Trip Report
Voyage # 1062
Galapagos of the Southern Ocean
28th November - 9th December 2010
Day 1: November 28 - Dunedin and the west coast of the South Island.
Following breakfast in our hotel in Dunedin, 49 adventurers boarded the bus for the short ride down to the wharf and the Spirit of Enderby, our home for the next two weeks. Once we settled in on board and cleared customs formalities we made ready for departure. As the lines were cast, a group of Scottish bagpipers piped us off to sea. Weather was beautiful as we sailed down the Port of Otago. Clearing Tairoa Head, we admired the numerous Northern Royal Albatross nesting on the hillside. Thousands of Hutton’s Shearwater flew past at the heads, a surprising sight this far south. Lunch was delayed as we caught sight of a pink patch of ocean; Captain Dmitry sailed the ship right through this spectacular krill swarm, perhaps a kilometre long and 30 meters deep. It was a stunning sight to see these billions of krill in such a tight ball and thousands of seabirds were present to take part in the feast – Sooty Shearwaters, Cape and White-chinned Petrels, White-capped and Salvin’s Albatross and more.
We set a southwards course down the west coast of the South Island and had an introduction to the ship and staff followed by a safety briefing. Sailing conditions were ideal with bright sunshine and just a light swell. Numerous seabirds accompanied the ship and at one point a small group of Dusky Dolphins played in the wake – three adults and two babies. In the late afternoon Adam gave an introduction to the Snares Islands and then we gathered for dinner before bed, as Stewart Island came into view just as the day ended.
Day 2: November 29 - The Snares Islands
Around 2am we cleared the bottom of Stewart Island and entered the southern ocean. The westerly swells hit us on the beam and we rolled through the night causing a loss of sleep for many people. Shortly after breakfast we arrived at the Snares. With winds of 30 knots gusting to 50 it was clear that it was not safe to launch Zodiacs and much to our disappointment we would have to stay onboard and take in the gale from the comfort of the ship. Seabirds abounded – Sooty Shearwaters, Cape and Mottled Petrels and Common Diving Petrels. After spending a couple of hours in what lee the island would give us, it was time to head back into the ocean. Adam gave an introduction to the seabirds so that we might better identify those following the ship.
Not long after lunch, a pod of Long-finned Pilot Whales was spotted with thousands of seabirds following them. Everyone rushed out on deck and most people got excellent looks as the tight pod of whales cruised past the bow. Numbers of seabirds following the ship increased as we sailed south so that we had a following of hundreds off the stern throughout the afternoon – Cape and White-chinned Petrels, Black-bellied Storm-petrel, Southern Royal, Gibson’s, Salvin’s, and White-capped Albatross dominating. A couple of other whales were seen briefly but not identified. The wind eased throughout the afternoon so it was very pleasant out on deck, a rare thing in this part of the southern ocean. Indoors Adam gave an introduction to the Auckland Islands followed by bar time and dinner. Conditions were excellent as we turned in for the night in eager expectation of the following day on Enderby.
Day 3: November 30 - Enderby Island
We awoke at anchor in Port Ross off one of the southern ocean’s most amazing islands: Enderby. After breakfast, a briefing from Nathan, and making lunches we boarded the Zodiacs for our first ride, quickly assembling near the research station after running the gauntlet of the many male Hooker’s Sea Lions who were quietly awaiting the return of the females and the mating season. Auckland Island Tomtits and Pipits greeted us and were a sign of things to come on the bird front – the variety and tameness of birds is one of the highlights of this island. Entering into a small patch of rata forest, we carried on up the boardwalk past nesting Southern Royal Albatross and through spectacular fields of megaherbs (Bulbinella rossi and Anisotome latifolia) on to the western cliffs where we could admire the nesting Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and feel the fresh wind on our faces.
A few people returned back to the beach to spend some quality time with the sea lions and Yellow-eyed Penguins, while the majority of us carried on around the island enjoying this amazing walk. Auckland Island Shag colonies were in full swing with adults caring for chicks and rebuilding nests. Derrycastle Reef harboured some surprises – a moulting Elephant Seal and a flock of five Ruddy Turnstones – arctic migrants who winter every year on the reef. Birders ticked off Red-crowned Parakeets, Auckland Island Flightless Teal, and the elusive Subantarctic Snipe. Botanists thrilled in the megaherb fields including the vast numbers of Stilbocarpa polaris and colourful gentians. The weather held throughout the day; terrain varied from easy on the grassy sward to challenging through the tussock grasses. Everyone had fun dodging the feisty subadult sea lions who simply wanted to play. A freshly born pup at one colony was surprisingly early. The scenery was everchanging and dramatic; some people took time out from the coast to explore inside the haunting rata forest. Winding up back at the landing beach, skuas and giant petrels were feasting themselves on the last remains of a calf Right Whale that had beached on shore. Yellow-eyed Penguins, particularly numerous on this day, were nervously waddling to and from the water. At last it was time to return to the ship having had a sublime day ashore. The bar was lively and full of chatter as we swapped stories of the day - we all went to bed quite exhausted after the fresh air and long walk.
Day 4: December 1 - Hardwicke and Carnley Harbour
We stayed at anchor overnight and made a very early landing in Erebus Cove at the site of the Hardwicke settlement – the only ever attempt of a British colony in the Subantarctic Islands. Once ashore we headed up a short boardwalk to the graveyard whose headstones commemorated the burial of unfortunate colonists and shipwrecked sailors. We then took a short walk through the rata forest to the Victoria tree or Victoria stump as it is more appropriately called today. How different the forest is on the mainland with no megaherbs or understorey and no native bird song; thanks all to the ravages of the introduced animals: cats, pigs, and mice. Boarding the Zodiacs we returned to the ship via Terror Cove and the site of the 1874 German Transit of Venus expedition.
Over breakfast we cleared Port Ross and headed down the east coast of the Auckland Islands. Late morning we entered into Carnley Harbour and had a scenic cruise of this haven of calm in the southern ocean. To our starboard was the main Auckland Island and to our port the pest-free Adams Island. The harbour was filled with seabirds; mainly Sooty Shearwaters, but also some Gibson’s Albatross, Auckland Island Shags, Yellow-eyed Penguins, and Hooker’s Sea Lions. As we approached Victoria’s passage we could see the cliffs of Southwest Cape and the white-capped albatross colony, visible as small dots up on the cliffs. With white water breaking on the only possible landing site, it was time to retrace our steps and head back out Carnley harbour and set a southwards course for Macquarie Island.
Although there was some wind and swell, our course took us straight into the waves and most passengers found the movement much more agreeable than two days previous. Some seabirds followed the ship and indoors we had a recap of our experiences in the Auckland Islands. Almost everyone made it to dinner, a good sign that we were getting our sea legs!
Day 5: December 2 - At sea to Macquarie
We continued to pitch into the southwest swell through the night and the day. It was a day of relaxing and lectures. Adam gave a talk in the morning about the albatross of the southern ocean. Aleks gave us an introduction to Macquarie Islands and Dean gave us an introduction to the cetaceans of the region. Few seabirds were noted in this vast, deep ocean that we were crossing, with only the occasional Black-browed Albatross and Mottled or Cape Petrel to break the horizon. Almost everyone had their sea legs by now and meals and lectures were well-attended as we built up our excitement for Macquarie Island: a wonder spot of the world.
Day 6: December 3 - Sandy Bay, Macquarie Island
Early in the morning the wind increased and the ship rolled violently, putting an end to the night’s sleep for most people. We arrived in the lee of Macquarie Island late morning, later than expected but still with plenty of time for a great day - if conditions would permit.
The first order of business was to drop off Aleks and Justine and pick up the four Macquarie Island rangers who would act as our local guides during our two day visit to this incredible island. As we sailed south along the coast, a briefing of the day’s plans was held in the lecture hall. Then, after a quick lunch, we found ourselves at anchor off Sandy Bay and jumping in the Zodiacs for a cold, windy ride to the beach. A welcoming party of King Penguins and Elephant Seals was there to greet us. After a straightforward surf landing we had the rest of the day to spend at this incomparable spot. Many of us spent hours on the beach just sitting with the fearless penguins and seals that crowded the shoreline. Elephant Seal pups were out in droves with smelly, moulting, and belching adults gathered in tight groups...they were gigantic and it was hard to believe these were not even the full grown males! The King Penguins were curious as ever, coming to peck at the boots of anyone who stopped to watch. Further down the beach was a nesting colony with many birds incubating their eggs on their feet and several of the downy brown chicks showing off the vast differences between juvenile and adult plumage of this species. At the other end of the beach there was the opportunity to walk a little bit higher above the beach and inspect the damage the rabbits have done to the vegetation: Poa clumps chewed right to the nub and Pleurophyllum hookeri plants also severely grazed. Many rabbits were seen running around – let’s hope this year’s eradication attempts are successful! After the depressing state of the vegetation, there was a much happier sight waiting for us at the top of the boardwalk – a Royal Penguin colony in full swing. Most of the birds were sitting on freshly-hatched, one or two day old chicks...some of us even got to witness the birds emerging from their shells - good timing! Overhead lurked the predatory Brown Skua and they were successful in sneaking off with the little chicks from time to time, providing a much-needed feed for their own chicks.
With about seven hours ashore there was ample time to take in the sights, sounds and smells of this remarkable place. We had some bouts of bright sunshine, but in the end the cold wind drove most of us back to the ship, though still in high spirits. We had experienced one of the most amazing spots of the southern ocean. Chatter was lively in the bar and we had the four rangers stay on board with us as we enjoyed a meal at anchor with stationary plates for a change!
Day 7: December 4 - Macquarie Island
Nathan awoke us at 6am with his not-so-dulcet tones to announce that we were cruising by a King Penguin colony. Most of us got out on deck to witness the fine spectacle of 300,000 pairs, covering every patch of open beach. This colony just grows and grows every year and it is a great success story; particularly poignant as it is situated next to the ‘boilers’ where Joseph Hatch’s men mercilessly destroyed most of the population. Sometimes nature reclaims it back.
Over breakfast we sailed up the coast of Macquarie Island and then after a briefing were heading to shore once again. We divided into groups and were escorted along the isthmus to learn about the history of the area and, of course, to experience some more of the wildlife. Gentoo Penguin is a common breeder here and it was great to see large numbers of them, in particular the six-week old chicks which had formed a large crèche in the middle of the road and were in no hurry to move out of the way! We also passed a small colony of Macquarie Shags and, offshore, were Antarctic Terns, Brown Skuas, and Light-mantled Sooty Albatross. And of course there were Elephant Seals everywhere, belching and looking up at us with those big black eyes. Conditions were rather chilly, foggy and rainy, so it was with relief that we toured the research base where hot coffee and superb scones awaited us. We also had a chance to mingle with the station personnel and get an idea about life on base before braving the cold again and returning to the landing.
En route to the ship our Zodiac drivers took us past a small Eastern Rockhopper Penguin colony so we could enjoy fairly close views of our fourth Macquarie penguin. Then it was back to the ship to set sail northeast to Campbell Island. Winds were strong but from the southwest, a favourable situation and we found ourselves making good time and a comfortable motion as sailed on. Birding was good on deck with good numbers of Black-browed Albatross and Antarctic Prions following the ship, along with a few Blue and Soft-plumaged Petrels for the keen-eyed.
Indoors, Dean showed his two short Macquarie documentaries which were much enjoyed by all. We had a lively recap of our time on this island in the bar and then following Brad and Stephen’s fine dinner and tiramisu, turned in for a good night’s sleep in a following sea.
Day 8: December 5 - At sea to Campbell Island
We made good time overnight, the wind continued to blow southwest and it was a comfortable motion throughout the day with the following sea. Seabirding was quite good, particularly as we crossed the Campbell Rise, and at least six species were recorded along with White-headed and Mottled Petrel, Black-bellied Storm-petrel and others. It was another day of lectures, starting off with Dean’s informative talk on the pinnipeds of the southern ocean. This was followed by Matt talking about the southern ocean and how climate change has affected it in the past and present – interesting stuff. Adam carried on with the lecture program in the afternoon with a talk on penguins and Nathan rounded it off with a late afternoon introduction to Campbell Island. A lot to take in for the day as we also took time to download photos and write up diaries.
Day 9: December 6 - Col Lyall Saddle and the Northwest Bay Walk, Campbell Island
We awoke in the calm waters of Perseverance Harbour, finally out of reach of the southern ocean swell. We all enjoyed a calm breakfast as the ship sailed into anchorage. Heavy wind gusts were coming through the harbour and fronts passed alternating between blue sky and low cloud. Bouts of rain and hail would pass through occasionally over the course of the day, but all in all it would be a fine day on Campbell Island. After a briefing, we split into two groups, the long walkers and the short walkers.
The long walkers departed first and headed off with Nathan leading the famed Northwest Bay walk. After landing at the old met station of Beaman Base, this walk headed up through the Dracophyllum scrub and into the tussock lands and feldmark. The exposed ridges were quite windy but offered a chance to appreciate the size and beauty of the majestic Southern Royal Albatross. Megaherbs and flowering plants were quite in evidence throughout the walk as well. Great exercise, stunning scenery throughout and an invigorating day-long hike.
The majority of our ship were short walkers today and headed up the Col-Lyall boardwalk. There, everyone had as long as they wanted to photograph the megaherbs and other wildflowers; in particular, Bulbinella rossii, Anisotome latifolia, Pleurophyllum hookeri, Pleurophyllum criniferum, Hebe benthami and Gentianella cerina. But the real highlight up on Col-Lyall is the colony of Southern Royal Albatross and everyone had ample time to sit with birds that were incubating their eggs. As the day wore on, some younger birds came in from sea and landed on the island in small groups to gam, participating in their elaborate and beautiful dances. Eventually the cold and wind forced us down to the landing, but on the way Adam made a remarkable sighting of the recently-discovered Campbell Island Snipe with a small chick.
Everyone was back onboard for a lively bar time, a great dinner and a quiet night’s sleep at anchor in Perseverance Harbour.
Day 10: December 7 - Perseverance Harbour and Mount Honey, Campbell Island
We awoke to a big surprise – snow dusting the tops of Campbell Island, a very rare sight in December and the odd blizzard was still blowing through the harbour as we ate breakfast. Those interested in a stretch of the legs headed out straight into the driving snow to be landed at Garden Cove. In all, 30 people were keen to have a go at climbing Mount Honey - a good showing. After a short walk on the formed track it was time to head inland and up towards the peak of the island’s highest mountain. The ground was covered in snow and the brilliant megaherbs carpeted in white were a beautiful spectacle. Albatross sat patiently on their nests as the snow swirled around. Blizzards came and went, becoming more ferocious as we went higher and became more exposed. At a basalt plug not far from the top we were hit with the full force of a blizzard, an interesting experience, and a good indicator that it was time to return to the landing site. After the mandatory snowball fight, we fought our way back down to the track and the beach; it had been a really invigorating walk.
A few of those who stayed behind participated in a Zodiac cruise to land at some long-deserted homesteads and coves. A few Campbell Island Shags and Hooker’s Sea Lion accompanied the cruise and blizzards swept through, pelting our faces with vertical snow. Some people were more sensible and stayed on board the Spirit of Enderby!
After lunch it was time to head out to the open ocean. Sailing along the east coast of Campbell Island gave good views of the coastline - at least, when it wasn’t engulfed in a snow blizzard. Near the north tip of the island the Bull Rock mollymawk colony came into view and although we were fairly distant we could appreciate the size of it – here is the world’s only nesting colony of Campbell Island Albatross.
The time had come to hit the open ocean and as we passed the northern coast of Campbell we came back under the influence of the westerly swells. We had 360 miles of north to run and the ship rolled its way throughout the afternoon with a myriad of seabirds following us and passing the occasional snow squall. After dinner we passed two New Zealand navy ships that were heading to Campbell.
Day 11: December 8 - At sea to Bluff
The swells died down somewhat overnight so that we had a reasonably pleasant final day at sea. The trip wound its way down as we sailed closer to Bluff and had great numbers of seabirds around the ship. The five Enderby Trust recipients each spoke on what the trip had meant for them and of their plans for the future. Nathan and Natalia gave a presentation on the Russian Far East, another remote and exciting destination. After lunch it was time for the expedition recap with a slideshow prepared by the staff capturing the images of the trip and bringing back a flood of memories. We settled final accounts and gathered for one last drink in the bar and a farewell dinner. Stewart Island beckoned to the north as the sun set and we retired for the final time to our cabins.
Day 12: December 9 - Bluff, end of trip
After 1,611 nautical miles we awoke, already tied-up to the wharf at Bluff, New Zealand. Following breakfast and immigration formalities, we boarded our bus and set off on the journey home. The trip had been a great success and all aboard will carry their own memories as they go their separate ways. You are of the lucky few to see these islands and it is our hope that you become advocates for their future protection. Thanks for travelling with us and we hope to see you again on a Heritage Expedition in the future!
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