Chatham Islands - A Land Apart
28th March - 5th April 2011
Expedition Log - Voyage #1172
28th March 2011: Departing Port of Lyttelton
Rising early, a meeting of staff and lecturers was held over breakfast in preparation for the arrival of expedition members. Final stores and equipment were loaded with pallets of food and operational essentials before the expeditioners themselves boarded with the usual hardware of cameras, binoculars and telescopes - tools of the trade for ornithologists.
With the Pilot onboard, the Spirit of Enderby moved quietly from Lyttelton towards Pegasus Bay. We observed a range of marine species and the magnificent topography of cliffs associated with the two volcanic calderas of Lyttelton and Akaroa. We headed past Banks Peninsula and on towards the Chatham Rise and, after lunch, participated in a fire drill and Evacuation Procedure briefings. A plethora of albatross and petrels followed in our wake and were eagerly photographed.
29th March 2011: At sea, Chatham Rise
After an early wakeup call and breakfast, instructions and plans for the day were delivered by Rodney, our expedition leader. He explained sea conditions and weather considerations and how they might affect our programme.
We crossed the 180 degree meridian dogleg that embraces the Chatham Islands within New Zealand’s territory and changed our watches: Chatham Island time is 45 minutes ahead of New Zealand time.
Reaching the Chatham Rise, we observed the warm subtropical waters mixing with the nutrient rich cold subantarctic waters. Petrels and a great range of subantarctic and subtropical species were observed.
30th March 2011: Chatham Islands
We awoke to find the ship anchored off Kaingaroa and made our way ashore after breakfast. The shore was rather sloppy and many got wet feet – a good introduction to island landings. We were soon sorted on to our transport and moved off, some pausing briefly to see the memorial to the Moriori people. This commemorates a number of indigenous people who were shot by a seaman from Captain Broughton’s HMS Chatham. It also commemorates the number of fishermen who have been drowned in these waters over the years.
Our first major destination was Hapupu reserve where we had a short walk to see the dendroglyphs carved on the kopi (karaka) trees. These carvings were created by the early Moriori but their full significance has been lost in antiquity. Many of the older trees are beginning to die and a number of the carvings have already been lost, though the native bush is recovering here.
Back on the beach we continued along the northern coast; this gave us vistas of the many lakes and the big lagoon which covers a large portion of the island. The next stop was at Blind Jim’s to walk along the beach and fossick for shark teeth - although a few small ones were found we did not have great success.
It was then onwards to Maunganui with a short walk to see the old stone cottage built by Morovian missionaries. This is being slowly restored by the current landowners. We walked back to our coaches and enjoyed a picnic lunch in the sun.
Continuing to Waitangi West, we stopped briefly on the shore to see a local oystercatcher and later called at Port Hutt to see the fishing village. It’s a picturesque bay but in need of a good clean up: the hull of a WWII minesweeper lies in the middle of the beach.
It was then onto the airport to see the memorial plaque to “Old Blue” - the famous Black Robin whose longevity and productivity saved the species (though with no little help from a dedicated band of Wildlife Service Officers).
We passed through Te One where the island’s main store is situated and on to visit the Moriori Marae where we were welcomed by senior members of the Trust which had worked to have it built. It was a very moving gathering and we were given an impassioned history and a summary of the ambitions of the now-recognised Moriori people. We enjoyed a very fine afternoon tea before moving on to Waitangi where we re-boarded the ship for dinner and the night.
31st March 2011: Chathams, Awatotara Valley
Following breakfast, we assembled for a dry landing from the Zodiacs at fisherman’s wharf, Waitangi. There, an assemblage of vans, safari vehicles and small buses waited to drive us down the south coast to the Awatotara Valley. This is part of Liz and Bruce Tuanui’s property. The Awatotara and Tuku Covenants are Bruce and Liz’s personal contribution to the conservation of the Chatham Island Tui and the Parea. After 20 years of stock fencing the vegetation has matured and this - along with extensive planting - now provides a variety of plants that are most attractive to small bush birds like the Chatham Warbler, the Chatham Fantail and the recently re-introduced Chatham Tomtit.
After a delicious barbecue and lots of talking while sitting on the patio at the homestead of Bruce’s parents, Manuel and Evelyn Tuanui, we travelled further south. A notice naming the Nature Reserve was pointed out: this sign refers to the 1028 hectares of bush generously gifted by Manuel and Evelyn, keen supporters of the Chatham Island Taiko Project. We marvelled at the number of Chatham Island Tui that were seen and heard. This species has been successfully re-introduced to the main Chatham Island by the Taiko Trust and is continuing to spread.
Next we were transported across the Tuku-a-Tamatea River (whose waters are stained with peat) to Taiko Camp, the operation centre for Taiko Expeditions. David outlined the function of camp structures and the developments needed to ensure the long-term monitoring of the Chatham Island Taiko, one of the world’s most endangered species of seabird. Two rotating telemetric tracking aerials act as an aid to locating the nocturnal Taiko to their breeding burrows in the deep, soft and peaty soil well inland in the bush. The Taiko are caught at the Light Attraction Site, a ridge above the Tuku River. Here, a band, transmitter and data logger are attached the Taiko before it is released and monitored to the location of the breeding burrows. It was explained that the transmitter is attached to the two central tail feathers.
Mike Bell guided the ornithologists among our group to the site where over 200 Taiko have been caught, weighed, measured, banded, processed and photographed before being released. We were able to view the four new sleeping huts that have replaced the modified garden sheds that had been used since construction in January 1980. For ten years prior to that, tents were used to provide shelter for Taiko Expedition members – a hardy bunch!
In the evening the Spirit of Enderby cruised from her Waitangi anchorage to the seas adjacent to the Horns, Otuwae Valley, Tuku Valley and Durham Point. This exercise was to allow ornithologists to view the nocturnal species returning to the inland valleys and ridges of the south west coast.
1st April 2011: Chathams, Pitt Island
After cruising around the northern shores of Pitt Island (second largest in the Chathams) the Spirit of Enderby arrived at Flower Pot. Pitt is situated approximately 25 kilometres south of the main Chatham Island and is separated by the notorious Pitt Strait with its distinctive tidal movements and mainly south west oceanic swells.
Ornithologists had a field day sighting at least fourteen procellariiformes as well as several local marine species. The first Zodiac arrived on the beach near the wharf and the historic ‘gaol’ where we met local residents Brent and Diane at their lodge. A range of local arts and crafts were available for purchase as souvenirs of this remote island community in the remote South Pacific: Pitt Island was the first to see the sunrise on the dawning of the new millennium.
The animals on the distant hills were initially mistaken for cattle by some passengers but were in fact unique Pitt Island sheep.
Soon, a party of excited Pitt Island school children arrived with their teacher. Rodney generously offered to take them on board our expedition ship to look around and to meet the Captain and crew. This event will be a memorable one for the pupils of this very isolated community.
2nd April 2011: Chathams, South East Island
With a moderate sea running at our anchorage in the lee of South East Island, five Zodiacs set off containing twelve observers and a handler. Brian, Chris, David, Mike and Rodney provided a commentary on the unique birds of Rangatira/South East Island. This island was settled by whalers and sealers in 1830 and was almost devoid of vegetation by the time cattle and stock was removed in 1960. The island was declared a Nature Reserve and is now a refuge for the Chatham Oyster-Catcher, Shore Plover, Chatham Petrel, Black Robin and Chatham Tomtit. Sooty Shearwater, Broadbilled Prion, White-faced Storm Petrel and Diving Petrel also have large populations.
Observers had excellent opportunities for photography of Shore Plover, Chatham Oystercatcher, Chatham Shag and Red-crowned Parakeet.
Returning to the ship (dry and without mishap) we cruised around the Pyramid, the southern outpost of the Chatham Islands. This was an absolute highlight. It is the only place where the Chatham Albatross breeds: aerial displays of returning and departing individuals were spellbinding and a photographer’s delight. Chris Robertson’s vast knowledge of these albatrosses brought the whole experience alive.
3rd April 2011: At sea, en route to Napier
44’s / Sisters
4th April 2011: At sea
Refer to the Bird Log for details.
Brian, Chris, David and Mike presented lectures after dinner and, to conclude the evening, moving tributes were made to the late Don Merton by Rodney, Brian and Chris. Don’s Wildlife colleagues and Carole from Tauranga also spoke. Don’s special wish was that the Black Robin be returned to Little Mangare Island in the future and the assembled party turned in for the night with much food for thought.
5th April 2011: Napier, Hawke’s Bay
The writer woke at 3am to see a single distant light through the porthole – Cape Kidnappers. By 5am, up on deck the lights of Hawke’s Bay were visible.
A hearty breakfast was enjoyed and passengers returned to their cabins to complete their packing.
Luggage was marked with a green string for the airport and red string for the Information Centre.
There were handshakes and farewells all round before disembarking: many had made new friends as well as having had the opportunity to renew old acquaintances.
This Trip Report can be downloaded as a pdf below, contact us for the Bird Log for this voyage
