Birding Down Under
5th - 27th November 2010
Expedition Log - Voyage #1060
Day 1 - Bluff and the Foveaux Strait
Forty nine passengers gathered for breakfast in Invercargill and checked in their luggage. After a tour of the Southland museum and lunch, we boarded our coach for the port of Bluff and by mid afternoon were finally onboard our home for the next month, the Spirit of Enderby. After completing customs we slipped the moorings and set sail. Our adventure had begun! Skies were clear and it was calm and warm as the pilot guided us out of Bluff harbour. We gathered in the lecture hall for an introduction and safety briefing and afterwards completed the practical part of the life boat drill once at sea. We entered into Foveaux Strait and the waters were remarkably calm, an excellent introduction to life at sea. The first seabirds were spotted – Sooty Shearwaters, Cape Petrels and White-capped Albatross. In these calm conditions it was even possible to see little Blue Penguins and Common Diving Petrels sitting on the water; a few observers even managed to see the localised Fiordland Crested Penguin. Adam gave an introduction to the Snares Islands and the bar opened for a drink. Stephen and Brad served up their first excellent dinner and most people opted for an early night as we steamed south.
Day 2 - The Snares Islands and southbound
Unfortunately the weather deteriorated throughout the night. The notorious Southern Ocean lives up to its reputation. The morning was dark and wet and the Snares were covered in low cloud. Much to our delight the birds were still very active, and after an early breakfast and a Zodiac briefing, we attempted a Zodiac cruise. Nathan, our Expedition Leader, decided it too unsafe and so we cruised the shoreline in the ship instead and luckily had very good viewings of the Snares Crested Penguin at sea. Also seen were hundreds of diving and cape petrels, and many New Zealand Fur Seals.
We decided to cut our losses and head once again for the open ocean toward the Auckland Islands. On route we had excellent bird activity seeing Southern Royal, Salvins and Whitecapped Albatross, Mottled Petrels, Broad Billed Prions, and Black-bellied Storm Petrels. After meeting in the bar to discuss our observations, we were once again treated to an incredible meal by our chefs. I could get used to this life at sea! Then off to bed in anticipation of the Aucklands tomorrow.
Day 3 - Enderby Island, Auckland Islands
In the early hours of the morning we anchored off Enderby Island. Following a spectacular sunrise and calm conditions we sat for breakfast and thought of our great day ahead. Nathan gave us a briefing of the day’s activities, we packed lunch and headed ashore on two Zodiacs. Once ashore we could enjoy the relatively pleasant conditions that were on offer. The day would showcase plenty of sun and rather light winds…in other words..perfect.
Walking across to the western cliffs via nesting Southern Royal and Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, we split into two groups - the smaller group returned to the bay with Tessa and spent much of the day exploring there. The larger group headed off on a fantastic walk around the island. Everybody came back with great experiences and memories. Hooker’s Sea Lion were lying all around in the grasses and along sections of the coast. Seemingly menacing, they were in fact harmless and everyone enjoyed interacting with them. There were birds all around. Of particular interest on Enderby are the healthy populations of Subantarctic Snipe and the flightless Auckland Teal. Almost everyone ended up seeing a snipe at some point scuttling through the tussock or megaherbs and most people also saw the teal along the shoreline or swimming on small ponds around the island. Other birds recorded include: Red-crowned Parakeet, Bellbird, Tui, the omnipresent Auckland Islands Pipit, Auckland Island Tomtit and, of course, the majestic Light Mantled Sooty Albatross - arguably the most beautiful of all the albatross. Along the coast were Antarctic and White-fronted Tern, Kelp and Red-billed Gull, and Brown Skua. The botanizing also proved interesting. The Bulbinella were in bright yellow blooms and there were good examples of Stilbocarpa, Anisotome, and Gentiana. A walk inside the rata forest here was one of the highlights and had a very different character to open coastal regions.
Eventually we all returned to the landing beach and after savouring a last few minutes ashore, hopped back into the Zodiacs and returned to the ship. The wind was still slight which made for a straightforward return to the ship and a very pleasant night at anchor in historic Port Ross.
Day 4 - Auckland Island
In the early hours the captain raised the anchors and we steamed down the east coast of Auckland Island toward Carnley Harbour. This place is rich in history of shipwrecks and strandings. We entered the heads, its steep cliff faces like enormous gates. The weather was calm but the forecast told us this was likely to change…for the worst. We steamed up the harbour in search of suitable anchorage, the weather deteriorating and eventually opted to explore some observation posts used in World War Two. The Zodiacs were lowered and we made our way across the dark water to a gentle rocky shore where we landed and were greeted by a New Zealand Falcon. What a spectacle! Once on shore we scaled the hills through thick rata forest and as we ascended the rain began. Our hike took us past disused huts, but we found that one had been restored. It was fabulous to see this far outpost and reminder of long ago. What a hard living the occupants must have had. Interestingly we saw two New Zealand Sea Lion females high in the rata, escaping the attention of the many males in the area - this is the beginning of their breeding season.
The wind had increased to over 40 knots and the rain now lashed the coast so we descended the muddy slopes and boarded the Zodiacs, seeking the safe warm dry ship we now called home. Once aboard we battened the hatches and stowed everything of value as we were in for a rough ride. Making our way out of Carnley Harbour we headed south west for Macquarie Island.
Day 5 - At Sea
A day for bed. We were in a storm in the notorious Southern Ocean. Wind gusts of over 40 knots were recorded and seas up to 8 metres were slowing the ship to only 3-4 knots. It was slow and rough going and all except the Russian crew - steering us toward Macquarie - stayed in bed. As Nathan told us…it is the safest place to be!
Day 6 - Macquarie Island
The seas had abated and it wasn’t long before we spotted Macquarie Island far in the distance. The first sightings of King and Royal Penguins were soon made, followed by Black-browed and Light-mantled Sooty Albatross. What a sight it was! Dean and Tess (who had spent 12 months on Macquarie Island researching fur seals) gave us an introduction to its flora and fauna. At Buckles Bay we dropped off 4 of our passengers who were going ashore on Macquarie for the summer, and picked up in exchange 3 of the Rangers and the station Doctor.
After a briefing we boarded the Zodiacs for an afternoon ashore at the incomparable Sandy Bay. The beach was flat calm making for a straightforward landing and the weather was pleasant ashore. We were immediately greeted by the hordes of King Penguins that throng the beach here. These large penguins have a lot of character and showed to full form today, investigating us closely and following us around, making a mockery of the 5-meter rule! Most of us eventually wandered over to the breeding colony where there were many older chicks still about. Indeed there were so many King Penguins that it was an overwhelming sensory experience and it took quite a while to settle down and sit with a single bird or group of birds. The smell and the sound of so many birds was just as impressive as the sight. Down the other end of the beach were Royal Penguins which could be seen sitting on eggs. This penguin is endemic to the island and can be seen nowhere else in the world. Skuas and Giant Petrels patrolled the colonies looking for scraps and Elephant Seals of all sizes from the largest of the males to this year’s pups were scattered along the beaches. It was hard to believe that these lazy looking blobs could be as energetic in the water as we had been told. Even a pod of Orca were spotted from the ship. On a more depressing note, 59 rabbits were counted up on the hillsides and the tussock grasses were heavily depleted. We will be the last tourists ever to see this island overrun with rabbits, assuming that the upcoming eradication goes to plan.
Our hungry stomachs eventually vied for attention with the spectacle and by the evening every one was back on board and was delighted to eat a fantastic meal on a flat sea.
Day 7 - Buckles Bay
Conditions were still good in the morning. Although noticeably cooler than previous days, it was bright and the water was flat. We anchored in Buckles Bay and after breakfast were ready to head to shore. On land we split into three groups and had a walk around The Isthmus where the weather soon improved and the sun even poked out at times. The stretch of the legs was welcome too.
The walk provided an insight into the island’s history and allowed us close encounters with its amazing wildlife. Hiding amongst the tussock grass were numerous Southern Elephant Seals; a small colony of Gentoo Penguins was a highlight as were the numerous King Penguins dotted around the shoreline. Our walk was followed by a tour around the research station where coffee and scones awaited us.
Warmed up once more it was time to walk back down to the Zodiacs and head to the ship. En route we passed a small colony of Rockhopper Penguins and admired their climbing skills. We also picked up some Macquarie Island expeditioners who had finished their winter there. They were waved off from the Macquarie Station by a host of men wearing colourful frocks and a fine display of flared trousers. Once back onboard it was time for lunch and to head for the open ocean, toward Campbell Island.
Day 8 - En Route to Campbell Island
The seas today were moderate, with a breeze coming from the South West. This made our open ocean transit more bearable than the one we experienced to Macquarie. Today we learnt much about the places we had visited. Dean gave us a presentation on his and Tessa’s Fur Seal research during their time on Macquarie, and Jeremy, the outgoing Station Leader, gave us a talk on the Macquarie Island Pest Eradication Program. Both were extremely interesting. Tess opened the sea shop and much to our delight there were many quality wares available to act as retail therapy. Later in the day Adam provided an excellent lecture on the albatross species of the world and made it very clear that this expedition was the best on Earth to view the magnificent creatures. On deck there were ample opportunities to see a host of bird species as we swiftly made our way across the Campbell plateau. The birders recorded 7 species of albatross including large numbers of Southern Royal and Campbell Albatross and some interesting petrels including White-headed, Mottled, Soft-plumaged, Blue, and Grey. Another delicious meal served by the chefs and before we knew it the day had come to an end.
Day 9 - Campbell Island
Tess woke us up around 7 am. The sun had just risen behind fog and low cloud and we awoke to the beautiful and serene Perseverance Harbour, a haven of calm in the southern ocean. The sight of land and a level ship came as a relief to us sea-weary travelers.
The day started with breakfast followed by a Zodiac cruise of the Harbour. This cruise visited several coves and was accompanied by numerous birds including good views of the endemic Campbell Island Shag.
After Nathan gave us an introduction to the island, we set off in the Zodiacs for the short ride to the wharf at Beeman Base. Once ashore we had the whole day to spend on the boardwalk that runs up to the Col-Lyall Saddle. After passing through the derelict buildings of a New Zealand Meteorological Station, we carried on up through thick Dracophyllum scrub. Moving higher and accompanied by many curious, confiding Campbell Island Pipits, we moved out of the shrub zone and into the tussock zone. Here was what we had come to see: spectacular megaherbs of many species: Pleurophyllum, Bulbinella, Stilbocarpa, Anisotome. Of even more interest were the numerous behemoth Southern Royal Albatross. These had often been our traveling companions during our days at sea, but here on the tops of Campbell Island we could appreciate their true size and beauty at this, their stronghold breeding colony. The albatross sat amongst the tussock, patient and quiet. It was an incredible sight to see these magnificent creatures so close.
As the afternoon wore on, male birds engaged in some spectacular displays of behavior, the sound and sight of which is impressive.
Almost everybody made it right to the end of the boardwalk at the western cliffs where the views out over Dent Island and the southern ocean were unfortunately obscured by cloud, but even that was breathtaking. As the day wore on, people drifted back to the landing site and the ship, for another great dinner. Then it was off to sea once again - the expedition must push on.
Day 10 - At Sea, En Route to Antipodes
A tremendous morning of slight seas and clear skies. This really is the life! We had all day to learn about and enjoy the vast expanse of the beautiful southern ocean. After breakfast we were treated to a documentary on the pest eradication of Campbell Island, followed by a presentation on the New Zealand Sea Lion research led by our NZ Department of Conservation representative Louise Childers. After lunch Dean taught us all about the whales of the region and immediately after this had finished the whale sightings began! Incredible. Many people saw up to three whales from the ship and with only brief observations it was decided that these were most probably Minke and Fin whales. Hopefully in days to come we would see more. Adam also told us about the 17 penguin species of the world, many of which were all around us on this expedition, and several of which can only be found on the islands we visit. As for birding, it was a splendid day with great conditions for viewing and photographing. The albatross were particularly curious, often coming right over our heads on slow approaches. It was also a fine night for the bar and we all shared our many stories and observations of the day. Brad and Stephen then topped it all off with a delicious meal.
Day 11 - Antipodes
We awoke this morning to a ship that was not rocking. It was calm outside and there was no wind. A low, dense fog surrounded us and early morning birding proved to be fairly quiet. After a hearty breakfast we attended Nathan’s briefing for the Antipodes and there was much excitement as, with a successful sighting of the Erect Crested Penguin, some of us would be able to say they had seen all 17 penguin species. Up on deck we all gazed in awe as the Antipodes emerged from the fog. Five Zodiacs were promptly launched and we climbed aboard ready for a long cruise of the Antipodes coast in near perfect conditions!
It wasn’t long before we spotted the Erect Crested Penguins, but this was just one of the many unique sightings for the day. The Antipodean Parakeet is found only here and many were spotted in the tussock and - to our delight - even in flight; we also saw the more common but also endemic Reischek’s Parakeet. Fur seals littered the rocky shore and both NZ Fur Seals and Subantarctic Fur Seals were sighted. Many were in the brilliant blue water, frolicking lazily around our boats. The cliff faces were dramatic indeed, with beautiful basalt columns and lava flows easily visible on every shore. Vegetation was astounding and no bare patch of dirt could be seen anywhere. Antipodean Albatross soared across the skies with their smaller cousins, the Light-mantled Sooty Albatross. Even a colony of Black-browed Mollymawks was spotted high on a cliff face. Rockhopper Penguins also made an appearance.
It truly was a spectacular Zodiac cruise. We re-boarded the Spirit of Enderby, lifted the anchors and started our cruise for the Bounty Islands. Each day simply is better than the last!
Day 12 - Bounty Islands
Wow! That is the one word that truly sums up this magnificent series of rocks in the middle of nowhere. Only 80m at their highest point, they are jam-packed with wildlife, and so is the surrounding water which teems with all kinds of marine life. The day started early. Out on deck we could see a fog hovering over the islands, masking their true brilliance. A quick breakfast and we were in the Zodiacs where the seas were once again calm which made for excellent boating. Approaching these rocky outcrops it was plain to see that not a square metre of real estate was spare. NZ Fur Seals lived closest to the water’s edge and hundreds of females with pups, males and juveniles were about. Above them in altitude were Erect Crested Penguins in their thousands. They are entertaining little penguins and there was no shortage of humorous moments as they went about their very busy lives. Still above them were over 30,000 breeding pairs of Salvin’s Albatross. These are majestic animals at sea, but perched like this in the cliffs they were crowded in together along with the penguins and seals, endemic Bounty Shags and Fulmar Prions. Amazingly we also saw a Leopard Seal who appeared very fat, probably because it had been gorging itself on penguins. All too soon we had to go back to the ship, but that was fine because Adam had prepared buckets of chum to feed the albatross. It was as if all 30,000 pairs had come to feed, because the sky and water were covered with Salvin’s Albatross. This was a spectacular sight, truly amazing! The ship then set north for Pyramid Rock in the Chatham Island group. En route we had a brief sighting of a Sei Whale and calf, and also a spout far in the distance. The birding was sensational with no fewer than 10 species of albatross recorded on the day, along with numerous other species of tubenose. This was an exceptional day, and was perfectly completed with a scrumptious meal by our chefs.
Day 13 - En Route to the Chatham Islands
Someone must have pleased the Sea Gods because the weather was once again perfect! Amama, the ship’s doctor said it was because she was wearing her lucky ‘good weather earrings’. Perhaps we might have to convince her to leave them here with us on the ship. The day started very early indeed with Adam excited about the possibility of sighting the rare Magenta Petrel (or Breakfast Petrel as he called it) as well as the Chatham Island Petrel, another rare species. Most of us were on deck by 7am looking towards the skies. Neither of these species were sighted, but many others were. These included several new species for the trip: Buller’s and Chatham Island Albatross, Cook’s and Grey-faced Petrel and White-faced Storm-petrel. At one stage we tried laying some fish oil in the water. It did not attract the mythical petrels, but it was impressive to see dozens of storm-petrels and white-chinned petrels appearing out of nowhere to feed on the slick. As we approached the Chatham rise, whale blows were also sighted, though we couldn’t confirm what species they came from. But it didn’t matter because just seeing them was great. Dean thought he saw a Sun Fish and Adam saw a small Basking Shark. These were indeed rich waters. Before long the Chatham Islands loomed over the horizon, with Pyramid Rock dead ahead. This structure is actually an ancient volcanic plug, but these days is home to the world’s only breeding population of Chatham Island Albatross – 4,500 pairs in all. After a circumnavigation of this geological structure we anchored off South East, an essential bird refuge. Into the Zodiacs and cruising the shores it wasn’t long before we spotted the Pitt Shag, the Shore Plover, hundreds of nesting White-fronted Terns, and to our surprise and delight the Little or Blue Penguin. Chatham Island Oystercatcher proved much harder to track down, although we did eventually find a pair. New Zealand Fur Seals were everywhere with pups and there was yet another Subantarctic Fur Seal. It was a superb afternoon with a beautiful sunset and a relaxing evening.
Day 14 - Chatham Islands
Today was a day of exploration for many of us who had never been to the Chatham group before. Because we were ahead of schedule, and because the weather was once again great, Nathan decided we should take this opportunity to circumnavigate the islands. First up was Star Keys. It was here that one of our only Chatham Island Shags flew in to investigate the ship. Then off the Forty Fours - which coincidentally lie on the 44 Latitude line – we found a major breeding colony for Northern Royal and Buller’s Albatross. Next, we saw the Sisters in the North where the largest breeding colony of the Northern Royal Albatross is situated. Adam once again got his hands dirty with the chum so we could all have exceptional close encounters with these giants of the skies. Very few people ever come to these islands so this made it all the more special. We all felt very privileged, and with memory cards once again full of incredible images, we set sail for Waitangi to anchor for the night in preparation for the day to come. As expected, the boys in the galley served up an exquisite meal with fine desserts and with our bellies full we lay to rest. Tomorrow we would be exploring the great Chatham Island and all its wonders by foot.
Day 15 - Chatham Island
We awoke this morning to the calm and pleasant harbour of Waitangi. On the shore many houses and fishing boats could be seen; this was a working township. Chatham Island accommodates around 480 permanent residents with the population declining annually. We enjoyed an early and hearty breakfast, and then it was into the Zodiacs for our final tour of the expedition. We disembarked on the wharf and awaited our transport to the Awototora Reserve. This reserve and others in the area have been covenanted by Bruce and Liz Tuanui and, operating under the Taiko Trust, they are bringing back the native vegetation and birdlife to the Chatham Islands, including the Magenta Petrel. The transport was the school bus and once aboard we headed off to this private sanctuary of endemic birdlife. We saw much cleared land on the way; it is no surprise that some species are in decline as their habitat is simply disappearing.
At the bush reserve we met our guides who detailed how over the past 15 years they have managed to help return this small valley to its former self, complete with bird life. It did not sound like an easy task. Most of us contributed to their cause by purchasing their beautiful merchandise. Every little bit helps.
Then it was off on our walk of the reserve. We split into two groups - some taking the long but brisk walk to the coast and back, while others ambled along more slowly in the hope of spying some of the reintroduced species. The landscape was stunning: a small creek flowed through the valley and the sound of birds could be heard all around. Indeed, this project seemed to be succeeding. The plant life was lush, the track was muddy and we had to cross small stretches of the creek - some of us found it harder than others, but we were all very happy with our experience. Most of the birders tracked down their quarry – the endemic Chatham Island Pigeon and the Chatham Island Gerygone. It was also great to see several Chatham Island Fantail and Tui, the latter another success story of the Taiko trust!
Then it was back on the bus to visit the bustling metropolis of Waitangi Bay. It was a Wednesday so the Post Office was closed, but the pub wasn’t so we all seemed to gravitate there and enjoyed a cold beverage or two and a chat with some of the more colourful locals. In our final ride in the Zodiacs we returned to the Spirit Of Enderby, washed our boots and returned our Life Jackets. The captain raised the anchor and steered for Dunedin, two days sailing from here. But of course the day was not complete without another fine meal and a spectacular sunset!
Day 16 – En Route to Dunedin
We awoke once again to a calm sea and sunny skies. Save the one storm we had on the way to Macquarie Island, the weather has been exceptional and we all felt very lucky that the southern ocean has been so kind to us. After breakfast many of us pottered around the ship out on deck looking for more seabirds, reading books or just enjoying the conditions. Others sat in the library organising the thousands of images they had taken during our expedition. Adam provided some much-needed identification hints for the Petrels of the Southern Ocean in the lecture theatre. It was a great insight into the many and varied life habits of the petrels which seem to occupy a wide range of niches in this region. On deck, two separate sightings of Gray’s Beaked Whales were recorded, a type of whale little-known and quite different to any other. These observations were quite special. After lunch, Dean showed us two short documentaries he made during his time on Macquarie Island, giving us an insider’s view of this incredible place. Later in the day Nathan answered many questions regarding our mighty ship, the Spirit of Enderby, and how she operates throughout the world. In the evening the bar was full as we all met to tell stories of the trip and share our experiences. Then it was off to dinner.
Day 17 - En Route to Dunedin
The last full day of the trip had arrived. A gentle breeze and light swell greeted us as we sailed closer to Dunedin. It was an extremely pleasurable day to be out on deck and a relaxing day too, as we all wound down the trip.
Before lunch Nathan gave a talk about Russia and showed some mouth-watering photos from the region. Judging by the reactions of people in the lecture hall, there is a good chance we will see some of you there in the near future!
In the afternoon we had an expedition recap. To summarise the innumerable highlights of the past 19 days would be an impossible task, but the photo slideshow certainly brought back many memories.
Birding was quite good in the calm conditions, although birds struggled to fly with the lack of wind, particularly in the afternoon when the sea became oily calm. We did record several new species for the trip – Hutton’s and Buller’s Shearwater and a very surprising observation of Gould’s Petrel. But the day will always be remembered for its whales: the morning showcased a cow and calf Fin Whale, the world’s second-largest animal, and this female was a particularly large individual. In the afternoon it was another cow and calf pair - this time Sei Whale. We also recorded a Minke Whale cruising along, but it was the Beaked Whales that stole the show. These mysterious squid-feeders of the deep ocean are rarely seen, but on this day we saw over 10 groups. Many of the observations were very good and hundreds of photos were taken. At one point there were 3 animals clear out of the water at the same time. Beaked Whales are notoriously hard to identify, even with good photos, but the vast majority of the 50 or so animals seen today were Gray’s Beaked Whale.
After gathering for a delicious farewell dinner it was time to finish packing and swap photos and email addresses.
Day 18 - Dunedin
We picked up the pilot early and sailed the final two miles into Dunedin harbour to come alongside in perfect conditions. After one final breakfast and the customs formalities it was time to board the bus. We had traveled 2630 nautical miles together and after 19 days it was time to return to our normal lives. Everyone went their separate ways and everyone will carry their own memories with them: King Penguins crowding around us at Sandy Bay; waves crashing over the bow in the southern ocean; the joy of seeing Southern Royal Albatross at Cambell; Minke whales breaching; all those Gray’s Beaked Whales; stepping back in time in the observers huts on Auckland Island; the Antipodes and Bountys; chumming and being chased by Hooker’s Sea Lion on Enderby Island. These are but a few of the memories that will live on with us as we move forward. This has been an epic journey and one that will never be forgotten. The sights, sounds and smells of the southern ocean - the Subantarctic Islands are experienced by few. You are among those lucky few. Remember that you now have a duty to advocate for the protection and conservation of these remarkable places.
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