gave an illustrated talk on Sea Otters describing their behaviour and demonstrated how ungainly they are on land; we learned also that males often bite the noses of the females during mating!  Katya also talked about the recent collapse of the Aleutian otter population – it has been suggested that this has been caused by Orca predation.

With thick fog surrounding the ship during the latter stages of the day, no new cetaceans were seen and after a gala dinner many of us headed off to bed. Disembarkation was scheduled at Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy; we had travelled over 1,500 nautical miles and seen many sights and heard many sounds that would live with us for a long, long time.